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Date  Due 


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MONEY  IN  THE  GARDEN. 


A  VEGETABLE  MANUAL, 


PEEPARED    WITH    A    VIEW    TO 


ECONOMY   AND   PROFIT, 


BY   P.    T.   QUINN, 

PRACTICAL    HORTICULTURIST. 
AUTHOR    OF    "PEvR    CUr.TI"  E    FOK    PROFIT.  " 


NEW    YORK: 

ORANGE    JUDD    COMPANY, 

1906 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  tne  year  1871,  Dy 

P .     T .     Q  U  I  N  N , 

in  the  Office   of  thj   Libiarian  of  Congress,  at   "Washington. 


A  \ 


ix^\ 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGH 

Monet  in  the  Garden 13 

Location  and  Selection  of  Soil 14 

Draining 14 

Preparing  the  Ground 16 

Manures 18 

Capital 20 


CHAPTER  II. 

Hot-33eds 22 

Straw  Mats 26 

Cold  Frames 28 


CHAPTER  III. 

Artichoke , 32 

Asparagus 34 

Sowing  the  Seed 37 

Preparing  the  Ground 38 

Planting 39 

Varieties. 44 

Cutting  and  Bunching ^ 45 

Profits 48 

Insects 49 


fS-05 


/*->>>Oi   *    *^ 


VI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

PAGE 

Beans 52 

China 53 

White  Kidney 53 

Pole-Beans 65 

Beets 59 

Borecole 64 

Broccoli 68 

CHAPTER  V. 

Cabbages 72 

Carrots 9*7 

Cardoon 108 

Cauliflower 109 

Celery Ill 

Celeriac 125 

Com  Salad,  or  Fetticus 127 

Cress,  or  Peppergrass 127 

Water-Cres3 128 

Chives,  or  Gives 129 

Chervil 130 

Chervil,  Turnip-rooted 131 

Corn 131 

Cudtffhbers 135 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Egg  Plants 142 

Endive 148 

Garlic 150 

Horse-Radish 151 

Kohl-Rabi 155 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Lettuce 159 

Leek 163 

Martynia 166 


CONTENTS.  VU 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

PAGE 

Melons 167 

Melon,  Water 170 

Mustard 172 

Mushrooms 172 

Nasturtium,  or  Indian  Cress 177 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Onions 1 79 

Okra,  or  Gumbo 187 


CHAPTER  X. 

Parsley '. 189 

Parsnip 192 

Peas 194 

Peppers 198 

Potatoes 200 

Jerusalem  Artichoke 214 

Pumpkins 215 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Radishes 217 

Rhubarb , 221 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Salsify,  or  Yegetablf:  Oyster 224 

Seorzonera 225 

Sea  Kale 221 

Spinach 226 

New  Zealand  Spinach 229 

Shallots 229 

S<>rrel „ 230 

Squash  ..., 230 

Sweet  Potatoes ,  . , 233 


Viil  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEK  XIII. 

PAGE 

Tomatoes 237 

Turnips 244 

Herbs 252 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

Forcing-houses  for  Vegetables 254 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A  List  of  Seeds  for  the  Kitchen-Garden 263 

List  of  Plants 264 

Quantity  of  Seed  to  an  Acre 267 

Vitality  of  Garden-Seed 267 

Distance  Table 268 


PREFACE. 


NowA-DAYS  a  non-literary  practical  man, 
if  tolerably  successful  in  any  specially,  must 
do  one  of  two  things.  He  either  must  keep 
his  own  counsel  and  reticently  go  on,  making 
what  profit  he  may,  or  he  must  be  prepared 
daily  to  answer  a  thousand-and-one  questions 
by  mouth,  and  by  letter,  conscious  that  his 
"  pursley  "  is  getting  ahead  of  him,  while  he 
casts  and  recasts  multitudinous  counsels  fi'om 
his  one  little  mould  of  experience. 

There  is  a  way  of  evading  these  alterna- 
tives, though  it  may  call  for  a  radical  change 
in  the  nature  of  the  aforesaid  practical  man. 
He  can  go  into  a  book,  there  say  whatever  he 
has  to  say,  and,  going  out  again  (backward  at 
the  preface),  explain  humbly  :  friends,  you 
will  find  it  all  in  this  volume.  I've  been  as 
matter-of-fact  and  explicit  as  possible,  avoid- 


X  PREFACE. 

ing  speculation,  and  putting  down,  briefly, 
tilings  I  have  learned  from  daily  toil  and  the 
wisdom  of  other  men. 

This  is  why  these  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
eight  pages  of  simple  and  conscientious  direc- 
tions are  given  to  all  who,  by  saving  or 
gaining,  hope  to  find  "  Money  in  the  Gaeden." 

P,  T.  Ci. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  March  1,  18^1. 


MONEY  IN   THE   GARDEN 


CHAPTER   I. 

In  this  work  the  author  aims  to  give,  in  a  plain^ 
practical  style,  instructions  on  three  distinct,  al- 
though closely  connected,  branches  of  gardening — 
the  kitchen-garden,  market-garden,  and  field  culture 
of  root-crops^the  only  credentials  for  the  fitness  of 
his  undertaking  being  a  successful  practical  experi- 
ence for  a  term  of  years. 

Modern  gardening  simply  is  another  term  for 
improved  methods  of  farming,  and  success  either  in 
the  kitchen  or  market-garden,  depends  upon  carrying 
out  these  methods. 

At  present,  no  thinking  cultiyatx^r  can  overlook 
the  need  of  a  more  general  use  of  the  best  labor- 
saving  implements.  Land  is  plenty.  Manure,  in 
most  sections,  can  be  obtained  at  home,  or  bought 
at  reasonable  rates.  The  last  ten  yeai's  have  l)een 
exceptional  in  the  high  ]:)rices  of  farm  and  garden 
produce,  Tlie  only  drawback:  to  a  relative  profit 
has  been  the  high  price  of  farm-labor. 

This  can  only  be  overcome  by  a  more  extended 
use  of  improved  tools  in  preparing  the  ground, 
2 

M    r   C/vr.1.  


14  LOCATION   AND   SELECTION   OF    SOIL. 

planting  the  seed,  cultivating  and  harvesting  the 
ei-ops.  Snch  implements  as  have  been  nsed,  and 
found  of  real  value,  are  described  or  referred  to 
under  their  proper  headings. 

LOCATION    AND    SELECTION    OF    SOIL. 

These  are  important  points,  both  for  the  kitchen 
and  market-garden  ;  in  regard  to  the  latter,  prox- 
imity to  the  market  is  amono-  the  first  considerations. 
As  a  large  quantity  of  horse-manure  must  be  carted 
every  year  from  the  city  or  town,  and  all  kinds  of 
garden-stuff  must  be  delivered  to  the  commission- 
men  or  hucksters,  whicli  is  most  economically  done 
with  tlie  producer's  own  team,  it  follows  that  a  favor- 
able location  witliin  a  few  miles  of  a  good  market 
increases  the  chances  of  success. 

Garden  vegetal )les,  as  a  rule,  will  thrive  best, 
other  things  being  ecpial,  on  a  deep,  sandy  loam,  with 
an  open  sub-soil.  Almost  any  character  of  soil,  with 
the  exception  of  pure  clay,  can  be  brought  up  to  a 
high  state  of  fertility  l)y  adopting  the  proper  meth- 
ods ;  but,  as  in  gardening,  "  the  early  bird  catches 
the  worm,"  and  a  week's  difPerence  in  the  time  of 
ripening  often  makes  a  difference  of  from  one  to 
two  hundred  dollars  in  the  gross  receipts  from  an 
acre,  the  sandy  loam  will  have  the  ad^'antage  ovei*  a 
heavy  clay  soil,  even  if  they  are  equal  in  other  re- 
spects. 

Draining. — The  gardci^  soil  should  be  deep,  thor- 
oughly pulverized,  and  free  from  stagnant  water. 
Many  soils  are  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  vege- 
tables, and   require   no   draining.     But   where    the 


BEAlNtlSra 


15 


for  draining  soils  of  this 


ground  is  kept  cold  late  in  the  Spring,  fi*om  the 
effects  of  stagnant  water  or  surface  springs,  it  is 
useless  to  attempt  the  culti\'ation  of  such  land,  witli 
a  view  to  j>^"ofit,  until  it  is  thoroughly  drained.  AVe 
have  never  known  of  an  instance,  when  a  judicious 
outhiy  having  heeu  made 
character,  but  the  result,  in  a 
few  years,  has  fully  jii stilled 
the  expenditure  by  vastly  in- 
creased productiveness,  with 
the  same  amount  of  labor  and 
manure  that,  before  the  land 
was  drained,  would  barely 
pay  expenses. 

The  cost  of  draining  an 
acre  of  ground  will  depend 
to  some  extent  on  the  price 
of  labor,  the  tenacity  of  the 
soil,  and  the  price  of  the  tiles 
or  other  material  that  will  an- 
swer the  same  ])urp()se. 

In  case  the  soil  is  com- 
pact, the  drains  should  be 
twenty  feet  apart  and  three 
feet  deep  ;  with  a  more  por- 
ous sub-soil,  thirty   feet  be- 


•  n    ,  1  1  DRAIN  TILES. 

tweeii  Avili  be  close  enougli. 

Stones  are  frecpiently  used  for  this  purpose,  but,  even 
when  in  abundance  on  the  land,  they  will  l)e  found 
the  most  expensive  and  least  effectual.  Kound  pipes, 
or  sole  tiles  with  collars,  when  properly  laid,  best  an- 
swer the  purpose.      Kext  to  these,  hemlock  boards 


16 


1»EEPAKING   THE   GROUND. 


*^  ripped  "  in  the  centre,  lengthwise,  and  then  nailed 
together  in  the  form  of  the  letter  ^ ,  will,  when  laid 
on  a  iirni  bottom,  witli  enongh  fall,  outlast  a  genera- 
tion. The  expense  of  tiles  or  boards  is  about  the 
same — one  and  three-quarter  cents  a  foot.  To  avoid 
making  a  blunder  in  so  hnportaiit  a  matter,  it  is 
always  best  to  employ  an  engineer  to  run  the  lines 
and  mark  the  levels.  Twenty -five  dollai-s  so  spent 
will  neyer  be  regretted.  The  expense,  counting 
eyerj'thing,  usually  amounts  to  fifty  or  sixty  dollai-s 
an  acre.  AYlien  the  sub-soil  plough  is  used  to  loosen 
the  soil  before  digging  the  drains,  the  cost  may  be 
very  materially  lessened. 

PREPARiNf^  TUE  GRorxi). — A  soil  having  an  aver- 
age de])th  of  four  or  five  inches  cannot  be  bj'ought 
up  to  the  standard  of  excellence  in  less  than  three 


HOLUKOOK's    swivel    I'LOLGII. 


yeai*s.  The  first  step  to  l)e  taken  is  to  deepen  it ; 
this  is  ])artly  done  by  siirface-plougliing  eight  or  ten 
inches  deep,  in  tlie  Fall,  and  following,  in  the  bot- 


PREPAELNG    THE    GROUND. 


17 


torn  of  the  furrow,  with  a  hfting  sub-soil  plotigh. 
The  ground  should  be  ploughed  in  ridges  ten  or 
twelve  feet  wide,  with  deep,  open  furrows.  This 
treatment  will  leave  the  soil  in  the  l»est  condition  to 
be  acted  up<-)n  by  the  fiv  .st.  In  the  kitchen-garden 
the  deepening  will  have  to  be  dtaie  with  the  spade 
and  dio:crino:-fc>rk. 

In  the  Spring,  the  ground  is  harrowed  down,  a 
hea\y  di*essing  of  well-rotted  manure  spi-ead  broad- 
cast, and  ploughed  under.  The  more  manure  ap- 
plied, the  better  will  be  the  crop  the  first  jear. 


MAPES'   LrFTDsG   SUB-SOIL   PLOUGH. 

A  crop  of  Potatoes  planted  on  this  soil  the  first 
season,  ^vill  be  found  one  of  the  best.  The  cultiva- 
tor and  hand-hoes  should  be  kept  active  during  the 
eai-ly  stages  of  growth,  so  as  to  subdue  the  surface- 
soil. 

In  the  Fall,  when  the  Potatoes  have  been  dug, 
another  application  of  manure,  forty  <.r  fifty  loa«is 


18 


MANURES. 


to  the  acre,  the  ground  is  again  ploughed,  and  then 
Spinach  may  be  put  in,  giving  in  addition  a  dressing 
of  three  or  four  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre  of  finely- 


HAKROW. 


ground  bone  or  superphosphate  of  hme.  This  brings 
lis  to  the  important  subject  of 

Manukes. — No  matter  how  favorable  the  loca- 
tion, nor  what  the  character  of  the  soil  may  be,  he 
tills  to  great  disadvantage  who  fails  to  make  a  lib- 
eral annual  application  of  manures.  The  question 
for  the  gardener  is,  IIow  much  manure  can  I  use 
with  increased  profit  ?  and,  if  he  is  alive  to  his  own 
interest,  he  will  soon  discover  that  the  quantity  that 
can  be  so  applied  to  an  acre  is  large. 

Of  the  bulky  manures,  that  from  stables  where 


MANURES.  19 

the  horses  are  fed  on  grain  and  hay  is  of  most  vahie. 
This  qnalitj  of  manure,  ahnost  free  from  straw,  we 
buy  at  Newark,  N.  J.,  at  an  average  of  one  dollar 
and  thirty -eight  cents  for  a  two-horse  load.  This  is 
hauled  and  throAvn  in  heaps,  sometimes  composted 
with  tanner's  refuse  and  woods  earth,  turning  it  over 
two  or  three  times  before  applying  it. 

Market-gardeners  Avill  use  from  fifty  to  seventy 
loads  of  this  manure  to  an  acre,  besides  a  top-dress- 
ing of  five  or  six  hundred  pounds  of  a  special  fer- 
tilizer. 

For  the  past  four  years  we  have  contracted  for 
all  the  refuse  from  a  large  soap  factory,  and  have 
found  this  waste  lime,  potash,  and  fatty  matter  a 
valuable  top-di-essing,  applying  it  at  the  rate  of  three 
or  four  tons  to  the  acre.  We  have  also  used  a  com- 
post made  by  deomposing  muck  witli  the  salt  and 
lime  mixture,^  then  adding  to  this  compound  an 
equal  bulk  of  yard-mamire.  At  the  end  of  six 
months  the  whole  mass  is  homogeneous,  and,  when 
turned  under  for  garden-crops,  fully  erpial,  load  for 
load,  to  pure  horse-manure. 

Gardeners  in  our  section  use  "  slaughter-house " 
manure  with  profitable  results.  This  is  usually  com- 
posted with  other  manures,  and  left  in  a  pile  for  sev- 
eral months  before  using  it.  It  costs  about  one  dol- 
lar and  fifty  cents  a  tAvo-horse  load,  and  in  quality  is 
about  the  same  as  a  load  of  horse-mamire. 

*  The  salt  and  lime  mixture  is  made  by  dissolving  one  bushel  of 
salt  in  water,  and  then  slacking  three  bushels  of  lime  with  the  salt 
water.  This  mixture  should  be  turned  over  two  or  three  times  under 
a  shed  ;  one  bushel  of  it  will  be  enough  for  a  cord  of  muck. 


20  CAPITAL. 

We  have  used  as  much  as  seventy-five  tons  of 
dried  blood,  or  sugar-house  scum,  in  a  single  season  ; 
when  this  is  broken  finely,  and  composted  with  horse- 
manure  and  woods  earth,  it  is  a  powerful  fertilizer 
for  all  kinds  of  crops. 

Wood-ashes  are  always  highly  esteemed,  but  of 
late  years  the  supply  has  been  very  limited.  Un- 
leac^hed  wood-ashes  are  worth  from  forty  to  fifty 
cents  per  bushel ;  for  fertilizing  purposes,  using  ten 
to  twenty  bushels  to  an  acre.  A  top-dressing  of  lime 
every  third  year,  thirty  or  forty  bushels  to  the  acre, 
spread  broadcast,  and  harrowed  in  just  before  plant- 
ing, pays  handsomely. 

Every  available  substance  that  will  make  manure 
should  find  its  way  to  the  compost  heap  or  hog-pen, 
to  be  worked  over,  and  thus  add  to  the  capital  for 
the  garden  ;  on  this  will  greatly  depend  the  success. 

Of  the  concentrated  fertilizers  now  in  general 
use,  both  for  the  kitchen  and  market-gardens,  are 
finely-ground  bone,  Peruvian  guano,  superphosphate 
of  lime,  and  last,  but  not  least  in  value,  fish  guano. 
The  required  quantity  of  these  will  depend  on  the 
condition  of  the  soil.  Besides  the  main  supply  of 
yard-manure,  we  use  annually  from  three  hundred 
to  one  thousand  pounds  to  an  acre,  and  find  that 
such  an  application  of  a  pure  article  pays  well. 

Capital. — With  the  farmer,  the  laying  out  of  a 
kitchen-garden  should  be  of  the  first  consideration. 
In  spare  moments  a  fence  can  be  put  around  the 
garden,  which  should  be  located  convenient  to  the 
dwelling.  With  a  full  supply  of  the  leading  kinds 
of  vegetables,  farmers  could  board  their  help  for 


CAPITAL.  21 

about  one-half  of  what  it  costs  when  only  meat, 
bread,  and  Potatoes  form  the  principal  food.  With 
the  farm-work  properly  arranged,  the  kitchen-garden 
can  be  kept  in  good  order  without  smy  extra  cost  for 
labor. 

For  the  market-gardener,  capital  is  very  import- 
ant when  the  proprietor  knows  how  to  use  it — an  art 
learned  only  by  experience. 

It  does  not  make  much  difference  how  intelli- 
gent a  man  may  be  in  other  respects,  nor  Ikjw  much 
capital  he  has  to  start  with  ;  if  he  has  had  no  expe- 
rience in  the  business,  he  lacks  the  main  element  of 
success. 

AYe  know  personally  a  large  number  of  well-to- 
do  market-gardeners— men  now  worth  from  ten  to 
forty  thousand  dollars  each — none  of  whom  had 
five  hundred  dollars  to  begin  with.  Industrious, 
hard-working  men,  these,  who  at  first  turned  every 
available  dollar  into  manure  and  reliable  seeds.  In 
fact,  lie  who  would  be  successful  in  market-garden- 
ing must  take  the  lead  in  all  kinds  of  weather  and 
all  kinds  of  worlv — late  and  early,  rain  or  shine.  To 
stalwart  young  men,  even  with  a  limited  capital, 
willing  to  begin  in  a  small  way  and  work  nidus- 
triously,  the  chances  of  making  ''  money  in  the  gar- 
den "  are  as  promising  as  ever  they  were.  '  What- 
ever is  done,  let  it  be  well  done." 

2* 


CHAPTER  II. 

HOT-BEDS. 

Location. — Select  a  southeastern  exposure,  pro- 
tected from  the  north  wind  by  a  board-fence,  hedge, 
or  the  side  of  a  building.  Then  excavate  the  ground 
eighteen  inches  deep,  eight  feet  wide,  and  as  long  as 
required,  allowii^  three  feet  for  each  sash. 

Mahhuj  the  Bed. — Gardeners  in  the  latitude  of 
New  York  start  their  hot-l:>eds  from  the  1st  to  the 
15th  of  February.  When  started  early,  more  ma- 
nure is  used,  so  that  enough  bottom-heat  may  be  sup- 
plied to  keep  the  young  plants  growing  until  mild 
weather  sets  in.  Commence  by  putting  a  layer  of 
cold  horse-manure,  six  or  eight  inches  in  thickness, 
on  the  excavated  surface.  Begin  at  one  end  of  the 
intended  bed,  and  be  careful  that  this  first  layer,  as 
well  as  all  succeeding  ones,  is  spread  evenly.  Then 
add  a  second  layer  of  hot  manure,  of  about  the  same 
thickness  as  the  first.  The  mass  may  now  be  trod- 
den down  by  walking  on  top  of  it,  keeping  the 
feet  close  together.  Another  layer  of  hot  manure 
may  then  be  put  on,  the  frames  placed  in  position, 
and  pressed  down  firmly.  Add  another  layer  of  fine 
maimre,  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  thickness,  inside  of 
the  frames,  as  a  finish,  and  })ut  on  the  sashes. 

The  beds  being  eight  feet  w^ide,  and  the  frames 


HOT-BEDS.  23 


only  six,  tliere  will  be  a  margin  of  twelve  to  sixteen 
inches  outside,  which  should  be  banked  up  with  ma- 
nure as  high  as  ihe  top  of  tlie  frame. 

Frames  may  be  made  of  (Mammon  boards  nailed 
together,  with  a  post  in  each  corner  for  a  support. 
They  should  be  five  feet  ten  inclies  wide  fi-om  front 
to  rear,  and  as  long  as  desired— the  front  board 
twelve  inches  high,  and  the  rear  eighteen  to  twenty- 
four.  The  frames,  when  made,  should  stand  level 
on  the  bottom,  forming  an  inclined  plane  on  top  ;  so 
that,  when  the  sashes  are  on,  there  will  be  enouo-h 
fall  from  rear  to  front  to  cast  the  water  readily. 

Cross-ties  six  feet  long,  made  of  narrow  strips  of 
boards,  one  by  three  inches,  should  be  mortised  into 
the  front  and  rear  boards  of  the  frames  every  three 
feet.  These  will  support  the  sashes  and  strengthen 
the  frames. 

Sashes  can  ])e  bought  from  any  sash  manufac- 
turer. They  should  be  well  constructed  of  seasoned 
wood ;  if  not,  the  heat  of  the  beds  will  warp  the 
wood,  displace  and  break  the  glass.  The  narrow 
lights  of  glass,  4  x  6,  are  preferable.  These  should 
be  cut  curved  on  the  lower  edge,  so  that  the  water 
will  run  oif  in  the  middle  of  the  light  in  single  drops, 
and  not  form  lenses,  which  would  likely  scorch  the 
plants. 

Putting  on  Earth  and  Sowing  Seed.— Whew  the 
beds  are  finished,  as  stated  before,  the  sashes  are  put 
on  at  once  and  covered  with  straw  mats.  In  case 
the  weather  is  pleasant,  the  mats  may  be  taken  ofp 
for  three  or  four  hours  the  next  day.  Two  days 
from  the  time  of  making,  under  ordinary  circum- 


24  HOT- BEDS. 

stances,  the  earth  may  be  put  on.  This  should  not 
be  done,  however,  until  the  niannre  is  well  heated 
inside  the  frames.  Six  or  eight  inches  of  leaf -mold, 
or  good  garden-soil  free  from  stones,  will  answer. 

Two  or  three  days  from  the  time  of  putting  in 
the  earth  the  seed  may  be  sown.  Select  a  pleasant 
day,  and  remoAe  all  the  sashes  and  mats.  Unless 
the  soil  is  very  rich,  a  handful  of  bone-flour  or  super- 
phosphate should  1  )e  sprinkled  over  each  light.  Then 
turn  the  earth  (:>ver  with  a  digging-fork,  and  rake  the 
surface  level  ;  for,  if  left  slanting,  tlie  frequent 
watering  will  wash  the  seed  from  the  upper  or  rear 
part  of  the  bed. 

Make  shallow  drills  from  rear  to  front  two  inches 
apart  and  about  three-rpiarters  of  an  inch  deep  ;  sow 
the  seed  in  these  drills,  and  cover  lightly  by  sifting 
earth  over  the  bed  until  the  surface  is  again  level. 
Each  kind  of  seed  should  be  sown  separately,  and 
la])eled  at  the  time  of  sowing.  Replace  the  sashes, 
and,  toward  night,  put  on  the  mats.  Except  in  very 
cold  weather,  the  mats  should  be  taken  off  daily 
about  9  or  10  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

The  secret  in  growling  strong,  stocky  plants  is, 
when  they  are  w^ell  up,  to  give  an  abundance  of  air 
at  the  riffht  time.  Eor  instance,  if  the  sashes  are 
opened  soon  after  removing  the  mats,  the  chances 
are  that  the  young  plants  will  l)e  injured  by  what 
gardeners  call  "  damping  oftV  While  the  plants  are 
young,  no  air  should  be  admitted  into  the  beds  for 
at  least  one  hour  after  the  mats  have  been  removed. 
Each  succeeding  mild  day  more  air  may  be  given  to 
the  plants,  to  keep  them  from  growing  spindling. 


HOT-BEDS. 


25 


Egg-plants  and  Peppers  reqnire  more  heat  and 
less  air  than  Cal^hages,  Canliflowers,  Tomatoes,  or 
Lettuce. 

AVlien  Tomato  plants  are  two  inches  high,  they 
should  be  pricked  out  into  another  frame.  Those 
who  make  a  business  of  growing  Tomatoes  in  a  large 
way,  for  market,  transplant  them  twice  l^efore  set- 
ting them  out  in  the  field.  Each  time  that  they  are 
moved  from  one  bed  to  another,  more  room  is  given 
in  order  to  get  short,  stocky  plants. 

Egg-plants  will  do  better,  producing  more  fruit, 
and  earlier,  if  transplanted  or  put  into  "  thumb-pots," 
and  placed  in  beds  made  like  a  hot-bed,  only  using 
less  manure. 

The  beds  should  be  watered  with  tepid  water 
when  the  surface  becomes  dry.  In  April  the  plants 
will  require  water  every  day. 


WATERING   POT. 


There  are  few  neighborh<jods  where  enough  plants 
cannot  be  sold  to  more  than  pay  the  expenses  of  mak- 
ing and  caring  for  the  bed.     When  the  young  plants 


AE.COL.LEQe 


26  STRAW   MATS. 

are  taken  from  the  seed-bed,  Ciicunibers  and  Melons 
can  be  started  under  the  glass,  and  transplanted  to 
the  open  air  in  May.  These  plants  will  produce 
fruit  two  weeks  before  seed  planted  in  the  open 
ground. 

STRAAV    MATS. 

Every  gardener  who  grows  early  vegetables  must 
have  a  supply  of  straw  mats  to  cover  the  sashes,  when 
forcing  vegetables  or  plants  by  bottom-heat.  These 
mats  are  made  at  odd  times  during  the  Winter,  when 
nothing  more  important  is  on  hand.  At  our  farm 
we  have  a  wooden  frame,  made  of  four  boards  nailed 
together.  This  frame  is  eight  feet  long  and  live  feet 
wide.  In  the  centre  of  the  top  board  there  are  live 
nails  fastened  about  ten  inches  apart,  and  live  more 
on  the  bottom  board,  to  correspond  with  the  upper 
row^  of  nails  or  pegs.  Before  commencing  with  the 
straw,  five  pieces  of  marling  or  tarred  twine  are  cut 
about  twenty-eight  feet  long  ;  one  end  of  each  piece 
is  fastened  to  a  nail  on  the  top  board,  then  drawn 
tight  and  fastened  to  the  corresponding  lower  nail. 
The  surplus  twine  is  wound  around  short  pieces  of 
green  wood,  with  a  slit  in  one  end  to  keep  the  twine 
from  unwinding.  Sound  rye  straw  that  has  been 
thrashed  with  the  flail  is  the  best  kind  for  making- 
mats.  They  will  be  made  more  quickly  if  the  straw 
has  been  arrano-ed  beforehand,  shakino^  out  some  of 
the  short  or  broken  pieces,  and  getting  the  butt-ends 
of  the  sheaves  even. 

When  everything  is  in  readiness,  two  men  or 
boys  stand  in  front  of  the  frame,  having  a  sheaf  of 
gtraw  close  to  the  edge  of  the  frame  on  either  side. 


STRAW   MATS. 


27 


Each  takes  a  small  quantity  of  straw  and  places  it 
on  the  lower  board  restinfr  on  the  nails,  the  butt-ends 


MAT    FRAME. 


of  the  straw  toward  the  outer  edge  of  the  fraiY^t* 
Then,  while  holding  the  straw  in  position  with  th^ 
left  hand,  with  a  quick  movement,  each  in  turn  of 


28  COLD  FRAIMES. 

the  five  sticks  is  taken  around  the  npright  twine, 
and  the  sti-aw  made  fast  hy  a  slip-knot.  This  is  re- 
peated until  the  top  row  of  pegs  is  reached,  when 
the  mat  is  finished.  Some  gardeners  use  seven  pieces 
of  twine,  and  state  that  the  mats  last  twice  as  long 
as  when  made  with  -^xe.  Two  expert  men  or  l)ojs 
accustomed  to  the  work  will  make  eight  mats  a  day, 
working  nine  hours. 

These  mats  will  be  found  useful  for  many  things, 
as  well  as  protecting  hot-beds  from  frost ;  they  will 
last  much  longer  if  rolled  up  and  placed  under  cover 
when  not  needed  out  of  doors. 

COLD    FRA^IES. 

These  frames  may  be  constructed  of  rough  hem- 
lock boards,  placing  them  two  deep  in  the  rear  of 
the  bed,  and  oidy  one  in  front. 

When  a  suitable  situation  has  been  chosen,  the 
length  of  the  frame  should  be  north  and  south,  so 
that  the  beds  will  secure  the  advantage  of  the  morn- 
ino^  sun.  The  width  or  distance  between  the  rear 
and  fi'ont  boards  of  the  frame  should  be  five  feet 
ten  inches,  and  the  length  as  necessity  may  demand. 
The  top  of  the  frame,  Avhen  properly  made,  should 
be  eight  or  ten  inches  above  the  \e\e\  of  the  adjoin- 
ing surface,  and  the  top  board  of  the  rear  of  the 
frame  about  two  inches  higher  than  the  front  one ; 
so  that,  when  the  sash  is  placed  in  position,  there  will 
be  enough  fall  from  rear  to  front  to  readily  carry  off 
the  water.  The  boards  are  nailed  fast  to  posts  driven 
well  into  the  gromid,  one  at  either  end  of  the  boards, 
and  one  in  the  middle,  to  strengthen   the   frame. 


COLD   FKA3IES.  29 

Every  three  feet  nari-ow  strips  or  cross-ties  sliould 
be  neatly  mortised  in  the  rear  and  front  boards,  and 
then  nailed  in  position.  These  give  more  strength, 
and  also  make  a  support  for  the  sides  of  each  sash 
when  the  plants  need  covering.  Cold  frames  differ 
from  forcing-beds  only  in  having  no  bottom-heat. 

The  soil  should  be  a  good  quality  of  garden-soil, 
and  at  least  twelve  inches  deep.  Before  transplant- 
ing, this  soil  should  be  well  forked  over,  making  it 
fine  and  mellow,  and  then  raking  the  surface  level. 
From  five  to  eight  hundred  plants  may  be  set  under 
each  sash  of  3x6.  If  the  weather  is  warm  at  the 
time  of  transplanting,  it  may  be  well  to  shade  the 
plants  for  a  few  hours  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  In 
case  the  plants  are  more  than  three  inches  high, 
when  transplanting  them,  to  prevent  their  growing 
any  more  during  the  Fall,  it  is  better  to  remove  the 
sashes  from  the  frames  every  mild  day,  until  such 
time  as  the  cold  weather  sets  in. 

Cold  frame  plants  require  but  little  attention 
during  the  AVinter  months  ;  an  occasional  airing  on 
inild  days  will  be  (piite  sufficient.  This  can  be  done 
by  raising  the  rear  or  side  of  eacli  sash,  and  placing 
a  support  under  it  for  three  or  four  hours  in  the 
middle  of  the  day.  During  very  cold  weather  this 
is  not  necessary,  nor  does  it  at  all  injure  the  plants 
to  be  frozen.  The  gardener's  care  is  to  prevent,  if 
possible,  the  too  frequent  alternations  of  freezing 
and  thawino-  broucrht  about  by  the  sudden  chano-es 
through  the  Winter.  As  the  weather  grows  milder, 
approaching  Spring,  the  plants  should  have  plenty 
of  air  every  day.     Within  comparatively  few  years 


30  COLD   FEAMES. 

marTvet-gardeners  situated  near  large  cities  have 
turned  their  attention  to  growing  Lettuce  under 
glass,  and  they  find  it  a  profitable  business. 

Large  quantities  of  frame-lettuce  are  now  an- 
nually grown  near  N^ew  York,  in  frames  similar  to 
those  described  for  Cabbage  and  Tomato  plants. 
The  only  difference  being,  that  tliey  nmst  be  more 
carefully  constructed,  and  the  soil  should  be  of  bet- 
ter quality  than  that  used  for  plants. 

About  the  1st  of  November  the  Lettuce  plants 
are  transplanted  into  the  frames,  putting  not  more 
than  fifty  plants  to  each  sash.  When  planted  closer 
than  this  they  seldom  form  large  heads,  and  have  to 
be  sold  as  "  basket-lettuce,"  instead  of  so  much  per 
head,  which  makes  quite  a  difference  in  the  receipts. 
Lettuce  planted  in  cold  frames  in  November  will  be 
salable  in  April,  and  w^ill  generally  sell  readily  at 
from  three  to  five  dollars  per  hundred.  Gardeners 
usually  make  two  dollars  per  sash  on  Lettuce  raised 
in  this  way,  and  the  demand  is  always  good  when  the 
Lettuce  is  well-grown  and  carefully  put  up.  With 
bottom-heat,  a  crop  is  ready  for  market  in  nine  weeks 
from  the  date  of  planting. 

For  Lettuce-growing,  the  ''  span  frame  "  is  becom- 
ing popular  among  gardeners  near  New  York.  It 
is  similar  in  its  construction  to  the  ordinary  frame, 
only  it  is  double,  instead  of  single.  A  piece  of  joist 
is  placed  along  the  centre,  supported  by  posts  driven 
into  the  ground  ;  then  cross-ties  are  mortised  into 
this  joist  every  three  feet  on  either  side,  and  then 
into  the  fi-ont  boards.  This  will  make  the  bed  nearly 
twelve  feet  wide,  instead  of  six,  being  higher  in  the 


COLD   FRAMES.  81 

centre — enongli  to  give  a  good  fall  for  the  water 
when  the  sashes  are  placed  on  the  frames.  A  frame 
arranged  in  this  way  will,  with  the  same  kind  of 
treatment,  produce  more  full-grown  heads  of  Lettuce 
to  the  sash  than  the  ordinary  single  frames  in  com- 
mon use  among  gardeners. 


CIIAPTEK    III. 

ARTICHOKE. 

Cynara  scolymus. 

There  are  only  two  varieties  of  this  vegetable 
that  are  grown  in  the  gardens  of  this  country — the 
common  green,  and  green  globe.  The  latter  is  of 
better  quality,  and  gives  more  edible  part  in  propor- 
tion to  the  bulk  of  the  heads  than  the  common  kind. 

The  Artichoke  is  propagated  from  seed,  or  by 
suckers,  when  the  plants  are  once  established.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  a  moderate  hot-bed  about  the 
1st  to  the  10th  of  March,  and,  with  proper  care,  the 
plants  will  be  large  and  strong  enough  to  transplant 
into  the  open  ground  by  the  1st  of  May.  They  are 
rank  feeders,  and  succeed  best  Avhen  planted  in  an 
open  situation,  in  a  deep,  rich  loam.  Unless  the 
weather  is  very  moist  when  they  are  transplanted, 
they  should  be  freely  w^atered  for  a  week  or  two 
after  having  been  set  out. 

Suckers  from  the  old  plants  should  be  taken  off 
early  in  April,  keeping  as  much  of  the  fibrous  roots 
as  possible  with  the  detached  plants.  Before  plant- 
ing they  must  be  carefully  trimmed,  removing  all 
the  outside  leaves.  Plants  put  out  in  the  Spring, 
3x3,  will  produce  heads  in  July,  and  continue  to  do 
60  until  the  1st  of  November.     As  soon  as  the  head 


ARTICHOKE. 


33 


is  taken  off,  the  foot-stalk  should  be  cut  down  close 
to  the  main  stock  or  root 


GREEN   GLOBE   ARTICHOKE. 


As  far  north  as  Xew  York  the  Artichoke  needs 
protection  during  the  AYinter.  We  have  saved  onrs 
for  a  number  of  years  in  the  following  manner : 


34  ASPAKAGUS. 

Early  in  December  the  old  leaves  are  removed 
carefully,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  main  stock  ;  then, 
by  a  digging-fork,  some  mould  is  thrown  from  either 
side  of  the  row  towards  the  row  of  plants,  raising  a 
mound  of  earth  covering  part  of  the  plants.  Then 
a  coating  of  leaves  or  long  manure,  five  or  six  inches 
deep,  is  put  on  top  of  this  earth  and  along  the  line 
of  plants. 

Early  in  April  this  covering  is  removed,  levelling 
the  earth  from  around  the  plants  before  the  young 
sprouts  start.  If  w^anted  for  a  new  bed,  then  these 
plants  can  be  transplanted,  as  described  above.  Not 
more  than  three  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  a  hill. 
Some  gardeners  rub  off  every  alternate  bud,  so  as  to 
increase  the  size  of  those  left  on. 

In  this  part  of  the  country  the  culture  of  the 
Artichoke  is  principally  confined  to  private  gardens  ; 
it  is  seldom  found  in  the  northern  markets.  But  in 
California  it  is  extensively  cultivated,  and  it  may  be 
found  on  the  tables,  served  as  a  vegetable  in  all  the 
first-class  hotels  and  restaurants. 


ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus  cffichialis. 

The  Asparagus  is  a  hardy  perennial,  that,  under 
proper  management,  when  planted  in  the  right  kind 
of  soil,  will  produce  annual  crops  for  an  indefinite 
length  of  time.  When  well-grown  and  carefully 
bunched  it  is  sure  to  meet  with  a  ready  sale.  The 
demand  for  it  has  always  been  good,  e\  en  when  other 
vegetables  were  dull  and  selling  at  low  prices.     From 


ASPARAGUS.  35 

year  to  year  one  hears  the  same  question  asked  by 
the  consumers  of  Asparagus,  Why  is  it  that  this  vege- 
table is  not  more  generally  cultivated  ?  The  area 
devoted  to  its  culture  has  been  increased  very  much, 
but  not  enough  to  keep  pace  with  the  likewise  grow- 
ing demand. 

During  the  last  twenty  years  I  have  been  en= 
gaged,  more  or  less  each  year,  in  raising  vegetables 
for  market,  and,  at  different  times  I  have  kno^\Ti 
each  and  every  kind  of  vegetable,  grown  to  any  ex- 
tent for  market,  become  a  "  drug,"  with  the  single 
exception  of  Asparagus,  which,  thus  far,  has  al- 
ways been  in  good  demand,  and  that,  too,  at  paying 
prices. 

There  are  few  persons  who  have  b^en  engaged 
on  an  extensive  scale  in  "  trucking,"  who  have  not 
been  couipelled,  in  "  l)ad  seasons,"  to  sell  a  part  or 
the  whole  of  a  crop  for  less  money  than  it  cost  to 
produce  it.  This  would  apply  to  the  whole  list  of 
vegetables,  leaving  out  Asparagus,  which,  during  such 
dull  seasons  and  poor  markets,  is  generally  made  use 
of  by  those  who  grow  it  to  work  off  other  kinds  of 
vegetables— that  is,  in  case  a  grocer  wants  two  or 
more  dozen  of  Asparagus  ;  to  get  it  he  would  be 
obliged  to  buy  a  portion  of  whatever  the  grower  had 
in  his  wagon  at  the  time.  In  this  way  the  gardener 
who  had  an  abundance  of  Asparagus  would  not  lose 
as  much  in  the  sale  of  his  crops  in  dull  seasons  as  he 
who  was  not  so  situated. 

AYithin  the  past  ten  years  more  attention  has  been 
given  to  the  culture  of  Asparagus.  It  is  not  rare, 
now,  to  find  fields  of  frc^m  two  to  seven  acres,  in  dif- 


d6  ASPABAGUS. 

ferent  sections,  devoted  to  Asparagus  for  the  New 
York  and  other  large  markets.  Some  of  these  new 
plantations  have  already  begun  to  yield  well,  and  yet 
prices  are  not  in  the  least  affected  ;  on  the  contrary, 
they  have  ad\anced.  (Irowers  estimated  the  yield, 
during  the  past  season,  to  have  been  abo^e  an  aver- 
age one,  and  still  prices  ranged  higher  than  they 
have  for  many  years.  This  condition  of  matters  is 
quite  encouraging  for  those  who  have  young  beds,  or 
are  about  to  eml)ark  in  this  branch  of  gardening 
with  a  view  to  profit. 

To  be  successful  in  the  culture  of  Asj)aragus  for 
market  there  are  a  few  essential  points  to  be  fully 
considered  and  carried  out  before  any  reasonable 
hopes  of  success  can  be  entertained. 

The  first  is  a  selection  of  the  most  suitable  soil 
and  situation  ;  the  second,  a  thorough  mechanical 
preparation  of  the  soil  before  planting,  and  the  third, 
heavy  manuring. 

The  location  of  the  bed  is  highly  important. 
When  Aspai-agus  first  comes  into  market  it  sells 
briskly  at  from  five  to  eight  dollars  per  dozen 
bunches,  and  frequently  as  high  as  twelve  dollars 
per  dozen,  if  the  spears  are  large  and  the  bunches 
carefully  made.  From  these  prices  it  gradually  falls, 
as  the  supply  increases,  until  it  reaches  two  dollars 
per  dozen.  Below  this  price  it  very  seldom  goes, 
although  at  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  dozen 
Asparagus  will  pay  a  handsome  profit. 

When  the  soil  has  only  been  indifferently  pre- 
pared and  poorly  manured,  earliness  of  the  crop  and 
iarge-sized  spears  cannot  be  expected,  and,  as  a  mat- 


ASPARAGUS.  37 

ter  of  course,  under  such  circumstances,  large  profits 
are  not  realized  by  the  joroducer. 

SOWING    THE    SEED. 

Asparagus-seed  should  be  sown  in  the  Spring  in 
a  bed  made  deep,  mellow,  and  rich.  When  the  sur- 
face of  such  a  bed  has  been  raked  over,  removiup- 
any  stones  or  otlier  obstructions,  shallow  drills  should 
be  opened,  about  one  inch  deep  and  a  foot  apart. 
The  seed  must  be  strewed  thinly,  l)y  hand,  in  these 
drills,  and  then  covered  l)y  raking  the  1:)ed  with 
wooden  rakes,  drawing  them  in  the  direction  of  the 
drills.  In  fa\orable  weather  fresh  seed  ^vill  sprout 
in  two  weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing.  Seed  older 
than  one  year  will  take  longer  to  germinate,  and,  if 
more  than  three  years  old,  it  is  unsafe  to  sow  it ; 
there  is  no  prospect  of  its  ever  germinating.  In 
case  the  seed  is  older  than  one  year,  soaking  it  in 
milk  t^venty-four  hours  before  sowing  will  cause  it 
to  germinate  sooner. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  scatter  some  Eadish-seed  in 
the  drills  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  Asparagus-seed. 
The  Radish  will  germinate  and  come  up  in  a  few 
days  from  the  time  of  sowing,  marking  the  lines  of 
the  rows.  This  will  give  a  chance  to  run  a  scuffle- 
hoe  between  the  rows,  destroying  any  weeds  that 
may  have  appeared,  and  keeping  the  surface  loose 
until  the  Asparagus  plants  are  well  up.  Then  the 
spaces  between  the  rows  shoidd  be  disturbed  fre- 
quently, and  no  weeds  or  grass  alloA\'ed  to  grow. 
Well-grown  one-year-old  plants  will  be  strong  enough 
for  transplanting  into  the  permanent  bed.     If  the 


38  ASPARAGUS. 

plants  are  weak,  it  is  better  to  let  tliem  remain  in  the 
seed-bed  another  season.  Plants  older  than  two 
years  should  not  be  set  out ;  it  is  more  than  probable 
they  will  fail  to  give  satisfactory  results. 

Tliose  who  want  only  a  few  hundred  plants,  to 
make  a  family  bed,  will  lind  it  cheaper  to  buy  them 
from  some  responsible  person  than  to  attempt  to  raise 
them  from  the  seed.  One  pound  of  good  fresh  seed 
wnll  sow  a  l^ed  20  x  100  feet,  and  give  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  thousand  plants. 

PREPARING    TUE    GROUND. 

Asparagus  Avill  succeed  best  on  a  deep,  sandy 
loam,  that  is  rich  and  mellow.  There  should  be  no 
short-sighted  economy  pi-ac^tised  in  preparing  the 
gronnd  for  an  Asparagus-l)ed.  All  the  outlay  for 
labor  and  manure,  judiciously  laid  out  in  making  the 
bed,  will  be  returned  to  the  owner,  with  a  high  rate 
of  interest,  within  the  next  ten  years. 

If  the  ground  selected  is  naturally  wet,  or  likely 
to  become  so,  then  by  all  means  have  it  thoroughly 
underdrained.  Asparagus  can  only  be  grown  to  the 
highest  point  of  profit  on  soil  that  is  free  from  stag- 
nant water,  thoroughly  pulverized  to  a  depth  of  at 
least  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches,  and  then  heavily 
manured.  Tliere  will  be  more  satisfaction  from 
planting  only  a  quarter  of  an  acre  on  this  thorough 
scale,  than  in  planting  an  acre  under  indifi^erent 
preparation  and  poor  manuring.  The  ground  should 
be  thoroughly  ploughed  and  sub-soiled  both  ways, 
and  then  plenty  of  well  rotted  yard-manure  ploughed 
under.     The  more  manure  that  is  applied,  the  more 


ASrAKAGFS.  39 

productive  the  yield  will  be  when  the  ])lants  are  fair- 
ly established.  Barn-yard,  manure,  composted  with 
the  salt  and  lime  mixture,  will  be  found  an  excellent 
manure  for  Asj^aragus. 

In  garden-culture  the  ground  selected  should  be 
forked  over  to  the  same  depth,  and  plenty  of  mamire 
added  before  planting.  Ground  in  "good  heart," 
with  an  application  of  from  forty  to  fifty  two-horse 
loads  of  manure  to  the  acre,  will  produce  paying 
crops.  A  dressing  of  fifteen  or  twenty  bushels  of 
salt  to  the  acre,  before  setting  the  plants,  will  be 
found  of  service. 

PLANTING. 

It  has  long  been  a  mooted  question  whether  the 
Fall  or  Spring  is  the  best  time  to  plant  an  Asparagus- 
bed.  In  most  cases  more  will  depend  on  the  condi- 
tion and  tilth  of  the  soil  than  on  the  time  of  setting 
out  the  roots.  Where  the  soil  is  heavy  and  retentive 
of  moisture,  and  the  Winters  long  and  severe,  un- 
doubtedly the  Spring  is  the  best  time.  But  on  sandy 
or  clay  loam,  and  as  far  south  as  Delaware  or  Yir- 
ginia,  Fall-planting  will  do  just  as  well,  and  often 
better  than  Spring-planting,  under  similar  circum- 
stances. 

When  the  ground  has  been  prepared  by  frequent 
ploughings  and  sub-soilings  for  field-culture,  or  the 
garden-spot  thoroughly  trenched  with  the  spade  or 
digging-fork,  then  open  furrows  ten  or  twelve  inches 
deep,  four  feet  apart  one  way  and  two  feet  the  other. 
Wlien  the  bottoms  of  the  furrows  are  levelled,  they 
should  not  be  more  than  nine  inches  deep.     A  single 


40 


ASPABAGUS. 


ASPAKAGUS  ROOT. 


ASPARAGUS.  41 

plant  is  set  at  each  intersection,  care  being  taken  that 
each  root  of  the  plant  is  drawn  out  horizontally  to  its 
full  length.  At  this  distance  apart  there  will  be  about 
hve  thousand  live  hundred  plants  to  an  acre,  and  two 
hundred  plants  will  be  abundant  to  supply  a  family 
of  six  persons.  When  set  out  in  the  Spring,  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  should  not  be  covered  more  than 
three  inches.  This  light  covering  at  first,  or  until 
the  plants  have  started  to  grow,  is  the  safest  plan  to 
follow.  When  the  young  shoots  are  three  or  four 
inches  above  the  surface,  run  a  cultivator  between 
the  rows ;  the  loose  earth  will  fall  towards  the  plants, 
adding  a  few  more  inches  of  covering  above  the 
crowns,  so  that,  l^y  the  end  of  the  first  Sunnner,  the 
surface  will  be  quite  level. 

When  the  Asparagus  is  planted  in  the  Fall,  the 
plants  will  have  to  be  covered  full  depth  at  once  ;  if 
not,  they  will  be  in  some  danger  from  the  snow  and 
water  settling  over  the  crowns,  and  then  freezing. 

In  garden-culture  the  second  covering  may  be 
drawn  over  the  roots  by  the  hand-hoe  any  time  dur- 
ing the  Summer.  A  cultivator  should  be  kept  going 
between  the  rows  often  euough  to  prevent  the  growth 
of  weeds  in  the  bed.  This  will  be  found  the  cheap- 
est method  of  culture.  When  planted  in  the  Fall, 
the  rows  should  have  a  light  mulch  of  barn-yard 
manure  put  on  in  NoTember  and  in  the  Spring  fol- 
lowing ;  tliis  mulch,  with  an  additional  quantity  of 
manure,  either  barn-yard,  fish,  guano,  bone-dust,  or 
superphospate,  should  be  turned  under  early  in 
April,  or  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  be 
worked. 


42  ASPARAGUS. 

Annual  dressings  of  common  salt  will  improve 
the  quality  and  increase  the  size  of  Asparagus.  There 
need  be  no  apprehension  of  danger  from  the  applica- 
tion of  salt.  I  have  frequently  put  on  as  much  as 
two  inches  in  thickness  on  different  parts  of  an 
Asparagus-bed,  and  the  young  plants  have  come 
through  this  coating  of  salt  without  any  apparent 
injury.  A  dressing  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  bushels 
of  salt  to  the  acre,  every  second  year,  will  be  quite 
enough,  in  connection  with  the  annual  covering  of 
l)arn-yard  manure  or  compost  to  be  applied  in  the 
Fall  or  Spring,  as  circumstances  may  dictate. 

No  Asparagus  should  be  cut  from  the  bed  the 
first  or  second  year.  Some  growers  go  so  far  as  not 
to  cut  any  until  the  fourth  year  from  the  time  of 
planting.  If  the  plants  have  grown  vigorously,  a 
crop  may  be  cut  without  at  all  injuring  the  planta- 
tion the  third  year.  The  amount  that  may  safely  be 
taken  off  at  this  time  depends  altogether  on  the  con- 
dition and  vigor  of  the  plants.  In  case  they  are 
weak,  it  would  be  poor  policy  to  weaken  them  still 
more  by  cutting  for  market  or  home  consumption  too 
soon. 

In  the  Fall  of  the  first  year  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
throw  shallow  furrows  from  either  side  towards  the 
rows,  and  then  round  them  off  with  a  hoe  or  rake. 
This  slightly-elevated  ridge  will  dry  out  sooner  in 
the  Spring  than  a  flat  surface  ;  and  Asparagus,  treat- 
ed in  this  way,  will  often  make  a  difference  in  earli- 
ness  of  five  or  six  days,  which  is  an  important  item 
to  those  who  grow  it  for  market. 

Early  Asparagus  always  brings  a  much  higher 


A&PARAGUS. 


43 


price  than  that  which  c(  nnes 
in  late  in  the  season.  There 
fore  every  achantage  from 
location,  character  of  soil 
and  treatment,  mnst  be  tak- 
en into  consideration  by 
those  who  cultivate  for 
profit. 

"Wlien  the  plants  are  set 
so  that  they  have  about  nine 
inches  of  covering  at  the 
end  of  the  third  year  from 
the  time  of  planting,  the 
crowns  will  be  within  seven 
inches  of  the  surface.  At 
this  depth  the  beds  may  he 
ploughed  with  a  one-horse 
plough  in  the  Spring,  and 
the  spaces  between  the  rows 
kept  clean  by  a  cultivator 
during  the  rest  of  the  sea- 
son. In  garden-culture  the 
''  crowns  "  need  only  be  cov- 
ered four  or  five  inches. 
This  will  save  considerable 
in  the  labor  of  working  an 
Asparagus-bed  over  the  old 
method  of  digging  tlie  wh( )le 
surface  every  S[)ring,  and 
doing  most  of  the  work 
with  the  hand-hoe  during 
the  Summer. 


CONOYEH'S  COLOSSAIh 


u 


ASPARAGTTS. 


ASPARAGUS 


VARIETIES. 

Until  quite  recently  there  were  only 
two  varieties  generally  cultivated  for 
market  purposes — tlie  green  and  the 
purple-topped.  The  identity  of  these 
two  has  been  frequently  maintained  by 
many  intelligent  gardeners,  who  attri- 
bute the  differences  in  size  and  color 
to  location,  soil,  and  heavy  or  light  ma- 
nuring. There  is  no  doubt  in  my  mind 
about  these  two  being  distinct  varieties, 
and  that  they  will  show  their  peculiari- 
ties when  grown  on  the  same  ground 
and  under  the  same  treatment.  With 
hea^y  manuring  the  size  can  be  in- 
creased very  decidedly,  but  high  cul- 
ture does  not  change  the  color  of  either. 

Two  years  ago  S.  B.  Conover,  of 
New  York,  introduced  a  new  variety  of 
Asparagus  under  the  name  of  "  Cono- 
ver's  Colossal."  For  this  variety  Mr. 
Conover  claimed  superior  qualities  to 
either  of  the  two  varieties  known  and 
cultivated  by  market-gardeners.  The 
spears  of  this  variety  were  said  to  be  of 
extraordinary  size,  of  tender  and  good 
quality  when  cooked,  and,  for  field  or 
garden-culture,  equally  if  not  more  pro' 
ductive  than  the  green  or  purple-topped 
varieties.  This  claim  had  to  be  sub- 
stantiated by  practical  growers  before 
discarding  old  and  tried  kinds  for  new 
and  untried  ones.     Many  doubted  its 


ASPAEAGtTS.  45 

being  any  other  than  what  was  cuUivated  on  Long 
Island  and  in  other  Asparagus-producing  sections. 

I  have  for  two  years  experimented  with  the 
"  Colossal,"  and  I  am  fully  convinced  that  it  is  a  new 
variety  here,  possessing  many  characteristics  that  will 
make  it  a  valuable  acquisition  to  our  list  of  vegeta- 
bles. Plants  only  one  year  old  will  average  larger 
than  plants  two  years  old,  of  the  other  varieties, 
when  grown  on  the  same  soil  and  under  the  same 
treatment. 

Formerly,  in  making  an  Asparagus-bed,  the  plants 
were  set  too  near  together.  With  the  "  Colossal," 
4x2  will  be  found  better  than  close  planting.  Even 
with  the  green  or  purple-top,  8  x  2  will  be  found,  at 
the  end  of  live  years,  to  produce  more  to  the  acre 
than  if  set  nine  inches  in  the  row  and  eighteen  inches 
between  the  rows. 

CUTTING   AND    BUNCHING. 

Cutting  Asparagus  intelligently  is  one  of  the  nice 
jobs  in  gardening  that  cannot,  without  careful  in- 
structions, be  delegated  to  Tom,  Dick,  or  Harry.  A 
careless  use  of  the  knife  often  spoils  more  stocks  just 
under  the  surface  than  there  are  spears  fit  for  use 
above. 

The  time  to  cut  is  before  the  liead  of  the  Aspara- 
gus branches  out  and  loses  its  compact  form,  when 
the  spears  are  from  six  to  eight  inches  long.  The 
knife  must  be  kept  sharp.  It  should  be  of  a  certain 
shape,  as  seen  on  p.  44.  The  blade  of  this  knife  is 
broad,  and  about  eight  inches  long  ;  most  of  the  cut- 
ting has  to  be  done  with  the  point  of  tlie  knife.     It 


46 


ASl»AIlAGrS. 


should  be  run  down,  almost  perpendicularly,  along- 
side of  the  spear,  cutting  the  spear  obliquely  about 
two  inches  below  the  surface.  By  this  method  very 
few,  if  any,  of  the  young  shoots  are  injured  by  the 
point  of  the  knife.  When  the  bed  is  three  years  old, 
or  the  third  year  from  the  time  of  planting,  it  may 


BUNCHING  MACHINE. 


be  cut  regularly  each  year.  Not  later,  however,  than 
the  middle  of  June,  in  the  Northern  States.  After 
this  date  the  spears  should  be  allowed  to  run  to  seed. 
Where  Asparagus  is  cultivated  for  market,  bunch- 
ing and  tying  are  another  part  of  the  business  that 


ASPARAGUS.  47 

requires  skill  and  practice.  The  bunches,  to  look 
well,  must  be  of  uniform  size  and  length.  Almost 
every  groAver  has,  for  bunching,  a  contrivance  of  his 
0'>vn  invention  ;  Some  of  these  are  very  primitive. 
The  best  that  1  have  seen  is  represented  on  p.  46. 
It  is  simple  in  its  construction,  and  does  the  work 
well.  A  man  of  ordinary  intelligence  can  make  one 
of  them  in  a  couple  of  hours.  It  is  two  and  a  half 
feet  high,  three  feet  long,  and  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches  wide  on  top.  It  looks  on  top  like  a  saddler's 
work-bench  without  the  jaws.  In  front  of  the  seat 
there  is  a  place  hollowed  out,  with  two  narrow  pieces 
of  iron  hoops  fastened  the  proper  distance  apart,  and 
curved,  so  as  to  give  the  right  shape  to  each  bunch. 
Before  putting  the  spears  of  Asparagus  in  place,  two 
tying-strings  of  the  right  length  are  laid  across  this 
mould.  When  the  bunch  is  large  enougli,  the  hinged 
top-piece  is  brought  down  and  the  loop  from  the 
treadle  placed  on  the  side-button  or  hook,  then  by 
the  right  foot  the  treadle  is  pressed  down  and  fast- 
ened in  an  iron  slot.  The  bunch  is  then  tied  with 
bass-matting  or  narrow  strips  of  the  bark  of  water 
elm.  The  treadle  is  then  loosened,  the  bunch  taken 
out,  and  the  operation  repeated.  A  thin  piece  of 
board  is  put  across  in  front  of  the  first  piece  of  iron, 
so  that,  in  bunching,  all  the  heads  of  the  Asparagus 
may  be  pressed  against  this  ])oard.  Tlie  butt-ends 
are  cut  off  all  the  same  length  the  day  on  whicli  they 
are  sent  to  market. 

Sometimes  a  grower  cannot  send  tlie  Asparagus  to 
market  every  day,  but  he  is  compelled  to  keep  it  for 
three  or  four  days.     By  placing  the  bunches  in  pure 


48  ASPARAGtrS. 

cold  water,  and  then  covering  them,  they  may  be 
kept  four  or  five  days,  and  when  taken  out  they  will 
look  as  fresh  as  if  just  cut.  Or  if,  when  cut,  befoi*e 
bunching,  the  spears  are  thrown  on  the  cellar-Hoor, 
and,  when  bunched,  placed  in  cold  water  for  a  few 
hours,  each  spear  will  swell  out  and  look  fresh.  The 
box  on  the  front  of  the  machine  is  intended  for  keep- 
ing a  knife,  strings,  &c.,  &c.  By  winding  the  string 
around  the  box,  when  the  string  is  cut  in  one  place 
it  will  be  the  right  length  for  tying  the  bunch. 

A  few  years  ago  white  Asparagus  was  in  demand 
but  lately  there  has  been  little  call  for  it.  However, 
any  one  can  have  white  Asparagus  by  keej^ing  the 
light  away  from  it  while  growing.  This  can  be  most 
cheaply  done  by  covering  the  bed  thickly,  about  the 
1st  of  April,  with  a  coating  of  salt  hay  or  long  ma- 
nure, eight  or  ten  inches  deep. 

Before  cutting  the  Asparagus  the  litter  is  moved 
one  side  and  then  replaced. 

PROFITS. 

The  annual  returns  from  an  acre  of  Asparagus 
depend  so  much  on  the  character  of  the  soil  and  the 
treatment  it  receives  that  it  is  difficult  to  state  the 
exact  amount.  Some  growers,  favorably  located, 
make  from  six  t(3  seven  hundred  dollars  a  year  iJrofit. 
This  is  much  more  than  is  realized  by  most  growers. 
Taking  one  year  with  another,  a  well-kept  Asparagus- 
bed  will  yield  four  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per 
acre  profit.    _  "^^^ — " 

Since  the  close  of  the  late  war  large  ]^lantations 
of  Asparagus  have  been  made  in  certain  localities  of 


ASrARAGUS.  49 

the  Southern  States.  This  Asparagus  will  find  its 
way  to  the  Northern  markets,  and,  owing  to  the 
natural  advantages  of  climate,  its  early  appearance 
will  affect  the  profits  of  Northern  growers.  Aspara- 
gus can  be  shipped  from  Southern  ports  with  but  lit- 
tle risk  of  injury,  even  if  several  days  should  elapse 
before  it  readies  its  destination.  Open  crates  the 
same  kind  as  those  now  used  by  Peach-growers  will 
answer  for  shipping  Asparagus  to  Northern  markets. 

INSECTS. 

Within  the  last  ten  years  Asparagus-growers  have 
had  serious  cause  for  alarm,  by  the  intToduction  of 
an  insect  from  Europe.  The  Oriocerls  aspamgi  has 
been  doing  a  great  deal  of  damage  on  Lon^  Island 
and  in  the  Asparagus-producing^  districts  of  New 
Jersey.  This  insect  made  its  appearance  a])out  1860. 
Since  that  time  it  has  multiplied  so  fast,  that,  unless 
some  efPectual  means  is  discovered  to  check  its  rav^ 
ages.  Asparagus-growing  will  be  rendered  unprofit- 
able in  some  localities  where  now  it  is  grown  on  a 
large  scale. 


BEETLE   AND   LARVA. 

"^^        are 


The  eggs  of  this  insect  are  oblong.  Thej  ^i, 
placed  on  the  plant  by  one  end,  one  ec^.g  being  some- 
tnnes  attached  to  the  end  of  another.^  They  hatch 
in  about  eight  days.     The  larva  is  very  slow  in  its 


50  ASPARAGUS. 

movements,  and  feeds  on  Asparagus,  eating  holes 
through  the  bark  ;  when  disturbed  it  ejects  a  noisome 
liquid  from  its  mouth,  and  does  much  injury  to  the 
plant.  The  pupae  are  formed  under  fallen  leaves 
and  rubbish  on  the  earth.  The  insect  appears  in 
about  thirty  days  from  the  period  of  laying  the  egg  ; 
it  hibernates  under  the  bark  of  trees,  moss,  lichens, 
old  rails,  &c.,  &c.  As  stated,  it  came  from  Europe, 
and  made  its  first  appearance  on  Long  Island. 

The  best  remedy  that  is  yet  known  is  to  dust  the 
plants  with  fresh  air-slacked  lime  on  beds  one  and 
two  years  planted.  On  young  beds  the  insects  do 
most  damage.  With  bearing-beds,  by  allowing  the 
thin  shoots  to  remain  uncut,  the  larva  collects  on 
them  and  does  not  injure  the  larger  saleable  spears. 
By  going  through  the  bed  once  a  day  with  a  l)asin  of 
hot  water,  thousands  can  be  shaken  into  the  water 
and  are  destroyed.  This  will,  in  many  cases,  check 
their  depredations.  Fine  bone-meal  has  been  tried 
by  some  growers  with  satisfactory  results.  Thia 
dusting  can  only  be  done  with  young  beds,  or  thin 
spears  on  old  beds  ;  for,  if  put  on  spears  intended 
for  table-use,  the  Asparagus  w^ill  taste  of  the  lime  or 
bone.  The  thin  shoots  can  be  cut  off  occasionally, 
and  burned,  destroying  what  are  collected  on  them. 

Forcing. — When  Asparagus  is  wanted  before  the 
out-door  beds  produce  in  April,  it  can  easily  be 
brought  forward  in  hot-beds  or  forcing-pits.  For 
this  purpose  old  roots  are  required ;  those  from  six 
to  ten  years  old  are  the  best. 

The  roots  should  be  put  into  the  bed  in  February, 
and  covered  with  about  three  or  four  inches  of  earth. 


ASPARAGUS.  51 

From  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  plants  may  be  set 
in  a  light  of  3x6;  when  they  start  to  grow  this 
number  of  roots  will  yield  from  fifty  to  sixty  spears 
a  day.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  above  sixty 
degrees,  and  on  mild  days  the  bed  should  be  copious- 
ly watered  and  aired.  It  should  be  covered  with 
straw  mats  at  night  to  protect  against  frost.  In  very 
cold  weather  a  bank  of  horse-manure,  placed  around 
the  outside  of  the  frame,  will  help  to  keep  the  tem 
perature  up  to  at  least  sixty. 


CHAPTER  IV 

BEANS. 

Phaseohcs  vulgaris,  (&c. 

Of  the  Dwarf,  Kidney,  or  Snap  Beans  there  are 
many  varieties,  bnt  only  a  few  are  in  general  cnlti- 
vation. 

Formerly  this  variety  of  Bean  was  extensively 
raised  by  market-gardeners  on  Long  Island,  and  in 
parts  of  Xew  Jersey,  for  the  New  York  market ; 
but  since  the  close  of  the  late  war  the  principal  sup- 
ply, early  in  the  season,  comes  from  Virginia  and 
South  Carolina,  where  lal)or  and  land  are  cheaper 
than  they  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  ^Northern 
cities. 

The  most  popular  and  profitable  varieties  of  the 
Snap  Bean  for  field  or  garden-culture  are  the  follow- 
ing : 

Early  Valentine. 

Refugee,  or  Thousand  to  One. 

Early  Mohawk. 

Wax. 

White  Kidney. 

China. 

The  Early  Valentine  is  decidedly  the  most  profit- 
able to  plaiit  for  home  use  or  market.  This  variety 
will  ripen  ten  or  twelve  days  before  any  of  the 
others,  though  planted  at  the  same  time  and  under 


BEANS.  53 

the  same  treatment.  This  diiference  in  date  of  ripen- 
ing often  makes  an  increase  of  fifty  dollars  in  the 
market  receipts. 

The  Valentine  is  a  tender  lieaii,  of  good  quality, 
and  very  productive. 

The  llefugee,  or  Thousand  to  One,  is  not  so  early 
as  the  Valentine,  bnt  it  answers  well  to  follow  as  a 
second  crop,  if  planted  at  the  same  time.  For  many 
years  I  planted  it  as  a  late  variety  for  pickling,  but 
the  Early  Valentine  has  taken  its  place,  and  I  now 
like  it  better  than  the  Refugee  for  this  pui-pose. 

The  Early  Mohawk  is  a  late  Bean,  larger,  and 
more  hardy  than  the  other  varieties.  The  pods  are 
long,  very  tender,  and  of  good  quality. 

The  Wax  Bean  is  of  comparatively  recent  intro- 
duction, and,  for  family  use,  is  a  great  favorite.  The 
pods  are  large,  tender,  of  superior  quality,  and  re- 
main green  and  lit  for  table  use  longer  than  any 
other  kind  on  the  list. 

CniNA. — At  one  time  this  variety  was  considered 
valuable  for  market,  but,  when  planted  alongside  of 
tlie  Early  Valentine,  the  latter  will  be  found  the  more 
prolitable.  The  China  is  said  to  be  a  few  days  earlier 
than  the  Valentine,  but  I  have  grown  them  side  by 
side  many  a  time,  and  have  always  found  the  Valen- 
tine fit  to  gather  first.  AVhen  young,  the  pods  of 
the  China  are  very  tender  and  sweet,  but  they  soon 
turn  yellow  and  hard. 

WnrrE  KmNEY. — This  is  a  large,  late  variety,  and, 
on  account  of  its  color,  it  is  preferred  for  drying  for 
AVinter  use.  In  a  green  state,  the  pods  are  not  as 
tender  nor  of  as  good  a  quality  as  the  other  varieties. 


64  BEANS. 

The  Kidney  Dwarf  Beans  are  not  very  hardy.  If 
jjlanted  before  settled  weather,  there  is  danger  of 
their  rotting  in  the  ground,  or  of  their  being  injured 
by  late  frosts. 

It  is  safe  to  plant  Snap  Beans  any  time  from  the 
5th  to  the  20th  of  May,  hi  the  latitude  of  Xew 
York,  for  the  first  planting.  For  garden-culture,  a 
succession  of  plantings  should  be  made  every  three 
weeks  until  September,  so  the  table  may  be  con- 
stantly supplied  w^ith  young  Beans  all  through  the 
season. 

These  Beans  will  succeed  best  on  a  rich,  sandy 
loam,  drills  open  about  three  inches  deep  and  two 
feet  apart,  for  field-culture.  The  seed  is  then  scat- 
tered thinly  along  these  drills,  about  an  inch  apart. 
It  takes  five  pecks  to  seed  an  acre.  The  seeds  may 
be  covered  by  a  one-horse  plough,  a  common  hand- 
hoe,  or  by  drawing  the  soil  over  them  with  the  feet. 
The  cultivation  is  principally  done  with  horse-tools ; 
a  mule  and  Carrot-weeder  will  do  all  that  is  neces- 
sary to  keep  the  surface  loose  and  the  weeds  down ; 
or  going  over  them  once  with  the  hand-hoe  will  be 
quite  suflicient. 

The  product  per  acre  varies  from  seventy-five  to 
one  hundred  and  fifteen  bushels  of  green  Beans,  and 
they  usually  bring  from  two  to  four  dollars  per 
bushel  for  the  early  crop  in  the  l^ew  York  market 
When  they  do  well,  they  will  generally  pay  a  profit 
of  about  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dol- 
lars per  acre,  one  year  with  another. 

String  Beans  carry  very  w^ell.  Tw^o  years  ago  my 
brothers  shipped  from  Charleston,  South  Carolina, 


BEA^S.  55 

over  five  hundred  bushels,  during  the  season,  to  'New 
York,  without  having  a  bushel  damaged  on  the  way. 

For  Southern  planting,  the  Early  Valentine  has 
given  the  most  satisfaction  to  gardeners  for  its  earli- 
ness,  productiveness,  and  good  quality.  When  this 
variety  is  scarce  and  cannot  be  had,  the  Refugee,  or 
Thousand  to  One,  is  the  second  choice,  but  in  no 
instance  has  it  been  as  profitable  as  the  Early  Valen- 
tine. 

For  garden-culture,  where  the  cultivation  is  done 
with  hand-tools,  the  rows  need  not  be  more  than 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  apart,  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  gromid.  On  })0(jr  soil  the  rows  may  be 
closer  together  than  when  the  soil  is  in  good  heart. 

In  general,  Southern  growers  have  not  been  care- 
ful enough  in  packing  Beans  for  the  Northern  mar- 
ket. At  the  time  of  packing,  every  Bean  should  be 
green.  A  single  over-ripe  pod  will  frequently  spoil 
the  sale  of  a  whole  crate. 

POLE-BEANS. 

Although  there  are  many  varieties  of  the  Pole  or 
Running  Bean,  but  few  of  them  are  cultivated  with 
profit.  The  AVhite  Lima  and  the  Horticultural  Cran- 
berry are  the  only  kinds  commonly  found  in  market. 
Occasionally  some  of  the  other  varieties  are  grown 
in  private  gardens,  but  very  seldom  by  American 
gardeners. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  some  of  the  best  sorti 
for  garden  or  field-culture  : 

Large  White  Lima. 

Dutch  Case-Knife. 


56  BEAl^S. 

Horticultural  Cranberry. 

The  Kunning  or  Pole  Beans  are  not  so  hardy  as 
the  Snap  Beans.  In  the  hititude  of  Xew  York  they 
should  not  he  planted  in  the  open  ground  before  the 
middle  of  May.  With  a  wet,  cold  Spring,  Lima 
Beans  frequently  rot  if  planted  early,  and  sometimes 
the  gardener  is  obliged  to  plant  them  over  three 
different  times  before  he  can  get  a  set  of  plants. 

Pole  Beans  will  succeed  best  on  a  deep,  rich, 
sandy  loam  that  has  been  thoroughly  worked  before 
j)utting  in  the  seed.  "When  grown  for  market,  earli- 
ness  has  always  to  be  taken  into  consideration,  and, 
to  forward  the  ripening,  many  methods  have  been 
practised  by  wide-awake  gardeners.  Some  plant  the 
Beans  in  moderate  hot-beds,  in  Aj^ril,  and  by  this 
means  get  plants  two  or  three  inches  high  by  the 
middle  of  May.  Other  gardeners  adopt  a  more  sim- 
ple and  practical  method.  Inverted  sod  is  placed  in 
the  cellar,  then  cut  into  small  squares,  and  a  single 
Bean  planted  in  each  square.  When  the  weather  is 
settled,  the  sods  with  the  growing  Beans  are  planted 
around  the  hills.  Where  this  plan  is  carried  out,  all 
risk  of  the  Beans  rotting  is  avoided,  and  there  will  be 
a  difference  of  two  weeks  in  the  date  of  ripening. 

When  ready  for  planting,  the  ground  is  marked 
out  four  feet  each  w^ay.  At  each  intersection  a  hole 
twelve  inches  deep  is  made  with  a  crowbar,  and  a 
cedar  pole  is  set  firmly  in  each  of  these  holes.  A 
forkful  of  well-rotted  manure  should  be  placed 
around  each  pole,  and  covered  with  about  two  or 
three  inches  of  fine  soil,  making  a  hill  around  the 
pole  two  inches  higher  than  the  surrounding  surface, 


BEANS.  57 

and  fifteen  inches  in  diameter.  A  circular  drill  is 
opened  on  this  hill  about  an  inch  deep.  Six  Beans 
are  planted,  at  equal  distances  apart,  in  this  drill, 
always  placing  the  eye  of  the  Bean  downward.  This 
is  an  important  fact  to  bear  in  mind,  as  the  Lima 
Bean  rises  from  tlie  ground  in  this  position.  When 
the  Beans  are  in  position,  a  light  covering  of  tine  soil 
should  be  drawn  over  them. 

One  quart  of  Lima  Beans  will  plant  about  three 
hundred  hills,  allowing  six  or  seven  Beans  to  each 
hill.  The  same  quantity  of  the  Case-Knife  or  of  the 
Horticultural  Cranberry  will  plant  a  hundred  hills 
more,  owincr  to  their  beino^  a  smaller-sized  Bean.  It 
is  always  best  to  use  fresh  seed ;  that  which  was 
grown  the  previous  season  is  preferable,  although 
Beans  two  years  old  will  germinate. 

When  the  young  plants  are  two  or  three  inches 
above  ground  they  should  be  thinned  out,  leaving 
only  three  plants  to  a  hill.  In  lield-culture,  the  work- 
ing between  the  rows  is  done  by  horse-tools  ;  run- 
ning the  cultivator  both  ways  leaves  very  little  to  be 
done  with  the  hand-hoe.  AVIien  the  vines  are  two 
feet  long,  it  is  best  to  go  through  the  patch  and 
fasten  up  those  that  are  not  inclined  to  twine  around 
the  poles.  The  Lima  Bean  always  winds  around  the 
pole  in  the  same  direction  ;  that  is,  from  west  to 
east,  or  in  the  apparent  opposite  direction  from  the 
movement  of  the  sun. 

When  the  vines  are  six  feet  high  the  ends  should 
be  pinched  off.  This  will  cause  them  to  throw  out 
long  side-shoots,  that  will  yield  a  bountiful  supply  of 
large  pods,  hanging  within  easy  reach  for  gathering. 


5S  BEANS. 

The  profit  from  the  ciihnre  of  Lima  Beans  varies, 
from  year  to  year,  according  to  the  season  and  the 
supply  in  market.  When  grown  on  ground  well 
prepared,  and  near  a  home-market,  two  hundred  dol- 
lars per  acre  above  expenses  may  be  realized.  I 
have  frecpiently  gathered,  on  an  average,  one  quart 
of  dry  Beans  from  a  pole.  They  usually  sell  from 
four  to  six  dollars  per  bushel,  and  are  always  in  good 
demand.  From  eighty  to  ninety  bushels  to  the  acre 
of  dry  Lima  Beans  is  considered  a  good  yield,  and 
they  seldom  sell  for  less  than  four  dollars  per  bushel. 
There  is  very  little  difference  in  the  profit  whether 
the  Beans  are  sold  green  or  dried. 

Kunning  Beans  require  a  strong  soil,  and  it  is  use- 
less to  attempt  to  grow  them,  with  a  view  to  profit, 
on  thin,  poor  soil.  Well-rotted  hog-pen  manure,  ap- 
plied in  the  way  described,  will  give  a  fine  growth 
of  Beans.  A  small  quantity  of  finely-ground  bones, 
or  of  superphosphate,  applied  to  the  hill  at  the  time 
of  planting,  or  at  the  first  hoeing,  gives  the  young 
plants  a  vigorous  start,  which  they  are  likely  to 
maintain  through  the  whole  season. 

The  first  outlay  in  preparing  to  grow  Beans  is 
for  good,  heavy  poles.  Cedar  are  the  best ;  they 
Avill  cost  from  one  to  three  dollars  per  hundred  ;  but 
if  they  are  put  under  cover  during  the  AYinter,  they 
will  last  eight  or  ten  years. 

The  size  and  productiveness  of  Bunning  Beans 
may  be  increased  from  year  to  year  by  selecting  for 
seed  only  the  largest  pods,  and,  from  these,  saving 
none  but  the  finest  specimen  beans. 


BEETS. 


59 


BEET. 


Beta  vulgaris. 

The  Beet  is  a  rank  feeder^  and  only  produces 
maximum  crops  with  heavy  manuring  and  high  cul- 
ture. It  is  one  of  the  leading  and  most  profitable 
early  crops  grown  by  market-gardeners  near  large 
cities.  AVlieii  the  ground  has  been  well  prepared 
and  the  seed  fresh,  the  crop  seldom  fails. 

The  varieties  most  generally 
cultivated,  either  for  market  or 
home  use,  are  the  following, 
named  in  the  order  of  their 
value  for  market : 

Early  Blood-Turnip. — This 
is  the  most  popular  early  variety 
now  cultivated  by  gardeners.  It 
growls  rapidly,  and,  when  of  full 
size,  is  tender  and  of  good  qual- 
ity. 

Dark  Red  Egyptian  Tur- 
nip Beet — This  is  a  new  variety, 
that  is  highly  spoken  of  by  those 
w^ho  grew  it  last  year.  It  is  said 
to  be  ten  or  twelve  days  earlier 
than  the  Blood  Turnip,  and,  in 
quality,  fully  equal  to  that  va- 
riety. 

Early  Flat  Bassano.— This  is  an  excellent  Beet, 
a  little  coarser  in  texture  than  the  Blood  Turnip.  It 
does  not  sell  as  well  in  market,  owing  to  the  rings  in 
the  flesh  of  the  Beet  being  alternately  white  and  red. 


E.    B.    T, 


60 


BEETS. 


This  is  not  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  therefore  injures  it 
for  a  market  variety.  The  Bassano  is  a  favorite  in  the 
kitchen-garden  for  home  con- 
sumption, and  is  very  early. 
Long  Smooth  Blood  Beet, 
— This  is  without  doul)t  the 
most  popular  Long  Beet, 
either  for  market  or  family 
use.  When  grown  on  strong 
ground,  the  roots  are  long, 
smooth,  free  from  rootlets, 
and  of  line  quality. 

The  AVhite  Sugar  and 
Mangel  AVuetzel  are  grown 
as  a  field-crop  in  dairy  dis- 
tricts, and  they  deserve  a 
passing  word  in  that  con- 
nection. 

AYlien  Beets  are  grown  for  market,  the  ground  is 
heavily  manured  early  in  the  Spring,  using  lifty  to 
seventy  tons  of  yard-manure  to  the  acre.  This  ma- 
nure is  ploughed  under,  the  surface  levelled,  and 
then  the  ground  marked  out,  the  rows  fifteen  to 
eighteen  inches  apart,  with  a  garden-marker.  The 
seed  is  put  in  with  a  seed-drill,  using  four  to  six 
pounds  of  fresh  seed  to  an  acre.  Four  pounds  would 
be  quite  enough,  provided  all  the  seed  would  germi- 
nate and  come  up.  But  it  is  always  better  to  ha\e 
garden-seeds  come  up  too  thick  than  too  tliin  /  es- 
pecially is  it  so  with  Beets,  for,  when  young,  they 
will  sell  readily  l)y  the  barrel  for  greens.  Gardeners 
sometimes  sell  from  thirty  to   forty  dollars  worth 


DARK  RED  EGYPTIAN  BEET. 


BEETS. 


61 


from  an  acre  of  Beets  when  thinning  them  ont.  In 
case  the  seed-drill  does  not  cover  the  seed  sufhcient- 
ly,  passing  along  the  rows  and  draw- 
ing the  earth  by  the  feet  over  the 
seeds  will  secure  a  full  covering. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  sow  some 
Turni})  or  long  scarlet  Eadish-seed 
in  the  drill  at  the  same  time.  The 
Eadishes  mature,  they  are  pnlled 
and  marketed  before  the  Beets  are 
of  any  size. 

Those  sown  early  will  be  ready 
for  market  in  June,  and  the  crop 
all  off  by  the  15tli  of  July.  When 
pnlled,  the  Beets  mnst  be  trimmed, 
removing  all  the  decayed  leaves 
and  the  rootlets,  then  washed  and 
bunched,  pntting  four  or  five  beets 
to  each  bunch.  This  is  consider- 
able tremble,  but  they  nsually  bring 
from  seventy-five  cents  to  one  dol- 
lar per  dozen  bunches,  and,  with  a 
good  crop,  they  will  yield  abont 
two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  an 
acre  profit.  In  S(^)me  fa\'orable  lo- 
calities the  profits  will  average  high- 
er, but  in  (nu-  garden  the  sum  named 
is  the  amount  generally  realized. 
During  the  growing-season  the 
gronnd  must  be  kept  loose,  aud  free 
from  weeds.    The  vouiig  Beets  must 

1        . 1   .  T  i.    +     Vl  4^    ,,>.  ;,        LO^'G  SMOOTH  BEET. 

be  thinned  out  to  tln-ee  or  tour  in- 


* 


62  BEETS. 

dies  apart  in  the  row  when  the  plants  are  about  three 
inches  high. 

The  Blood  Turnip  will  mature  sooner  than  the 
Long  Smooth  Blood,  and  a  larger  space  is  devoted  to 
its  culture  by  practical  gardeners,  who  soav  it  in  tlie 
Spring  for  market.  For  Winter  use,  the  seed  may 
be  sown  as  late  as  the  15th  of  June  ;  in  fact,  tlie 
Beets  from  seed  sown  at  that  time  will  be  found 
more  tender  in  the  Winter  than  those  from  seed 
sown  earlier.  The  same  is  true  of  the  Long  Blood 
Beet.  The  latter  is  more  popidar  for  market,  as 
well  as  for  table  use,  during  the  Winter  and  Spring 
months. 

The  White  Sugar  and  Mangel  Wurtzel  are  gener- 
ally cultivated  as  field-crops  for  feeding  stock  in  the 
Winter.  When  grown  for  this  purpose,  the  distance 
between  the  rows  should  be  from  two  to  two  and  a 
half  feet,  so  that  the  cultivation  can  be  done  with 
horse-tools,  instead  of  with  hand-hoes. 

Ground  that  is  in  good  heart,  and  well  worked 
by  ploughing,  harrowing,  &c.,  &c.,  will  yield  from 
twenty  to  twent^^-five  tons  of  Beet-root  to  the  acre, 
with  an  application  of  fifteen  or  twenty  two-horse 
loads  of  yard-manure. 

When  everything  is  ready,  the  surface  should  be 
raised  into  narrow  ridges  ;  that  is,  with  a  one-horse 
plough,  commencing  at  one  side  of  the  field,  two 
furrows  should  be  thrown  together.  A  continuous 
system  of  back-furrowing  is  what  is  wanted.  The 
tops  of  these  ridges  are  then  raked  off  with  an  iron 
rake  or  hoe,  removing  any  stones,  lumps,  &c.,  tfec. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  from  the  1st  to  the  15th 


BEETS. 


63 


of  May  witli  a  seed-drill,  iising^  five  or  six  pounds  of 
seed  for  an  acre.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  well  np, 
a  horse-tool  should  be  passed  l)etween  the  rows,  dis- 
turbing the  surface,  so  that  the  weeds  may  gain  no 
headway  while  the  plants  are  small.  By  sowing  the 
seed  on  these  ridges,  instead  of  on  the  level,  the  cul- 
tivator may  begin  at   once  without   injury  to   the 


ROOT    CLEANER   OR   CARROT    WEEDER. 


young  plants.  The  soil  loosened  by  the  culti\ator 
will  fall  to  the  centre  of  the  furrow  between  the 
ridges,  and  not  on  the  young  beets. 

By  running  the  root-cleaner  between  the  rows 
once  every  two  Aveeks,  the  weeds  may  be  kept  down 
without  troulde  and  at  a  trifling  cost. 

When  three  inches  high,  they  should  be  thin- 
ned out  to  five  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Later 
in  t^.ie  season  the  Beet-tops  give  so  nuich  shade,  that 
little  culture  will  be  recpiired  to  keep  tlie  field  per- 
fectly free  from  weeds.  The  important  point  is 
to  gain  time  early  in  the  season ;  for.  if  the  weeds 


64:  BORECOLE. 

once  get  ahead,  it  is  hard  work  to  get  the  best  of 
them. 

The  culture  of  the  different  kinds  of  roots  for 
stock-feeding  is  destined,  before  long,  to  form  a  large 
branch  of  farm-industry,  and  they  can  be  grown  at 
a  moderate  expense  when  lal)or-saying  implements 
are  introduced  in  their  cultivation. 

Hoots  grown  for  market  or  for  cattle  can  be  kept 
all  Winter  in  root-cellars,  or  in  pits  out  of  doors. 
Full  directions  for  making  and  covering  such  pits 
will  be  found  under  the  head  of  Carrots,  in  another 
part  of  this  book. 

BORECOLE. 

Brassica  oleracea  acephalo. 

We  have  of  Borecole,  as  well  as  of  many  other 
kinds  of  vegetables,  a  long  list  of  varieties,  but  com- 
paratively few  of  them  are  cultivated  either  in  pri 
vate  gardens  or  for  market.     Among  those  that  are 
grown  to  some  extent  are  the  following : 

Brussels  Sprouts. — This  variety  is  generally  cul- 
tivated in  private  gardens.  It  grows  from  two  to 
four  feet  high,  and  produces  miniature  Cabbages 
from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter  all  around  the 
stem.  These  small  compact  heads  are  the  parts  pre- 
ferred for  cooking.  The  top  of  the  plant  resembles 
a  half-grown  liead  of  Savoy.  These  top  leaves  are 
sometimes  used  as  greens  in  Winter  ;  they  become 
quite  tender  when  touched  by  the  frost. 

The  seed  of  the  Brussels  Sprouts  may  be  sown  in 
April  in  the  open  ground,  and  the  plants  put  out  in 
the  garden  in  June,  two  and  a  half  feet  apart  eack 


BORECOLE. 


65 


way.  They  should  be  cultivated  iu  tlie  same  man- 
ner as  late  Cabbages.  If  transplanted  in  June,  they 
will  be  fit  for  use  in  September,  and  will  continue 
to  ])roduce  until  cliecked  by  frost.  If  some  of  the 
late  plantiuo'  ai'e  "  lifted  "  before  the  cold  weather 
sets  in,  and  '"  heeled  in,"  covering  the  roots  and  part 


BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. 


of  the  stem  with  earth,  in  a  cellar,  they  can  be 
used  during  the  Winter  months  ;  they  will  be  found 
delicate  in  tiavor,  and  tender. 

This  variety  should  be  planted  in  a  deep,  rich 


6^ 


BOKECOLE. 


soil,  and  kept  carefully  cultivated  while  growing. 
When  seed  is  wanted,  select  the  best  specimens  late 
in  the  Fall,  and  give  them  the  same  care  recom- 
mended  for  wintering  seed  Cabbages.  Fifty  plants 
will  be  enough  to  supply  a  medium-sized  family 
with  these  miniature  Cabbages. 

Dwarf  German  Greens. — This  hardy  variety  is 
well  known  to  market-gardeners  near  l^ew  York, 


GERMAN   GREENS. 


and  is  more  generally  grown  than  any  other  kind  of 
greens.  It  is  called  ^'  Sprouts,"  and  cultivated  ex- 
tensively on  Long  Island  and  in  New  Jersey  for  the 


BORECOLE.  67 

Kew  York  market.  It  will  grow  and  winter  better 
on  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  than  when  raised  on  a  hea\'y 
soil.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  September,  using 
two  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre,  on  ground  well  ma- 
nured and  w^orked,  in  rows,  from  twelve  to  tifteen 
inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are  two  inches  high, 
let  them  be  carefully  hoed,  thinning  them  out  where 
they  are  too  thick.  Some  gardeners  put  on  a  mulch 
of  salt  marsh-hay  in  December,  removing  it  in  April. 
When  the  Sprouts  have  made  a  fair  growth  in  the 
Fall,  mulching  is  not  necessary.  AVhen  Spinach  is 
scarce,  this  kind  of  greens  sells  freely  in  large  qnan- 
tities  and  at  very  profitable  rates.  Where  it  does 
well,  gardeners  realize  from  tw^o  to  three  hundred 
dollars  per  acre  profit.  Prices  often  fall  very  low. 
I  have  known  liundreds  of  barrels  of  Sprouts  to  be 
sold  at  fifty  cents,  and  even  less,  per  barrel,  while 
other  seasons  they  will  range  from  two  to  four  dol- 
lars per  barrel.  Two  ounces  of  seed  will  yield 
enough  for  garden-culture  for  home  use.  The  seed 
can  be  sown  early  in  April,  and  tender  greens  can 
be  had  in  this  way  in  June.  AVhen  grown  on  rich 
soil  it  is  very  tender.  It  is  a  favorite  variety  among 
the  Germans  for  Spring  greens. 

Green  Curled  Scotch. — This  is  another  good 
variety,  but  not  grown  so  extensively  as  the  German 
Greens.  The  seed  of  the  Scotch  should  be  sown  in 
April  and  transplanted  in  June,  the  same  distance 
apart,  and  treated  the  same  as  in  the  cultivation  of 
Late  Cabbages. 

The  ground  should  be  kept  well  hoed  or  culti- 
vated during  the  early  part  of  the  growth,  because^ 


68  BORECOLE. 

later  in  the  season,  the  leaves  spread  so  as  to  prevent 
culture.  The  Green  Curled  Scotcli  Borecole  is  hardy, 
and  improves  in  (piality  for  table  use  when  tuucdied 
by  frost.  It  will  grow  two  feet  high  and  two  or 
three  feet  in  diameter,  when  planted  on  good  soil 
and  carefully  cultivated.  It  is  grown  in  small  lots 
for  market,  and  is  much  liked  by  tliose  who  know 
anything  about  it.  It  is  very  desirable  as  a  Winter 
vegetable. 

Purple  Fringed. — This  variety  so  nearly  resem- 
bles the  Scotch,  except  in  its  color,  that  there  is 
nothing  gained  by  cidtivating  the  two  in  the  same 
garden.  In  size,  habits,  and  (piality,  they  are  simi- 
lar, requiring  the  same  kind  of  ground  and  treat- 
ment to  bring  them  to  maturity.  One  ounce  of 
Borecole-seed  will  produce  over  four  thousand  plants. 
A  small  paper  of  the  seed  Avill  give  plants  enough 
for  the  kitchen-garden. 

BROCCOLI. 

Brassica  oleracea  hotrytis. 

There  are  a  number  of  kinds  of  the  Broccoli,  all 
of  them  resembling  the  Cauliflower  in  form  and 
growth,  as  well  as  in  appearance  and  flavor  of  the 
edible  part.  As  yet,  the  Broccoli  is  grown  to  a  ^ery 
limited  extent  in  this  country  ;  this  may  be  atti-ib- 
uted  to  tlie  uncertainty  of  tlie  crop.  In  Eughnid, 
where  the  climate  is  more  moist,  it  is  a  profltable 
crop  among  market-gardeners  near  London  or  other 
large  cities.  But,  with  us,  practical  gardeners  are 
very  cautious  about  risking  too  mucli  in  a  single  sea- 
son, knowing  from   experience  that  a   drought   of 


BEOCCOLI.  69 

tliree  or  four  weeks'  duration  may  destroy  the  whole 
crop.  I  have  occasionally  succeeded  with  Broccoli  one 
season  ;  then,  being  encouraged  to  plant  on  a  larger 
scale,  I  have  failed  the  following  threCj  losing  more 
than  1  made  the  one  successful  year. 

When  the  crop  does  succeed,  it  pays  a  handsome 
profit.  Well-formed  heads  seldom  bring  less  than 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  dollars  per  hundred,  or  from 
one  hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  per  thousand,  and  always  in  brisk  demand. 
The  market  is  never  over-stocked  with  Cauliflower  or 
Broccoli. 

For  early  Summer  use  the  seed  of  the  Broccoli 
may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  about  the  1st  to 
the  10th  of  Septeml)er,  and  pricked  out  into  cold 
frames  in  the  latter  part  of  October.  Before  cold 
w^eather  these  frames  should  be  covered  with  sash, 
and  the  young  plants  receive  the  same  treatment  as 
that  rec^ommended  for  Early  Cabbages.  Early  in 
April  they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  open 
ground.  They  require  a  ^ery  rich,  deep,  and  rather 
heavy  soil.  They  should  be  set  out  in  rows  two  feet 
and  a  half  apart,  and  the  plants  two  feet  apart  in 
the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  frecpiently  hoed, 
preventing  the  appearance  of  Aveeds  and  grass.  By 
the  middle  of  June  the  heads  will  begin  to  form. 
If  the  Aveather  is  very  warm,  the  heads  sometimes 
"  button,"  or  run  to  seed.  By  bending  some  of 
the  large  leaves  over  the  young  heads,  to  shade 
them  from  the  hot  sun,  the  buttoning  may  be  pre- 
vented. 

For  a  Fall  crop  the  seed  should  be  sown  about 
4* 


TO  BROCCOLI. 

the  1st  of  May,  and  transplanted  into  the  garden  or 
field  early  in  July,  setting  them  the  same  distance 
apart,  and  cultivating  them  in  the  same  way  as  the 
Spring  crop.  With  moist,  cool  weather  in  Septem- 
ber and  October,  the  Broccoli  will  head  when  planted 
on  good  soil.  Besides  the  regular  quantity  of  barn- 
yard manure,  an  application,  at  the  first  hoeing,  of 
three  or  four  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre  of  Peru- 
vian guano,  will  be  found  a  good  investment  in  grow- 
ing Broccoli  for  profit. 

There  are  only  two  varieties  that  are  grown  for 
market  to  any  extent : 

WnrrE  Cape. — This  is  the  most  popular  kind  of 
Broccoli,  and  looks  very  much  like  Cauliflower,  the 
only  difference  being  that  the  heads  are  a  creamy 
instead  of  a  pure  white. 

Purple  Cape  differs  only  in  color  from  the  White 
Cape.  In  other  respects  it  is  very  similar ;  and  when 
the  plants  are  strong  and  healthy,  they  are  of  first 
quality,  fully  equal  to  any  other  sort  that  I  have 
grown. 

The  seed  of  the  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  is  im- 
ported from  England  and  France,  as  that  grown  in 
this  country  is  not  reliable.  The  young  plants  in 
the  seed-bed  are  subject  to  the  annoyance  of  the 
Cabbage-flea  {Ilaltiea  striolata)^  which  very  often 
destroys  all  the  plants  in  a  few  days.  A  recipe  to 
j)revent  tlie  fleas  destroying  the  plants  will  be  found 
under  the  head  of  Cabbage  ;  as  also  some  specifics 
for  the  prevention  of  "  club-i'oot,"  which  affects  Broc- 
coli and  Cauliflower  as  well  as  Cal)bage. 

One  hundred  plants,  of  either  the  White  or  Pur- 


BEOCOOLI.  71 

l^le  Cape  Broccoli,  will  be  enough  for  a  supply  for 
the  kitchen-garden. 

In  the  Southern  States  the  seed  of  the  Broccoli 
should  be  sown  late  in  May  and  transplanted  in  Sep- 
tember. They  will  continue  to  grow  and  form  heads 
all  Winter,  and,  with  quick  transportation,  it  would 
pay  to  send  them  to  Northern  markets  early  in  the 
Spring. 


CHAPTER  V. 

CABBAGE. 

Brassica  oleracea  capitata. 

This  popular  vegetable  might,  with  a  consider- 
able degree  of  propriety,  be  included  among  the 
staples,  for  it  is  in  almost  as  general  use  as  the  Po- 
tato, especially  among  the  working  classes.  Every 
working-man  who  owns  or  tills  a  piece  of  ground, 
no  matter  how  small,  will  devote  part  of  it  to  a  Cab- 
bage-patch. In  fact,  no  kitchen-garden  is  complete 
without  its  well-tended  square  of  Cabbages,  both  for 
Summer  and  AYinter  use. 

The  culture  of  Cabbages  for  market  has  been 
steadily  on  the  increase  in  localities  contiguous  to 
large  cities.  At  the  present  time  single  growers  in 
our  neighborhood  will  plant  more  Cabbages  for  mar- 
ket than  were  planted  in  the  whole  township  fifteen 
or  twenty  years  ago.  Yet,  e'sery  carefid  cultivator 
finds  an  ecpially  ready  sale  for  his  crop  at  paying 
prices.  It  is  no  longer  a  rare  sight  to  see,  in  the 
vicinity  of  large  cities,  manufacturing  towns,  and 
mining  districts,  fields  of  five,  eight,  or  ten  acres 
exclusively  devoted  to  Cabbages.  Where  there  is  a 
good  market  near  by,  the  cultivation  of  Cabbages 
generally  proves  a  profitable  part  of  the  gardener's 
business.     But  to  make  it  so,  requires  certain  con- 


CABBAGES.  73 

ditions  to  be  fulfilled  on  liis  part  ;  if  these  are  neg- 
lected, it  would  be  much  wiser  for  him  to  let  Cab- 
bage-culture  alone. 

To  insure  success  with  Cabbages  as  a  field-crop, 
the  soil  must  be  stirred  deeply,  well  manured,  and 
thoroughly  pulverized  before  planting.  On  thin, 
shallow  soil,  no  matter  how  much  manure  is  used, 
the  "^  run  "  of  Cabbages  will  be  from  medium  to 
small,  with  very  few  large,  solid  heads.  Large,  fine 
Cabbages  are  always  in  demand,  even  when  small 
ones  are  a  druo^  in  the  market.  The  Cabbao^e  is  a 
rank  feeder,  and  requires  a  deep,  rich  soil  to  bring 
it  to  the  highest  point  of  profit. 

The  market-gardener  usually  confines  his  efforts 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  early  varieties.  This  crop 
is  without  doubt  the  more  important  to  him,  espe- 
cially if  he  is  so  situated  that  he  can  always  rely  on 
a  plentiful  supply  of  barn-yard  manure  at  a  low 
price  ;  for,  unless  the  early  Cabbage  ground  is  deeply 
worked  and  heavily  manured,  the  crop  will  fail  to 
yield  any  profit.  From  ground  rich  enough  for 
Cabbages,  a  crop  of  Lettuce  and  one  of  Celery  can  be 
taken  in  addition  to  the  crop  of  Cabbages,  the  same 
year ;  these  three  crops,  when  they  all  succeed,  will 
give  a  handsome  profit  on  the  amount  of  capital  in- 
vested. 

A  sandy  loam  that  is  thoroughly  drained,  either 
naturally  or  by  artificial  means,  w411  be  found  the 
best  for  this  crop,  other  things  being  equal.  Earli- 
ness  and  large,  uniform-sized  heads  are  the  import- 
ant points  to  be  gained  by  the  gardener  in  its  suc« 
';essful  cultivation. 


74:  CABBAGES, 

The  seed  for  early  Cabbages  should  be  sown  in 
the  Fall,  in  the  latitude  of  New  York,  between  the 
1st  and  15th  of  September,  in  the  open  ground. 
About  the  middle  of  October  they  will  be  large 
enough  to  prick  in  cold  frames,  putting  from  five  to 
eight  hundred  to  a  sash  of  3x6.  The  plants  should 
be  set  deeply,  covering  nearly  all  the  stem.  When 
cold  weather  sets  in  the  sashes  must  be  put  on,  and 


GARDEN  MARKER. 


the  only  care  necessary  during  the  Winter  w^ill  be 
to  give  them  air.  In  mild  weather,  and  on  the  ap- 
proach of  Spring,  remove  the  sashes  from  the  frames, 
so  as  to  "  harden  off "  the  plants  before  setting  them 
in  the  field. 

Early  varieties  can  also  be  grown  in  hot-beds ; 
started  in   February,  and  the  young  plants  trans- 


CABBAGES. 


75 


planted  into  other  beds  in  Marcli.     They  will  be 
large  enough  to  set  out  in  the  garden  in  April. 

More  explicit  directions  will  be  found  on  this 
subject  in  the  chapter  on  "  Hot-beds." 

Market-gardeners  prefer  cold  fi-anie  plants  for 
their  main  crop  of  early  Cabbages.  As  early  in 
April  as  the  ground  is  in  condition  to  be  worked, 
the  yard-manure  is  hauled  on 
the  field,  using  from  sixty  to 
seventy-five  two-horse  loads  to 
the  acre.  This  is  spread  broad- 
cast, and  ploughed  under.  The 
surface  is  then  levelled  by  turn- 
ing a  harrow  upside  down  and 
dragging  it  over  tlie  ground,  so 
as  not  to  displace  tlie  manure. 
The  space  is  then  marked  out, 
the  rows  two  feet  apart.  The 
plants  are  then  set  in  the  rows, 
eighteen  inches  apart,  with  the 
ordinary  dibble.  This  can  be 
done  very  rapidly  by  persons 
familiar  with  the  work.  A  smart 
workman  will  transplant  seven 
thousand  in  ten  hours.  Lettuce 
may  then  be  planted  between 
the  rows  of  Cabbages,  one  foot 
apart  in  the  rows.  With  this 
method  all  the  work  of  cultivation  has  to  be  done 
with  hand-hoes ;  and  with  Cabbage,  as  with  all 
garden-crops,  clean  culture  must  be  the  rule. 

Farther  south,  where  land  is  cheaper — as,  for 


DIBBLEr 


76  CABBAGES. 

instance,  around  Norfolk — a  wider  distance  between 
the  Cabbages,  so  as  to  use  horse-tools,  inaj  be  found 
advisable. 

The  Lettuce  is  cut  and  marketed  in  May,  before 
the  Cabbages  need  the  room.  They  are  ready  for 
market  early  in  July,  and  the  whole  is  disposed  of 
before  the  20th,  leaving  full  time  for  Celery.  Be- 
sides the  regular  quantity  of  barn-yard  manure,  an 
application  of  three  or  four  hundred  pounds  to  the 
acre  of  Peruvian  guano,  finely-ground  bone,  or  super- 
phosphate of  lime,  scattered  broadcast  before  plant- 
ing, will  be  found  of  material  use  in  perfecting  the 
growth  of  the  crop. 

When  planted  at  the  distances  named,  there  are 
usually  about  twelve  thousand  marketable  heads. 
Of  late  years  the  average  price  has  been  sixty  dol- 
lars per  thousand,  or  seven  hundred  and  twenty  dol- 
lars per  acre,  from  early  Cal)bages. 

Practical  gardeners  calculate  that  the  Lettuce 
and  Celery  will  cover  all  the  expenses,  leaving  the 
amount  realized  from  the  Cabbages  as  profit.  Of 
course,  the  cost  of  yard-manure  will  affect  the  net 
proceeds.  At  Newark,  N.  J.,  or  New  York,  a  two- 
horse  load  of  horse-manure,  free  from  straw,  costs 
only  a  dollar  and  a  quarter  or  a  dollar  and  a  lialf. 
The  same  kind,  at  Philadelphia,  will  cost  three  tiuies 
that  amount.  So  that,  as  before  stated,  the  profits 
will  depend  on  the  cost  of  manure,  and  the  distance 
the  same  has  to  be  carted,  which  will  make  a  de- 
cided difference  in  the  net  result.  There  are  a  few 
Bpecial  localities,  near  large  cities,  where  manure  can 
be  had  iu  abundance  at  low  prices ;  in  these  places 


CABBAGES. 


77 


gardening  can  be  carried  on  witli  more  success  and 
iiigher  rates  of  profit  tlian  where  manure  is  scarce  and 
liio-h,  and  produce  has  to  be  transported  long  distances. 

There  are  only  a  few  early  varieties  much  culti- 
vated l)y  gardeners.  The  most  popular  of  those  now 
grown  for  the  New  York  market  is  the 

Jersey  Wakefield.— The  heads  of  this  variety 
are  large  and  solid,  conical  in  form,  and  of  a  fine 
texture.     With  the  same  treatment,  it  will  produce 


JERSEY  WAKEFIELD. 

more  marketable  heads  to  the  acre  than  any  other 
early  variety. 

OxHEAKT. — This  variety  is  still  grown  extensively 
for  market,  l)ut  it  is  not  so  reliable,  nor  so  large,  as 
the  Jersey  Wakefield.  For  the  kitchen-garden, 
however,  it  is  always  a  favorite  and  excellent  kind. 

Large  York  is  grown  to  some  extent,  l)ut  it  is 
every  way  inferior  to  the  Wakefield  and  the  Oxlieart 
for  market. 


78  CABBAGES. 

Early  York. — This  popular  variety,  "better  known 
and  more  generally  cultivated  than  any  other  early 
Cabbage,  has  a  small,  compact  head.  Its  earliness 
and  delicate  flavor  have  always  made  it  a  desirable 
sort  for  the  kitchen-garden,  but  it  is  too  small  to  be 
grown  now  by  market-gardeners  for  profit. 

Early  Flat  Dutch  comes  into  market  just  at  the 
close  of  the  season  of  the  early  varieties,  and  usually 
sells  for  high  prices.  Our  crop  of  this  kind  last  year 
sold  from  twelve  to  fourteen  dollars  per  hundred, 
with  a  brisk  demand.  The  early  Flat  Dutch  requires 
more  room  than  the  other  varieties — at  least  two 
feet  apart  each  way.  We  usually  get  about  seven  to 
eight  thousand  marketable  heads  from  an  acre. 

Early  Winnigstadt. — This  kind  is  not  as  early 
on  our  farm  as  the  early  Flat  Dutch,  when  planted 
on  the  same  ground.  Owing  to  its  lateness  in  head- 
ing, it  is  not  much  grown  for  market  by  those  who 
have  cultivated  the  earlier  sorts.  But  if  a  succes- 
sion of  varieties  is  wanted,  it  will  serve  to  fill  up  a 
gap.     It  is  of  good  quality,  and  boils  tender. 

Late  Cabbages  are  grown  in  many  localities  on 
a  very  extensive  scale,  and  the  demand  for  large, 
solid  heads  is  generally  good,  with  prices  high 
enough  to  leave  a  handsome  margin  for  profit,  when 
the  expenses  are  deducted. 

For  the  past  ten  years  we  have  grown  on  our 
farm,  near  Kewark,  N.  J.,  from  seventy-five  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  Fall  Cabbages  annually, 
and  we  find  less  trouble  now  in  selling  one  hundred 
rnousand  heads  than  we  did  twenty  years  ago  in  dis- 
posing of  one-fifth  of  that  number.     With  a  single 


CABBAGES. 


79 


exception,  Avell-grown  Fall  or  Winter  Cabbages  have 
not  sold  for  less  than  sixty  dollars  per  thousand  since 
1860.  Frequently  during  that  time  they  have  sold 
freely  at  one  hundred  dollars  per  thousand,  and  even 
at  higher  prices.     We  have  sold  our  crop  the  present 


LARGE   FLAT    DUTCH. 


Winter  at  one  hundred  dollars  per  thousand.  But 
few  varieties  of  Fall  Cabbages  are  grown  for  profit 
by  farmers  or  gardeners  near  New  York.  Among 
the  best  may  be  named  the 

Large  Flat  Dltcil — This  variety  has  a  lai-ge. 


80  CABBAGES. 

solid  head,  nearly  flat  on  top,  stem  sliort,  color  pale 
green.  It  is  the  most  profitable  variety  that  we  cul- 
tivate for  Fall  or  Winter  use.  As  it  has  hut  few 
outside  leaves  when  the  head  is  ripe,  it  does  not  win- 
ter as  w^ell  as  the  Bergen  with  some  growers. 

Large  Late  Bergen. — The  Bergen  forms  a  large, 
rather  round  head,  and  very  solid.  It  needs  richer 
ground  and  more  room  than  the  Flat  Dutch,  as  the 
leaves,  when  half -grown,  are  large  and  spreading. 
This  variety  should  not  be  planted  closer  than  two 
feet  and  a  half  each  way  ;  while  the  Flat  Dutch  may 
be  the  same  distance  between  the  rows,  and  oidy  two 
feet  apart  in  the  row.    Both  kinds  are  of  good  quality. 

Stone-Mason. — The  Stone-Mason  has  a  small,  firm 
head,  of  good  quality.  In  Northern  localities  it  is 
not  in  any  way  superior  to  the  early  Flat  Dutch,  and 
it  is  too  small  to  be  grown  for  market. 

Drumhead  Savoy. — This  variety  is  decidedly  the 
best  of  the  Savoys,  either  for  market  or  the  kitchen- 
garden.  The  head  is  large,  solid,  and  the  quality 
good.  It  is  preferred  by  many  to  any  other  kind  of 
Cabbage  for  Winter  use.  In  phmting,  our  custom  is 
to  plant  one-eighth  of  the  whole  Savoys,  and  seven- 
eighths  Flat  Dutch. 

Green  Globe. — This  is  a  small  variety,  only 
grown  in  the  kitchen-garden.  The  head  is  small, 
the  leaves  quite  Avrinkled,  and  the  color  green. 

Bed  Dutch. — The  demand  for  this  variety  is 
limited,  as  it  is  only  used  for  pickling.  It  should  be 
planted  early  in  June,  as  it  grows  slowly,  requires  a 
long  season  to  mature,  and  richer  ground  than  tlie 
other  Fall  kinds. 


CABBAGES. 


81 


The  culture  of  late  varieties  of  Cabbage  is  quite 
different  from  the  method  described  for  the  early 
kinds.  Late  Cabbages  can  be  grown  as  a  second 
crop,  following  early  Potatoes,  Peas,  &c.,  &c.,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  cultivation  can  be  done  with 
horse  instead  of  with  hand-tools. 

Sowing  Seed. — Eight  or  ten  years  ago  our  rule 
was  to  sow  the  seed  about  the  10th  of  May,  and 


DRUMHEAD   SAVOY. 


finish  planting  l)efore  the  20th  of  July.  But,  for  the 
last  three  or  four  years,  late  planting  has  not  given 
satisfaction  ;  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  plants 
set  out  after  the  10th  of  July  failed  to  make  solid 
heads,  being  only  fit  for  cow-feed  in  the  Fall. 

It  is  very  important  to  the  Cabbage-grower  to 
have  fresh  seed,  true  to  name  ;  and  every  man  who 
raises  Cabbages  as  a  field-crop  should  select,  each 


82  CABBAGES. 

year,  from  his  growing  crop,  some  of  the  best-formed 
heads  to  preserve  for  seed.  The  disappointment  and 
loss  from  sowing  impnre  seed  are  vexations,  and  can 
only  be  avoided  by  following  the  above  method.  Be- 
fore sowing,  the  seed-bed  shonld  be  well  pulverized 
and  made  rich  by  adding  plenty  of  well-rotted  ma- 
nure, and  forking  it  under,  or  by  applying  a  liberal 
dose  of  finely-ground  bone  or  superphosphate.  The 
surface  should  then  be  raked  level  and  smooth,  re- 
moving any  stones  or  hard  lumps  of  soil.  Then 
make  shallow  trenches,  about  one  inch  deep  and  one 
foot  apart.  The  seed  may  be  sown  by  hand  in  these 
trenches,  endeavoring  to  sow  evenly,  l^y  taking  a 
small  quantity  of  seed  in  the  right  hand  and  allow- 
ing it  to  pass  into  the  trench  between  the  thumb  and 
fingers.  Cover  the  seed  by  raking  the  surface  of  the 
bed  lightly  w^ith  a  wooden  rake,  drawling  the  rake 
straight  with  the  lines  of  the  trenches. 

When  the  seed  is  fresh  and  the  weather  favor- 
able, it  will  come  up  in  ten  days  from  the  time  of 
sowing.  At  this  stage  of  growth  the  young  plants 
require  close  attention.  If  the  w^eather  is  dry,  the 
plants  are  frequently  attacked  by  a  small  black  in- 
sect {Haltica  striolata)  resembling  a  flea  in  appear- 
ance and  deportment.  I  have  known  this  little  pest 
destroy  one  hundred  thousand  young  plants  in  three 
or  four  days.  In  fact,  if  some  measures  are  not  in- 
stantly taken  to  stop  his  career,  there  will  be  but 
few  plants  left,  no  matter  how  much  seed  has  been 
sown.  Dusting  the  plants,  when  tliey  first  come 
through  the  surface,  with  flour  of  l)one,  and  repeat- 
ing  it   after   each  rain,  will  often  keep  them  ofl^. 


CABBAGES.  83 

Another  excellent  remedy  is  to  steep,  at  the  time  of 
sowing  the  seed,  ten  or  twelve  pounds  of  tobacco- 
stems  in  a  large  tub,  adding  three  or  four  quarts  of 
soft-soap  and  some  urine.  When  the  plants  are  up 
and  any  signs  of  the  "  fleas "  appear,  the  bed  may 
be  syringed  with  this  tobacco  solution,  and  the  plants 
dusted  w^ith  some  air-slacked  lime.  This  should  be 
done  early  in  the  morning,  while  the  dew  is  on  the 
plants.  Two  applications  of  this  solution,  followed 
by  the  lime,  I  have  never  known  to  fail  in  driving 
off  these  insects  from  the  seed-bed. 

During  the  early  stages  of  growth,  the  spaces 
l)etween  the  rows  should  be  stirred  frequently  to 
keep  down  the  w^eeds.  The  plants  will  do  best  on 
loose,  mellow,  fresh  ground.  One  pound  of  fresh 
seed  will  give  thirty  to  forty  thousand  plants,  with 
careful  treatment.  Seed  sown  in  good  soil  by  the 
1st  of  May  will  produce  plants  large  enough  to  trans- 
plant into  the  field  l>y  the  IDth  of  June. 

Sowing  a  few  seeds  in  the  place  where  the  Cab- 
bages are  to  be  grown,  may  do  in  the  garden,  but 
not  in  field-culture. 

Late  Cabl)ages,  like  the  early  varieties,  require  a 
deep,  rich,  and  well-disturbed  soil,  free  from  stag- 
nant water.  A  heavy  clay  loam,  well  fertilized,  will 
bring  a  good  crop  of  Fall  Cabbages.  On  stubble- 
ground,  intended  for  Cabbages  the  following  year, 
we  Fall-plough,  throw^ing  the  ground  into  ten-feet 
ridges.  This  space  is  manured  in  the  Spring  and 
planted  wdth  Potatoes.  Sometimes  we  adopt  another 
method.  In  the  latter  part  of  April  the  ground  is 
ploughed  deeply,  and  during   the   month  of   May, 


84:  cabbIges. 

when  other  important  work  is  not  pressing,  we  haul 
out,  for  Cabbages,  from  tliirty  to  forty  two-horse 
loads  of  compost  or  well-rotted  barn-yard  manure  to 
the  acre,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  land.  This 
is  thrown  in  convenient-sized  heaps,  usually  mak- 
ing four  of  a  wagon-load,  in  regular  lines  and  dis- 
tances through  the  field.  It  is  then  spread  broad- 
cast, and  ploughed  under  immediately. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances,  the  soil,  by  this 
time,  Avill  l)e  loose  and  mellow,  and  in  fine  condition 
for  planting.  Unless  the  ground  is  very  rich,  I  gen- 
erally apply  a  top-dressing,  l)efore  harrowing  the  last 
time,  of  some  special  compost  or  concentrated  ma- 
nure, such  as  superphosphate,  finely -ground  l)one,  or 
fish  guano,  at  the  rate  of  from  five  hundred  to  one 
thousand  pounds  to  the  acre.  In  any  case,  the 
special  manures  are  previously  mixed  with  twice 
their  own  bulk  of  soil  before  applicaticjn. 

Cabbages  will  always  do  l)etter,  other  conditions 
being  equal,  on  a  clover-sod,  tlian  ou  ground  that 
has  been  previously  croj^ped.  On  sod  it  is  lietter  to 
apply  the  long  manure  on  the  surface,  and  turn  it 
under.  Then  top-dress  the  surface  with  enough  of 
concentrated  manure  or  compost,  to  gi\e  the  plants 
a  good  start.  The  ground  is  marked  both  Avays  be- 
fore planting,  making  the  rows  two  feet  and  a  half 
apart  one  way  and  two  feet  the  other.  This  can  be 
rapidly  done  with  an  instrument  known  to  gardeners 
as  a  "  marker."  It  is  made  of  a  piece  of  joist  ten  or 
twelve  feet  long,  having  holes  bored  every  three 
inches,  and  a  handle  al)out  six  feet  long  mortised  in 
the  centre  of  the  head,  and  braced  froui  either  side. 


CABBAGES.  85 

When  completed,  it  looks  like  a  hand  hay-rake  on  a 
large  scale. 

A  horse  or  mule  can  be  attached  to  tliis  marker, 
where  there  is  a  large  field  to  be  laid  out.  By  mark- 
ing the  ground  both  ways,  the  labor  of  cultivation  is 
much  lessened  ;  for  the  horse-cultivator  can  be  run 
both  ways,  leaving  very  little  to  be  done  by  hand. 

Tnuixplanting. — For  Fall  or  AV inter  use,  we  be- 
gin planting  in  the  field  about  the  middle  of  June, 
and  expect  to  finish  by  the  first  week  in  July. 

Moist  or  damp  weather  is  desirable  for  trans- 
planting. The  plants  are  first  pulled  from  the  seed- 
bed, and  at  once  placed  carefully  in  large  baskets  or 
boxes.  The  long  tap-roots  are  shortened  to  about 
three  inches.  Each  person  is  then  furnished  with  a 
"dibble,"  which  is  made,  by  cutting  off  the  upper 
end  of  a  connnon  digging-fork  handle,  leaving  a 
shank  about  four  inches  long.  This  shank  is  made 
smooth  and  round,  and  slightly  pointed  on  the  lower 
end.  Expert  gardeners  have  a  round  iron  shoe  to 
slip  over  this  shank,  so  that,  while  planting,  the  earth 
will  not  adhere  to  the  dibble. 

The  baskets  of  plants  are  placed  at  regular  dis^ 
tances  across  the  field,  so  that  a  handful  of  plants 
taken  from  basket  No.  1  will  plant  the  row  as  far  as 
basket  Xo.  2,  and  so  on.  The  operator  holds  the 
dibble  in  his  right  hand  and  a  bundle  of  plants  in 
the  left ;  a  hole  is  made  at  each  intersection,  and  the 
root  of  a  plant  placed  in  it,  when,  by  another  move- 
ment of  the  dibble,  the  plant  is  fastened  and  the  soil 
made  level  around  the  stem — only  requiring  three 
movements  of  the  dibble  to  fasten  a  jjlant. 
5 


86  CABBAGES. 

The  rule  among  gardeners  is,  that  the  plant 
should  be  fastened  so  firmly,  that,  when  the  edo-e  of 
one  of  the  leaves  is  taken  hold  of  bj  the  thumb  and 


CABBAGE   PLANT, 


CABBAGES.  87 

finger,  the  piece  of  leaf  would  be  torn  off  before  the 
plant  could  be  pulled  out  of  place.  In  setting  plants 
in  dry  weather,  we  sometimes  dip  the  roots  in  a  so- 
lution made  of  cow-manure  and  water,  thick  enough 
so  that  a  portion  of  it  adheres  to  the  roots  of  the 
plants. 


SCAKIFIEK. 


On  our  farm  a  day's  work  for  a  man  is  six  thou- 
sand five  hundred  plants,  set  in  the  way  above  di- 
rected. When  hurried,  we  frequently  transplant 
seven  thousand  plants  in  ten  hours.  So  that,  when 
there  are  three  or  four  men  planting  at  that  rate,  they 
will  very  soon  put  out  one  hundred  thousand  plants. 

For  a  week  or  so  from  the  time  of  planting, 
unless  the  weather  is  very  moist,  the  plants  will  wilt 
some  during  the  middle  of  the  day.  But  just  as 
.soon  as  they  fairly  hold  up  their  heads,  a  cultivator 
should  be  run  between  the  rows,  to  disturb  the  sur- 
face and  prevent  the  weeds  from  starting. 

At  first,  running  the  cultivator  one  way  will  be 
enough.  AYhen  the  plants  have  made  a  good  start 
and  the  leaves  are  larger,  then  the  root-cleaner  or 
Carrot-weeder  can  be  run  through  the  rows  cross- 
wise. This,  when  carefully  done,  will  leave  little  or 
nothing  to  be  done  with  the  hand-hoe.  The  Carrot- 
weeder,  Perry's  scarifier,  and  Mapes'  one-horse  lift- 


88 


CABBAGES. 


ing  sub-soil  plough,  are  the  ouly  tools  that  we  use  in 
cultivating  Cabliages.  Heavy  rains  sometimes  harden 
the  surface  ;  then  the  sub-soil  is  run  once  in  each 
row,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  to  break  up  the  crust. 
The  Carrot- weeder  and  scarifier  (taking  off  the  ploughs 
of  the  latter)  are  kept  constantly  going  during  the 
early  part  of  the  growing  season — in  fact,  until  the 
size  of  the  leaves  fills  up  the  space  between  the  rows. 


ONE   HORSE   SUB-SOIL   PLOUGH. 

The  object  is  not  to  run  deep,  but  simply  keep' 
the  surface  loose  and  free  from  weeds.  Unfavor- 
able or  wet  weather  often  prevents  the  use  of  these 
horse-tools  until  the  weeds  have  gained  some  head- 
way. Over  this  no  cultivator  has  any  control ;  he 
can  oi:^ly  make  the  best  use  of  the  means  at  hand, 
and  adapt  his  work  to  circumstances  ;  for  every  dol- 
lar saved  in  culti^-ating  is  a  dollar  earned.  The 
desideratiiiii  being  the  production,  on  an  acre,  of 
the  greatest  number  of  large-sized  heads  of  Cabbage 


CA^BAGliS.  89 

at  tlie  least  possible  expense,  at  the  same  time  keep- 
ing the  soil  in  good  heart. 

If  the  plants  are  set  two  bv  two  and  a  half  feet 
apart,  there  will  be  eight  thousand  nine  hundred  on 
an  acre.  When  there  are  no  losses  from  diseases  or 
insects,  growers  calculate  that  there  will  be  six  thou- 
sand ^ve  hundred  to  seven  thousand  marketable 
heads.  At  fifty  dollars  per  thousand,  this  would 
give  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars ;  then, 
deducting  one  hundred  dollars  for  expenses,  there 
will  be  left  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  profit  on 
an  acre.  Taking  one  year  with  another,  these  fig- 
ures will  be  found  nearly  correct.  We  have,  the 
present  season,  received  over  six  hundred  dollars 
from  an  acre  of  Fall  Cabbages ;  but  prices  averaged 
higher  than  usual. 

Those  who  grow  late  Cabbages  for  market,  always 
bury  them  in  the  field  until  such  time  as  they  are 
wanted — in  mid-winter  or  "towards  Spring.  We  usu- 
ally bury  from  twenty  to  fifty  thousand  heads  every 
year,  and  seldom  lose,  by  rotting,  anything  worth 
mentioning.  We  begin  to  bury  Cabbages  for  Win- 
ter use  from  the  15th  to  the  25tli  of  November, 
always,  however,  being  guided  by  the  weather.  In 
case  the  weather  is  warm  and  pleasant  along  toward 
the  middle  of  the  month,  then  the  work  is  put  off 
until  a  later  day  ;  while,  on  the  contrary,  with  cold, 
frosty  nights,  and  no  growth,  the  work  of  pulling 
the  Cabbages  and  placing  them  in  "  beds  "  is  pushed 
forward  with  all  possible  haste.  White  frost  seldom 
does  any  injury  to  Winter  Cabbages ;  but  if  the 
heads  are  left  exposed  to  two  or  three  successive 


90  CABBAGES. 

nights  of  hard,  black  frost,  the  Cabbages  will  not 
keep  well,  and  will  probal)ly  rot  badly  before 
Spring.  Therefore  it  is  better,  in  the  latitude  of 
New  York,  to  pull  and  bury  the  Cabbages  on  or  be- 
fore the  25th  of  November,  to  be  sure  tliat  the  out- 
side leaves  are  not  injured  by  frost. 

At  the  time  of  pulling,  each  man  is  provided 
with  a  stick  about  three  feet  long-  and  one  and  a 
quarter  inches  in  diameter.  This  stick  is  carried  in 
the  right  hand,  to  be  used  as  a  pry  while  pulling  the 
Cabbage,  and,  when  the  head  is  turned  upside  down, 
for  knocking  the  earth  from  the  roots.  Beginning 
at  one  side  of  the  field,  every  man  takes  two  rows 
of  Cabbages,  and,  as  he  pulls,  sorts  them  into  two 
sizes.  The  large,  solid  heads  are  thrown  into  one 
line,  while  the  second  size,  or  small,  hard  heads,  are 
put  by  themselves  into  another.  This  plan  we  find 
to  work  better  than  huddling  the  heads  all  together, 
large  and  small.  It  sometimes  happens,  in  the  Win- 
ter, that  a  customer  wants  a  load  all  of  one  kind, 
either  large  or  small ;  and  when  they  are  in  separate 
beds,  there  is  no  trouble  in  getting  out,  at  the  time, 
just  what  is  wanted. 

When  the  Cabbages  are  all  pidled,  a  suitable  spot, 
or  ridge,  is  chosen  to  make  the  bed  ;  or  a  continuous 
line  of  beds  across  or  the  length  of  the  patch.  A 
narrow  strip,  eight  feet  wide,  of  ground  that  is  a 
little  higher  than  the  adjoining  surface,  is  preferable 
for  the  purpose.  The  Cabbages  from  either  side,  for 
a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  are  carried  to  tliis 
chosen  line,  and  one  man  places  them  close  together, 
heads  down  and  roots  up.     We  make   these   beds 


CABBAGES.  Ol 

eight  feet  wide,  and  of  sncli  length  as  to  save  time 
bv  not  caiTving  tlie  Cabbages  nnneeessaiy  distances. 
Sometimes  a  bed  is  forty  feet  long ;  then  a  vacant 
space  of  the  same  length,  then  another  bed  of 
twenty-five  or  thirty  feet,  and  so  on  from  one  end 
of  the  lot  to  the  other.  The  principal  object  is  to 
have  the  ontside  lines  of  the  rows  of  beds  straight, 
as  it  will  make  much  easier  work  in  putting  on  the 
covering  of  eartli.  The  second-sized  heads  may  be 
placed  in  the  same  row,  but  in  separate  beds.  AVhen 
Cabbages  have  done  well,  there  will  not  be  more 
than  a  fifth  of  the  crop  that  will  come  under  the 
second  size  ;  but  it  often  happens  that  one-half,  or  a 
third,  are  small,  and,  of  course,  the  beds  of  large  and 
small  will  be  alternate.  Three  active  men  Mdll  puU 
and  place  properly  in  beds  twelve  thousand  Cabbages 
in  a  working-day  of  nine  hours  ;  and  with  a  pair  of 
horses  and  a  plough  the  same  number  of  men  will 
cover  twenty  thousand  in  a  day. 

When  pulled  and  placed  hi  beds,  heads  down, 
they  may  be  left  without  covering  with  earth  for 
two  or  three  weeks,  suffering  no  injury,  proAaded  the 
weather  is  warm  and  mild.  In  fact,  under  such  cir- 
cumstances it  is  better  to  leave  them  uncovered  until 
steady  cold  weather  begins. 

When  the  beds  are  all  laid,  then,  with  a  plough 
and  two  horses,  three  furrows  are  turned  towards 
the  hue  of  l,eds  on  either  side.  The  first  furrow- 
slice  is  turned  close  to  the  Cabbages,  covering  them, 
if  possible.  By  means  of  shovels",  the  loose  earth  on 
each  side  is  thrown  o^er  the  Cabbages,  coverincr  all 
the  heads  and  an  inch  or  so  of  the  stocks.     When 


92  CABBAGES. 

the  bed  is  finished,  there  should  he  nothing  yisible 
except  the  roots  and  part  of  the  stocks.  The  less 
quantity  of  soil  that  is  used  to  do  this,  the  better ; 
for  Cabbages  will  keep  longer  and  in  finer  condition 
with  two  than  with  four  inches  of  soil  as  a  coverinsr. 
The  greater  the  depth  of  soil  put  on,  beyond  the 
amount  necessary  to  cover  the  leaves,  the  more  difii- 
cult  it  will  be,  in  the  Winter,  to  take  them  out  as 
they  are  wanted. 

Many  Cabbage-growers  still  practise  placmg  the 
Cabbages  close  together,  in  single  rows,  heads  down, 
and  then  turning  a  furrow  from  either  side  toward 
the  Cabbages.  When  the  plough  fails  to  cover  all 
the  heads,  the  work  is  finished  with  hand-hoes. 

The  curled  leaved  varieties  of  Savoy  will  do  bet- 
ter if  "  heeled  in,"  with  the  heads  up,  in  the  way 
described  for  keeping  seed  Cabbages.  They  will  boil 
more  tender  when  kept  in  this  way  than  with  the 
heads  buried,  although  they  will  keep  well  when 
protected  the  same  as  other  Winter  varieties  of  Cab- 
bage. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  Cabbage-greens,  in  the 
Spring,  can  have  plenty  of  them  by  saving  the 
stocks  and  heeling  them  in  after  the  Ciibbages  liave 
been  cut  off  during  the  Fall.  Eai-ly  in  the  S]3ring 
these  stocks  are  taken  from  their  Winter  quarters 
and  planted  out  in  some  nook  or  corner  of  the  gar- 
den. Yery  soon  the  young  Cabbage-sprouts  may  be 
gathered  in  abundance,  before  Spring  ^'egetables  are 
ripe.  German  gardeners  adopt  this  plan  of  saving 
the  stocks  and  transplanting  them  into  the  field  in 
the  Spring,  to  raise  the  sprouts  for  market. 


CABBAGES.  93 

Insects. — The  most  formidable  insect  with  which 
the  Cabbage-grower  has  to  contend  with  is  the  Antho- 
myia  hrassicce.  It  canses  what  is  commonly  kno^vn 
as  "  clnb-root."  This  disease  is  not  confined  to  the 
Cabbage  ;  the  whole  Brassica  tribe  suffers  more  or 
less  from  it. 

On  our  place  we  cannot  grow  Cabl)ages  two  years 
in  succession,  on  the  same  ground,  without  losing  the 
whole  crop  by  the  "  club-root ;  "  and  even  every  al- 
ternate year  is  not  safe  for  late  Cabbages. 

The  Anthomyia  hrassicce  is,  in  appearance,  like 
the  house-fiy,  only  smaller.  The  eggs  are  deposited 
in  the  root  of  the  Cabbage  just  below  the  surface. 
In  ten  or  twelve  days  they  hatch,  and  the  small  mag- 
gots begin  at  once  to  feed  on  the  root,  thus  produc- 
ing the  well-known  disease.  The  root  becomes  en- 
larged, and  the  leaves  wilt  badly  under  a  hot  sun, 
and  the  plant  will  not  increase  in  size. 

Last  year  I  offered  a  premium  of  one  hundred 
dollars  for  a  remedy,  and  received  a  large  number 
of  communications  in  reply.  Fourteen  of  them 
recommended  the  application  of  lime  in  almost  as 
many  different  ways.  Our  soil  is  a  heavy  clay,  the 
debris  of  red  sandstone,  and  sprinkling  lime  broad- 
cast did  not  check  nor  prevent  the  insects  from  in- 
juring the  plants.  On  a  piece  of  ground  where  Cab- 
bages had  been  grown  the  year  before,  we  applied  a 
dressing  of  lime  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred  bushels 
to  the  acre,  and  again  planted  it  with  Cabbages. 
They  were  badly  affected  with  club-root.  One  cor- 
respondent said  that  caustic  shell-lime  should  be 
applied,  using  about  a  teaspoonful  to  each  plant,  by 
5* 


94 


CABBAGES. 


CLUB-ROOT  CABBAGE. 


CABBAGES.  95 

remo^-ing  a  little  earth  from  around  the  stem,  put- 
tmg  on  the  lime,  and  then  replacing  the  soil.  This 
method,  with  dusting  the  roots  of  the  Cabbage  plants 
with  tine  bone-flour  before  setting  them  in  place,  has 
given  me  the  best  results.  I  will  try  them  sepa- 
rately and  in  connection  next  year,  and  will  then  be 
a  better  judge  as  to  which  to  give  the  credit. 

Tliere  is  no  doubt  in  my  mind  but  that  lime  does 
check  the  insect ;  for  I  have  known  many  instances 
where  Cabbages  have  been  grown  ten  or  twelve  years 
in  succession  on  lime-soils,  and  not  a  case  of  club- 
root  has  occurred. 

Pieris  m^<^.— Cabbage  Worm.  This  insect,  in- 
troduced from  Europe  into  Canada  in  1857,  made  its 
first  appearance  in  New  Jersey,  and  others  of  the 
Middle  States,  as  well  as  in  some  of  the  Southern 
States,  last  year.  But  already  its  ravages  on  the 
Cabbage  and  Turnip  crops  have  caused  serious  alarm 
among  those  who  cultivate  these  vegetables  to  any 
extent. 

The  worm  is  of  a  light-green  color,  large  body, 
and,  when  full-grown,  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in 
length.  It  eats  the  Cabbage-leaves  with  an  astound- 
ing rapidity.  Mr.  Sprague,  of  Boston,  has  described, 
in  the  American  EntOTnologist^  Yol.  II.,  page  370, 
a  small  beetle,  which  is  probably  parasitic  on  the 
Anthomyia  hrasslcce. 

These  worms  made  their  first  appearance  on  our 
Cabbage-field  about  the  27th  of  July.  They  ap- 
peared so  suddenly  and  in  such  numbers  as  to  ren- 
der it  impossible  to  remove  them  by  hand.  One 
woman  in  our  neighborhood  attempted  it  with  her 


96 


CABBAGES. 


patch ;  slie  picked  off  two  pailsfiil,  in  three  days, 
from  three  hundred  heads  of  Cabbage ;  and  while 
she  was  doing  so,  the  green  parts  of  the  Cabbages 
were  nearly  all  demolished.  Where  there  w^ere  iifty 
thousand  Cabbages  in  a  piece,  this  way  of  removal 
was  not  practiciible. 

We  immediately  set  to  work  and  sprinkled  the 
Cabbages  with  lime,  hoping  this  would  drive  them 
off ;  but  it  had  not  the  slightest  effect  in  arresting 
their  d.epredations.  At  this  time  a  friend  broke  off 
a  Cabbage-leaf  with  one  of  these  worms  upon  it,  and 
dusted  the  surface  of  the  leaf  and  the  body  of  the 
worm  with  lime,  so  that  he  might  closely  watch  the 
result.  While  in  this  condition  it  ate  a  scpiare  inch 
of  the  leaf  in  forty -two  minutes.  This  was  a  satis- 
factory evidence  that  the  lime  would  not  stop  nor  at 
all  inconvenience  the  worms  while  destroying  the 
Cabbage-leaves. 


WORM  AND  MOTH  (Pleris  Tapce). 

We  then  applied  hue  salt,  carbolic  powder,  and  a 
dozen  otlier  specifics,  but  without  any  success.  At 
last  we  mixed  with  twenty  parts  of  superphosphate 
of  lime,  one  part  of  carbolic  powder,  and  three  parts 
of  fresh  air-slacked  lime.     These  were  thoroughly 


CARROTS.  97 

mixed,  and  a  small  quantity  of  the  compound  thrown 
by  hand  into  each  head  of  Cabbage.  This  was  re- 
peated three  times,  with  the  most  satisfactory  re- 
sults. In  some  localities  it  may  be  found  necessary 
to  apply  the  remedy  oftener.  Our  crop  was  not 
injured  five  per  cent.  The  heads  damaged  most 
were  in  sheltered  places  near  the  fences.  Many  of 
these  moths  may  be  caught  with  a  net,  by  boys, 
where  they  do  not  appear  in  too  large  numbers. 

There  were  three  distinct  broods  of  these  worms, 
hatched  and  fed  on  the  Cabbages,  from  the  time  they 
appeared  in  July  until  cold  weather.  The  last  lot 
was  not  so  destructive  as  the  first  or  second.  In 
some  localities  the  early  Cabbages  are  attacked  and 
injured  badly  by  a  small  maggot,  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  the  Onion-maggot  {Antliomyia  ceparuir)i). 
Caustic  lime,  or  fine  flour  of  bone,  applied  in  the 
way  recommended  for  "  club-root,"  is  the  best  rem- 
edy that  we  have  tried  to  check  this  pest. 

CARROT. 

DauGics  carota. 

Many  intelligent  agricnltnral  writers  have  for 
years  persistently  advocated  the  more  general  culti- 
vation of  the  Carrot,  not  only  for  table  use,  but  also 
on  account  of  its  high  value  for  feeding-purposes. 
These  views  have  been  very  slowly  adopted  by  farm- 
ers, not  because  they  in  any  way  doubted  the  state- 
ments of  these  writers,  or  had  any  misgivings  about 
the  value  of  the  Carrot  for  feeding  stock,  but  they 
believed  the  cultivation  of  it  w^as  too  expensive,  often 


98  CARROTS. 

costing  more  than  the  worth  of  the  crop.  I  know 
many  instances  w^here  attempts  have  been  made  by 
good  farmers  to  grow  Carrots,  but  just  at  the  time 
when  the  young  plants  were  fairly  above  ground 
and  needed  immediate  attention,  the  farmer  was  in 
the  midst  of  harvesting  his  hay  and  grain.  These 
had  to  be  got  through  with,  and  the  Carrots  were  left 
untouched  for  two  or  three  weeks.  By  this  time  the 
weeds  had  gained  such  headway,  that  to  attempt  to 
clean  the  piece  appeared  like  an  endless  job.  The 
result  was,  that  Carrots,  weeds,  and  grass  were 
ploughed  under  after  all  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
preparing  the  ground,  cost  of  seed,  sowing  it,  &g. 
With  Potatoes,  Cabbages,  or  Corn,  a  week  or  ten  days 
will  make  but  little  difference  in  the  time  of  the 
first  hoeing,  provided  the  ground  is  in  good  heart. 
But  with  Carrots  this  loss  of  time  is  irreparable,  for, 
unless  the  ground  betw^een  the  rows  is  disturbed  just 
when  the  Carrots  are  coming  up,  the  weeds  will  get 
ahead,  and  it  will  require  a  season's  labor  to  make 
up  the  loss  sustained  by  a  few  days'  neglect  at  the 
commencement.  It  should  be  distinctly  borne  in 
mind  by  those  who  intend  to  grow  Carrots  for  profit, 
that  "  a  stitch  in  time  saves  nine,"  and  that  early  and 
frequent  disturbance  of  the  ground  materially  lessens 
the  expense  of  cultivating  Carrots. 

Soil. — The  Carrot  will  do  w^ell  on  any  character 
of  soil  that  is  deep,  free  from  stones,  and  well  ma- 
nured. A  sandy  loam  is  frequently  recommended 
for  it ;  but,  from  my  experience,  I  am  in  favor  of  a 
heavier  soil,  that  has  been  thoroughly  pulverized  and 
made  fine  by  two  or  three  ploughings  before  sowing 


CARROTS.  99 

the  seed.  Our  method  is,  to  Fall-plough,  and  then 
give  two  ploughings  and  harrowings  in  the  Spring. 
This  will  leave  the  ground  in  fine  tilth.  The  ma- 
nure is  spread  broadcast  on  the  surface  before  the 
last  ploughing,  and  covered.  Before  harrowing  the 
last  time,  the  surface  should  l)e  top-dressed  with 
some  special  manure  or  compost,  to  insure  a  vigorous 
start  for  the  voung  Carrots. 

On  heavy  soil,  it  is  best  to  make  drills,  or  ridges, 
instead  of  sowing  the  seed  on  the  flat.  This  plan 
enables  one  to  pass  a  Carrot  horse- weeder  l)etween 
the  rows  early,  without  injuring  the  young  and  deli- 
cate plants  as  they  are  coming  through  the  surface. 
These  ridges  are  made  with  one  horse  and  a  small 
plough,  commencing  on  one  side  of  the  field  and 
throwing  two  furrows  together,  forming  ridges,  the 
tops  of  which  should  be  five  or  six  inches  above  the 
level  of  the  surface,  and  from  twenty-four  to  twenty- 
seven  inches  apart.  This  space  is  wide  enough  to 
admit  a  horse  or  mule  in  cultivatinflf. 


holbrook'b  regulator  seed-drill. 

Sowing  the  Seed. — The  tops  of  these  ridges  are 
then  made  Gn^  )>y  drawing  a  wooden  rake  or  prong- 


100  CABEOTS. 

hoe  over  each  one,  in  the  line  of  the  ridges,  care- 
fullj  removing  any  hard  himps  of  clay,  stones,  &c., 
to  the  furrows  between.  The  seed  is  sown  by  a 
machine,  nsing  four  to  live  pounds  of  fresh  seed  to 
an  acre.  Carrot-seed  can  only  be  relied  upon  with 
certainty  for  one  year.  With  seed  two  years  old,  I 
would  increase  the  quantity  to  five  or  six  pounds  to 
the  acre.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  sow  sparsely 
some  white  Spanish  Radish-seed,  or,  in  fact,  any 
kind  of  Radish,  in  the  drills  at  the  time  of  sowing 
the  Carrots.  The  Radishes  wnll  germinate  much 
sooner  than  the  Carrots,  showing  distinctly,  in  ten 
or  twelve  days,  the  lines  of  the  rows,  and  thus  en- 
able the  grower  to  cultivate  much  earlier  than  he 
otherwise  could.  When  the  Carrot-tops  are  three 
or  four  inches  high,  the  Radishes  may  be  pulled  out, 
having  fulfilled  their  mission.  Market-gardeners  turn 
these  Radishes  to  account  by  preparing  them  for 
market. 

For  a  Fall  crop,  the  seed  should  be  sown  from 
the  20th  of  May  to  the  1st  of  June.  A  few  days 
earlier  or  later  than  these  dates  will  not  make  much 
difference,  although  it  is  better,  in  my  estimation,  to 
have  the  seed  in  the  ground  on  or  before  the  1st  of 
June.  Holbrook's  seed-drill  is  simple  in  construc- 
tion— the  best  that  I  have  tested  for  sowing  garden- 
seeds. 

Cultivating. — This,  above  all,  is  the  most  im- 
portant point  in  growing  Carrots  profitably  in  the 
field.  The  moment  that  the  Radishes  are  fairly 
above  ground,  and  before  the  weeds  have  started, 
the  spaces  between  the  rows  should  be  distm'bed  by 


CAEKOTS.  '  101 

a  tool  drawn  by  a  horse  or  mule.  This  should  be 
repeated  within  a  week,  and  often  enough  afterward 
to  keep  down  effectually  the  grass  and  weeds. 

For  many  years  I  have  used  for  this  purpose  two 
implements  which  I  consider  more  simple  and  more 
effective  than  any  others  that  have  come  under  my 
notice— the  Carrot-weeder,  which  does  the  work  with 
light  draft,  and  very  thoroughly  ;  and  Mapes'  one- 
horse  lifting  sub-soil  plough.  In  case  the  ground 
between  the  rows  becomes  hard  from  heavy  rains,  a 
mule  is  attached  to  the  ''  lifter,'-  which  is  run  once 
in  each  space  between  the  rows,  and  three  or  four 
inches  deep,  lifting  and  loosening  the  soil  without 
disturbing  the  roots.  These  are  the  only  tools  I  use 
in  the  culture  of  Carrots,  and  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
stating  that  they  are  the  best  I  have  seen,  simple  in 
construction,  and  easily  managed.  With  a  few  days' 
practice  and  a  steady  animal,  a  man  or  boy  will  run 
the  Carrot-weeder  as  close  to  the  rows  of  Carrots, 
without  injury,  as  the  common  hand-hoe,  and,  of 
course,  doing  it  thirty  times  as  fast. 

When  this  plan  is  carried  out,  the  only  hand- 
labor  necessary  is  to  remove  what  weeds  may  come 
up  directly  in  the  rows,  and  thin  the  Carrots  at  a 
later  date. 

About  four  weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing  the 
seed,  the  weeds  and  some  of  the  Eadishes  should  be 
pulled  out  by  hand.  The  season,  and  other  circum- 
stances, will  often  vary  this  ;  it  is  not,  however,  wise 
to  put  off  too  long  the  first  hand-weeding.  Two  or 
three  weeks  later,  by  the  middle  of  July,  the  Carrots 
should  be  carefully  thinned  by  hand,  leaving  them 


102  CAEEOTS. 

about  four  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  at  the  same  time 
removing  any  weeds  that  may  have  made  their  ap- 
pearance since  tlie  last  weeding.  AYith  an  ordinary 
season,  and  the  horse-tools  kept  actively  going  dur- 
ing the  early  part  of  it,  the  total  expense  for  hand- 
labor,  in  weeding  and  thinning  an  acre  of  Carrots, 
w^ill  not  exceed  twenty-five  dollars.  The  total  cost 
of  producing  an  acre  of  Carrots  should  not  exceed 
sixty-five  dollars. 

An  acre,  under  good  cultivation,  will  yield  from 
five  to  seven  hundred  bushels  of  Carrots,  worth  usu- 
ally fifty  cents  jjer  bushel.  For  the  last  five  years  I 
have  sold  all  our  crop  for  horse-feed  at  seventy-five 
cents  per  bushel,  and  never  have  any  difficulty  in 
finding  purchasers,  at  this  price  by  the  quantity. 
The  Carrot  will,  without  doubt,  become  more  popu- 
lar from  year  to  3^ear  with  those  who  keep  horses 
the  greater  part  of  the  year  on  grain,  especially  for 
hard-worked  draft-horses.  This  I  know  to  be  the 
case^  from  my  experience  in  raising  Carrots  for  mar- 
ket. Livery-stable  keepers  and  express  companies, 
who,  ten  or  twelve  ^^ears  ago,  would  only  order  fif- 
teen or  twenty  bushels  of  Carrots  at  a  time,  now  buy 
them  by  the  one  hundred  bushels  during  the  AVin- 
ter. 

Harvesting  Carrots. — In  the  latitude  of  Nev/ 
York,  Carrots  wanted  for  Winter  use  should  be  dug 
and  pitted  early  in  November.  Two  men  will  ac- 
complish more  work  in  gathering,  topping,  and  stor- 
ing Turnips,  Carrots,  or  Beets,  while  the  weather 
is  mild,  than  four  will  do  when  cold  weather  has 
set  in.     Topping  Turnips  or  Carrots  in  an  open  fieldj 


CARROTS.  103 

on  a  frosty  morning,  is  anything  but  pleasant ;  and 
it  is  as  expensive  to  the  owner  as  it  is  disagreeable 
to  the  operator.  On  some  farms  it  is  customary  to 
cart  all  the  roots,  as  soon  as  pulled,  into  the  barn. 
This  adds  expense  and  considerable  extra  labor  to 
the  har\'esting  of  the  crop — loading  in  the  field  and 
unloading  at  the  barn.  The  time  this  requires  may 
all  be  set  down  as  unnecessary  expense.  Every 
hundred  bushels  of  roots  pulled  and  topped  in  the 
field,  Avdiile  the  weather  is  pleasant  and  warm 
enough  to  make  working  out  of  doors  comfortable, 
is  a  saving  in  expense  of  at  least  fifty  per  cent. 
This  we  have  tested  over  and  over  again,  and  always 
with  the  same  result. 

Those  who  have  grown  Carrots  as  a  field-crop, 
know  how  tedious  a  job  it  is  to  dig  them  in  the  Fall. 
It  is  not  only  tedious,  but  if  the  Carrots  have  grown 
full-size,  unless  taken  out  by  careful  workmen,  there 
Avill  be  half  a  dozen  fork  or  spade-handles  broken  in 
getting  out  an  acre  or  tAvo  of  Carrots. 

We  grow  on  our  farm  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  bushels  of  Carrots  every  year  for  market, 
and  we  have  many  years  since  given  up  the  use  of 
the  spade  and  digging-fork  in  taking  out  the  crop. 
We  do  it  with  much  less  manual  labor  and  less  ex- 
pense, l>y  applying  horse-power  instead  of  man- 
power. The  rows  of  Carrots  are  about  two  feet 
apart — wide  enough  for  a  horse  or  a  mule  to  walk 
between.  When  the  proper  time  arrives,  and  other 
things  l)elng  in  readiness,  two  horses  are  hitched  to 
a  lifting  sub-soil  plough,  whi(;h  is  run  alongside  of 
each  row  of  Carrots,  deep  enough  to  lift  and  loosen 


l04:  CARROTS. 

both  earth  and  Carrots  along  the  line  of  the  row. 
This  operation  leaves  every  root  so  that  it  can  be 
pulled  readily  by  hand,  having  to  use  no  more 
strength  than  would  l^e  rec^uired  in  pulling  Strap- 
leaved  Eed-top  Turnips. 

Plough  on  one  side  of  the  piece,  running  the 
"  lifter  "  alongside  of  the  right-hand  row  of  Carrots, 
and  returning  on  the  left.  Tliis  will  bring  the  two 
cuts  of  the  sub-soil  between  two  rows,  leaving  the 
outside  of  these  rows  for  the  horses  to  walk  on  and 
have  firm  footing.  With  a  pair  of  steady  work- 
horses, a  sub-soil  plough,  three  men,  and  a  boy  to 
drive  the  horses,  we  have  frequently  loosened  and 
p)ulled  an  ac^re  of  Carrots  in  a  day.  Occasionally, 
if  the  ground  is  stony,  the  plough  will  miss  loosen- 
ing a  Carrot ;  but  this  will  not  cause  a  detention  of 
any  account  to  those  pullirig  the  roots.  When  pulled, 
the  Carrots  are  thrown  into  small  heaps ;  or,  bet- 
ter still,  three  or  four  rows  are  thrown  into  a  con- 
tinuous row,  with  the  roots  all  in  one  direction. 
This  arrangement  will  facilitate  the  topping,  which 
is  the  slowest  part  of  the  Avork  of  gathering  the 
crop. 

]^y  the  use  of  this  plough,  we  have  taken  out 
and  topped  an  ac^re  of  Carrots,  that  yielded  five 
hundred  bushels,  at  a  total  cost  of  nine  dollars  and 
fifty  cents,  or  rather  less  than  two  cents  a  bushel. 
To  dig  and  top  the  same  number  of  bushels  in  the 
old-fashioned  way,  would  cost,  at  the  lowest  estimate, 
three  times  as  much.  Six  cents  a  bushel  is  usually 
estimated  as  the  cost  of  digging  and  topping  a  bushel 
of   Carrots.     I  mention  all  the  particulars   in  this 


CARROTS.  105 

case,  to  show  the  advantages  of  a  more  general  use 
of  improved  labor-saving  implements,  in  "  trucking  " 
as  well  as  in  more  extended  farming.  Until  such 
tools  are  more  generally  used,  the  lowest  cost  of  pro- 
ducino-  a  bushel  of  Potatoes  or  Carrots  cannot  be 
known.  The  sub-soil  plough,  used  in  getting  out 
these  Carrots,  we  have  had  on  the  farm  ten  years, 
and  have  used  it  more  or  less  every  year  since.  The 
first  cost  of  the  plough  was  thirteen  dollars,  and  in 
a  half-day's  work  loosening  Carrots,  the  amount 
saved  was  more  than  had  been  paid  for  the  plough 
ten  years  ago. 

Wintering. — Like  most  other  kinds  of  roots,  Car- 
rots will  keep  very  well  when  put  into  pits  out  of  doors. 
If  one  has  abundance  of  cellar-room,  it  is  better  to 
store  them  there  until  wanted  ;  but  when  cellar-room, 
is  scarce,  then,  with  care  and  a  little  more  expense, 
they  can  be  kept  safely  out  of  doors  until  iVpril.  In 
choosing  a  situation  for  a  pit,  a  sloping  surface  is 
always  preferable — a  spot  where  there  is  a  good 
natural  fall  for  water.  The  surface  of  such  a  slop- 
ing piece  of  ground  is  simply  levelled  off  six  or 
seven  feet  wide,  and  as  long  as  is  required.  The 
Carrots  are  then  made  into  a  long  pile  six  feet  wide, 
sloping  gradually  on  either  side,  and  coming  to  a 
point  about  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet  high.  Five 
or  six  hundred  bushels  may  be  piled  together  in  this 
way,  if,  wiieii  putting  on  the  coverina:  of  soil,  means 
of  ventilation  are  provided  at  points  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  apart  along  the  top  of  the  pile.  This  is  done 
"by  placing  a  piece  of  tin  or  eai'then  pipe,  with  one 


106  CARROTS. 

end  resting  on  the  Carrots,  the  other  projecting  a 
couple  of  inches  above  the  covering  of  earth.  To 
prevent  the  frost  from  injuring  the  roots  through  the 
pipes,  they  may  be  stuffed  with  hay  before  Winter 
sets  in.  Formerly,  the  practice  among  gardeners 
was  to  put  a  covering  of  hay  or  straw  over  the  roots 
before  putting  on  the  earth.  This,  of  late  years,  has 
been  given  up  as  useless  ;  in  fact,  it  is  found,  by 
experience,  that  all  kinds  of  roots  will  keep  better, 
with  less  risk  of  rotting,  when  earth  is  the  only  cov- 
ering used.  Under  ordinary  circumstances,  two  feet 
in  thickness  of  covering  is  quite  enough  to  protect 
the  roots  from  frost.  It  is  not  a  good  plan  to  put  on 
this  depth  at  once  ;  eight  inches  will  be  sufficient 
when  first  pitted,  and  until  the  weather  grows  colder. 
All  kinds  of  roots  should  be  covered  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible after  being  topped.  If  left  exposed  a  day  or 
two,  either  in  small  heaps  in  the  field,  or  in  a  large 
pile,  the  shrinking  from  evaporation  amounts  to  con- 
siderable— enough,  at  least,  to  call  the  attention  of 
growers  to  the  fact. 

It  is  well,  perhaps,  to  state,  in  this  connection, 
that  those  who  grow  Carrots  as  a  field  or  garden- 
crop  should  not  neglect  to  save,  at  the  time  of  gath- 
ering the  crop,  some  of  the  l^est-formed  and  largest- 
sized  roots  for  seed.  Fresh  Carrot-seed,  true  to  name, 
is  all-important  for  those  who  grow  Carrots  either 
for  pleasure  or  profit. 

In  topping  seed  Carrots,  it  is  not  well  to  cut  as 
close  to  the  crown  of  the  Carrot  as  is  customary  with 
the  main  crop. 


CARROTS.  107 

The  directions  given  for  keeping  Carrots  out  of 
doors  are  equally  applicable  to  Beets,  Turnips,  and 
Parsnips. 

AVith  the  last-mentioned,  when  intended  for 
market,  the  pile  sIkjuM  be  made  smaller  —  not 
more  than  five  feet  wide  and  three  feet  high.  Par- 
snips, put  together  for  A\^inter  use  in  larger  heaps, 
change  color,  becoming  a  straw-yellow.  This  will 
injure  the  sale  sometimes,  making  a  difference  of 
from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  a  barrel.  In  fact,  yel- 
low Parsnips  find  no  purchasers  as  long  as  there  are 
any  white  ones  in  market. 

In  garden-culture,  Carrots  may  be  planted  closer 
together,  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  between  the  rows, 
and  thinned  out  to  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  If  wanted  for  Summer  use,  they  must  be  sown 
early  in  April.  Two  ounces  of  seed  will  be  enough 
to  sow  for  family  use. 

Varieties. — There  are  but  few  varieties  worthy 
of  cultivation,  either  for  home  consumption  or  mar- 
ket use. 

Early  Horn  is  a  variety  sometimes  grown  by 
market-gardeners,  to  sell  by  the  bunch  in  July.  The 
root  never  attains  much  size,  and  is  therefore  only 
used  for  this  purpose. 

Long  Orange  is  the  best  variety  for  the  main 
crop,  both  for  field  and  garden-culture.  When 
planted  on  good  soil,  it  has  a  long,  smooth  root, 
Orange  color,  and  of  good  cpiality.  The  roots  will 
average  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  length. 

Bliss'  Improved  Long  Orange  resembles  the 
above.     The  only  difference  is,  that  the  color  U 


108 


CARDOON. 

darker  and  the  roots  are  soiiiewliat 
smoother  and  longer  than  the  Long 
Orange. 

White  Belgium  grows  out  of 
the  ground  like  a  long  Beet.  It  is 
nearly  Avhite,  and  yields  more  to 
the  acre  than  any  other  kind  of 
Carrot  we  have  grown  ;  but  it  does 
not  sell  readily  in  market. 


CARDOON. 

Cynara  cardunculus. 
This  vegetable,  in  appearance, 
resembles  the  Globe  Artichoke, 
but,  with  good  treatment,  it  will 
grow  taller  than  the  Artichoke.  It 
is  seldom  found  in  the  kitchen-o^ar- 
dens  of  tliis  country,  although, 
when  carefully  grown  and  blanch- 
ed, the  stocks  make  pleasant  sal- 
ads. They  are  also  used  in  soups 
and  stews  ;  but,  for  either  purpose, 
the  Cardoon  is  very  much  inferior 
to  Celery. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
May,  in  drills  an  inch  deep  and 
three  feet  apart.  When  the  plants  are  well  above 
ground,  they  should  be  thinned  out  to  twenty  inches 
apart  in  the  row,  and  the  soil  kept  loose  and  free 
from  weeds.  In  October,  the  leaves  should  be  drawn 
together  and  fastened  by  hay-bands,  and  the  plants 
earthed  up  the  same  as  Celery.     The  Cardoon   can 


LONG  OKANGE. 


CAtTLlFLOWER.  109 

be  kept  in  the  same  way  as  Celery  through  the  Win- 
ter. One  ounce  of  seed  will  give  five  to  six  hundred 
plants. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

JBrassica  oleracea  hotrytis. 

The  Cauliflower  is  so  closely  allied  to  the  Broc- 
coli, that  tlie  culture  recommended  for  the  one  will 
answer  in  every  respect  for  the  other.  We  usually 
grow  the  Cauliflower  as  a  Spring  crop,  and  the  Broc- 
coli for  a  Fall  crop.  AVhen  the  Cauliflower  succeeds, 
it  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops  grown  by  the 
market-gardener ;  and  the  private  gardener,  who  is 
successful  with  it,  gives  unusual  satisfaction  to  his 
employer.  Cauliflowers  rarely  sell  for  less  than 
fifteen  dollars  per  liundred,  and,  very  often,  welh 
formed  heads  sell  freely  at  eighteen  or  twenty  dol- 
lars per  hundred  by  the  quantity. 

Our  method  is,  to  sow  the  seed  about  the  10th  of 
September  (one  ounce  will  give  three  thousand  five 
hundred  plants),  and  in  four  or  five  weeks  prick  the 
plants  into  cold  frames,  five  or  six  hundred  to  a  sash. 
These  frames  are  covered  with  sashes  durino-  the 
Winter,  which  are  opened  on  mild  days  to  give  air, 
and  removed  as  the  weather  grows  warm  towards 
Spring.  The  seed  may  also  be  sown,  in  February, 
in  a  hot-bed,  and  transplanted  once  or  twice  before 
the  final  planting  in  the  field.  AYe  have  always  suc- 
ceeded better  with  cold-frame  plants  for  Cauliflower. 

There  is  no  use  in  attempting  to  grow  Cauli- 
flower, witli  any  hope  of  success,  either  in  the  gar- 
den or  field,  on  a  poorly- worked  or  poorly-manured 


110  CAULIFLOWER. 

ground.  There  should  be  plenty  of  well-rotted  horse- 
manure  ploughed  under,  at  least  eighty  two-horse 
loads  to  the  acre,  and  then  a  slight  top-dressing,  two 
or  three  hundred  pounds  of  Peruvian  guano  or  finely- 
ground  bone  spread  broadcast  before  planting,  or  at 
the  first  hoeing  around  the  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  wintered  in  a  cold  frame, 
they  may  be  set  in  the  open  ground  early  in  April, 
and  the  heads  will  be  well  formed  before  the  hot 
weather  in  July.  With  late  Spring  planting  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  get  Cauliflowers  to  form  any 
heads.  The  flowers  will  "  button,"  and,  in  eight 
cases  out  of  ten,  the  crop  will  not  cover  expenses. 
Two  years  ago  we  planted  twelve  hundred  in  a  piece 
of  rich  ground  on -the  15th  of  May  ;  they  were  a 
total  failure,  not  producing  ten  good  heads. 

For  a  Fall  crop,  the  seed  may  be  sown  at  the 
same  time  as  for  Winter  Cabbage,  and  planted  in 
the  field  at  tlie  same  distance  apart,  about  the  mid- 
dle of  July. 

The  early  kinds  may  be  set  closer  together,  two 
feet  apart  each  way.  When  a  crop  succeeds,  it  will 
bring  from  seven  hundred  to  one  thousand  dollars  on 
an  acre. 

The  number  of  varieties  cultivated  is  quite  lim- 
ited. If  the  private  gardener  will  select,  for  plant- 
ing in  the  kitchen-garden,  such  kinds  as  are  popular 
with  market-gardeners,  he  will  be  sure  to  make  no 
mistake 

Early  Paris  is  one  of  the  reliable  varieties,  and 
a  favorite  Avith  cultivators.  Under  good  treatment, 
it  forms  solid  heads,  that  are,  when  cooked,  tender 


CELERY.  Ill 

and  delicate  in  quality.  A\nien  grown  on  a  rich  soil, 
the  leaves  spread  more  than  some  of  the  other  kinds. 

Eakly  Ekfurt  is  an  earlier  variety,  ripening  a 
few  days  in  advance  of  the  Early  Paris.  It  does 
not  require  so  much  room,  as  it  is  of  dwarfish  habits, 
but  it  forms  a  solid  white  head  of  first-rate  quality. 

Half-Early  Paris  is  a  popular  kind,  maturing 
later  than  either  of  the  above.  We  have  grown  it 
as  a  late  variety,  with  good  success,  both  in  the  gar- 
den and  field. 

Waxcuerex  is  better  suited  for  late  than  for 
early  planting.  The  heads  are  generally  uniform  in 
size  and  compactness,  and  of  very  good  quality. 

The  same  kinds  of  insects  that  injure  Cabbage 
also  damage  Cauliflower.  Last  season  this  crop  suf- 
fered more  from  the  ravages  of  the  Pieris  rapce 
than  the  late  Cabbages.  I  have  seen  thousands  of 
half-grown  Cauliflowers  rendered  worthless  from 
duh-root.  The  cut-worm  Agrotis  devastator  de- 
stroys the  Cauliflower  as  well  as  Cabbage-plants. 
The  best  remedy  is,  to  search  for  them  and  kill  them 
with  the  thumb  and  finger.  We  sa\'ed  twenty  thou- 
sand Cabbages  one  season  by  this  method. 

When  Cauliflowers  are  planted  in  the  open  field 
in  April,  the  crop  will  mature  in  time  to  plant  Celery 
in  July  or  Spinach  in  September. 


CELERY. 

Apium  graveolens. 

Market-gardeners  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York 
always  plant  Celery  as  a  second  crop,  following  Early 


112  CELERY. 

Cabbages,  Onions,  Beets,  or  Potatoes.  The  ground 
is  heavily  manured  in  the  Spring  for  these  crops, 
and,  as  soon  as  they  are  removed  and  marketed  in 
July,  it  is  ploughed  and  ])ut  in  order  for  Celeiy. 
The  surface  is  made  line  and  mellow  by  the  harrow. 
In  case  the  soil  turns  up  rough,  owing  to  heavy  rains 
or  continued  dry  weather,  a  light  roller  run  over  the 
surface  will  facilitate  the  work  and  lessen  the  ex- 
pense of  crushing  the  lumps,  leaving  the  ground 
level  and  smooth,  ready  for  planting.  In  the  small 
kitchen-garden,  the  same  conditions  of  depth  and 
tilth  must  be  brought  about  by  the  use  of  the  dig- 
ging-fork, spade,  and  hand-rake.  If  the  ground  in- 
tended for  Celery  was  not  liberally  manured  in  the 
Spring,  and  doubts  are  entertained  as  to  the  fertil- 
ity of  the  soil,  it  is  well  to  add  a  heavy  dressing  of 
well-rotted  barn-yard  manure,  spread  broadcast,  and 
plough  or  fork  it  under  before  planting.  It  is  a 
waste  of  time  and  money  to  attempt  to  grow  Celery 
on  poor  soil. 

The  old-fashioned  system  of  inaking  deep  trench- 
es with  the  spade,  in  which  to  plant  Celery,  practised 
so  extensively  twelve  or  iifteen  years  ago,  has  been 
abandoned,  of  late,  by  the  progressive  market-gar- 
dener as  a  useless  expense,  w^ithout  a  single  redeem- 
ing  feature.  It  has  been  found,  by  experience,  that 
Celery  will  do  very  much  better  planted  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  same  quality  of  soil,  making  much 
quicker  and  larger  growth,  and  thus  saving  all  that 
unnecessary  labor  and  expense  of  digging  trenches. 
This  was  an  important  move  in  the  right  direction, 
increasing  the  products  of  the  soil  by  a  system  which 


CELERY.  113 

tasks  the  brain  of  the  gardener  as  well  as  his  mnscle ; 
or,  in  other  words,  we  see  physical  strength,  in  a 
properly-managed  market-garden,  becoming  subser- 
vient to  systematic  and  maturely  developed  plans. 

The  time  of  planting  Celery  varies  according  to 
the  disposition  to  be  made  of  the  crop,  from  the 
20th  of  June  to  the  15th  of  August.  Planted  in 
rich  ground  before  the  20th  of  July,  it  will,  under 
favoral)le  circumstances,  be  large  enough  to  be 
banked,  bleached,  and  sold  by  the  latter  part  of 
October  and  through  the  month  of  November. 

Celery  will  succeed  best  when  planted  in  a  deep, 
rich  loam,  which  has  been  well  pulverized  previously. 

Sowing  tue  Seed.— The  seed  of  Celery  should 
be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  in  a  sheltered  border, 
as  early  in  April  as  the  soil  is  dry  enough  to  be 
worked.  Before  sowing,  the  seed-bed  should  have 
a  heavy  dressing  of  well-rotted  barn-yard  manure, 
scattered  evenly  over  the  surface  and  forked  under ; 
then  raked,  removing  any  hard  lumps  of  soil,  stones, 
(fee,  c%c.,  leaving  the  ground  loose  and  finely  pulver- 
ized. Open  shallow  drills  with  the  marker  one  foot 
apart ;  sow  the  seed  thinly  in  the  drills  by  hand,  and 
cover  the  seed  by  raking  the  surface  with  a  wooden 
rake,  drawing  it  in  the  line  of  the  drills.  We  sow 
some  Radish  seed  sparsely  in  the  drills  at  the  time 
of  sowing  the  Celery-seed.  The  Radish  Avill  germi- 
nate in  a  few  days,  showing  the  line  of  the  rows, 
when  a  scuffle-hoe  can  be  used  between  them,  before 
the  weeds  start  to  grow.  If  the  weeds  get  ahead, 
the  labor  will  be  increased  tenfold.  When  the  plants 
are  three  or  four  inches  high,  cut  off  the  tops  ;  this 


114  CELERY. 

can  be  repeated  a  second  time  to  advantage.  It  will 
encourage  a  stocky  growth  of  plants,  that  will  be 
more  uniform  in  size.  Market-gardeners  who  grow 
Celery  in  a  large  way  should,  every  Fall,  at  the  time 
of  digging,  select  some  of  the  best  specimen  stalks 
from  which  to  raise  seed.  By  following  this  plan, 
the  size  and  rpiality  are  improved  each  year,  and 
there  is  no  disappointment  about  poor  seed  not  com- 
ing up. 

On  sandy  soil  it  is  often  advisable  to  run  a  light 
roller  over  tlie  seed-bed  soon  after  the  seed  is  sown. 

Planting. — When  everything  is  m  readiness  for 
planting,  the  garden -line  is  sketched  on  one  side  of 
the  piece,  and  then,  with  the  "  markei- " — the  teeth 
set  at  three  feet  apart  for  the  dwarf  kinds,  or  four 
for  the  larger  growing  sorts — the  lines  are  marked 
out  straight.  There  is  nothing  that  gives  a  more 
careless  appearance  to  a  vegetable- garden  than  crook- 
ed rows  of  Celery. 

It  is  Avell,  just  before  planting,  to  sprinkle  along 
the  lines  of  the  intended  rows  some  wood-ashes,  tine 
bone-dust,  or  superphosphate  ;  either  of  which  should 
be  mixed  with  twice  its  own  bulk  of  soil  before  ap- 
plication. When  applied  in  this  way,  the  young 
plants  get  a  good  start  early  in  the  season — a  point 
of  the  highest  importance  in  growing  Celery  for 
market. 

It  is  better,  under  all  circumstances,  to  select 
damp  or  wet  weather  for  ti-ansplanting.  In  pulling 
the  plants  from  the  seed-bed,  get  them  of  uniform 
size,  so  that  the  growth  in  the  garden  or  field,  under 
good  treatment,  may  be  about  the  same.     Both  roots 


CELERY.  115 

and  leaves  of  Celery  plants  should  be  trimmed  be- 
fore setting  out;  that  is,  the  plants  are  taken  in 
handfuls,  and,  Avith  a  sharp  case-knife,  a  portion  of 
the  roots  is  cut  off,  leaving  about  two  inches  and  a 
half,  and  all  the  outside  leaves  are  cut  off  e\'en  with 
the  top  of  the  heart.  Tliey  are  then  set  firmly  in 
rows,  with  the  dibble,  from  five  to  six  inches  apart, 
and  never  any  deeper  than  they  were  in  the  seed- 
bed. The  earth  on  either  side  of  the  plants  should 
be  pressed  with  the  feet ;  this  will,  in  a  measure, 
prevent  its  drying  out.  If  the  weather  should  set  in 
very  dry  and  hot  immediately  after  planting,  nail 
two  boards  together,  the  end-view  of  which  w^ould 
resemble  the  letter  A,  and  place  this  structure  over 
the  i^lants  in  the  row.  It  will  keep  the  ground  moist 
enough  to  start  them  growing  in  a  few  days. 

There  will  be  no  occasion  for  this  co\'ering  if  the 
ground  is  moist  at  the  time  of  planting, "or  the 
weather  keeps  cloudy  for  a  short  time.  This  pre- 
caution is  oidy  put  in  practice  in  case  of  continued 
dry  weather,  which  ahvays  more  or  less  injures  Cel- 
ery when  recently  trans])lanted. 

During  the  early  stages  of  growth,  the  only  thing 
to  be  done  is  to  keep  the  spaces  between  the  rows 
disturbed  fi-equently.  In  field-culture  this  can  be 
done  at  a  much  less  expense  by  horse  than  by  man- 
power. In  garden  culture,  the  hand-hoe  and  rake 
are  the  only  tools  required  for  a  month  or  six  weeks 
after  planting.  AVhen  the  Celery  is  twelve  or  fif- 
teen inches  long,  the  earth  on  either  side  of  the  row 
should  be  loosened  two  or  three  inches  deep  with  a 
cultivator,  sub-soil  plough,  or  hand-hoe.     It  is  then 


116  CELERY. 

ready  for  "  handling,"  which  should  be  done  with 
care. 

This  operation  is  simple,  but  requires  some  prac- 
tice before  much  headway  can  he  made.  The  oper- 
ator gets  down  on  his  knees,  gathers  all  the  leaves 
of  each  stalk  up,  and,  while  holding  them  in  posi- 
tion with  one  hand,  presses  the  loosened  earth  against 
the  stalk  with  the  other  ;  then  vice-versd,  going  in 
this  way  the  length  of  the  row,  and  each  row  in 
turn.  AVhen  this  is  finished,  the  earth  is  thrown 
toward  the  Celery  from  both  sides  with  a  one-horse 
plough.  A  man  usually  follows  with  a  hand-hoe  and 
draws  the  earth  still  closer  to  the  Celery,  where  the 
plough  missed  or  failed  to  do  the  work  well.  In  the 
garden,  the  hoe  is  made  use  of  instead  of  the  plougli. 
As  fast  as  the  Celery  grows,  the  earth  is  drawn  up 
by  men  with  hoes,  until  the  time  for  banking,  in 
order  to  make  the  hearts  white  ;  or  "  bleaching,"  as 
it  is  usually  termed  by  gardeners. 

This  part  of  the  work  is  more  tedious,  and,  to  do 
it  well,  calls  for  a  person  who  knows  how  to  handle 
the  spade.  A  man  stands  on  either  side  of  the  same 
row,  and,  commencing  about  ten  or  twelve  inches 
from  the  Celery,  raises  a  straight  l)ank  of  earth, 
covering  all  the  Celery  except  three  or  four  inches 
of  the  ends  of  the  longest  leaves.  Each  man  en- 
deavors to  build  his  side  firmly,  and  straight  up  and 
down.  It  is  usually  a  matter  of  considerable  pride 
among  practical  gardeners,  their  ability  to  bank  Cel- 
ery well. 

This  walling  up  the  Celery  begins  about  the  mid- 
dle of  September,  and,  when  it  is  grown  on  a  large 


CELERY  117 

scale,  as  it  is  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York,  this  bank- 
ing continnes  nntil  cold  weather — especially  for  all 
that  is  intended  for  sale  dnring  the  Fall  or  early 
Winter.  The  poi'tion  reserved  for  sale  after  the 
holidays  is  not  generally  banked  in  tlie  way  de- 
scribed, l)nt  is  pnt  hito  Winter  cpiarters,  Avhere  the 
same  resnlts  are  bronght  abont.  The  only  difference 
is  in  the  length  of  time  reqnired.  In  this  respect 
the  Fall  l)anking  has  the  advantage.  In  drawing 
earth  toward  the  Celery,  and  in  banking  with  the 
spade,  it  is  very  important  that  the  hearts  shonld  be 
kept  stiaiglit,  not  broken,  nor  in  any  way  injnred  by 
carelessness. 

To  Keep  Celery  in  Winter. — Formerly  there 
was  a  very  large  percentage  of  loss  in  trying  to  keep 
Celery  during  the  Winter.  The  hearts  are  very  ten- 
der, and  rot  easily  when  bnried  in  the  old-fashioned 
style.  Of  late,  gardeners  in  this  neighborhood  have 
hit  upon  a  much  better  and  more  simple  method, 
of  which  the  [private  gardener  or  farmer  may  avail 
himself  as  readily  as  the  professional  market-gar- 
dener. 

In  the  Middle  States,  Celery  is  usually  taken  up 
fi-om  the  1st  to  the  20th  of  November.  To  facilitate 
the  removal  of  the  earth  from  the  rows,  we  make 
use  of  a  krge-sized  single  plough,  and  then,  by  fol- 
lowing with  a  lifting  sub-soil,  the  stalks  are  all 
loosened  without  the  aid  of  the  spade.  The  stalks 
are  then  pulled  up,  some  of  the  earth  shaken  from 
the  roots,  and  left  in  heaps  along  the  row.  In  the 
meantime  a  trench  is  opened  in  some  convenient 
spot,  ten  inches  wide,  the  depth  to  correspond  with 
6* 


118  CELERY. 

the  length  of  the  Celery.  Some  loose  earth  is  left 
on  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  which  it  is  always  bet- 
ter to  make  Avhere  there  is  a  natural  fall  for  the 
water  to  run  off,  especially  on  clay  ground.  The 
Celery  is  carried  to  the  edge  of  the  trench,  and,  be- 
ginning at  the  upper  or  higher  end,  is  placed  in  an 
upright  position,  closely  packed  together,  until  the 
whole  trench  is  tilled.  As  the  weather  grows  colder 
the  earth  is  drawn  from  either  side  toward  the  Cel- 
ery, and  when  the  covering  is  entirely  finished,  it 
looks  like  a  single  row  of  Celery  banked  up. 

The  Celery-tops  should  be  dry  when  packed  away 
in  trenches,  otherwise  it  may  rot  badly.  The  bleach- 
ing process  will  be  hastened  by  pressing  some  fine 
earth  in  along  side  of  the  stalks  at  the  time  of  stow- 
ing the  crop  away.  The  tops  are  preserved  by  cov- 
ering them  with  long  manure,  salt  hay,  or  any  other 
litter,  provided  it  is  put  on  in  sufficient  quantity. 

The  boards  recommended  as  a  protection  for  the 
young  plants  from  the  sun  can  be  made  use  of  for 
this  purpose ;  they  will  be  found  serviceable.  The 
front  of  such  a  pit  or  trench  can  at  all  times  be 
opened  with  but  little  trouble,  even  in  very  cold  or 
inclement  weather. 

This  is  by  far  the  best  method  for  keeping  Celery 
during  the  Winter  with  which  I  am  familiar,  and 
market-gardeners  near  New  York  have  very  gen- 
erally ado])ted  it.  In  case  the  bleaching  goes  on  too 
slowly  in  cold  weather,  it  may  l)e  quickened  by  re- 
moving the  top  covering  and  ])Ouring  a  stream  of 
tepid  water  into  the  trench,  to  moisten  the  roots. 
The  hay,  manure,  or  boards,  should  then  be  imme- 


CELERY.  119 

diately  replaced,  to  prevent  the  frost  from  injuring 
the  leaves  of  the  Celery. 

To  Prepare  Celery  for  Market. — It  is  a  fact 
well  known  to  market-gardeners,  that  each  kind  of 
vegetable,  in  order  to  connnand  the  highest  price, 
must  be  prepared  in  a  certain  way ;  and  if  this 
arbitrary  rule  is  not  strictly  adhered  to,  the  produce 
will  not  bring  half  of  what  it  otherwise  would. 
There  appears  to  be  no  obvious  reason  why  nine 
long  Eadishes  tied  in  a  round  bunch  are  not  as  good 
as  the  same  nine  tied  in  a  flat  one  ;  nor  why  three 
or  four  stalks  of  Celery  made  up  into  a  round  bunch 
are  not  as  j^alatable  and  in  every  way  as  good  as 
when  made  into  a  flat  bunch.  Still,  in  the  one  case, 
they  will  find  ])lenty  of  customers  at  the  best  market 
rates ;  while,  in  the  otlier,  there  is  no  demand,  and 
they  would  not  bring  enough  to  pay  expenses. 

The  methods  in  general  use  for  preparing  certain 
kinds  of  vegetables  for  market,  are  expensive  and 
laborious  to  the  producer.  Talking  on  this  subject, 
a  few  days  ago,  with  a  market-gardener,  he  remarked 
that  it  was  more  trouble  to  prepare  and  market  some 
kinds  of  "  truck  "  than  it  was  to  grow  them,  and  he 
named  Celery  as  an  example.  The  bulk  of  this  crop 
is  sold  during  the  AVinter  months,  and  nearly  all  the 
time  from  the  middle  of  December  to  the  middle 
of  March  is  spent  in  preparing  it  for  market.  The 
stalks  are  first  taken  from  the  trench  to  the  market- 
house.  This  building  is  provided  with  a  stove,  boil- 
ers for  heating  water,  a  large  wash-tub,  and  two 
tables,  arranged  one  on  each  side  of  the  tub.  The 
stalks  are  then  trimmed  by  taking  off  some  of  the 


120  CELERY. 

outside  leaves,  so  as  to  expose  the  heart :  the  root  is 
shaved  with  a  long-bladed  knife,  leaving  four  flat 
sides,  tapering  a  little  toward  the  end  ;  and  the  oper- 
ator cuts  a  narrow  circular  groove  in  about  the  same 
position  on  each  root,  to  facilitate  tying. 

The  stalks,  having  been  sorted  at  the  time  of 
trimming,  are  now  placed  in  the  wash-tub,  and,  with 
plenty  of  warm  water  and  a  scrubbing-brush,  the 
Celery  is  thoroughly  cleansed  and  put  out  on  the 
tables  for  bunching.  This  last  operation  requires 
the  most  skill  and  practice.  A  gardener  wlio  is  ex- 
pert at  bunching  Celery  can  always  command  higher 
wages  on  that  account. 

The  bass  matting,  or  twine,  is  cut  the  proper 
lengths  and  fastened  in  a  convenient  place  near  the 
person  bunching,  who  stands  in  front  of  the  table. 
Three  or  four  stalks  are  selected  for  each  bunch, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  Celery.  These  stalks 
are  arranged  to  the  best  advantage,  and  the  roots 
are  tied  closely  together  Ijy  making  a  single  knot 
around  each  one,  except  the  last,  which  has  a  double 
or  fastening-knot ;  care  being  taken  to  have  the  out- 
side stalks  trimmed  nearly  alike,  so  as  to  make  the 
bunch  symmetrical.  The  tops  and  all  the  small 
stocks  are  made  into  round  bunches,  and  sold  at  a 
low  price  for  soup  Celery. 

A  person  who  is  expert  in  bunching  will  tie  four 
or  five  dozen  an  hour,  day  after  day,  for  weeks  at  a 
time,  working  day  and  night,  I  might  say  ;  for  the 
market-gardener  seldom  gets  through  his  work  in 
"  Celery-time  "  before  9  or  10  o'clock  at  night.  The 
morning  is  usually  devoted  to  getting  in  the  Celery 


CELERY.  121 

from  the  trendies,  and  the  afternoon  and  evening  to 
trimming  and  bunching. 

When  the  day's  work  is  finished,  the  bnnclies  are 
counted  and  carefully  placed  in  chests  made  express- 
ly for  the  purpose,  and  forwarded  to  market. 

Profits. — Under  the  former  laborious  and  crude 
method  of  cultivating  Celery,  there  was  but  little 
profit  attached  to  the  crop.  It  cost,  then,  from  one 
to  one  and  a  half  cents  a  root  to  grow  it ;  this,  with 
the  large  percentage  of  loss  from  rotting  during  the 
Winter,  left  but  a  small  margin  for  profit.  The  plan 
now  in  general  use  among  gardeners  in  New  Jersey 
reduces  the  expense  to  a  half  or  three-quarters  of  a 
cent  a  root ;  and  in  connection  with  this,  by  the  im- 
proved method  for  keeping  it  through  the  Winter, 
the  profits  are  decidedly  increased.  When  Celery 
is  planted  at  the  distances  named,  there  can  be  grown 
on  an  acre  about  twenty-six  thousand  roots.  It  rarely 
happens  that  more  than  twenty  thousand  of  these 
are  of  full  size,  and  worth  two  and  a  half  cents  a 
root,  which  would  give  fi\e  hundred  dollars  for  the 
acre.  The  balance  of  the  small  stocks,  tied  in  round 
bunches  and  sold  at  low  prices,  would  add  twenty  or 
thirty  dollars  to  the  al)Ove  amount. 

This  looks  like  a  large  sum — and  it  would  be,  if 
there  were  no  losses  nor  heavy  expenses  in  produc- 
ing the  crop  ;  but  it  nuist  be  marked  down  as  one 
of  the  most  expensive  and  troublesome  with  which 
the  market-gardener  has  to  deal. 

Varieties. — Among  the  many  changes  that  have 
been  introduced  in  the  culture  of  Celery  for  market, 
there  is  none  more  apparent  than  the  sudden  somer- 


122 


CELERY. 


saiilt  made  bj  gardeners  in  giving  up  the  cultivation 
of  the  tall  growing  kinds  for  the  dwarf  varieties. 
The  latter  have  rapidly  increased  in  favor,  not  only 


WHITE    SOLID. 


with  growers,  hut  also  with  consumers.     The  reasons 
for  making  this  change  are  clearly  practical,  and  no 


CELEEY.  123 

wide-awake  gardener  will  overlook  them.  The  dwarf 
sorts  can  be  planted  more  closely  together,  giving 
several  thousands  more  roots  to  the  acre  than  the 
taller  kinds  ;  besides,  there  is  a  lai-ger  proportion  of 
"  heart "  to  every  stock,  and  the  (piality  is  equally 
good. 

There  are  not  many  vai-ieties  of  Celery  worthy 
of  cultivation,  either  for  market  or  for  family  use 
Of  the  best,  may  be  named  : 

WmTE  Solid. — This  has  long  been  held  as  a  Li 
vorite  tall-growing  kind.  The  hearts,  Avhen  bleachci 
are  white  and  crisp,  and  very  delicate  in  flavor. 

Seymouk's  Superb  groAvs  larger  than  the  Whiti*: 
Solid.  It  is  esteemed  among  gardeners  as  the  mosi 
profitable,  for  market,  of  any  of  the  tall  varieties. 
The  hearts  are  large,  round,  and  solid. 

Incomparable  Dwarf. — This  is  in  all  respects 
the  best  dwarf  variety  for  field  or  garden-culture. 
The  stalks  grow  on  an  average  from  twenty  inches 
to  two  feet  in  leno^th. 

"When  bleached,  the  hearts  are  of  a  dull  white, 
crisp,  very  solid,  and  of  excellent  quality. 

Boston  Market  is  more  extensively  grown  around 
Boston  than  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York.  It  is  a 
dwarf  variety,  producing  a  large  proportion  of 
"  heart "  to  every  stock,  of  \evy  superior  quality, 
and  of  mild  flavor.  It  is  not,  in  my  estimation,  in 
any  way  superior,  as  a  market  variety,  to  the  Incom- 
parable Dwarf. 

There  are  several  sorts  cf  Itcd  Celery,  but  there 
is  so  little  demand  for  them  in  market,  it  hardly  pays 
to  trouble  one's  self  with  theuL      In  the  kitchen- 


124 


CELERY. 


INCOMPARABLE   DWARF. 


CELERIAC.  125 

garden,  where  a  variety  may  be  wanted,  plant  a  few 
of  the 

DwAKF  Crimson. — In  habits  of  growth  it  is  very 
similar  to  the  other  dwarf  kinds,  only  differing  in 
color.  The  hearts  are  crisp,  solid,  and  of  a  dark 
crimson  color. 

For  family  nse,  one  thonsand  plants  will  keep 
the  table  well  snj)})lied  dnring  the  Fall  and  Winter. 
No  garden  shonld  be  considered  complete  without 
a  supply  of  Celery.  One  ounce  of  fresh  seed  will 
give  five  to  six  thousand  plants.  A  couple  of  small 
packages  of  seed,  costing  twelve  cents,  Avill  furnish 
plants  enough — if  they  are  taken  care  of — to  stock 
the  kitchen-garden. 

Growing  the  plants  for  sale  is  a  large  branch  of 
business  in  some  sections^  They  are  usually  worth 
from  three  to  five  dollars  per  thousand  in  lots  of 
from  five  to  ten  thousand. 

Celekiac. — -Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted  Celery,  is 
now  cuUivated  to  a  considerable  extent  by  some 
market-gardeners.  It  is  used  principally  by  Ger- 
mans, wlio  boil  and  slice  the  root  and  then  make  it 
into  a  Salad. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  at  the  same  time  and 
be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  Celery-seed.  When 
transpUinted  into  the  open  ground,  the  rows  may  be 
marked  two  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  set  six  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  It  recpiires  no  earthing-up,  and  on 
this  account,  if  there  was  sufficient  demand  for  it, 
Celeriac  would  be  more  profitable  to  grow  than 
Celery,  as  it  usually  brings  the  same  price  in  mar- 
ket. 


m 


CELERIAC. 


It  is  stored  for  Winter  in  trenches,  the  same  as 
Celery. 


CELERIAC. 


CORN   SALAD.  127 


T  \dei'ia n  a  locusta. 

The  Corn  Sabd,  familiarly  known  in  some  sec- 
tions nnder  the  name  of  P'etticus,  or  Lamb's  Qnarter, 
is  used  for  a  Salad  in  early  Spring,  and  is  cultivated 
in  every  respect  like  Spinach. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  September,  in 
drills,  one  foot  apart  and  half  an  inch  deep.  The 
spaces  between  the  rows  should  be  lioed  once  during 
the  Fall,  and,  as  far  north  as  New  York,  nnilched 
with  salt  hay  or  straw  during  the  Winter.  In  the 
Spring  the  mulch  is  taken  off,  and  the  Corn  Salad 
will  be  ready  for  use  in  April  and  May.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  in  the  Spring,  but  when  grown  in  hot 
weather  the  quality  is  inferior.  Two  ounces  of  seed 
will  be  enough  for  family  use,  and  for  an  acre  it 
will  require  six  pounds. 

The  plants  left  uncut  will  run  up  to  seed  in  the 
Sunnner,  and  any  one  desirous  can  easily  obtain  pure 
seed  in  this  way. 


Lepidium  sati'mmi. 

Cress,  or  Peppergrass,  is  a  hardy  annual,  used  as 
a  Salad  in  this  counti-y.  Owing  to  its  well-known 
tendency  to  run  to  seed,  two  or  three  successive  sow- 
ings should  be  made,  two  weeks  apart.  The  first 
seed  may  be  sown  as  early  in  April  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked. 

Make   drills   one  foot  apart,  and  cover  lightly. 


128  WATEK  CRESS. 

One  ounce  of  seed  will  be  sufficient  for  three  sepa- 
rate sowings.  The  last  one  should  be  made  in  some 
shaded  spot  in  the  garden  ;  as  it  will  do  better,  shel- 
tered from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  in  Summer. 

The  leaves  should  be  cut  for  a  Salad  when  young, 
before  they  become  rough. 

There  are  many  varieties,  but  the  Curi-ed  Cress 
will  be  found  best  for  cultivation. 


WATER-CRESS. 

Sisyinbriu7n  nastwrtiiim, 

Water-Cress  is  a  very  common  aquatic,  creeping 
plant,  found  in  abundance  along  the  edges  of  streams, 
stagnant  ponds,  and  old  water-ditches  in  this  coun- 
try. Quiet,  shallow  water  supplied  from  springs 
affords  the  right  conditions  for  its  growth.  A  few 
years  ago  I  was  in  possession  of  four  or  live  acres 
of  a  fresh-water  swamp,  and  at  least  one  quarter  of 
the  surface  was  covered  with  Water-Cress.  It  will 
succeed  best,  however,  when  the  roots  are  planted 
along  the  edge  of  a  shallow  running  stream,  with  a 
sandy  bottom.  On  a  heavy  clay  bottom,  it  runs  the 
risk  of  being  more  or  less  injured  in  Winter. 

As  it  is  a  hardy  perennial,  when  the  roots  are 
once  started  along  the  nooks  and  corners  of  such  a 
stream,  there  can  be  a  constant  supply  gathered  from 
year  to  year,  for  home  or  market,  according  to  the 
extent  of  the  surface. 

There  is  a  brisk  demand  in  market  for  Water- 
Cress  ;  and  when  it  first  comes,  early  in  the  Spring, 
the  prices  range  from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  per 


CHIVES.  129 

basket  holding  only  three  quarts.  It  would  be  diffi- 
(iult,  indeed,  to  estimate  the  value  of  an  acre,  even 
at  twenty  cents  a  quart. 

Wliat  reaches  the  market  now  is  principally  gath- 
ered from  many  sources  by  Germans,  who,  even  col- 
lecting it  in  this  way,  in  small  lots,  find  it  a  profit- 
able business. 

Water-Cress  comes  into  full  bearing  the  second 
year  from  the  time  of  setting  out  the  roots.  It  can 
be  propagated  and  a  l)ed  started  by  sowing  the  seed 
where  it  is  wanted  to  grow  permanently.  But  this 
method  is  not  as  reliable  as  growing  the  plants  in  a 
seed-bed,  and  then  transplanting  them  along  the  edge 
of  the  water-course,  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart. 
Koots  may  be  taken  up  from  some  stream  or  pond, 
when  found  growing,  to  form  a  new  bed.  In  gath- 
ering it  for  table  use  or  market,  it  should  always  be 
cut,  and  not  pulled;  the  latter  way  disturbs  and 
injures  the  roots.  Two  ounces  of  seed  will  give 
enough  plants  to  suppy  a  large  family. 

There  are  three  well-known  varieties,  but  the 
L.VRGE  Brown-leaved  is  the  best  for  this  climate. 

Water-Cress  is  frequently  served  as  a  breakfast 
Salad.  It  is  very  popular,  having  a  peculiar  pun- 
gent taste,  that  most  people  are  fond  of  in  a  Salad. 

CHIVES,    OR   GIVES. 

Allium  schoenoj)rasum. 

This  is  a  hardy  perennial  bulb— a  species  of 
Onion.  Permanent  beds  of  Chives  are  usually 
found  in  well-stocked  kitchen-gardens.     They  grow 


130  CKEVKIL. 

in  tufts,  the  leaves  reseml3ling  fine  rushes.  Tlie  top« 
are  cut  off  when  green,  to  flavor  soups  and  Salads, 
and  also  to  be  eaten  in  the  raw  state,  the  same  as 
young  Onions.  In  taste  they  are  similar  to  the 
Onion  and  Leek. 

Chives  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  and 
planting  them  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart  each  way, 
in  April.  The  tops  will  soon  begin  to  grow,  and 
they  should  be  cut  off  three  or  four  times  during  the 
season.  A  bed  well  cared  for  w^ill  continue  to  pro- 
duce for  at  least  a  dozen  years. 

CHEVKIL. 

Scandix  cerifolium. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  Chevril  cultivated : 
the  Parsley  and  the  Fern-leaved.  While  the  leaves 
are  young,  they  are  used  in  soups  and  Salads,  to 
which  they  impart  a  pleasant,  aromatic  flavor.  In 
appearance  they  resemble  the  Curled  Parsley. 

Chevril  is  a  hardy  annual,  propagated  from  seed, 
and  succeeds  best  w^hen  sown  on  a  deep,  light,  rich 
soil.  The  drills  should  be  made  one  foot  apart  and 
half  an  inch  deep.  The  seed,  after  being  distributed 
in  these  drills,  should  be  covered  by  rakmg  the  bed 
with  a  wooden  rake,  drawn  in  the  line  of  the  bed. 
It  is  only  good  while  young  ;  so  that,  to  keep  a  sup- 
ply, it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  succession  of  sow- 
ings once  every  two  or  three  weeks,  from  the  middle 
of  April  until  the  1st  of  August. 

The  seed  is  small ;  one  ounce  will  be  enough  to 
sow  for  family  use. 


CHEVRIL.  131 

CHEVRIL,    TURNIP-ROOTED. 

ChcBrophyllum  hulhosiim. 

This  is  a  comparatively  new  vegetable,  and  in  its 
habits  is  similar  to  the  common  Parsnip.  Dnring 
the  excitement  abont  the  Potato-rot  in  Europe,  it 
was  recommended  as  a  substitute  for  the  Potato,  and 
as  being  fully  equal  to  it  in  quality.  In  shape  it 
resembles  the  Parsnip.  When  boiled,  it  is  dry, 
white,  and  farinaceous,  but  it  tastes  more  like  boiled 
Chestnuts  than  Potatoes. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  in  April,  and  cul- 
tivated like  Parsnips  or  Carrots.  On  well-manured 
ground  it  will  yield  five  or  six  tons  to  the  acre.  The 
roots  may  l^e  left  in  the  ground  during  Winter,  or 
harvested  and  kept  in  pits,  or  in  a  root-cellar,  until 
the  following  Spring. 

CORN. 

Zea  mays. 

Sweet  Com  is  generally  cultivated  as  a  garden 
vegetable ;  but  in  some  districts,  where  land  is  not 
very  expensive,  it  is  grown  on  a  large  scale  for  mar- 
ket. New  Jersey  and  Long  Island  farmers  raise 
annually  hundreds  of  acres  for  the  New  York  mar- 
ket ;  and,  taking  one  yeaT  with  another.  Sweet  Corn 
will  pay  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  dollars 
per  acre.  The  profits  fi'om  this  crop  are  not  large, 
but  the  demand  is  usually  good,  and  it  will  pay  the 
grower  about  double  what  common  field  Corn  will, 
with  the  same  labor  and  expense  for  manure. 


132  CORN. 

By  proper  management  in  the  times  of  planting, 
a  constant  supply  can  easily  be  had  from  July  until 
frost.  For  home  use,  by  planting  four  different 
times,  three  Aveeks  apart,  commencing  on  the  1st  of 
May,  fresh  Green  Corn,  for  boiling,  can  be  furnished 
daily  from  the  garden. 

In  growing  Sweet  Corn  for  market,  farmers 
usually  make  two  plantings  ;  the  first  one,  for  the 
early  crop,  which  should  be  planted  four  feet  apart 
each  way,  about  the  1st  of  May,  in  case  the  weather 
is  settled.  A  well-worked  sandy  loam  is  preferal^le 
for  the  first  crop,  because  such  kind  of  soil  can  be 
planted  earlier,  and,  consecpiently,  the  corn  will  be 
ready  for  market  sooner.  Earliness  is  very  import- 
ant to  those  who  grow  corn  for  market.  When  it 
first  comes,  it  will  bring  two  to  three  dollars  per 
hundred  ears.  As  the  season  advances  and  the  sup- 
ply is  greater,  prices  fall  to  from  seventy -hve  cents 
to  one  dollar  per  hundred  ears. 

Before  planting,  the  ground  should  l:>e  ploughed 
and  harrowed  once  or  twice,  marked  out  4x4,  and 
some  well-rotted  manure  or  other  compost  applied  in 
the  hill,  at  the  rate  of  ten  or  twelve  two-horse  loads 
to  the  acre. 

The  corn  is  then  dropped  and  covered,  putting 
five  kernels  to  each  hill.  At  the  first  hoeing,  only 
three  stocks  should  be  left  growing  in  a  hill.  The 
culture  between  the  rows  is  done  with  a  horse-culti- 
vator, running  often  enough  to  keep  down  the  weeds 
and  to  loosen  the  surface.  When  the  Corn  is  planted 
early  in  May,  the  crop  will  be  marketed  by  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  in  time  to  sow  Yellow  Stone  or  Strap- 


CORN. 


133 


leaved  Eed-top  Turnip.  An  application  of  three  or 
four  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre  of  fine  bone-dust  or 
superphosphate,  at  the  first  hoeing,  will  forward  the 
date  of  ripening. 

The  second  croi),  intended  for  a  late  market,  may 
be  planted  any  time  from  the  middle  of  June  to  the 
1st  of  July,  according  to  the  locality. 

Green  Corn  always  rises  in  price  again  towards 
the  close  of  the  season.  Growers  know  this  fact,  and 
try  to  avail  themselves  of  it  by  planting  late  ;  but 
sometimes  an  early  frost  interferes  with  their  plans. 


nOWE'S  HORSE -IIOE. 

The  kinds  generally  grown  are  the  following : 
Darling's  Extra  Early  is  a  popular,  early  mar- 
ket variety.     The  ears  are  not  large,  but  close,  well- 
formed,  and  very  sweet. 

Early  Dwarf  Sugar  is  a  good  variety  for  the 
garden.  The  stock  is  small,  not  moi-e  than  three  feet 
high,  the  ears  medium-sized,  and  the  kernels  very 
sweet.  It  may  be  planted  closer  than  the  taller  kinds ; 
3x3  will  be  far  enough  apart. 
T 


134 


CORN. 


Mammoth  Sweet  is  a  large  late  variety,  white 
cob,  and  large,  well-formed  ears,  sixteen  rows. 

Farmers'  Club  Sweet  is  a  good  variety  for  either 


BOLL  WORM. 

garden-culture  or  market.  It 
matures  in  about  seventy  days 
from  the  time  of  planting.  The 
quality  is  good.  It  has  eight 
rows,  large  kernels,  and  boils 
tender. 

Stowell's  Evergreen  is 
without  doubt  the  hest  late  va- 
riety on  the  list.  The  stocks 
will  produce  from  three  to  five 
ears  each.  The  ears  are  of  a 
large  size,  the  kernels  deep,  fre- 
quently irregular,  and  very  ten- 
der and  sweet  wdien  boiled. 
This  variety  will  remain  in  a 
green    state    longer    than    any 

other  kind  of  Sweet  Corn  that  we  have  grown. 

The   Evergreen   is  so  liable  to  mix  with  other 

varieties  of  Corn,  that  it  is  difiicult  to  keep  it  pure. 


MAMMOTH  SWEET. 


CUCUMBEES.  135 

One  quart  of  seed — of  two  or  more  of  the  kinds 
enumerated — planted  in  equal  parts  at  different  times, 
will  be  sufficient  for  a  laro-e  family. 

The  late  crop  of  Sweet  Corn  last  year  was  seri- 
ously injured  by  the  Southern  "  Boll  Worm  "  {Helio- 
this  armigera).  It  infested  almost  every  ear,  eating 
the  ends,  or  one  or  two  rows  of  kernels.  When  full- 
grown,  this  worm  is  about  an  inch  in  length,  of  a 
dark-brown  color,  with  a  light  yellow  stripe  the 
length  of  the  body  on  either  side.  The  only  remedy 
that  we  know  of,  is  to  make  small  fires  near  the  corn- 
patch,  in  the  evening,  to  attract  the  moths,  and  in 
this  way  destroy  them  before  laying  their  eggs. 

CUCUMBER. 

Cucumis  sativus. 

The  Cucumber  is  a  tender  annual.  It  is  very 
extensively  cultivated.  Early  in  the  season  it  is  cut 
into  slices  for  a  Salad,  and  later  it  is  made  into 
Pickles  ;  in  both  ways  it  is  very  popular  among  all 
classes.  When  cut  into  quarters  lengthwise,  and  tied 
in  bunches  and  boiled,  they  make  a  good  substitute 
for  Asparagus. 

Market-gardeners  grow  the  Cucumber  on  a  large 
scale,  both  under  glass  and  in  the  open  field.  When 
properly  managed,  it  will  usually  pay  a  handsome 
profit.  Early  in  the  season  the  demand  is  good  and 
prices  high  ;  but,  as  with  most  other  vegetables  culti- 
vated for  market,  earliness  is  all-important.  Later 
in  the  Summer  the  demand  falls  off,  the  supply  is 
large,  and  the  prices  are  very  low, 


136 


CUCUMBERS. 


The  Cucumber  canuot  be  planted  out  of  doors 
with  any  safety  until  May,  when  the  weather  is  set- 
tled and  the  ground  is  warm.  To  gain  time,  garden- 
ers sow  the  seed  in  moderate  hot-beds,  from  the  1st  to 
the  10th  of  April,  either  in  rows  three  inches  apart, 
or  in  thumb-pots,  putting  three  or  four  seeds  to  each 
pot.  The  seed  will  sprout  in  a  week  from  the  time 
of  planting,  and  then  the  plants  shoidd  be  aired 
freely  every  day,  to  prevent  them  from  growing  too 
spindling.  Early  in  May  the  ground  should  be  pre 
pared  in  the  usual  way.  The  more  thoroughly  pul- 
verized the  soil,  the  better  will  the  result  be  in  the 
crop  of  Cucumbers.  The  ground  should  be  marked 
out  five  feet  each  way,  and  at  each  intersection  a  hole 
made  with  a  spade.  Into  each  of  these 
holes  a  forkful  of  well-rotted  manure 
should  be  put,  and  then  fine  soil  drawn 
over  this  manure,  forming  a  hill  two 
or  three  inches  above  the  level  of  the  sm*- 
face,  and  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  diam- 
eter. 

The  plants  in  the  frames  by  this  time 
will  have  three  or  four  rough  leaves,  and 
will  be  fully  ready  to  transplant  to  the 
hills.  This  should  be  done  in  cloudy  or 
damp  weather,  and  always  in  the  after- 
noon. The  plants  should  be  taken  up  with 
considerable  care,  so  as  not  to  disturb  the 
roots,  and  three  of  them  set  in  each  hill. 
This  will  take  a  few  more  than  five  tliou- 
sand  plants  to  the  acre,  and  they  can  be 
grown  in  twelve  or  fifteen  sashes  of  3x6. 


CTJCtJMBEB.  187 

For  garden-culture,  the  seed  is  usually  sown  in 
the  hills  early  in  May,  putting  eight  or  ten  seeds  in 
each  hill.  The  "  striped  bug  "  {Coreits  tristis)  often 
destroys  the  young  plants  just  as  they  appear  above 
the  ground.  To  get  rid  of  these  very  troublesome 
little  pests,  we  sprinkle  the  surface  of  the  hills  and 
the  leaves  of  the  plants  with  tine  flour  of  bone  once 
every  two  days.  If  this  does  not  drive  the  bugs  off 
we  water  the  vines  with  the  solution  of  tobacco,  &c. 
(recommended  for  Cabbage  plants),  early  in  the 
morning,  and  then,  innuediately  after,  dust  the  plants 
with  the  bone  or  superphosphate. 

As  fast  as  the  young  vines  grow,  the  earth  should 
be  drawn  around  the  stems,  for  the  bugs  will  destroy 
these  by  perforating  them. 

When  the  Cucumbers  are  started  in  a  hot-bed, 
the  vines  are  strong  enough,  when  ti'ansplanted  to 
the  open  field,  to  resist  the  attack  of  the  bugs. 
When  the  vines  begin  to  run,  by  pinching  off  the 
ends  at  the  third  joint,  they  will  branch  nearer  the 
hill,  forming  blossoms  and  Cucumbers  earlier  than 
they  otherwise  would.  If  there  are  no  drawbacks, 
an  acre  of  Cucumbers — the  plants  started  under 
glass — will  yield  fi-om  three  hundred  to  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars  an  acre.  Before  Cucumbers 
were  grown  so  extensively  at  Charleston  and  Nor- 
folk, the  profits  were  nnich  larger  than  they  are  now. 
On  Long  Island,  and  in  some  parts  of  Xew  Jersey 
and  of  Westchester  County,  N.  Y.,  Cucumbers  are 
grown  in  large  quantities  for  pickling.  For  this  pur- 
pose the  culture  is  somewhat  different ;  the  ground 
is  ploughed  once  or  tmce  in  the  Spring,  and  any 


1^8  CtJCUMSER. 

time  from  tlie  middle  of  June  to  tlie  10th  of  July 
the  field  is  furrowed  out  five  feet  apart.  The  ma- 
nm-e  is  strewn  along  these  f urro^^'s,  and  then  two  fur- 
rows from  either  side  are  thrown  together.  The  top 
of  the  ridge  is  levelled  at  intervals,  four  or  five  feet 
apart,  and  then  the  seed  is  put  in.  A  cultivator  is 
run  frequently  between  the  rows,  but  the  work 
around  the  hills  requires  the  hand-hoe.     By  pinching 

III  the  vines  at  the  third  joint,  as  mentioned 
above,  the  crop  will  be  increased.  The 
Cucumbers  are  gathered  every  day  and  sent 
to  market.  A  large  grower  on  Long  Island 
informed  me  that  his  profits  average  fi'om 
one  hundred  and  twenty -five  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars  per  acre ;  when 
grown  by  contract,  at  one  dollar  and  seven- 
ty-five cents  per  thousand. 

Since  the  close  of  the  war,  the  Cucum- 
ber is  extensively  grown  for  Northern  mar- 
kets around  Norfolk,  Va.,  and  Charleston, 
I      S.  C.      The  difference  in   climate  affords 
\[      special  advantages  for  the  cultivation  of 
"sT      j\  this  crop,  for  profit,  at  the  South.     But  at 
—  Charleston,  what  is  gained  by  the  climate  is 

thrown  away  by  the  careless  manner  m 
which  most  of  the  Cucumbers  coming  from  that  point 
are  gathered  and  packed.  On  reaching  New  York, 
they  are  too  large,  over-ripe,  and  yellow,  and  they 
have  to  be  sold  at  very  low  prices. 

If  the  Southern  gardeners  would  adopt  the  same 
method — starting  the  young  plants  under  glass,  or 
have  small  wooden  boxes,  with  covers  of  glass,  to 


CTjcmrBER.  139 

protect  against  late  frosts — that  the  Northern  garden- 
ers do,  Cucumbers  would  be  a  protitable  crop,  very 
much  more  so  than  it  is  at  present. 

Charleston  Cucumbers,  that  reach  New  York  in 
good  order  in  May,  bring  from  seven  to  eight  dollars 
per  crate,  holding  about  one  hundred  Cucumbers. 
In  June  the  price  falls  to  seventy -live  cents  or  one 
dollar  a  box  of  the  same  (piantity  ;  and  still  later 
there  is  no  demand  at  all  for  Southern  Cucumbers. 
Growers  near  Charleston  do  not  realize  nov/,  in  a 
favorable  season,  more  than  two  to  three  hundred 
dollars  per  acre,  of  which  about  one-lialf  is  profit. 
I  know,  however,  of  one  instance  when  sixteen  hun- 
dred dollars  was  made  from  a  single  acre  of  Cucum- 
bers grown  in  the  neighborhood  of  Charleston  and 
sold  in  New  York. 

Late  fi-osts  frequently  injure  the  young  vines.  In 
1868  some  friends  in  James'  Island  had  two-thirds  of 
their  vines  killed  by  a  frost  on  the  3d  of  April,  but, 
with  the  small  boxes  spoken  of,  the  vines  would  have 
been  saved.  In  field-culture  the  spaces  between  the 
rows  should  be  thoroughly  cultivated  before  the  vines 
begin  to  run,  and  no  weeds  nor  grass  allowed  to  get 
possession  of  tlie  ground. 

A  dozen  and  a  half  of  hills,  well-managed  in  the 
garden,  will  keep  the  family  table  well  supplied  dur- 
ing the  season.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  that 
number  of  hills.  It  is  better  to  plant  plenty  of  seed, 
for  the  ''striped  hug^^  may  destroy  some;  and  when 
the  vines  begin  to  run,  all  but  three  plants  to  a.  hill 
may  be  pulled  up. 


140 


CirCUMBEE. 


The  most  reliable  and  popular  yarieties  for  field 
or  garden-culture  are  the  followinij^ : 

Early  Russian. — This  is  one  of  the  earliest  for 
the  garden.  The  Cucumbers  are  small,  but  tender, 
and  of  good  cpiality. 

Early  Frame  is  one  of  the  standard,  well-known 
varieties,  grown  widely  for  home  use,  and  also  for 
market.  It  is  larger  and  smoother  than  the  Early 
Russian,  and  a  few  days  later. 

White  Spine  is  the  most  popular  kind  among 
gardeners,  either  for  forcing  or  out  of  door  culture. 
It  grows  larger  than  the  Frame,  uniformly  straight, 


WHITE    spine,  • 

with  more  white  spines.  The  flavor  is  good,  flesh 
crisp,  and  it  will  keep  better  than  any  other  variety 
grown  for  market. 

Long  Green  Prickly  is  one  of  the  long-growing 
sorts.  When  full-grown,  it  will  average  twehe  inch- 
es in  length.  The  flesh  is  firm  and  brittle.  It  is 
only  grown  for  home  use  or  for  pickles. 


LONG   GREBTN  PRICKLY. 


Kone  of  the  long-growing  kinds  of  Cucumbers 


CUCtJMBER.  14:1 

are  favorites  in  market,  although  many  of  them  are 
of  fine  quality. 

Gherkin,  or  A¥est  Indian,  is  a  small,  oval- 
shaped,  prickly  Cucumber,  used  exclusively  for 
pickles.  It  is  a  late  variety.  It  does  not  grow  long- 
er than  two  or  three  inches.  It  is  full  of  seeds.  The 
vines  are  rank  growers,  and  need  plenty  of  room. 

Full  directions  for  forcing  Cucumbers  under  glass 
will  be  found  under  the  headings  ''  Hot-Beds  "  and 
"  Forcing-Houses,"  in  another  part  of  this  work. 
Also  detailed  accounts  about  the  expense  of  con- 
structing such  houses  as  are  now  being  built  by  gar- 
deners near  New  York,  and  other  large  Northern 
cities. 


7* 


CHAPTEK  YI. 

EGG   PLANT. 

Solanuni  melongena. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  Africa  and  Tropical 
America.  In  some  sections  it  is  known  as  Quince 
Squash.  It  is  very  generally  cultivated  in  this  coun- 
try, and  highly  esteemed  for  culinary  purposes. 

Egg  Plants  are  not  grown  in  large  quantities  by 
our  market-gardeners,  but  they  usually  pay  hand- 
somely to  the  extent  that  it  is  safe  to  grow  them  for 
market.  Those  wlio  are  engaged  largely  in  this 
branch  of  industry,  and  favorably  situated,  seldom 
plant  more  than  an  acre  of  Egg  Plants  ;  it  would  be 
considered  a  large  piece  of  ground  to  devote  to  this 
vegetable. 

The  Egg  Plant  is  a  tender  annual,  more  difficult 
to  start  in  the  Spring  than  any  other  kind  of  vege- 
table we  grow.  It  requires  more  bottom-heat,  and 
for  a  lono^er  time,  than  the  other  kinds  of  seeds  that 
are  started  in  hot-beds. 

We  sow  the  seed  in  drills,  three  inches  apart,  in 
hot-beds,  from  the  16th  to  the  20th  of  March,  and, 
when  the  plants  are  two  inches  high,  transplant  them 
into  another  bed,  two  inches  apart  each  way.  Both 
in   the   seed-bed   and   transplanting-bed   the    sashes 


TEGG   PLANTS. 


143 


should  be  protected  with  straw  mats  at  night,  until 
the  weather  is  settled  and  warm. 

While  the  plants  are  young,  the  sashes  should  not 
be  opened  to  admit  air  until  an  hour  or  two  after  the 
removal  of  the  mats  ;  if  this  is  neglected,  the  plants 
will  "  damp  off,"  and  very  often  all  the  fii'st  sowing 
is  lost  in  this  way. 


IMPROVED  NEW  YORK  EGG  PLANT. 

The  seed  should  be  of  the  previous  year's  growth, 
although  seed  two  years  old  will  germinate  ;  fresli 
seed  is  better.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  give  at  least 
one  thousand  plants,  and  a  small  package  will  be 
enough  for  family  use.  (For  more  detailed  direc- 
tions for  forcing  Egg  Plants,  see  chapter  on  Hot- 
Beds.) 


144  EGG  1»LANT6. 

When  the  plants  have  been  treated  as  directed 
(for  the  latitude  of  Kew  York),  thej  may  be  trans- 
planted into  the  open  ground  by  the  20th  of  May. 
They  require  a  deep,  rich  soil,  well  worked.  We  set 
the  plants  three  feet  apart  each  way,  and  sprinkle 
some  superphospliate  or  some  finely-ground  bone  im- 
mediately around  the  roots  at  the  time  of  planting. 
Each  plant  is  taken  from  the  bed  with  a  square  of 
earth  around  the  roots.  The  afternoon  before  trans- 
planting, the  plants  are  copiously  watered,  so  that  the 
soil  will  adhere  to  the  roots.  Then,  with  a  long- 
bladed  knife  to  cut  through  on  either  side,  each 
plant  is  removed  without  disturbing  the  roots.  The 
plants  are  placed  on  a  wheel-barrow,  and  taken 
where  they  are  to  be  set  out. 

It  is  important  to  use  all  this  care,  for,  unless  all 
the  conditions  are  just  riglit.  Egg  Plants  are  very  tar- 
dy in  starting,  and  with  the  market-gardener  this  is  a 
matter  of  dollars  and  cents.  When  they  first  come 
into  market  they  usually  l)ring  two  dollars  per  dozen ; 
later,  the  price  goes  down  to  seventy -five  cents  or  one 
dollar  a  dozen. 

The  ground  should  be  hoed  frequently,  kept  loose 
and  free  from  weeds.  Plants  that  grow  to  full  size 
will  average  from  seven  to  nine  eggs  to  a  plant,  of 
the  "  New  York  Improved."  Two  or  three  dozen 
plants  will  give  an  abundance  of  eggs  for  a  family 
of  six  or  eight  persons. 

Varieties. — There  are  four  or  five  kinds  of  Egg 
Plants,  but  only  one  or  two  are  worthy  of  cultivation 
for  market. 

Kew  York  Improved. — With  an  experience  in 


EGG    PLANTS.  145 

growing  Egg  Plants  for  market  for  fifteen  years,  this 
variety  is  the  most  reliable  and  productive  of  any 
that  we  have  cultivated.  The  plants  are  vigorous  in 
their  habits  of  growth,  seldom,  if  ever,  failing  to 
produce  a  crop  of  fruit,  of  a  deep  purple  color,  uni- 
formly large,  and,  when  cooked,  of  good  quality. 

Black  Pekin  is  a  new  variety.  The  plant  grows 
more  erect  than  the  "  Improved."  The  foliage  and 
branches  are  of  a  rich  purple  color,  making  an  orna- 
mental plant,  and,  at  the  same  time,  producing  abun- 
dant fruit.  The  eggs  are  a  very  dark  purple,  nearly 
black,  of  large  size  and  good  quality.  This  variety 
is  worthy  of  trial  for  market  as  well  as  for  the  kitch- 
en-garden. 

AVhite  Egg  Plant  is  grown  principally  for  orna- 
mental purposes.  The  fruit,  when  full-grown,  is 
long,  egg-shaped,  and  of  a  pure  white  color. 

Long  Purple  w^as  at  one  time  grown  for  market, 
but  compared  with  the  "^ew  York  Improved,''  it 
has  not  with  us  given  anything  like  the  same  number 
of  eggs  to  the  plant.  The  fruit  is  long,  purple  in 
color,  and  of  fair  quality. 

HOW  TO  SAVE  EGG  PLANT  SEED. 

The  market-gardener  will  always  make  it  a  rule 
to  select  from  his  crop  a  few  specimens,  the  best  of 
their  kind  for  his  seed,  the  following  year.  When 
this  plan  is  faithfully  carried  out,  there  is  no  fear  that 
this  home-saved  seed  will  not  come  up,  under  ordinary 
circumstances ;  and  when  it  does  come  up,  the  variety 
is  sure  to  be  true  to  name,  which  is  not  always  the 
case  when  the  seeds  are  bought  fi-om  venders  or  from 


146  EGG   PLANTS. 

irresponsible  seedsmen.  There  is  nothing  more  vexa- 
tious in  the  gardener's  legitimate  routine  of  business, 
than  to  make  all  the  necessary  preparations  for  seed — 
preparing  the  ground  with  care,  manuring,  &c.,  &c., — 
and  then  to  find  out,  after  it  is  too  late  to  make  a 
second  attempt,  that  the  seed  is  old  and  it  will  not 
germinate,  or  that  instead  of  Cauliflower,  the  plants 
are  mixed  varieties  of  Cabbage. 

The  largest  and  best  formed  eggs  should  be  re- 
served for  seed  and  to  separate  the  seed  from  the  flesh 
requires  some  skill  and  care.  For  doing  this  work, 
choose  a  bright,  clear  day,  and  begin  the  work  early 
in  the  morning,  so  that  the  seeds  can  be  separated 
and  partly  dried  before  the  sun  goes  down.  If  not, 
the  whole  lot  may  be  rendered  worthless  by  sprouting 
during  the  night. 

Although  so  hard  to  start  in  the  hot-bed,  when 
first  w^ashed  out  from  the  eggs  it  sprouts  more  easily 
than  any  other  kind  of  garden-seed.  We  have  had 
large  quantities,  at  different  times,  spoiled  in  this  way, 
in  a  single  night. 

The  eggs  should  first  be  peeled,  and  then  the  part 
of  the  stem  end  that  contains  no  seeds  cut  off.  The 
balance  is  cut  into  small  pieces  and  thrown  into  a  tub 
or  pail  of  water.  Each  of  these  pieces  is  then  taken 
in  the  hand  and  tightly  squeezed ;  this  displaces  the 
seed  from  the  flesh,  and  when  all  the  seed  is  separated 
in  this  way,  the  pulp  is  thrown  away.  The  good  seed 
will  settle  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  by  slowly 
pouring  the  water  from  one  tub  to  another,  all  the 
extraneous  matter  can  easily  be  removed,  leaving  the 
eeed  clean,    Before  passing  the  water  from  tub  to 


EGG   PLANTS.  147 

tub,  it  may  sometimes  be  found  necessary  to  rub  be- 
tween the  hands  those  portions  of  the  pulp,  to  which 
some  of  the  seeds  may  still  adhere.  This  may  be  sep- 
arated from  the  seed  by  pouring  the  contents  of  the 
vessel  through  a  sieve,  with  a  mesh  large  enough  for 
the  seed  to  pass  out,  while  it  retains  a  large  part  of 
the  pulp. 

When  the  seed  is  freed  from  the  pulp  it  should 
at  once  be  placed  on  a  fine  sieve,  or  on  a  boaixl,  with 
a  smooth  surface,  spread  out  thinly  and  set  in  the  sun 
to  dry.  It  should  be  stirred  frequently  during  the 
day,  say  every  half  hour,  so  that  the  surface  of  the 
seed  will  be  hardened  enough  not  to  sprout  during 
the  night.  It  will  require  a  couple  of  days'  exposure 
to  dry  the  seed,  and  when  sufficiently  dry  it  should 
be  put  into  a  bag  and  hung  up  in  a  garret  or  seed- 
room  until  wanted. 

Keeping  Egg  Plants. — When  the  fruit  is  wanted 
for  winter  use  the  eggs  should  be  taken  from  the 
vines  in  November,  or  earlier,  that  is,  before  being 
touched  by  the  frost.  For  a  few  weeks,  until  the 
weather  grows  colder,  they  will  keep  on  a  barn  floor, 
or  under  a  shed,  where  they  are  sheltered.  Later  in 
the  season,  when  severe  cold  weather  sets  in,  the  sound 
specimens  should  be  placed  on  shelves  in  a  dry,  cool, 
cellar.  With  this  treatment  Egg  Plants  can  be  kept 
in  good  condition  for  the  table  until  the  first  of 
January. 

Market  gardeners,  who  have  plenty  of  frames, 
often  start  Egg  Plants  under  glass,  early  in  the  sea- 
son, and  force  the  plants  so  as  to  have  the  fruit  early. 
Two  plants  to  a  sash,  either  in  a  forcing-pit  or  spent 


148  ENDIVE. 

hot-bed,  will  be  enough,  and  the  fruit  may  be  ready 
for  market  a  month  earlier.  The}^  bring  from  four 
to  five  dollars  per  dozen  Avhen  grown  in  this  way. 

The  demand  is,  of  course,  limited.  Early  Egg 
Plants,  grown  at  Norfolk  and  Charleston,  and  shipped 
north  would  pay  very  well  to  a  limited  extent. 

Endive. 
Cichorimn  endivia. 

Endive  is  but  little  used  in  this  country  except 
by  Germans  and  French,  who  consume  it  freely  in 
the  Fall  and  early  Winter  in  flavoring  soups  and  mak- 
ing salads.  It  is  a  hardy  annual ;  the  seed  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground  any  time  from  Aj)ril  until 
the  first  of  August.  The  crop  will  mature  in  about 
ninety  days  from  the  time  of  sowing.  For  the  Fall 
crop  the  seed  sliould  be  sown  in  drills,  twelve  inches 
apart  and  a  quarter  of  an  incli  deep,  early  in  July. 
When  the  plants  are  up  a  scuffle-hoe  sliould  be  run 
between  the  rows  occasionally,  to  keep  down  the 
weeds.  By  the  middle  of  August  the  first  planting 
may  be  made,  setting  the  plants  one  foot  apart  each 
way,  on  any  kind  of  ground  that  is  loose  and  rich. 
The  cultivation  needed  is  to  keep  the  spaces  clean 
between  the  plants  with  the  common  garden  hoe. 

When  the  plants  attain  their  full  size  the  leaves 
are  long  and  spreading.  This  vegetable  is  only  in 
demand  when  the  "  hearts  "  are  bleached.  To  do  this 
the  outside  leaves  are  gathered  up  in  a  bunch  and 
fastened  in  this  way,  with  a  small  quantity  of  straw, 
hay,  or  bass  matting.     By  thus  excluding  the  light, 


ENDIYE.  14-9 

the  inside  leaves  will  change  color  to  a  yellowish 
white.  It  will  take  from  foniteen  to  sixteen  days  for 
this  change  to  take  place  in  mild  weather ;  a  few 
da^'s  longer  will  bereqnired  later  in  the  season,  when 
the  weather  is  colder.  A  smart  workman  will  tie  np 
six  hnndred  or  seven  hnndred  heads  in  a  day. 

Any  means  by  which  the  light  can  be  excluded 
will  bring  about  the  same  i-esult,  and  if  old  shingles 
are  abundant,  a  few  laid  on  top  of  each  head  will 
answer  the  purpose.  English  gardeners  sometimes 
draw  the  soil  around  Endive  in  the  same  way  as  for 
bleaching  Celery ;  this,  however,  is  tedious  and  much 
more  expensive. 

A  small  paper  of  seed  will  be  enough  to  sow  for 
family  use. 

When  seed  is  wanted  the  sowing  should  be  made 
early  in  April  and  the  transplanting  a  month  or  so 
later,  lea^•ing  more  space  between  the  rows.  \Ylien 
the  seed  stock  starts  to  grow  it  should  be  tied  to  a 
stake  driven  along  side.  The  seed  shoidd  be  gath- 
ered as  fast  as  it  ripens ;  it  does  not  all  ripen  at  the 
same  time.  Three  or  four  strong  plants  will  yield  an 
abundant  supplv. 

Yarieties.— Of  these  there  are  three  or  four 
known  to  gardeners.  The  best,  either  for  the  main 
crop  for  market  or  for  home  use,  is  the 

Green  Curled.— It  is  decidedly  the  best  variety 
for  cultivation,  being  less  affected  by  sudden  changes 
of  the  weather  than  the  other  kinds.'  When  bleached, 
it  is  quite  an  ornamental  plant,  and  the  most  popular 
with  consumers,  as  it  is  very  tender  and  crisp. 

Broad-lea^'ed  Batavia  grows  larger,  requiring 


^*  *  fi:.  c 


^^-i-ETc^ 


150  GAULIC. 

more  room  than  the  Curled.  It  is  only  used  in  stews 
and  soups,  being  also  very  much  inferior  in  quality. 

French  Moss  is  a  very  fine  curled  variety.  When 
more  generally  known,  it  will  be  a  favorite  on  ac- 
count of  its  appearance,  texture,  and  quality. 

When  Endi^•e  is  well  bleached  in  the  Fall,  we 
usually  get  from  seventy-five  cents  to  one  dollar  per 
dozen  heads  from  German  grocers,  who  always  keep 
a  supply  on  hand.     The  demand,  however,  is  limited. 

Garlic. 
A-Uium  sativum. 

The  Garlic  came  originally  from  Sicily.  The 
kind  cultivated  in  the  gardens  of  this  country  is  a 
hardy  perennial.  It  is  grown  somewhat  extensively ; 
but  it  is  used  principally  by  French  and  Germans 
for  fiavoring  soTips,  stews,  and  salads.  It  imparts  a 
strong,  and  to  most  Americans,  an  unpleasant  taste ; 
and  eaten  in  a  concentrated  form,  taints  the  breath 
of  the  person  who  uses  it.  Two  varieties  are  grown, 
the  large  and  the  small.  The  bulb,  which  is  enclosed 
in  a  thin,  white  skin,  divides  into  parts  or  cloves. 
These  divisions  are  planted  in  the  Spring  in  drills, 
one  foot  apart,  and  the  cloves  t^vo  inches  deep  and 
six  inches  a])art  in  the  rows. 

When  planted  in  April,  the  crop  can  be  gathered 
about  the  middle  of  August  and  stored  like  Onions. 
The  demand  in  market  is  not  large,  but  Garlic  will 
pay  about  as  well  as  Onions  to  the  extent  that  there 
is  a  call  for  it. 

One  quart  of  the  "  sets  "  will  yield  an  abundant 


HOESE-RADISH. 


151 


supply  for  family  use.  They  will  make  the  largest 
bulbs  when  planted  on  a  light,  rich  loam,  and  kept 
well  cultivated  while  ffi-owino*. 


HORSE-RADISH. 

Cochlearia  arrnoracia. 

Horse-Radish  is  an  important  crop  with  market- 
gardeners  near  large  cities,  and  when  grown  on  rich 
deep  ground  is  profitable. 
In  Essex  and  Hudson  coun- 
ties, Kew  Jersey,  and  in 
Kings  and  Queens  coun- 
ties. New  York,  Horse- 
Hadish  is  extensively  cul- 
tivated for  New  York  mar- 
kets. It  is  always  planted 
by  these  growers  as  a  sec- 
ond crop,  following  Early 
Cabbages  or  Beets.  When 
planted  between  these,  the 
''  sets  "  are  put  out,  two 
feet  one  way  and  eio-hteen 
inches  the  other.  At  these 
distances  it  will  take  aljout 
fifteen  thousand  roots  to 
plant  an  acre. 

The  Cabbages  and 
Beets  are  planted  early  in 
April,  just  as  soon  as  the 
ground  is  dry  enough  to 
be  worked.  The  Horse- 
Badish  "sets"  are  planted 


HORSE-KADISH  ROOT 


152  HOKSE-KADISH. 

a  month  latei',  in  the  following  manner.  One  man  is 
j^rovided  with  a  light  crowbar,  with  which  he  makes 
a  hole  al )out  ten  or  eleven  inches  deep  lietween  every 
two  Cabbages  all  along  the  line.  Another  man  follows 
with  a  bundle  of  the  roots,  drops  one  in  each  hole  and 
fills  in  the  earth  around  it,  wdth  a  "  dibble,"  having 
the  top  of  the  set  about  tw^o  inches  below  the  surface. 

When  preparing  these  sets  in  the  Fall, — leaving 
them  six  or  seven  inches  long — the  tops  should  be  cut 
oft"  square  and  the  lower  end  of  the  root  slanting,  so 
that  when  planting,  in  the  Spring,  no  mistake  will  be 
made,  putting  them  in  upside  down. 

By  the  time  the  Beets,  Cauliflowers  or  Cabbages 
are  marketed,  the  Horse-Badish  will  be  well  above 
ground.  In  case  the  roots  start  quickly,  making  too 
much  growth  before  the  first  crops  have  been  taken 
from  the  ground,  we  chop  off  the  tops  with  the  hoe, 
without  injuring  the  after  growth,  in  the  least.  As 
soon  as  the  early  crop  is  removed,  the  ground  is  well 
cultivated,  keeping  the  surface  loose  and  free  from 
weeds  through  August,  September  and  October,  for 
this  crop  will  make  all  its  growth  in  these  three  months. 
Tlie  tops  are  so  large  and  spreading  that  there  is  very 
little  trouble  in  cultivating  Horse-Badish,  as  it  is  now 
grown  by  market-gardeners  near  New  York  and  other 
large  Northern  cities.  The  old-fashioned  method  of 
allowing  the  roots  to  remain  in  the  ground  two  years, 
has  been  abandoned  by  the  modern  gardener  as  use- 
less and  unnecessary :  for  when  planted  in  the  way 
described,  in  rich  soil,  the  roots  will  attain  full  size  in 
a  single  year. 

This  is  but  one  of  the  many  improvements  in- 


HORSE-EADISH.  153 

trodiiced  by  the  modern  market-gardener,  in  cnlti- 
vating  vegetables  for  profit,  o\er  the  old  style  private 
gardeners,  who  liave  always  been  opposed  to  such 
innovation,^. 

In  the  latter  part  of  No^•embel',  the  roots  Avill 
have  attained  their  full  growth  and  they  can  then  be 
dug  and  stored  for  Winter  use.  At  the  time  of  dig- 
ging, it  is  not  unusual  to  have  many  of  the  roots 
weigh  two  pounds  a  piece.  Before  pitting,  the  tops 
are  cut  off  and  all  the  straggling  small  roots  are 
trinnned  off.  These  small  roots  are  carefully  pre- 
served for  "  sets  "  for  the  next  vear's  plantino;.  The 
large  roots  that  are  intended  for  market,  are  then 
put  into  pits.  A  spot  is  selected  u^here  there  is  a 
natural  descent  for  the  water,  three  feet  wide  and 
as  long  as  may  be  required.  First,  a  layer  of  the 
roots  is  put  down,  then  a  thin  layer  of  earth,  and  so 
alternate  layers  are  added,  until  the  pit  is  three  or 
four  feet  higli.  Then  the  whole  is  covered  with 
earth,  eight  or  ten  inches  deep.  The  roots  of  Horse- 
Eadish  are  not  injured  by  frost.  The  alternate  layers 
of  earth  will  keep  the  roots  from  heating  and  in  such 
a  position  that  they  can  be  taken  out  at  any  time 
during  the  Winter,  when  the  demand  and  prices 
satisfy  the  grower. 

The  small  roots,  intended  for  next  year's  use, 
may  be  put  into  narrow  trenches,  as  described  for 
Celery,  until  wanted  in  the  Spring,  when  they  are 
cut  the  i)roper  length  for  planting. 

The  price  of  IIorse-Eadish  varies  from  ^^ear  to 
year.  In  the  Fall  of  1869  it  was  only  worth  seven 
cents  per  pound,  while  in  the  following  February, 


154:  HOESE-RADISH. 

the  same  quality  of  roots  sold  for  eighteen  cents  per 
pound.  At  present,  large,  Avell-grovvn  roots  are 
worth  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars  per  hundred  pounds. 
On  very  rich  ground  and  under  the  most  faA^orable 
circumstances,  from  fom-  to  ti\'e  tons  of  Horse-Eadish 
are  produced  on  an  acre.  But  the  average  yield, 
obtained  by  most  growers,  does  not  eepial  this  amount. 
Three  or  four  tons  to  the  acre  may  be  considered  a 
fair  crop,  and  when  sold  at  from  one  hundred  to  one 
hundred  and  thirty  dollars  per  ton,  it  would  pay  a 
handsome  profit,  fi'om  the  fact  of  its  easy  culture. 

The  method  of  preparing  Horse-Radish  for  mar- 
ket, is  simple  and  rapid.  The  roots  are  taken  from 
the  pit  to  tlie  market-house — the  toi)s  and  small  roots 
having  been  trimmed  off  in  the  Fall — thrown  into  a 
large  wash-tub  and  witli  the  aid  of  a  scrubbing-brush 
thoroughly  cleaned.  In  this  state  the  roots  are  sent  to 
market.  For  the  kitchen -garden,  it  is  well  to  adopt 
the  same  method  of  cultixation.  Twenty  sets  planted 
every  Spring  will  yield  enough  to  supply  a  family. 

As  soon  as  the  crop  of  Horse-Radish  is  taken  out 
of  the  ground  in  the  Fall,  the  ])ed  or  field  should  be 
ploughed.  This  will  displace  and  expose  to  view  near- 
ly all  of  the  smaller  roots  that  were  left  in  the  ground 
at  the  time  of  digging.  It  is  well  to  have  a  boy  fol- 
low the  plough  and  gather  all  of  these  roots,  for  if  left 
Tindisturbed  for  a  single  season,  it  will  he  found  a 
troublesome  task  to  get  rid  of  the  Horse-Radish.  By 
following  this  plan,  very  few  of  these  small  roots 
will  be  left  in  the  ground,  and  any  that  still  remain 
can  be  taken  out  when  the  ground  is  again  ploughed 
in  the  Spring,  before  planting  with  another  crop. 


KOHL-RABI. 


155 


KOHL-EABI. 

Brassica  caulo-rapa. 

The  Ivohl-Eabi  or  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage  is  not 
generally  known  or  cultivated  in  this  country.  It  is 
evidently  a  hybrid  between  the  Cabbage  and  Turnip, 
and  to  some  extent  partakes  of  the  characteristics  of 
both. 

For  early  use,  we  sow  the  seed  in  a  hot-bed  about 


KOHL-RABr. 

the  middle  of  March,  transplant  once,  into  another 
bed  in  April  and  plant  in  the  open  ground  early  in 
May.  When  the  Kohl-Eabi  is  two-thirds  grown,  if 
boiled  and  sliced,  it  will  be  found  tender,  more  deli- 
cate in  flavor,  than  either  Cabbage  or  Turnip  and  not 
unlike  Cauliflower. 


156  KOHL-RABI. 

There  is  a  limited  demand  in  market,  for  those 
grown  early,  by  the  Germans  and  French,  who  prize 
them  highly.  In  preparing  them  for  market,  the 
stems  are  cnt  off  close  to  the  bnlb  and  three  of  them 
tied  by  the  leaves  in  a  bnnch.  They  bring  from 
seventy-live  cents  to  one  dollar  per  dozen  bnnches, 
and  to  the  extent  of  the  demand  for  them,  pay  very 
well  at  these  prices.  As  a  late  crop  or  for  a  succes- 
sion, the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground  in  the  same 
way  as  Cabbage-seed — about  the  10th  of  May,  and  a 
second  sowing  may  be  made  a  month  later. 

When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high, 
they  are  transplanted  ;  two  feet  between  the  rows 
and  one  foot  apart  in  the  row.  Like  all  the  Cabbage 
tribe,  the}^  will  grow  best  on  deep,  ri('h  soil.  It  is 
stated  by  some  that  the  Ivohl-Ral)i  is  difficult  to 
transplant,  we  have  grown  it  for  many  years,  and 
never  found  this  to  be  the  case,  no  more  difficult 
than  Cabbage  plants. 

The  ground  l)etween  the  rows  should  be  kept 
constantly  stirred  while  the  plants  are  growing  and 
no  weeds  suffered  to  remain.  A  small  paper  of  seed 
will  give  enough  plants  to  stock  the  kitchen-garden. 
In  order  to  have  them  young  and  tender  for  the 
table,  two  or  three  plantings  should  be  niade  during 
the  season.  For  cooking,  they  should  not  be  allowed 
to  grow  full  size,  if  they  do,  the  outside  skin  be- 
comes hard  and  tough. 

Sooner  or  later,  the  Kohl-Rabi  will  be  culti\ated 
on  a  large  scale,  in  the  stock-growing  districts  of 
this  country  for  feeding  cattle  during  tlie  winter. 
In  field  culture  they  are  more  easily  grown  than  the 


K02L-RABI.  157 

Ruta  Baga  and  they  yield  a  larger  weiglit  of  roots 
to  the  acre  than  Turnips.  The  ground  should  be 
prepared  and  ridged,  as  directed  for  Carrots,  and  the 
seed  sown  on  these  drills,  using  one  and  a  half  pounds 
of  fresh  seed  to  the  acre.  They  should  be  treated  in 
every  way  like  Turnips,  the  only  difference  being, 
that  they  should  not  be  left  standing  quite  as  thick 
in  the  rows.  Eight  or  ten  inches  apart  will  be  found 
close  enough.  Tlie  lea-e>-;  of  the  Kolil-Rabi  are 
equally  valuable  for  feeding  purposes  as  the  roots. 
One  bushel  of  these  roots  is  worth  nearly  two  bush- 
els of  the  common  White  Turnip,  for  cattle,  and 
they  are  fully  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  best  Ruta 
Baga.  The  seed  should  be  so\vn  in  July,  and  the 
roots  can  ])e  pitted  in  the  Fall  in  the  same  way  as 
Turnips,  Carrots,  or  Beets. 

Or,  the  seed  can  be  mwm  in  a  seed-bed  and 
transplanted  if  more  convenient.  Although  for  field- 
culture  we  prefer  sowing  the  seed  in  place,  and 
thinning  out  the  plants  to  the  proper  distance  apart. 

Varieties. — There  are  only  two  kinds  of  Kohl- 
Rabi,  that  are  grown  to  any  extent. 

Early  White. — This  is  the  best  variety,  both  for 
the  kitchen-garden  and  market.  It  is  of  a  glossy 
white  color,  flesh  tender  while  young,  and  good  for 
the  table  when  the  bvdl)s  are  three  or  four  inches  in 
diameter. 

Early  Purple — This  variety  is  in  every  way 
similar  to  the  White  except  in  color,  which  the  name 
designates.  For  table  use,  it  is  just  as  good,  but  it 
does  not  sell  as  well  in  market,  on  account  of  the 
color. 

8 


158  KOHL-RABI. 

The  Green  and  Large  Purple  varieties  are  coarser 
in  flesh,  they  are  only  grown  for  cattle  feeding. 
The  bulbs  attain  a  larger  size  than  the  first  two  sorts 
named. 


CHAPTER  YII. 

Lettuce. 

Lactuca  sativa. 

The  Lettuce  is  a  hardy  annual  and  one  of  the 
most  generally  cultiyated  and  popular  yegetables  in 
the  Catalogue.  It  is  yery  healthful  as  a  Spring  and 
Sunnner  salad  ;  for  this  purpose  it  is  unequalled. 
It  may  be  divided  into  t^yo  classes,  the  Cabbage  or 
Head  Lettuce,  and  the  upright  growing  sorts  from 
the  Island  of  Cos,  known  as  the  Cos  Lettuce.  To 
haye  the  latter  kind  in  perfection,  the  leaves  should 
be  tied  up  as  recommended  for  Endive,  and  blanched. 
AYlien  treated  in  this  way,  the  leaves  are  tender, 
crisp  and  delicate. 

The  Cabbage,  or  Head  sorts,  are  now  extensively 
cultivated,  both  for  family  use  and  by  the  market- 
gardener,  who  looks  upon  this  crop  as  easily  culti- 
yated, and  profitable.  This  is  especially  so  if  the 
location  of  his  garden  is  within  easy  distance  from  a 
large  market,  so  as  to  deliver  the  Lettuce  with  his 
own  wagon  to  the  huckster  or  grocer. 

The  Lettuce  is  o^rown  on  a  laro^e  scale  for  market, 
in  the  open  field,  planted  usually  between  rows  of 
Early  Cabl)ages,  putting  the  Lettuce  plants  from 
fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  al- 
temate  with  the  rows  of  Cabbao:es,  which  leayes  the 


160  LETTUCE. 

distance  between  the  rows  two  feet.  This  arrange- 
ment will  give  from  fifteen  thousand  to  seventeen 
thousand  heads  of  Lettuce  to  an  acre.  The  Lettuce 
crop  will  be  read}-  for  market  and  sold  before  the 
Cabbages  require  all  the  room.  AVhen  there  are 
fifteen  thousand  planted  on  good  ground,  twelve 
thousand  of  them  will  be  marketable  and  they  will 
bring  from  seven  dollars  and  fifty  cents  to  ten  dollars 
per  thousand  heads. 

The  seed  for  this  early  crop  is  sown  in  tlie  Fall, 
fi'om  the  5th  to  the  10th  of  September,  in  the  open 
ground.  About  the  middle  of  October,  we  trans- 
plant into  cold  frames,  putting  six  or  eight  hundred 
plants  to  a  sash  of  3x6.  The  winter  treatment  is 
similar  to  that  recommended  for  keej^ng  Cabbage 
plants.  During  cold  weather,  the  beds  are  covered 
with  sashes,  giving  air  in  ^ery  mil  I  or  Avarm  weather. 

For  family  use,  a  small  quantity  of  seed  may  be 
sown  at  the  same  date.  A  rough  structure  of  boards 
may  be  fixed  for  protecting  the  plants  during  the 
Winter ;  or  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  a  sheltered  spot  in 
tlio  garden  and  mulched  before  cold  weather  sets  in, 
with  salt  hay  or  other  litter,  the  plants  Avill  keep 
fresh  until  Spring,  wlien  they  can  be  transplanted. 

Again,  for  the  kitchen-garden,  a  small  paper  of 
seed,  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  about  the  first  of  March, 
will  give  plants  large  enough  to  set  out  in  the  open 
ground  in  the  latter  part  of  April.  To  have  a  suc- 
cession of  plantings,  more  seed  can  be  sown  in  the 
open  ground  in  April  and  transplanted  to  the  gar- 
den ;  the  Lettuce  will  come  to  maturity  in  six  weeks 
from  the  tune  of  planting. 


LETTUCE.  161 

When  Lettuce  is  set  out  in  a  bed  by  itself,  the 
plants  may  be  put  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way. 
Like  most  other  garden  products,  it  needs,  in  order  to 
insure  success,  a  deep,  rich  soil  that  is  kept  well  cuh 
tivated. 

Growing  Lettuce  in  Winter,  by  bottom-heat,  l)oth 
in  hot-beds  and  in  forcing-pits,  is  a  large  and  lucra- 
tive branch  of  the  market-gardener's  business,  when 
situated  near  large  cities.  Formerly  a  large  part  of 
the  frame  Lettuce  was  grown  in  cold-beds  ;  planted 
in  November  (fifty  plants  to  a  sash),  the  crop  would 
be  ready  for  market  early  in  May.  This  system 
has  given  v/ay,  in  turn,  to  hot-beds  and,  more  recent- 
ly, to  forcing-houses,  put  up  expressly  for  growing 
vegetables  (especially  Lettuce)  during  the  Winter 
months.  There  have  been  a  dozen  or  more  of  this 
kind  of  house  put  up  in  the  vicinity  of  Newark,  N. 
J.,  last  year,  and  as  many  more  will  be  built  the 
present  season.  Considering  the  economy  of  time 
in  managing  these  forcing-houses,  they  will,  without 
doubt,  entirely  supersede  the  old  style  hot-bed  sys- 
tem. 

Under  the  headings  "Hot-Beds"  and  "Forcing- 
Houses,"  there  will  be  found  fuller  directions  about 
their  care,  construction,  &c.,  &c. 

Although  there  is  a  long  list  of  varieties  of  Let- 
tuce given  in  seedsmen's  catalogues,  only  a  few  of 
them  will  pay  to  grow  either  for  family  use  or  mar- 
ket. Among  the  best  for  either  purpose  may  be 
named 

Early  Curled  Simpson.— This  is  one  of  the  best 
cm-led  varieties  now  cultivated.     It  is  superior  to  the 


162  LETTTJCEo 

Curled  Silesia  and  more  reliable  for  field-culture. 
It  has  been  grown  extensively  in  cold  frames,  but  it 
is  not  a  good  variety  for  forcing  with  bottom-heat. 
It  is  grown,  in  preference  to  any  other,  by  market- 
gardeners,  for  a  Spring  crop  among  Cabbages  and 
Cauliflowers.  It  is  an  excellent  kind  for  Spring 
planting  in  the  kitchen-garden. 

Tennis  Ball. — This  \ariety  forms  a  small,  solid 
head,  and  is  a  very  superior  kind  for  forcing-pur- 
poses, for  wliich  it  is  extensively  used.  The  leaves 
are  nearly  smooth,  and,  when  full  grown,  the  head 
is  tender,  juicy,  and  crisp. 

Boston  Head  Lettuce. — The  variety  known  to 
gardeners  by  this  name  is  a  Avhite-seeded  butter. 
The  leaves  are  smooth.  It  forms  a  head  one  quar- 
ter larger  than  the  Tennis  Ball,  and  is  a  reliable 
kind  for  forcing.  It  is  popular  in  market  on  account 
of  its  size  and  quality. 

Black  Seeded  Butter  forms  a  large  head  when 
planted  in  the  open  ground  in  Spring ;  it  will  not 
stand  bottom-heat,  and  it  is,  therefore  of  very  little 
use  for  forcing.  But  it  is  extensively  grown  in  the 
garden  and  field,  and  is  one  of  the  most  profitable 
for  this  purpose. 

Brown  Dutch  is  a  hardy  sort,  that  will  stand  the 
Winter  better  than  other  kinds  that  we  grow. 

Large  Indian  grows  large  in  the  open  ground, 
and  stands  the  Summer  heat  better  than  any  other 
of  the  good  varieties.  It  has  a  curled  leaf,  lighter 
in  color  than  the  Silesia,  and  is  a  popular  Summer 
kind. 

Paris  Green  Cos. — This  variety  of  the  Cos  is 


LEEK.  163 

the  best  for  culture  in  this  country.  It  has  an  up- 
right growth,  with  long,  narrow  leaves.  These 
should  be  fastened  up  with  a  little  straw,  for  ten  or 
twelve  days  before  cutting,  to  blanch.  AYith  this 
treatment,  the  Cos  will  be  found  of  superior  quality 
for  salads. 

Gardeners  should  not  overlook  the  importance  of 
selecting  the  best  specimens  of  their  kinds  of  Let- 
tuce, to  grow  for  seed.  To  plant  seeds  not  true  to 
name  is  an  unprofitable  business. 

A  hundred  plants  planted  CNery  month  in  the 
Spring  will  afford  enough  for  family  use.  A  small 
paper  each  of  two  varieties  will,  when  sown  in  a 
sheltered  spot  in  the  garden,  give  that  number  of 
plants. 

LEEK. 

Allium  porri(m. 

The  Leek  is  a  hardy  biemiial,  that  will  stand  the 
severity  of  our  Winters  with  but  slight  protection. 
It  attains  its  full  size  the  first  year,  but  does  not  pro- 
duce seed  until  the  second.  The  Leek  is  similar  in 
quality  to  the  Onion  ;  by  many  persons  it  is  pre- 
ferred on  account  of  its  milder  flavor.  It  is  used  in 
soups  and  salads;  sometimes  it  is  boiled  alone  and 
served  like  Asparagus  or  Onions. 

With  the  market-gardener,  tlie  Leek  is  always 
grown  as  a  second  crop ;  it  should  be  cultivated  in 
the  same  way  by  the  private  gardener. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  well-prepared  bed, 
about  the  middle  of  April,  in  rows  one  foot  apart. 


164 


LEEK. 


Wlien   the   plants  are  up,  tlie  spaces  between  the 
rows  should  be  frequently  disturbed,  to  prevent  the 


LONDON  FLAG. 


LEEK.  165 

weeds  getting  any  headway.  By  the  middle  of  July 
to  the  first  of  August,  when  Early  Potatoes,  Peas, 
and  Cabbages  are  removed,  the  ground  is  prepared 
for  the  Leeks. 

When  everything  is  in  order  and  the  weather 
favorable,  the  young  plants  are  pulled  and  trans- 
planted in  rows  one  foot  apart,  and  six  inches  apart 
in  the  row.  Tlie  roots  and  leaves  may  be  trimmed  off 
a  little  at  the  time  of  transplanting.  The  only  care 
necessary,  from  the  time  of  setting  out  the  plants  until 
the  Fall,  is  to  keep  the  soil  loose  and  free  from  weeds. 

In  November  the  Leeks  may  be  dug  up  and 
stored,  until  wanted  for  use,  in  trenches  similar  to 
those  described  for  Celery,  which  can  be  opened  at 
all  times,  Avithout  much  trouble. 

The  principal  demand  for  Leeks,  in  market,  is 
during  the  Winter  and  Spring.  They  usually  sell 
freely,  giving  a  profit  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dol- 
lars to  tln*ee  hundred  dollars  per  acre. 

In  preparing  them  for  market,  nearly  all  the  roots 
and  part  of  the  tops  are  cut  off,  tlien  washed  and 
tied  in  bunches — about  six  large  roots  to  a  bunch. 

Tliere  are  only  two  varieties  grown  to  any  extent 
in  this  country  :  The  London  Flag  and  Muslenbukgh 
They  are  l^oth  good,  very  little  if  any  preference  can 
be  given  to  either.  For  seed,  some  of  the  best  roots 
should  be  kept  and  set  out  the  following  Spring. 

Those  who  do  not  want  the  trouble  of  transplant- 
ing, can  sow  the  seed  in  a  permanent  bed  and  then 
thin  out  the  plants  in  the  rows  to  the  distance  named. 
By  this  method,  however,  the  Leeks  will  not  attain 
as  large  a  size  as  Avhen  transplanted, 
8* 


166  MARTYNIA. 

Leek-seed  can  only  be  relied  on  for  two  years ; 
older  than  this  it  is  uncertain.  An  ounce  of  seed  will 
be  an  abundance  for  the  garden  ;  if  fresh,  it  will  give 
from  tw^o  thousand  to  three  thousand  plants. 

MAETYNIA. 

Martynia  proboscidecb. 

The  Martynia  is  not  generally  cultivated  by 
American  gardeners.  It  is  an  annual.  The  pods 
are  used  principally  for  pickling. 


MARTYNIA. 


The  plant  is  spreading  in  its  habits ;  it  should  not 
be  planted  closer  than  two  and  a  half  feet  apart  eacli 
way.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  in  April  and 
transplanted  in  place  the  latter  part  of  May  or  early 
in  June  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  a  permanent  place 
and  thinned  out  when  the  plants  are  three  or  four 
inches  high. 

The  pods  are  produced  in  great  abimdance ;  they 
should  be  used  while  young  and  tender, 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

MELONS. 

Cucujnis  melo. 

The  Musk  Melon  is  well  known  and  is  in  ver}^ 
(■'jneral  cnltivalion  in  all  the  thickly  settled  parts  of 
onr  C(^nntiy.  Wherever  the  best  varieties  are  grown 
a  more  extended  culture  of  them  is  sure  to  follow. 
With  a  climate  and  soil  so  well  adapted  to  the  growth 
t>f  Melons  of  a  fine  quality,  it  is  an  easy  matter,  for 
any  one  who  owns  or  cultivates  a  piece  of  ground,  to 
have,  in  their  season,  an  abundant  supply  of  this 
fruit. 

There  is  a  good  demand  for  Melons  in  all  large 
towns  or  cities,  and  hundreds  of  acres  of  the  light 
soils  of  New  Jersey  and  Long  Island  are  devoted  to 
the  growth  of  this  crop  for  New  York  markets. 

When  grown  as  a  field  crop,  Melons  seldom  pay 
a  profit  of  more  than  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred 
dollars  per  acre.  But  the  expense  of  growing  is  much 
less  than  that  of  other  garden  crops,  and  as  they  carry  • 
\\'ell  long  distan('es,  tliey  are  usually  grown  on  land  too 
])o;)r  f(  )r  legitimate  market  gardening.  Within  the  j)ast 
few  years,  gardeners  or  farmers  aroimd  Norfolk,  Va., 
and  in  the  State  of  Delaware,  have  grown  Melons  on 
a  large  scale  and  shipped  them  to  Northern  markets, 


168  MELONS. 

witli  profits  ranging  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  dollars 
an  acre. 

In  cultivating  Melons,  either  in  the  kitchen-gar- 
den or  for  market,  earliness  in  maturing  is  desirable, 
and  any  practicable  means  that  may  be  available  to 
hurry  forward  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  is  worthy  of 
attention.  The  vines  while  young,  are  in  danger  of 
being  destroyed  hy  the  well-known  striped  hug. 
The  best  plan  is  to  start  the  seeds  in  a  moderate  hot- 
bed, at  the  same  date  and  treat  them  in  the  same 
way  as  directed  for  Cucumbers.  When  transplanted 
in  place,  if  attacked  by  the  bugs,  a23[)ly  the  same 
remedies. 

The  Melon  will  thrive  best  on  a  deep,  sandy  loam, 
thoroughly  worked.  Before  making  the  hills,  the 
ground  should  be  Avorked  over  twice,  if  in  the  field, 
with  the  plow^,  if  in  the  garden,  with  the  digging-foi'k. 

The  piece  of  ground  should  then  be  marked  out, 
five  feet  apart  each  way.  A  hole  is  made  at  each 
intersection,  with  a  spade,  a  forkful  of  well-rotted 
manure  is  thrown  into  each  hole,  and  a  hill  made 
over  this  manure  of  the  fine  surface  soil.  The  hill 
should  l)e  two  inches  higher  than  the  surrounding 
surface  and  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  in  diameter.  A 
dozen  seeds  are  then  planted  in  a  circle  on  each  hill, 
and  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  When  the 
plants  have  formed  two  rough  leaves,  thin  out,  leav- 
ing only  three  plants  to  a  hill.  When  these  begin  to 
run,  pinch  them  back  twice,  to  the  third  joint. 

When  the  plants  are  started  in  a  hot-bed,  they 
slioidd  be  lifted  and  set  out  in  the  same  way  as  Cu- 
cumbers. 


MELOKS. 


169 


Tweiitj-fi\e  liills  will  yield  an  abund- 
ance of  Melons  for  family  nse.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  be  enough  to  plant 
this  number  of  hills. 

The  m-ound  nnist  be  well  cultivated 
both  ways  with  a  cultivator,  and  around 
the  plants,  hoed  two  or  three  times  with 
a  hand-hoe.  At  the  first  hoeing,  draw 
some  earth  ai-o^md  the  stems,  to  support 
them  against  strong  winds. 

When  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  hill, 
a  conical  wooden  box,  open  at  the  top 
or  covered  with  a  light  of  glass,  will  be 
found  a  protection  against  the  bugs,  as 
well  as  a  means  of  hastening  the  growth. 

By  making  a  square  hole  for  the 
manure,  twenty  inches  deep,  then  put- 
ting on  top  of  it  two  or  three  inches 
of  soil,  which  will  leave  the  seeds  when 
planted  three  inches  below  the  level  of 
the  sin-face— and  placing  over  the  t()p^'AKi^EN  spade. 
of  this  square  opening  a  light  of  glass,  a  forcing' 
bed  is  formed  in  the  garden,  which  will  be  at  oncb 
simple  and  effective  as  well  as  useful  to  keep  off  the 
bugs. 

It  is  not  easy  for  the  pri\ate  gardener  to  keep 
Melon-seed  pure.  It  is  so  liable  to  sport  with  Cu- 
cumbers or  other  varieties  of  the  same  family  when 
growing  in  the  same  garden. 

The  best  kinds  for  garden  or  field-culture  are  as 
follows : 

Green  Citeon. — I'ruit  medium  size,  nearly  round 


170  MELON,  WATI^R. 

Fksh  green,  tliick  and  of  good  quality.  The  surface 
IB  roughly  netted,  when  pure.  It  is  a  popular  market 
variety. 

Nutmeg  is  an  old  and  favorite  variety.  It  grows 
larger  than  the  Citron,  but  is  not  quite  so  produetiA'e. 
The  skin  is  dark  green  and  netted ;  shape  globular, 
flesh  a  light  green,  juicy  and  meltixg. 

Skillman's  Fine-netted  is  an  early  small-sized 
variety.  The  skin  is  roughly  netted,  the  flesh  green 
and  of  excellent  quality. 

WnrrE  Japan. — This  variety,  a  native  of  Japan, 
is  early,  thin  skinned,  deeply  ribbed,  and  of  a  light 
color.     The  flesh  is  thick,  melting  and  fine  flavored. 

MELON,  WATER. 

Cucurhita  citndlus. 

The  culture  of  the  Water  Melon  is  essentially  the 
same  as  that  of  the  Musk  Melon ;  the  only  difference 
being,  that  the  AVater  Melon  should  be  planted  at  a 
distance  of  eight  feet  apart  each  way,  and  in  making 
the  hills  twice  the  quantit}^  of  manure  recommended 
for  the  Musk  Melon  should  be  })ut  to  each  hill. 

The  Water  Melon  will  do  best  on  new  ground, 
where  the  brush  has  just  been  removed  and  the  sui*- 
face  grubbed  or  plowed.  Then  l)y  making  holes, 
eight  feet  apart  each  way,  putting  in  a  couple  of 
shovelfuls  of  compost — made  of  yard-manure  and 
leaf -mould — in  each  hole,  then  making  a  hill  over  the 
manure  and  planting  six  or  seven  seeds  to  a  hill,  the 
yield  will  be  satisfactory. 

When  the  plants  are  fairly  above  the  surface 


MELON,  WATER.  171 

thej  require  close  watcliiiig.  The  "  striped  bug " 
makes  short  work  of  a  field  of  Melons,  if  not  checked 
in  time. 

A  supply  of  finely -ground  flour  of  bone  should  be 
kept  on  hand,  the  surface  of  the  hills  dusted  with  it 
before  the  plants  come  through  and  afterward,  at 
shoii^  intervals,  until  such  time  as  the  plants  are  past 
danger. 

Not  more  than  tln-ee  vines  should  be  allowed  to 
a  hill.  Water  Melon  growers  in  New  Jersey  calcu- 
late on  a  profit  of  about  one  hundred  dollars  or  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  acre — for  a  successful 
year.  Like  the  Musk  Melon,  they  will  flourish  best 
on  soil  of  a  light  character,  when  well  manured  in 
the  hill. 

Two  ounces  of  seed  will  be  enough  to  plant  for 
family  use,  and  if  convenient,  it  is  best  to  start  the 
seeds  in  a  hot-bed.     The  best  kinds  to  grow  are — 

Mountain  Sweet. — It  is  one  of  the  best  for  gen- 
eral culture.  Large  size,  dark  green  color,  thin  rind 
and  flesh  delicious. 

Mountain  Spkout  is  another  good  variety — exten- 
sively cultivated  in  Xew  Jersey  for  market.  It  is  a 
long  Melon,  striped  lengthw^ise,  flesh  bright  scarlet 
and  of  good  quality. 

Orange. — When  the  rind  is  removed  from  this 
Melon,  it  divides  easily  in  sections  like  an  Orange.  It 
grows  only  medium  size,  oval  shaped,  flesh  red  and 
not  first  quality. 

Persian  is  a  new  variety,  lately  introduced.  The 
form  globular ;  color,  pale  green  with  dark  stripes  ; 
flesh  crimson  and  of  good  quality.     It  is  but  little 


172  MUSTAED.      IVrtlSHROOMg. 

known  as  yet,  but  it  will  be  of  value  on  accoiuit  of 
its  good  keeping  qualities. 

CiTKON. — This  variety  is  gro^vn  exclusively  foi* 
preserves.  It  is  round,  skin  smooth  and  striped ; 
flesh  light-colored  and  solid. 

MUSTARD. 

Sinajyis  alha.     Sinajns  nigra: 

There  are  two  varieties  usually  grown  ;  the  Wliite 
Mustard  cultivated  for  salads,  and  the  common 
Brown,  that  is  cultivated  for  the  seed  which  is  ground 
for  table  Mustard. 

Wlien  groAvn  in  the  garden,  the  seed  may  be 
sown  thickly,  in  the  open  ground,  eai'ly  in  April,  in 
rows  one  foot  apart,  in  loose,  mellow  ground.  To 
have  a  succession,  the  sowings  may  be  made  every 
two  or  three  weeks  until  September.  Mustard  must 
be  cut  for  use  while  young,  for  Avhen  the  leaves  are 
full-grown,  the  strong  flavor  is  unpleasant. 

The  Brown  Mustard  is  grown  as  a  field  crop  for 
the  seed,  for  grinding.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in 
drills  or  broadcast,  in  the  latter  part  of  April  or 
early  in  May,  using  from  four  to  six  quarts  of  seed 
to  an  acre.  In  August  the  crop  Avill  be  ready  for 
cutting,  when  it  is  dried  and  thrashed  out. 

When  once  sown  in  this  way  on  a  piece  of  ground, 
it  is  difficult  to  get  rid  of  the  Mustard ;  it  is  quite  an 
annoyance,  on  this  account. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Agariciis  campestris. 
The  consumption  of  Musln-ooms  in  this  country 
has  very  materially  increased  within  the  past  dozen 


MUSHROOMS.  lYS 

years,  and  it  will  probably  continue  to  do  so  steadily 
from  year  to  year.  The  t^upply  of  fresh  Mushrooms 
has  always  fallen  short  of  the  demand,  and  yet  there 
have  been  very  few  attempts  made,  so  far,  by  men 
of  capital  to  erect  suitable  structures  for  their  culti- 
vation. 

The  few  Mushrooms  that  reach  the  markets  at 
present  are  gathered  in  small  lots  in  pasture  fields. 
Occasionally,  an  energetic  gardener,  who  has  some 
unoccupied  space  near  his  boilers  either  in  forcing 
or  green-houses,  puts  up  a  rough  contrivance  for  a 
Mushroom-bed.  If  successful,  they  are  sent  to  mar- 
ket, sure  to  command  a  good  price ;  but  very  often 
the  experiment  fails,  and  nothing  more  is  heard  of 
tlie  undertaking.  AVhen  a  proper  building  can  be 
had,  and  an  even  temperature  kept  up.  Mushrooms 
may  be  grown  for  family  use  or  for  market  without 
much  trouble,  provided  proper  care  is  observed  in  the 
selection  and  preparation  of  the  manure  used,  which 
is  the  important  point. 

Some  few  years  ago  we  constructed  tv.-o  caves, 
each  five  huudred  feet  long,  for  growing  Mushrooms. 
They  were  fourteen  feet  wide,  fi^e  feet  deep,  and 
covered  with  a  board  roof,  forming  a  right  angle 
with  the  two  sides.  The  roof,  made  of  joist  for  raft- 
ers and  hemlock  boards,  Avas  covered  with  earth  to 
the  depth  of  twenty  inches  and  then  thatched  with 
straw.  In  these  structures  an  even  temperature 
was  maintained  without  fire,  and  while  the  roofing 
lasted,  the  growth  of  Mushrooms  pro  red  a  success. 
When  the  beds  came  into  full  bearing  they  pre- 
sented an  interesting:  sio:ht — the  entire  iiurtaco  of  ttiQ 


174  Mushrooms. 

beds  dotted  with  the  white  Mushrooms  that  had 
sprung  from  beneath  the  light  covering  of  soil  in  a 
single  night.  When  these  were  gathered  others  were 
ready  to  take  their  place ;  and  tlie  next  morning 
there  would  be  the  same  profuse  display,  which  was 
continued  from  week  to  week. 

The  conditions  brought  about  by  covering  hem- 
lock boards  with  earth  soon  rotted  the  rafters,  and 
the  roof  began  to  fall  in,  which  forced  us  to  abandon 
the  project. 

There  was  no  difficulty  in  finding  a  market  for 
large  quantities ;  at  times  in  the  Winter  we  frequent- 
ly sold  them  at  one  dollar  a  quart  to  iiotels  and 
first-class  eating-houses. 

In  preparing  these  caves,  the  object  was  to  get 
all  that  Avas  required  for  the  best  growth  of  the 
Mushroom- -namely,  darkness,  ai'id  a  moderate  but 
even  temperature  of  from  forty-five  to  sixty  degrees. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  construct  a  cave  for  this  pur- 
pose ;  if  these  conditions  can  be  had  in  a  house,  cel- 
lar, or  part  of  a  green-house.  Mushrooms  can  be  pro- 
duced in  abundance,  by  following  the  directions 
about  collecting  and  preparing  the  manure. 

Pkeparing  Manure. — The  l)est  manure  is  horse- 
droppings,  gathered  from  stables  where  straw  is  used 
for  bedding,  but  free  from  long  straw.  Sawdust, 
salt,  hay,  and  rags  are  unfriendl}^  to  the  growth  of 
Mushrooms.  As  fast  as  these  droppings  are  collected, 
they  should  be  put  in  a  heap  four  feet  wide,  four  feet 
high,. and  as  long  as  required.  This  lieap  should  be 
made  under  cover.  In  a  few  days  the  manure  will 
begin  to  heat ;  this  should  be  allowed  to  go  on  until 


MUSHROOMS. 


175 


it  reaches  one  hundred  and  ten  degrees  to  one  hun- 
dred  and  fifteen  degrees,  as  indicated  by  a  thermo- 
meter when  the  bulb  is  placed  six  or  eight  inches 
below  the  surface.  Then  tramp  the  manure  down 
firmly  which  will  always  reduce  the  temperature. 
Wlien  cooled  by  this  compression  down  to  eighty 
degrees,  the  heap  should  be  turned  over  with  forks, 
putting  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  heap  well  into 
the  centre,  forming  a  heap  of  the  same  size.  In 
case  the  mamire  looks  dry,  it  may  be  wet  some  with 
a  watering-pot  at  the  time  of  turning.     The  heat  in 


MUSHROOM-BED. 

this  heap  will  soon  inc^rease  again  to  one  hundred  and 
ten  degrees,  when  it  should  be  once  more  tramped 
and  turned  over,  forming  a  new  heap.  This  may  be 
permitted  to  remain  without  tramping  until  the  tem- 
perature conies  down  to  ninety  degrees ;  if  it  d(^es 
not  in  two  days  from  the  time  of  the  last  turning  it 
must  be  again  treated  as  above ;  when  at  ninety 
degrees  it  is  ready  to  be  |)ut  in  place. 

Making   the  Bed. — The  beds  should  be  three 
feet  wide  at  the  bottom  and  two  feet  and  a  half  high, 


176  MtT^HROOMS. 

cone-shaped.  The  iiiannre  is  taken  np  in  large  hand- 
fnls  and  pressed  into  masses  of  fonr  or  live  inches  in 
diameter;  these  are  put  in  phiee  and  pressed  firmly 
against  each  other  until  the  l)ed  is  formed — the  in- 
crease is  by  the  addition  of  separate  tiers.  The  sides 
of  the  bed  are  then  beaten  slightly  with  the  back  of 
a  common  spade,  leaving  the  surface  smooth  and 
compact.  In  a  day  or  two  the  manure  will  take  heat ; 
if  it  goes  above  ninety  degrees  before  putting  in  the 
seed  it  should  be  allowed  to  cool  off,  wdiich  it  will  in 
a  few  days. 

A  light  coating  of  fine  garden  soil  is  then  put 
over  the  whole  bed,  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness. 
The  earth  should  be  passed  through  a  sieve  before 
using,  so  as  to  remove  lumps,  stones,  roots,  &c.,  &c., 
and  then  patted  down  with  a  spade  to  make  the  sur- 
face smooth. 

Spawn. — Mushroom  spawn  can  be  bought  at  most 
horticultural  stores.  It  usually  comes  in  pieces  of 
the  shape  and  size  of  an  ordinary  brick.  These 
bricks  should  be  broken  into  pieces  the  size  of  wal- 
nuts. By  means  of  a  garden  "  dibble"  holes  are 
made  on  either  side  of  the  bed  every  six  inches,  in 
the  direction  of  the  length,  connnencing  eight  inches 
from  the  floor.  A  piece  of  the  spawn  is  put  into 
each  of  these  holes,  coming  in  close  contact  with  the 
manure,  and  covered  over  with  earth,  or  it  may  be 
put  in  before  the  earth  is  put  on.  Tm^o  other  lines 
of  holes  are  made  at  corresponding  distances  above 
the  first  row,  and  spawned  in  the  same  way.  It  will 
take  three  or  four  weeks  l)efore  the  spawn  Avill  have 
traveled  over  the  entire  bed,  presenting  the  aj^pear- 


MUSHROOMS.  177 

ance  of  a  fine  gauze  network  through  the  manure, 
and  sometimes  visible  on  the  surface.  Five  or  six 
weeks  from  the  time  of  making  the  bed  small  button 
Mushrooms  will  appear,  if  all  the  points  have  been 
carefully  attended  to.  When  the  beds  begin  to  Ijear 
the  temperature  of  the  cave,  or  building,  should  l)e 
kept  steady  at  fifty-fiv^e  degrees.  A  small  amount  of 
water  is  needed ;  it  may  be  supplied  occasionally 
with  a  watering-pot  having  a  line  rose.  The  water 
used  should  be  a  few  degrees  above  the  cave,  say 
sixty  to  sixty-three  degrees. 

A  bed  prepared  in  the  way  described  will  produce 
Mushrooms  for  six  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
the  beds  should  be  renewed,  and  a  steady  supply  can 
be  had  through  the  wdiole  year.  It  is  not  absolutely 
necessary  that  the  beds  should  be  the  shape  named. 
If  circumstances  do  not  admit  of  it  they  may  be 
made  wider,  but  not  less  than  two  feet  in  thickness. 
As  stated  before,  the  important  point  is  the  careful 
preparation  of  the  manure. 

Gatuering. — In  gathering  the  left  hand  should  be 
placed  on  the  bed  along  side  of  the  Mushroom,  then 
with  the  right  hand  it  is  turned  and  pulled  at  the 
same  time.  In  this  way  less  injury  is  done  to  the  run- 
ning spawn,  and  the  bed  will  produce  more  than  if  the 
Mushrooms  are  jerked  out  without  tliis  precaution. 

In  our  caves  the  yield  was  one  quart  to  every  ten 
feet  daily.  These  sold  readily  at  from  seventy-hve 
cents  to  one  dollar  per  quart.  Even  at  lower  figures 
Mushrooms  would  pay  a  handsome  profit. 

Light  should  be  excluded  from  the  caves  at  all 
times,  but  ventilation  must  be  had  by  means  of  valves 


178  NASTTJETITIM,  OB   INDIAN   CRESS. 

on  tap.     Candles  or  lamps  should  be  used  to  give 
light  for  Avorking. 

Whatever  method  may  be  adopted  for  growing 
Mushrooms — and  there  are  many  in  common  prac- 
tice— constant  attention  is  recpiired  at  all  times  to  be 
successful  in  this  branch  of  gardening. 

NASTURTIUM,  OR    INDIAN   CRESS. 

Tropceohim  inajus. 

The  Nasturtium  is  a  hardy  aimual,  a  native  of 
Peru.  It  is  grown  in  gardens  as  an  ornamental  plant, 
while  at  the  same  time  the  leaves  and  flowers  are  used 
for  salads,  and  garnishing.  The  seed-vessels,  or  ber- 
ries, when  gathered  young,  on  a  dry  da^^,  and  put 
into  vinegar,  make  a  pickle,  preferred  by  many  per- 
sons to  Capers. 

The  Xasturtium-seed  should  be  planted  two 
inches  deep,  in  rows,  along  side  of  a  trellis,  or  other 
support,  in  April  or  the  beginning  of  May.  An 
ounce  of  seed  will  be  enough  for  twenty-five  or  thirty 
feet  of  row. 

For  covering  trellis-work,  unsightly  fences,  &c., 
&c.,  the  '"tall"  variety  should  be  sown  ;  for  forming 
borders  the  "  dwarf"  Nasturtium  is  the  best.  Some- 
times the  latter  requires  staking. 

Although  an  annual  when  grown  in  the  open  air, 
the  Nasturtium  is  a  perennial  when  grown  in  the 
green-house. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ONION. 

Allium  cejpa. 

The  Onion  is  well  known,  and  highly  prized  as  a 
garden  vegetable,  and,  as  a  field-crop,  is  extensively 
cultivated  in  many  sections  of  the  country. 

AVethersfield,  Conn.,  Narraganset  Sliores,  R.  I., 
and  Chester  Meadows,  New  York,  are  a  few  of  the 
districts  where  large  tracts  of  land  are  annually  de- 
voted to  the  cultivation  of  the  Onion. 

It  is  also  grown  largely  by  market-gardeners,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops,  when  the  "  sets  " 
are  planted  on  rich  ground. 

There  is  also  a  large  and  lucrative  business  car- 
ried on  near  Philadelpliia  in  growing  Onion  "  sets  " 
for  market.  Tliere  is  usually  a  good  demand  for 
them  at  prices  ranging  from  five  to  ten  dollars  per 
bushel  in  the  Spring  of  the  year. 

These  three  different  branches  of  the  Onion  busi- 
ness need,  to  some  extent,  different  methods  of  cul- 
ture. It  will  be  necessary,  therefore,  to  treat  them 
separately. 

Wlien  growTi  as  a  field-crop,  the  land  should  be 
le\'el,  com])arati^'ely  free  from  stones,  or  other  ob- 
structions, deep  and  mellow.  The  Onion  wn"ll  grow 
best  on  such  a  soil  when  well  drained^  either  natur 


180  ONIONS. 

ally  or  by  artificial  means.  Fall  ploughing,  throwing 
the  land  into  twelve-feet  ridges  is  advisable.  In  the 
Spring  an  application  of  twenty  to  thirty  two-horse 
loads  of  well-rotted  yard  or  hog-pen  manure,  are 
spread  broadcast  and  ploughed  under.  The  ground  is 
then  ploughed,  harrowed,  and  sometimes  levelled  with 
a  wooden  roller  before  sowing  the  seed.  An  applica- 
tion of  two  or  tliree  hundred  pounds  of  ground  bones 
to  the  acre  will  benefit  the  crop. 

The  seed  is  sown  in  drills,  one  foot  apart,  either 
for  field  or  garden,  by  a  machine,  using  four  pounds 
of  fresh  seed  to  an  acre.  To  insure  the  seed  being 
well  covered,  a  light  roller  is  drawn  by  hand  over 
the  ground,  in  the  direction  of  the  r(nvs.  By  mark- 
ing the  piece  with  the  garden-marker  and  then  sow- 
ing with  llolbrook's  seed-drill,  there  will  be  enough 
covering  Avithout  any  rolling. 

The  early  running  of  tlie  hand-hoes  between  the 
ro\A's,  is  the  only  way  to  do  in  gi'owing  Onions  for 
profit.  If  the  weeds  gain  headway,  the  cultivation 
will  cost  ten  times  what  it  otherwise  would.  As  soon 
as  the  rows  are  designated  by  the  young  plants,  keep 
the  scufiie  and  Onion-hoes  active  until  the  tops  are 
large  enough  to  give  shade.  Weeds  appearing  in  the 
lines  of  the  rows  nnist  be  removed,  before  they  at- 
tain any  size,  by  hand — the  boy  carrying  a  knife  with 
a  curved  point,  made  for  the  purpose.  The  seed 
sown  early  in  April,  the  crop  will  be  ready  to  harvest 
in  the  latter  part  of  August  or  the  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember. The  Onions  are  pulled  out  by  hand,  throw- 
ing three  or  four  rows  together  and  leavmg  them  in 
this  way  for  a  few  weeks,  until  they  are  dry  enough 


ONIONS.  181 

to  be  stored — wlien  they  are  gathered,  carted  and 
placed  on  a  barn  flour  or  loft  until  marketed.  If 
kept  over  Winter,  they  should  l)e  })rotected  l)y  a  cov- 
erinof  of  straw  or  salt  hay,  before  c(>ld  weatlier  sets 
in.  Onions  keep  l)etter  with  the  tops  left  on,  there- 
fore they  are  not  trinnned  till  a  few  days  before  sejid- 
ing  them  to  market. 

On  land  mamu-ed  and  well-worked.  Onions  will 
give  a  yield  of  Ave  hundred  l)ushels  to  the  acre,  and 
they  will  bring  from  iifty  cents  to  seventy-five  cents 
per  bushel.  For  the  last  few  years  prices  have  a\'er 
aged  higher.  They  are  worth  four  dollars  a  barrel, 
by  the  quantity,  at  present.  As  a  rule,  the  Onion  is 
grown  on  the  same  ground  every  year  and  it  does 
better  than  by  changing.  It  is  important,  therefore, 
to  prevent  any  weeds  from  seeding. 

In  growing  "  set  "  Onions,  the  ground  should  be 
of  a  light  character,  not  over  rich,  and  thoroughly 
pulverized.  The  object  is  to  get  a  large  yield  of 
very  small  Onions  ;  the  smaller  the  better,  for  if  they 
grow  much  larger  than  a  hickory  nut,  they  are  liable 
to  run  to  seed  instead  of  forming  a  bulb. 

When  the  ground  is  made  ready,  early  in  April, 
by  ploughing,  harrowing,  and  levelling  with  rakes — a 
line  is  stretched,  and  the  ])iece  marked  out  with  a 
garden-marker  in  rows  nine  inches  or  a  foot  apart. 
The  seed  is  then  put  in  by  a  seed-drill,  using  thirty- 
six  to  forty  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre.  Tlie  cultiva- 
tion is  all  done  with  hand-tools  in  the  same  way  as 
recommended  above  for  growing  Onions  as  a  field- 
crop.  IS^o  weeds  sliould  l)e  permitted  to  grow  either 
between  or  in  the  rows.     On  heavy  ground,  seed, 


1 82  ONious 

when  sown  thickly,  is  liable  to  "  damp  off  "  before 
coming  through  the  surface,  and  great  losses  are  some- 
times sustained  from  this  cause.  To  make  it  nK^re 
convenient  for  working,  eveiy  eighth  row  is  left 
blank ;  this  will  leave  the  young  "  sets "  in  narrow 
beds,  turning  the  l)lank  row  into  a  walk. 

These  sets  will  be  ripe  in  August ;  they  are  taken 
out  of  the  ground  and  left  on  the  rows  to  dry.  They 
are  then  placed  upon  a  loft,  not  more  than  eight  or 
ten  inches  in  thickness.  They  should  be  examined 
and  turned  occasionally,  for  if  the  weather  is  warm 
and  damp,  they  may  suffer  some  injury  from  rotting. 
When  cold  weather  sets  in,  we  put  on  a  light  cover- 
ing of  salt  hay  as  a  protection  from  the  frost.  A 
pound  of  seed  when  sown  thickly,  will  give  three  or 
four  bushels  of  "  Set "  Onions. 

The  market-gardener  plants  "sets"  instead  of  sow- 
ing seed,  on  ground  rich  enough  to  produce  early 
Cabbages,  using  from  fifty  to  seventy  two-horse  loads 
of  manure  to  the  acre,  turning  it  under  and  then  mak- 
ing the  surface  level.  The  rows  are  marked  out  one 
foot  apart,  the  "  sets "  distributed  along  each  row 
three  inches  apart,  and  firmly  pressed  in  place  by  hand, 
roots  downward.  This  done,  the  earth  is  dra^Ti  over 
the  rows  by  the  feet.  To  give  more  ease  in  cultiva- 
ting, every  eighth  row  is  left  blank,  for  a  passage-way. 

The  Onions  soon  start  a  vigorous  growth,  and  the 
gardener  is  just  as  vigorous  in  his  efforts  to  keep 
ahead  of  the  weeds,  by  disturbing  the  whole  surface 
before  the  weeds  appear,  and  often  enough  to  keep 
the  ground  loose  and  clean. 

It  will  take  from  eight  to  ten  bushels  of  "sets"  to 


ONIONS.  183 

plant  an  acre.  One  quart  will  be  sufficient  for  the 
kitchen-garden. 

The  gardener  usually  sells  his  crop  in  the  green 
state ;  it  will  be  ready  for  market  al)()ut  the  middle 
of  June.  The  Onions  are  pulled,  carried  to  the  mar- 
ket-house, Avashed,  and  then  bunched — in  different 
sized  bunches,  if  intended  for  different  markets.  For 
Xew  York,  from  six  to  eight  Onions  are  tied  in  one 
bunch  :  while  for  Newark,  N.  J.,  only  three,  and 
these  bring  from  one  dollar  and  lifty  cents  to  two 
dollars  per  hundred  bunches. 

Onions,  Avlien  grown  in  this  way,  are  taken  off  in 
time  to  plant  Celery  or  Spinach  in  the  same  ground. 
They  will  pay  a  profit  of  two  to  three  hundred  dollars 
an  acre.  They  are  a  very  sure  crop,  seldom  failing 
when  the  ground  is  rich  and  the  "  sets  "  small  at  the 
time  of  planting.  They  can  be  grown  from  "  sets " 
for  Winter  use,  and  kept  the  same  as  when  produced 
from  seed.  Many  of  the  most  successful  gardeners 
always  select  the  best  shaped  Onion  bulbs,  to  save  for 
seed  ;  by  following  this  plan,  there  are  no  disappoint- 
ments about  seed  not  coming  up  well,  and  no  getting 
a  variety  not  true  to  name. 

Seed  Onions  are  kept  through  the  Winter  in  the 
same  way  as  recommended  for  market  Onions. 

Early  in  the  Spring,  the  Onions  for  seed  are  set 
out  in  a  piece  of  rich  gnnmd  ;  two  feet  between  the 
rows,  two  inches  deep  and  six  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
When  the  seed-stalks  blossom,  they  sometimes  need 
to  be  supported,  to  prevent  them  from  falling  over. 
The  seed  will  be  ripe  in  July,  when  the  "heads"  are 
cut  off,  placed  on  a  tight  floor,  and  when  dry,  thrashed 
out. 


184 


ONIONS. 


Insects. — Occasionally,  Onion  growers  snffer  seri- 
ous loss  from  the  effects  of  the  Onion  Maggot 
{Anthomyia  ceparttm)^  a  small  fly  that  deposits  an 
egg  in  the  Onion  near  the  ground.  These  eggs  hatch 
in  a  short  time,  giving  the  maggot  and  then  the 
change  to  the  pupa  state,  from  which  comes  the  fly 
again.  Dusting  with  fresh  wood-ashes  is  said  by 
many  growers  to  be  a  preventive ;  or  burning  the 
surface  over  with  old  straw  before  sowing  the  seed, 


EARLY   RED. 


and  scattering  powdered  charcoal  with  a  dressing  of 
five  bushels  of  salt  to  the  acre. 

Although  we  have  grown  Onions  in  a  large  way 
for  many  years,  the  maggot  has  never  made  its  ap- 
pearance with  us.  I  am  inclined  to  think  the  insect 
is  a  near  relation  of  the  Anthomyia  hrassicce^  and 
that  dusting  the  plants  with  fresh  air-slacked  lime 
would  be  found  of  sei-vice ;  or  sowing  some  fine  fiour 
of  bone  in  the  rows,  still  better. 

Varieties. — There  is  a  long  list  of  Aarieties,  but 


ONIONS. 


185 


practical  Onion-growers  confine  themselves  to  a  few 
kinds  for  their  main  crop. 

Early  Red. — A  medium-sized  Onion,  very  early, 
lighter  in  color  than  the  Large  Red,  close  flesh  and  a 
good  keeper. 

AYethersfield  Large  Red  is  grown  as  a  field- 
crop,  extensively  in  the  Eastern  States,  especially  in 
Coimecticut.  It  attains  a  large  size — color  dark  red, 
rounding  in  shape,  and  has  good  keeping  qualities. 


WETHERSFIELP  LARGE   RED. 


Yellow  Danvers  is  a  good  variety  for  market- 
gardeners  to  grow  from  ''  sets,"  being  sujjerior  in 
many  respects  to  the  kind  commonly  grown  in  that 
wa}^,  and  known  as  the  Yellow  Dutch.  It  is  straw- 
color,  flesh  close,  and  keeps  as  well  in  Winter  as  any 
other  variety,  besides  being  more  productive  than  the 
Dutch. 


186 


ONIONS. 


YELLOW  DANVERS. 


White  Portugal. — This  is  a  very  mild  and  plea- 
santly flavored  white  variety,  and  on  this  account  is 
grown  generally  for  home  use.     It  is  more  tender 


WHITE  PORTUGAL. 


than  the  others  named,  and  it  does  not  keep  as  well 
during  the  AVinter. 

Potato    Onion    is   a   popular   variety  for   early 


OKRA,  OR  GUMBO.  187 

Spring  planting  in  private  gardens.  It  increases 
from  the  single  bulb  planted,  forming  a  number  of 
small  ones.  When  set  out  in  the  Spring,  in  rows 
one  foot  apart  and  three  inches  apart  in  the  row, 
they  give  a  supply  for  table  use  early  in  the  season. 
For  the  quantity  of  Onion-seed  to  sow  in  the  kitchen- 
garden,  see  "  List  of  Seeds  for  the  Garden." 


OKRA,   OR  GUMBO. 

Hibiscus  esGulentus. 

The  Okra  is  a  native  of  the  West  Indies,  where 
it  has  long  been  used  for  making  Gumbo  soup. 

It  is  grown  to  some  extent  in  private  gardens  in 


OKRA. 


the  Northern  States,  but  it  is  more  generally  culti- 
vated farther  south.  The  seed-pods,  when  green, 
are  used  in  stews,  soups,  &c.,  &c.     For  this  purpose. 


188  OKEAj  OR   GTJTVIBO. 

they  should  be  gathered  while  young  and  tender; 
for  when  the  pods  grow  older  and  harder,  they  are 
tongh  and  tasteless. 

We  have  been  successful  in  grooving  the  "  dwarf  " 
Okra  in  New  Jersey,  and  we  consider  it  the  best  mi- 
riety  to  plant. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  May,  in  rows  two  and 
a  half  feet  between  and  one  foot  apart  in  the  row. 
When  the  plants  are  well  above  the  ground,  lioe  care- 
fully, drawing  the  earth  towards  the  plants,  as  with 
Lima  Beans.  Okra  will  do  best  in  mellow,  rich 
ground.  The  pods  can  be  kept  for  Winter  use,  by 
slicing  them  and  tying  them  up  like  dried  apples. 
One  ounce  will  be  enough  for  family  use. 


CHAPTER  X 

PARSLEY. 

Ajpium  ^etroselhiur/i. 

The  garden  Parsley,  a  native  of  Srirdhiia,  is  a 
hardy  biennial  and  is  in  general  use  in  this  country 
for  garnishing,  flavoring  soups,  stews,  etc.,  (fee.  The 
peculiar  smell  of  Parsley  will  neutralize  the  odor 
given  to  the  breatli  by  eating  Onions. 

It  is  grown  to  a  limited  extent  by  market-garden- 
ers, either  in  frames  or  in  the  open  ground,  and  when 
there  is  a  demand,  it  pays  a  handsome  profit — but  as 
the  demand  is  uncertain,  gardeners  seldom  give  a 
large  space  to  its  culture. 

Parsley  will  do  best  in  a  deep,  rich  loam,  thor- 
oughly  pulverized  before  sowing  the  seed.  This 
should  be  done  in  April,  in  drills  one  foot  apart, 
strewing  the  seed  thickly,  and  covering  by  raking  the 
surface  with  wooden  rakes  in  the  lines  of  the  rows. 
The  seed  is  slow  to  germinate,  requiring  two  or  three 
weeks  before  sprouting.  A  few  Radish-seeds,  sown 
in  the  rows  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  Parsley-seed, 
will  mark  the  lines  so  that  a  scuffle-hoe  can  be  run 
through  before  the  weeds  start.  Later  in  the  season, 
the  tops  give  an  abundance  of  shade,  and  the  weeds 
can  be  kept  under  with  but  little  troul)le.  The  tops 
are  cut  off  in  June,  and  again  in  August  or  Septem- 


190 


PAKSLEV. 


ber,  when  a  new  growth  will  start  up.  During  Ko^ 
vember  the  Parsley  is  dug.  It  is  sometimes  "  heeled 
in  "  in  frames,  under  glass,  thickly  ;  or  it  is  stowed 
away  in  trenches  like  Celery.  A  still  more  rapid 
and  equally  good  method  is  to  "  pit "  it  in  the  way 
described  for  IIorse-Kadish,  raising  the  pit  only  two 
feet  high  and  keeping  the  tops  on  the  outside. 


DWARF  CURLED  PARSLEY. 


When  sown  in  frames,  the  seed  is  put  in  during 
the  early  part  of  April  in  rows  between  the  Lettuce, 
running  from  front  to  rear.  The  tops  will  be  ready 
for  cutting  in  June,  when  they  are  tied  in  small  bun- 
ules  and  sent  to  market.     They  are  cut  again  later  in 


PARSLEY.  191 

the  season,  in  September,  and  then  the  crop  is  dug  up 
and  stored  before  cold  weather  sets  in. 

One  ounce  of  fresli  seed  will  Ije  enough  for  home 
use.  This  will  sow  about  one  hundred  feet  of  row. 
\Vlien  sown  in  frames,  it  will  pay  about  two  dollars 
per  sash  and  to  the  extent  that  it  can  be  grown  in 
the  open  ground,  from  eight  hundred  dollars  to  one 
thousand  dollars  an  acre.  Last  Winter  one  of  my 
neighbors  sold  one  hundred  dollars'  w^orth  from  the 
twelfth  of  an  acre. 

In  preparing  Parsley  for  market,  it  is  washed 
and  then  tied  in  bunches,  four  or  live  stalks  in  each, 


SCUFFLE-HOE. 

leaving  all  the  roots  on.  The  Dwarf  Curled  is  the 
best  kind  for  the  garden. 

A  few  of  the  best  specimens  should  always  be 
^:ept  to  grow  seed  from  the  following  season.  Fresh 
r^eed  should  invariably  be  used,  as  old  seed  is  not  to 
1  e  relied  on. 

Hamburg  Parsley.— This  variety  is  plain-leaved, 
with  more  vigorous  habits  than  the  Dwarf  Curled  ; 
it  is  cultivated  for  the  roots,  which  frequently  grow 
on  rich  ground  to  the  size  of  medium  Parsnips.  They 
are  boiled  and  served  in  the  same  manner  as  Parsnips. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  drills  eighteen  inches 
apart,  and  when  the  plants  are  two  inches  high,  they 
must  be  thinned  out  to  three  inches  apart  in  the  row. 


192  PARSNIP. 

PARSNIP. 

Pastinaca  sativa. 

The  culture  of  this  vahiable  root  is  principally 
confined  to  the  kitchen  and  market-gardens.  It  is 
seldom  groAvn  in  this  country  as  a  farm-crop  for 
feeding  stock,  although  it  is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
list  for  this  purpose.  On  soil  free  from  stones  and 
in  good  heart,  Parsnips  will  yield  from  six  to 
eight  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre,  at  no  greater  ex- 
pense for  cultivation  than  is  required  for  a  crop  of 
Ruta  Bagas,  only  they  need  the  wliole  season  for 
maturing.  The  roots  are  perfectly  hardy ;  they  can 
be  left  in  the  ground  all  winter,  then  dug  and  fed  to 
cattle  in  the  Spring.  Or  a  portion  of  the  crop  can 
be  taken  out  and  pitted,  for  Winter  use,  the  same  as 
Carrots  (which  see). 

When  Parsnips  are  fed  to  milch  cows,  the  cpiality 
of  the  milk'  is  improved,  the  cream  is  much  richer, 
and  the  butter  of  finer  fiavor.  Young  stock  are  fond 
of  them,  and  they  will  be  found  superior  to  any  other 
root  for  fattening  both  neat-cattle  and  hogs. 

When  fresh  seed  is  sown,  the  plants,  while  grow- 
ing, need  less  attention  than  Carrots,  owing  to  the 
leaves  being  long  and  spreading,  giving  shade  which 
checks  to  some  extent  the  rapid  growth  of  weeds. 

Soil. — The  Parsnip  will  give  the  largest  yield  on 
a  deep,  rich,  sandy  or  clay  loam.  For  this  crop,  we 
plough  the  ground  in  ridges,  in  the  Fall ;  apply  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  two-horse  loads  of  well-rotted 
manure  in  the  Spring  and  plough  it  under.  For 
field-cidture,  the  treatment  is,  in  every  part,  similar 


PARSNIP. 


193 


to  that  described  for  (ViiTots,  with  the  single  excep- 
tion, that  tlie  seed  is  sown  in  April,  or  as  early  in 
the  Spring  as  tlie  gi-ound  is  dry 
enough  to  l)e  worked. 

A  few  Eadisli-seeds  sown  at  the 
same  time,  will  mark  tlie  lines,  so 
that  a  cultivator  can  he  run  throuo-h 
befoi-e  the  weeds  start.  AVhen  the 
plants  are  two  or  three  indies  high, 
they  should  be  thinned  out  by  liand, 
leaving  them  three  inches  apart  in 
the  row.  The  cultivation  we  d(^  witli 
a  mule  and  a  Carrot-weeder,  keep- 
ing the  surface  loose  and  free  from 
weeds,  with  very  small  outlay. 

We  use  four  to  live  pounds  of 
fresh  seed  to  an  acre,  and  sow  it  by 
machine.  Parsnip  seed  more  than 
one  year  old  cannot  be  trusted  ;  seed 
from  the  previous  year  should  always 
be  sown.  On  our  farm,  the  average 
yield  is  from  six  hundred  to  eight 
hundred  bushels  to  an  acre,  and  they 
are  usually  worth  fifty  cents  a  bushel, 
in  market,  when  trinnned  and 
washed.  At  times,  during  the  win- 
ter, when  the  supply  has  l)een  short, 
we  have  sold  at  prices  ranging  from 
two  dollars  to  four  dollars  [)er  bar- 
rel, holding  two  and  a  half  bushels. 

In  garden-culture,  the  rows  may 
be  left  nearer  together,    eighteen   inches   will  give 


LONG  SMOOTH 
PARSNIP. 


194:  PEAS. 

enough  space.  Two  ounces  of  seed  will  furnish  an 
abundance  for  family  use.  Owing  to  the  uncer- 
tainty of  the  seed  germinating,  it  is  better  to  sow 
thickly  and  thin  out  the  young  plants  to  three  inches 
apart. 

Wlien  digging  the  crop,  in  the  Fall,  careful 
gardeners  select  a  few  of  the  finest  specimens,  from 
which  to  grow  seed  the  follov>ang  year.  These  roots 
are  transplanted  into  good  ground  in  the  Spring,  and 
by  July  the  seed  will  mature.  In  field-culture,  when 
ready  to  harvest,  by  miming  a  large-sized  lifting 
sub-soil  plough  alongside  of  each  row,  the  expense 
of  getting  out  the  crop  will  l)e  lessened  at  least  one 
half. 

For  many  years  we  have  grown  the  Long  Smooth, 
or  "  Hollow  Crowned,"  and  consider  it  by  far  the 
best  variety  either  for  the  kitchen-garden,  market, 
or  as  a  field-crop  for  cattle.  When  labor-saving  im- 
plements are  used,  Parsnips  can  be  grown  at  an  ex- 
pense not  to  exceed  seventy  dollars  an  acre. 


PEA. 

Pismn  sativum. 

The  Pea  is  one  of  the  favorite  vegetables  culti- 
vated in  the  kitchen-garden  as  well  as  for  market,  in 
almost  every  section  of  this  country.  Green  Peas, 
half-grown,  when  properly  served,  are  a  much- 
esteemed  dish  with  most  persons. 

New  Jersey  and  Long  Island  have  long  been 
noted  for  producing  early  Peas  for  the  Xew  York 


PEAS.  195 

and  Philadelphia  markets,  and  on  the  kinds  of  soil 
where  they  were  grown,  they  were  a  profitable  farm 
crop.  Of  late  years,  since  the  close  of  the  war,  a 
large  share  of  this  business  lias  been  ti-ansferred  from 
its  original  quarters  to  Virginia  and  South  Carolina, 
where  it  is  now  carried  on  extensively  by  Southern 
gardeners,  who  ship  the  wIkjIc  of  their  crop  to 
Northern  markets.  These  southern-grown  Peas  from 
Charleston  reach  New  York  in  April  and  May,  and 
they  are  closely  followed  by  the  crop  from  Nor- 
folk, Ya.  These  early  arrivals  have  "  cut "  into 
the  old  business  sadly,  and  have  forced  many  grow- 
ers in  New  Jersey  to  abandon  Pea-growing,  for 
profit. 

The  Pea  flourishes  best  on  light  soil ;  it  can  be 
grown  with  less  manure  than  most  garden  crops. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Charleston,  S.  C,  fine  crops  of 
Early  Peas  have  been  produced  on  light,  sandy  soil? 
with  an  application,  in  the  drill,  of  three  hundred 
pounds  of  superphosphate  of  lime  to  the  acre. 

With  better  facilities  for  transportation  from 
Charleston,  the  culture  of  the  Pea  could  be  made  a 
profitable  business,  provided  growers  would  realize 
the  importance  of  careful  picking  and  packing, 
which  part  of  the  work,  so  far,  has  been  sadly 
neglected  by  many  gardeners.  "  What  is  worth 
doing,  is  worth  doing  Avell."  Of  this,  many  shippers 
of  S\)uthern  vegetables  seem  to  be  totally  ignorant, 
and  they  reap  the  reward  of  low  prices. 

In  the  kitchen  garden,  Peas  are  usually  "  brushed  " 
to  keep  the  vines  off  the  ground,  Init  in  field-culture 
the  vines  are  permitted  to  fall  down  after  the  last 


196  PEAS. 

ploughing,  wliicli  tliroAvs  a  shallow  furrow  from  either 
side,  towards  the  rows  of  vines.  In  the  field,  the 
rows  are  marked  out,  with  a  one-horse  plough,  three 
feet  apart,  the  manure  applied  in  the  furrow,  then 
the  seed  distributed  thiidy,  and  covered  l)y  hand- 
hoes.  The  cultivation  is  done  by  horse  tools,  going 
through,  may  be,  once  with  the  hand-hoes  to  take 
out  any  weeds  that  may  show  themselves  in  the  rows. 
One  bushel  and  a  quarter  of  seed  is  enough  for  an 
acre.  The  average  return  is  from  one  hundred  to 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  l)usliels  per  acre,  and 
gives  a  profit  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars. 

In  o-arden-culture,  to  save  time  in  "  lu'ushino^," 
Peas  are  sown  in  double  rows,  that  is,  two  rows  are 
put  in,  only  eight  inches  apart,  and  then  a  space  of 
two  feet  is  left  for  a  passage-way — one  line  of  brush 
will  support  the  two  rows. 

For  an  early  crop,  they  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
the  ground  can  be  worked.  A  slight  frost  does  not 
injure  the  vines.  We  have  frequently  had  young 
vines  covered  with  snow^,  early  in  A]u-il,  without 
suffering  any  harm. 

To  keep  the  table  well  supplied,  a  sowing  should 
be  made  every  two  or  three  weeks,  until  the  first  of 
July. 

When  planted  in  April,  the  early  or  main  crop 
will  be  ready  for  market  or  home  use  in  July,  in 
time  to  make  a  second  planting. 

Of  course,  the  times  of  sowing  will  depend  on 
the  locality.  In  South  Carolina,  Peas  are  sown  in 
December  and  January,  while  in  New  Jersey  they 


PEAS.  197 

ai-e  seldom  planted  before  the  first  of  April,  and 
some  seasons  as  late  as  the  middle  of  the  month.  A 
few  years  ago  my  brothers  shipped,  from  Charles- 
ton, Peas  on  the  fourteenth  of  April,  and  they 
reached  ^^c^7  York  when  we  were  sowing  our  early 
cr6p. 

AVitli  Peas,  the  list  of  varieties  is  a  long  one — 
but  tliere  are  a  few  welbknown  kinds  that  are  gen- 
eral favorites. 

PiiiLADELPuiA  Extra  Early  is  tlie  best  early 
variety  that  we  have  tested,  both  for  garden  and  field- 
culture.  It  is  more  productive,  of  better  quality, 
and  several  days  earlier  than  the  Daniel  O'Rourke, 
when  phuited  along  side,  and  with  the  same  treat- 
ment. 

Daniel  O'Eourke. — The  vines  of  this  kind  will 
not  average  more  tliau  two  feet  high.  It  has  been  a 
favorite  market  variety,  because  all  the  pods  fill  out 
about  the  same  time,  enabling  the  gardener  to  gather 
the  crop  in  two  or  three  pickings. 

Tom  TiirMB  is  grown  in  private  gardens  on 
account  of  its  requiring  no  "  brushing."  The  vines 
only  grow  about  eight  or  ten  inches  high.  The 
yield  is  lai-ge,  but  the  Peas  are  of  medium  quality. 
A¥e  sow  this  kind  late,  and  it  does  equally  well  as 
when  sown  early. 

McLean's  Little  Gem  is  in  habits  similar  to  the 
Tom  Thumb,  but  in  quality  far  superior. 

Bishop's  Long  Pod  is  a  favorite  sort  in  many 
sections  for  family  use.  The  pods  are  large  and 
abundant.  The  vines  are  not  inclined  to  grow  very 
tall.     It  is  a  good  variety  to  follow  the  early  kinds. 


198  PEPPERS. 

Champion  of  England,  an  old  and  well-known 
Pea,  is  without  doubt  the  best  late  variety  gro^\^l. 
The  vines  grow  horn  three  to  four  feet  high,  and 
require  "  brushing,"  to  keep  them  from  the  ground. 

Black  and  White  Marrowfats  are  also  tall- 
growing  sorts.  They  are  still  planted  extensively 
for  late  market  varieties,  and  for  this  purpose  are 
highly  esteemed. 

Blue  Imperial  is  a  first  quality,  late  variety,  and 
has  a  delicate  flavor  when  gathered  before  the  Peas 
have  grown  full  size.  This  remark  can  be  applied 
to  every  variety  of  Pea  cultivated. 

A  couple  or  three  quarts  of  as  many  of  the  vari- 
eties, sown  in  succession,  will  keep  the  table  abund- 
antly supplied  with  this  delicious  vegetable. 

PEPPER. 

Capsicum. 

The  Pep]ier  is  cultivated  to  some  extent  in  private 
gardens  and  quite  extensively  as  a  market  crop,  very 
frequently  by  contract  for  pickle  factories.  Altlujugh 
prices  are  generally  low  when  contracted  for,  the 
yield  is  so  large,  when  the  crop  does  well,  that  a 
large  profit  is  often  realized  from  the  sale  of  Pep- 
pers. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed  in  March, 
giving  the  plants  the  same  treatment  as  Egg  Plants, 
with  this  exception,  they  need  not  be  transplanted, 
but  they  may  be  left  in  the  seed-bed  until  they  are 
removed  to  the  open  ground  in  June. 

There  is  little  or  no  deniand  for  Peppers  in  mar- 


PEPPERS.  199 

ket  until  late  in  the  Fall,  so  there  is  nothing  gained 
by  having  them  before  October.  They  will  grow 
best  on  a  rich,  moist  loam,  inclining  to  lightness,  al- 
though they  will  yield  bountifully  on  any  w^ell-pre- 
pared  soil. 

In  the  garden  or  field,  they  may  be  set  out  with 
the  "  dibble,"  in  the  same  way  as  Cabbage  plants, 
about  the  middle  of  June,  leaving  two  feet  between 
the  rows,  and  the  plants  eigliteen  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  The  ground  should  be  kept  loose  and  clean 
by  frerpient  disturbances  of  the  soil. 

A  dozen  plants  will  be  enough  in  a  garden  for 
family  use.  These  can  be  bought  from  some  gar- 
dener, near  by,  cheaper  than  they  can  be  raised. 

Unless  for  pickle  factories,  the  demand  in  market 
is  limited ;  but  to  the  extent  that  they  are  wanted, 
it  is  profitable  t(^  grow  them.  They  will  usually  sell 
from  seventy-five  cents  to  one  dollar  per  liundred  ; 
this  would  be  at  the  rate  of  four  to  five  hundred 
dollars  per  acre. 

Yarieties. — There  are  only  a  few  kinds  grown  in 
this  country. 

Sweet  Mountain  is  of  large  size,  similar  in  shape 
to  the  Bell,  but  milder.  It  is  used  for  making  man- 
goes. 

BuLL-XosE,  OR  Bell,  is  large,  slightly  tapering, 
rather  mild,  and  desirable  for  pickling.  It  matures 
early  and  bears  abundantly. 

Squash. — This  variety  is  different  in  shape  from 
the  above.  It  is  more  and  deepl}^  ribbed,  stronger 
to  the  taste  than  the  other  twx),  and  used  extensively 
for  pickling. 


200  POTATOES. 

Cayenne. — This  is  a  small  variety,  the  fruit  long 
and  tapering,  bright  red  when  ripe,  and  very  strong. 
It  does,  when  ground  furnish  the  pepper  of  com- 
merce. 


POTATO. 

Solammi  tuberosum. 

From  each  successive  year's  experience,  the 
shrewd  farmer  draws  a  pi-actical  lesson,  wliich,  if 
properly  applied,  will  materially  assist  in  making  liis 
special  calling  a  success.  Tliere  is  very  little  to  be 
made  in  farming  or  gardening  by  the  game  of  chance, 
or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  "good  luck,"  but  in- 
dustry well  directed,  will  eventually  be  rewarded, 
while  carelessness  and  mismanagement  are  just  as 
certain  to  reap  their  reward. 

Every  branch  of  industry  has,  from  various 
causes,  to  battle  against  a  "Idue"  season,  and  farm- 
ing or  gardening  forms  no  exception  to  the  rule.  At 
present,  farm  wages  are  high,  with  no  indications  of 
any  change  for  the  better.  My  neighbor  asks, "  IIow^, 
under  existing  (urcumstances,  are  farmers  to  make 
ends  meet  ?  "  My  reply  is,  substitute  horse  for  hand- 
labor,  adopt  better  methods  of  culture,  concentrate 
the  work  and  manure  on  fewer  acres,  so  as  to  pro- 
duce maximum  crops,  and  by  these  means  lessen  the 
cost  per  bushel  of  producing.  The  expense  of  (titi- 
vating is  the  same,  whether  the  yield  is  one  hundred 
or  three  hundred  bushels  of  Potatoes  to  the  acre. 

The  Potato  crop  is  an  impoi-tant  one  in  every 
State  and  Territory  in  this  country.     Two  hundred 


I>OTATOES.  201 

bushels  to  the  acre  is  not  a  large  return  from  well- 
fertilized  and  properly  tilled  ground  ;  still  we  find 
that  the  average  crop  of  the  country  is  not  quite  one 
hundred,  even  in  favorable  seasons.  Taking  the 
price  of  Potatoes  at  seventy-five  cents  per  bushel,  by 
adopting  better  methods  of  culture,  the  increased 
value  in  the  United  States  of  this  crop  alone  would 
amount  to  over  seventy-five  millions  of  dollars  a  year. 

Although  the  price  of  Potatoes  has  only  advanced 
a  trifie  within  the  past  ten  years,  and  farm  wages 
and  other  farm  expenses  have  nearly  doubled,  yet  I 
feel  confident  tliat  I  can  make  as  much  per  acre  now, 
cultivating  Potatoes,  as  in  ISGO  ;  simply  by  making 
use  of  the  metliods  named,  and  planting  varieties  of 
Potatoes  that  are  more  productive  than  the  Mercer 
or  Prince  Albert.  There  is  no  system  of  farming  so 
perfect  as  not  to  be  susceptible  of  improvement:  and 
the  intelligent  farmer  is  always  ready  to  make  a 
change  or  follow  a  new  method  of  culture,  when  it 
is  e\  ident  that,  by  so  doing,  he  will  increase  the  pro- 
duct per  acre  or  lessen  the  expense  of  producing. 

Our  method  of  cultivating  Potatoes,  which  has 
given  entii-e  satisfaction  for  the  last  three  years,  is 
substantially  as  follows.  The  ground,  which  is  a 
heavy  clay,  and  naturally  very  poor,  is  Fall-ploughed, 
throwing  it  into  "  lands  "  about  twenty  feet  wide,  and 
left  in  this  state  until  Spring.  When  the  soil  is  dry 
enough  to  be  worked,  in  April,  it  has  a  second  plough- 
ing, crosswise — never  turning  the  soil  less  than  ten 
inches  deep.  The  manure  is  then  spread  broadcast  on 
the  surface,  the  quality  of  the  soil  regulating  the  quan- 
tity.    Iiowe\er,  we  seldom  use  less  than  twenty  two- 


202  l»OTATOfiS. 

horse  loads  of  barn-j^ard  manure  or  compost  to  each 
acre.  When  fish  guano  is  used,  it  is  mixed  with  soil 
for  a  week  or  two  before  planting-time,  and  then 
spread  over  the  surface  at  the  rate  of  from  three- 
quarters  to  a  ton  to  the  acre.  AVhen-  barn-yard  man- 
ure is  used,  the  ground  is  harrowed  before  spreading 
the  manure  and  with  special  fertilizers,  such  as  phos- 
phate, bone-dust,  or  guano ;  the  harrowing  is  done  after 
applying  the  manure,  giving  the  ground  only  one 
"  scrape,"  to  level  the  surface.  We  change  the  seed 
every  two  years.  For  seed,  I  prefer  large-sized  Po- 
tatoes, cut  into  two,  three,  and  four  pieces,  a  fort- 
night at  least  before  planting,  and  then  dusted  with 
wood-ashes.  This  I  have  done  in  wet  or  inclement 
weather  during  the  month  of  March,  when  the  men 
cannot  work  to  advantage  out  of  doors.  With  every- 
thing in  readiness  for  planting,  the  seed  Potatoes  are 
put  into  barrels,  carted  to  the  field  and  placed  at 
convenient  distances  across  the  lot,  so  that  the  per- 
sons "  dropping "  will  lose  no  time  and  waste  no 
strength  in  carrying  the  Potatoes  from  one  end  of  the 
field  to  the  other.  This  may  appear  trifling,  but  I 
find,  w^hen  this  plan  is  carried  out,  the  work  goes  on 
more  rapidly,  and  two  persons  will  drop  as  much  as 
three,  when  no  system  is  practised.  From  the  effects 
of  the  Fall  ploughing,  the  alternate  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing during  AYinter,  and  with  a  ploughing  in  Spring,  the 
ground  will  turn  up  kind  and  mellow,  just  in  the 
right  tilth  for  planting.  The  Potatoes  are  put  in  at 
the  third  ploughing,  in  the  following  manner.  Com- 
mencing at  one  side  of  the  field,  twenty  oi  thirty 
feet  from  the  fence,  the  ploughman  with  his  horses 


POTATOES.  203 

strikes  a  straight  fnrro^v  and  returns  with  a  back  fur- 
row. On  the  second  time  around,  the  droppers  follow 
the  plough,  placing  the  Potatoes  from  fifteen  to  eigh- 
teen inches  apart  in  the  loose  ground  just  turned 
over,  and  in  a  position  so  that  the  next  furrow-slice 
will  cover  the  seed  about  four  inches  deep.  The  fur- 
row-slices will  average  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in 
width,  and  the  seed  is  planted  in  every  third  furrow 
on  either  side  of  the  starting-point ;  this  will  leave 
the  rows  of  Potatoes  about  three  feet  apart.  This  is 
w^ide  enough  to  admit  a  horse-hoe  for  cultivating 
during  the  early  stages  of  growth.  By  the  system 
of  back-furrowing  there  is  no  time  wasted,  either  by 
the  persons  dropping  or  the  man  with  the  plough.  We 
employ  two  German  women,  who  drop  as  fast  as  the 
two  horses  will  plough  the  ground  and  cover  the  Pota- 
toes. Oil  loose,  mellow  soil,  this  force  will  plant,  on 
an  average,  two  acres  a  day,  working  ten  hours.  In 
this  way,  the  soil  is  left  in  better  condition  to  facili- 
tate the  growth  of  the  young  Potatoes  than  by  any  of 
the  nietliods  in  general  use,  that  1  have  heretofore 
practised  in  growing  Potatoes  for  market.  The  seed 
is  placed  in  the  side  of  the  furrow-slice,  and  is  not 
displaced  by  the  horse  that  walks  in  the  furrow.  Oc- 
casionally the  i)lough  is  thrown  out  by  the  point  strik- 
ing a  stone,  and  one  or  two  of  the  seed  left  without 
covering,  but  in  the  next  time  around,  this  can  be  re- 
paired and  the  seed  properly  covered. 

With  a  very  little  })ractice,  the  ploughman  will  run 
each  furrow  as  straight  as  a  "  bee-line."  I  never 
have  had  roAvs  of  Potatoes  come  up  more  evenly  than 
for  the  past  three  years,  when  planted  in  this  way. 


204  POTATOES. 

Another  method  is,  Avhen  the  ground  is  ready  to 
open  the  furrow  with  a  one-horse  })lough,  spreading 
the  manure  in  the  furrow ;  then  the  Potatoes  are 
dropped  in  place  along  the  bottom  of  the  furrow, 
and,  by  means  of  the  plough  again,  are  covered  about 
three  inches  deep.  When  the  young  stocks  are  just 
coming  through  the  surface,  the  field  is  harrowed, 
running  the  harrow  in  the  line  of  the  rows.  We  use 
for  this  purpose  a  blunt-toothed  harrow,  which  levels 
the  surface,  destroys  the  first  crop  of  young  weeds, 
and  as  far  as  I  am  capable  of  observing,  does  no  in- 
jury to  the  Potatoes.  I  am  aware  that  many  Po- 
tato-growers condemn  the  harrow  for  this  purpose,  as 
doing  more  liarm  than  good.  When  I  am  convinced 
that  this  is  the  fact,  I  Avill  at  once  abandon  its  use 
and  adopt  some  other  improved  implement  to  do  the 
same  kind  of  work. 

When  the  young  plants  are  well  above  the  sur- 
face, I  run  Howe's  horse-hoe  or  Perry's  Scarifier 
between  the  rows,  going  twice  in  each  space,  and  as 
close  to  the  stocks  as  it  is  possible,  without  cutting 
them.  This  operation  is  repeated  once  at  least  every 
two  weeks,  until  the  Potatoes  come  into  blossom, 
when  the  cultivation  is  stopped.  Sometimes  a  few 
heavy  showers  of  rain  will  compact  and  harden  the 
surface  ;  in  such  a  case,  we  use  Mapes'  one-horse 
lifting  sub-soil  plough  to  run  once  in  the  middle,  be- 
tween the  rows,  and  loosen  the  soil  three  or  four 
inches  deep.  Our  plan  is  to  prepare  the  soil  thor- 
oughly before  planting,  and  then,  daring  the  grow- 
ing season,  to  keep  merely  two  or  three  inches  of  the 
surface  loose  and  free.     There  is  little  or  no  hard 


I'OTATOES  205 

labor  required  by  following  this  system  of  culture, 
lu  an  ordinary  season,  the  horse-tools  will  do  all  the 
work  necessary  to  keep  the  surface  loose  and  free 
from  weeds.  I  make  it  a  rule,  however,  to  go 
through  the  field  once  with  the  hand-hoes,  cutting 
out  any  weeds  that  may  be  growing  in  the  inies  of 
the  rows  where  the  horse-tools  cannot  reach.  Under 
good  management,  Potatoes  should  be  kept  free  from 
weeds  and  grass,  until  they  are  in  full  blossom. 
After  this  date,  cultivation  may  be  suspended,  for 
any  Aveeds  that  may  then  come  up,  do  little  or  no 
injury  to  the  crop.  The  stalks  shade  the  ground  so 
tliat  the  growth  of  weeds  is  sparse  ;  although  it  is 
often  advisable  to  have  some  scattering  tall  weeds 
pulled  by  hand,  before  the  Potatoes  are  dug. 

In  cultivating  early  varieties  of  Potatoes  on  strong 
ground,  they  can  be  harvested  in  time  to  get  a  crop 
of  Turnips  off  the  same  i>:round,  which  mav  Drove  as 
profitable  as  the  crop  of  Potatoes. 

We  grow  on  our  farm  from  one  thousand  to  one 
thousand  five  hundred  bushels  of  Potatoes  a  year 
for  market.  During  the  past  ten  years  we  have  sold 
none  less  than  seventy-five  cents  per  bushel,  by  the 
quantity,  and  a  large  proportion  of  them  would 
average  one  dollar  a  bushel. 

On  ground  well  manured  and  tilled,  two  hundred 
bushels  of  marketaljle  Potatoes  to  the  acre  is  about 
an  average  crop  in  our  section  ;  these  are  worth  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five  dollars.  Deducting  the 
expense,  there  is  left  from  one  hundred  to  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars.  With  early  Po- 
tatoes, harvested  in  time  to  sow  a  Fall  crop  of  Yel- 
10 


206  POTATOES. 

low  Stone  Turnips,  which  often  yield  as  much  as  the 
Potatoes,  there  will  be  a  net  from  both  crops  of 
about  two  hundred  dollars  an  acre.  Last  Summer 
we  dug  fi'om  an  acre  of  Early  Rose,  one  hundred 
and  ten  barrels,  and  sold  them  at  three  dollars  and 
twenty-five  cents  per  barrel,  for  table  use. 

Harvesting. — Although  we  have  tested  numer- 
ous Potato-digging  machines,  there  is  none  that  has 
given  us  satisfaction.  We  still  hold  to  the  old 
method  of  removing  the  stalks,  then,  with  a  plough, 
throwing  a  furrow  away  from  either  side  of  the  row, 
and  turning  out  the  Potatoes  with  the  digging-fork. 
By  this  method  a  man  can  easily  get  out  thirty 
bushels  a  day,  at  an  expense  of  from  five  to  six  cents 
a  bushel. 

Storing  Potatoes. — Potatoes  for  table  use  should 
be  stored  in  a  cool,  dry,  dark  cellar.  They  will 
keep  better  if  a  small  quantity  of  soil  is  mixed  in 
with  them  at  the  time  of  putting  them  away.  When 
Potatoes  are  left  exposed  to  the  sunlight,  they  soon 
turn  green,  a  bitter  principle  is  evolved,  and  when 
cooked,  they  have  a  nauseating  and  unpleasant  taste. 
Every  observing  farmer  knows  that  it  often  happens, 
either  fi'om  the  washing  away  of  the  earth,  or  from 
careless  hoeing,  that  a  portion  of  the  Potatoes  in  a 
"  hill  "  is  left  exposed  to  the  light.  These  Potatoes 
soon  change  color,  and  are  worthless  for  table  use. 
This  kind  of  exposure  also  hastens  decay,  no  matter 
where  the  Potatoes  are  kept.  Even  Avhen  purchased 
for  family  use,  in  small  quantities,  say  a  barrel  or  a 
bushel  at  a  time,  they  should  be  kept  in  a  dark 
corner  of  the  cellar. 


poTAToi:s.  207 

TARiEtrRS. — There  is  a  long  catalogue  of  varie- 
ties of  Potatoes,  many  of  which  have  only  a  local 
reputation.     The  old  favorite  Mercer  is  no  longer 


EARLY   ROSE. 


cultivated  to  any  extent.     The  Carter,  too,  has  passed 
away,  with  twenty  other  kinds  that  once  were  popu^ 


208 


POTATOES. 


lar.  The  seedlings  of  the  late  Professor  Goodrich 
are  quietly  dropped  from  the  approved  lists  for  gen- 
eral culture,  and  their  places  filled  by  other  and  more 
promising  sorts.  How  long  these  varieties  will  hold 
their  place  in  public  estimation  experience  only  can 
tell. 

We  give  six  illustrations  of  Potatoes,  the  repre- 
sentative sorts  for  the  different  seasons,  and  good 
types  of  their  kinds. 


DYKEMAN. 

Among  the  most  popular  early  varieties  may  be 
named  the 

Early  Pose,  a  seedling  introduced  by  Mr. 
Breese,  of  Yermont.  With  three  years'  trial  it  has 
attained  a  national  reputation.  It  is  well  worthy  of 
it,  for  it  is  the  best  early  vaiiety  that  we  have  at  ])res- 
ent,  either  for  family  use  or  for  market. 

The  Pose  is  a  large-sized  Potato,  smooth  skin,  few 
eyes^  ileali  white,  and  steams  or  boils  mealy. 


POTATOES. 


209 


Dykeman  is  an  old  standard,  cultivated  by  Long 
Island  gardeners  extensively  for  the  New  York 
market. 


PEERLESS. 

Peerless  is  more  productive  and  larger  than  the 
Early  Kose,  equal  to  it  in  quality,  and  is,  for  a  late 
variety,  what  the  Hose  is  for  the  early. 


210  POTATOES. 

Peach  Blow  has  always  been  a  favorite,  and  a 
standard  of  excellence  in  qnalitj.  It  is  a  large, 
ronnd  potato,  takes  the  whole  season  to  mature,  and 
is  difficult  to  boil  evenly  on  account  of  its  shape.  It 
is  also  subject  to  the  rot. 


PEACH    BLOW. 

Gleason  is  a  seedling  of  the  Garnet-Chili.  It 
grows  large,  roundish,  and  has  a  peculiar  roughness 
of  skin,  by  which  it  can  always  be  distinguished.  It 
is  a  late  variety  and  of  good  quality. 

Kidney. — Medium  size,  productive,  of  fine  qual 


POTATOES.  "  211 

ity  for  home  use.     It  keeps  well,  retaining  its  good 
quality  through  the  Winter. 

Jackson  White  is  cultivated  extensively,  as  a  late 
variety,  for  market.  It  is  long,  the  eyes  deeply  set, 
quality  good  when  grown  on  dry  ground. 


GLEASON. 


Early  Mohawk  is  an  early  variety,  recently  in- 
troduced, very  productive,  but  inferior  in  quality — 
about  equal  to  the  Harrison  for  cooking. 

Insects. — The  Potato  is  liable  to  the  attacks  of 
various  insects,  both  in  the  foliage  as  well  as  the 


^12 


POTATOES. 


tubers.  For  a  number  of  years  2>ast  the  English 
wire- worm  has  seriously  injured  the  Potatoes  in  Xew 
Jersey.     The  grub  feeds  upon  the  young  tubers,  dis- 


KIDNEY. 


figuring  them  so  much  as  to  make  theui  imsalable. 
The  grub  of  the  Elaters,  that  injures  the  Potato,  is 
long  and  slender,  having  a  hard,  smooth  skin,  of  a 


rr;TATOES. 


213 


brownish  yellow  color,  and,  according  to  Harris,  lives 
in  its  feeding  state  live  years. 

An  application  of  ashes  has  been  recommended 
as  a  remedy  ;  bnt  we  have  not  fonnd  it  to  be  of  any 
service.  Eape  cake,  broken  into  small  pieces  and 
scattered  in  different  places  through  the  field,  attracts 


COLORADO   POTATO   BUG. 

the  grubs  ;  they  collect  to  feed   upon  it,  and  large 
numbers  may  be  destroyed. 

The  Colorado  l*otato  bug  {Boryphora  decein- 
lineata)^  has  been  doing  mischief  in  the  West,  but  it 
has  not  reached  Xew  Jersey  or  any  of  the  Eastern 
States.  These  bugs  appear  in  great  numbers,  destroy- 
ing all  the  foliage  and  injuring  the  crop  very  serious- 
10^ 


214:  JERUSALEM   ARTICHOKE. 

ly.  Dusting  with  powdered  White  Hellebore  is  said 
to  check  them.  A.  D.  Compton  recommends  a  sohi- 
tion,  made  of  one  part  salt,  ten  of  soap,  and  twenty 
of  water,  for  syringing  the  vines  and  effectually 
checking  the  biigs. 

A  correspondent  of  the  Farmers'  Club  recom- 
mends one  j^art  of  Paris  green  and  twenty  parts  of 
flour  of  bone,  mixed  and  sifted  on  the  vines,  an  ex- 
cellent remedy.  One  pound  of  the  green  will  be 
enough  for  an  acre. 

The  directions  given  for  the  field  management  of 
Potatoes  can  easily  be  adopted  in  garden-culture. 

One  bushel  of  seed  will  yield  about  twenty  bush- 
els of  Potatoes,  if  planted  on  good  ground  and  well 
tended. 

JERUSALEM     ARTICHOKE. 

Helianthus  tuherosits. 

The  Jerusalem  Artichoke,  or  the  tuber-bearing 
Sunflower,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is  a  hardy 
perennial,  a  native  of  Brazil,  the  roots  of  which,  in 
this  country,  are  principally  used  for  pickling. 

A7hen  once  this  plant  takes  possession  in  the 
garden  or  field,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  eradicate  it. 
It  continues  to  grow  from  year  to  year  in  the  same 
spot ;  no  matter  with  what  care  the  tubers  have  been 
taken  out,  there  will  be  enough  left  to  produce  a 
crop  the  following  year. 

On  this  account  it  is  an  unpopular  plant  for 
garden-culture,  for  in  a  few  years  it  would  over-run 
everything  else. 

It  will  grow  on   very  poor  soil,  and  could  with 


PUMPKINS. 


215 


advantage  be  planted  in  waste  ground ;  along  the 
fences  (instead  of  briars) ;  in  the  orchard ;  and  in  the 
Fall  the  pigs  will  feed  and  thrive  upon  the  tuber. 
Even  on  thin  light  soil  the  Jerusalem  Artichoke  will 
yield  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  bushels  to 
the  acre,  and  can  be  grown  with  profit,  for  feeding 
hogs  and  cattle.  The  tubers  are  not  injured  by 
freezing,  and  are  quite  as  nutritive  as  the  Potato.  It 
is  propagated  by  planting,  in  rows  two  and  a  half 
feet  apart,  and  two  feet  in  the  row,  medium-sized 
tubers,  and  covering  them  with  three  or  four  inches 
of  soil. 

In  the  Fall,  the  tubers  that  are  wanted  for 
Winter  use  may  be  dug  up  and  kept  during  the 
"Winter  in  a  cellar,  covered  with  sand. 

Two  quarts  of  tubers  planted  in  some  convenient 
spot  outside  of  the  garden,  w411  give  enough  for 
family  use. 

PUMPKIN. 

Ciocurhita  ];)epo. 

There  are  innumeral)le  variet}^  of  Pumpkins,  but 
only  a  few  of  them  are  worthy  of  cultivation.  None 
of  them  should  ever  be  planted  in  the  garden.  By 
the  traN'el  of  the  farina  fecunda  of  the  Pumpkin, 
Melons,  Cucumbers  and  Squashes  will  be  hybridized 
and  spoiled  after  the  first  year. 

Tlie  Pumpkin  rightly  belongs  in  the  field,  and 
under  o^ood  care  bears  abundantlv,  and  furnishes  a 
large  amount  of  palatable  food  for  cows,  pigs,  cfec, 
(fee. 


216  PUMPKINS. 

Thej  are  used  more  extensively  for  pies.  Grocers 
usually  lay  in  a  large  stock  of  the  Cheese  Pumpkin 
in  the  Fall,  to  supply  their  customers  with  Country 
Pumpkins  during  the  Winter. 

They  may  l)e  grown  on  waste  land  when  manured 
in  the  hill  (for  they  are  rank  feeders),  planted  eight 
feet  apart  each  way  any  time  in  May.  They  are 
generally  planted  among  Corn.  The  Cheese  Pump- 
kin is  the  best  for  this  purpose. 


CHAPTER  XL 

RADISHES. 

Mhaphanus  sativus. 

The  Radish  is  a  general  favorite  with  all  classes. 
it  is  found  in  all  well-managed  private  gardens,  and 
early  in  the  Spring  it  is  grown  extensively  by  market- 
gardeners  in  the  vicinity  of  large  cities.  For  the 
first  Radishes  that  reach  market,  the  seed  is  sown  in 
hot-beds  in  January  or  February,  and  they  are  ready 
for  use  early  in  March.  Gardeners  who  have  put 
up  "  forcing-houses  "  within  the  last  two  years  near 
ISTew  York,  devote  a  portion  of  the  tables  to  forcing 
Radishes,  and  find  them  to  be  as  profitable,  to  the 
extent  of  the  demand,  as  Lettuce.  They  give  a 
profit  of  about  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  a  sash, 
3x6,  for  each  crop,  and  occupy  the  space  only  six 
or  seven  weeks,  while  it  takes  nine  weeks  for  a  crop 
of  Lettuce. 

Early  Radishes  are  shipped  from  Norfolk  to  New 
York  ;  they  usually  bring  high  prices — four  to  six 
dollars  per  hundred  bunches,  or  from  eight  to  ten 
dollars  per  barrel. 

The  Radish,  like  most  of  the  vegetables,  will 
grow  best  on  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam.  It  must  have 
a  rapid  growth  to  be  of  fine  quality. 

There  are  several  methods  practised  by  garden- 


218  RADISHES. 

ers  in  growing  Eadishes.  We  always  sow  the  seed 
thinly  in  the  rows  with  early  Beets  and  Carrots.  The 
Radishes  are  pulled  and  sold  before  the  Beets  or  Car- 
rots need  the  room,  and  at  tlie  same  time  it  gives  us 
a  chance  to  cultivate  these  crops  earlier  than  we 
otherwise  could.  This  plan  can  be  just  as  well  fol- 
lowed in  the  private  garden ;  and  by  sowing  a  few 
Radish-seeds  in  the  rows  with  each  "  row-crop " 
planted,  the  table  can  be  kept  supplied  with  young 
Radishes  during  the  season. 

On  Long  Island,  the}^  frequently  devote  the  whole 
field  to  Radishes,  sowing  the  seed  broadcast  and  har- 
rowing it  in,  or  in  rows  one  foot  apart,  using  about 
five  pounds  of  seed  to  the  acre.  This  crop  is  taken 
off  in  full  time  to  prepare  the  ground  for  a  crop  of 
late  Cabbages. 

Of  late  years,  the  profits  from  growing  Radishes 
have  not  been  large.  It  is  considerable  trouble  to 
prepare  them  for  market,  especially  the  long  Scarlet, 
making  the  flat  bunches,  washing,  &c.,  &c.  AVith  a 
good  crop,  Radishes  seldom  pay  more  than  one  hun- 
dred to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  an  acre.  We 
have  known  many  and  many  an  acre  tliat  did  not 
yield  fifty  dollars. 

When  they  first  come  into  market  from  the  open 
ground,  near  New  York,  they  bring  two  dollars  per 
hundred  bunches ;  they  fall  very  soon,  as  the  supply 
increases,  to  one  dollar  or  fifty  cents  a  hundred,  and 
are  often  dull  at  these  prices. 

The  Radish  is  frequently  retarded,  and,  in  fact, 
the  crop  destroyed  by  a  grub,  Anthomyia  raphani. 
This  little  insect  deposits  an  ^gg  in  the  root  of  the 


RADISHES. 


219 


Radish  just  under  the  surfa(*e,  and  in  a  short  time  ap- 
pears the  maggot,  which  feeds  upon  the  young  Radish. 
The  best  remedy  that  Ave  know  for  this  destructive 
insect  is  to  apply  a  dressing  of  common  salt  (lialf  a 
bushel  on  a  rod  of  ground)  to  the  surface  in  the  Fall, 
and  in  the  Spring  when  the  ground  is  ready  for  plant- 
ing, give  a  top-dressing  of  fresh  air-slacked  lime — or 
sprinkle  some  in  the  row,  before  sowing  the  seed — or 
in  addition  to  the  top-dressing  of  lime,  apply  fine 
bone-meal  in  the  drill  with  the  seed.  I  have  tested 
the  salt  and  bone,  and  always  with  good  results,  even 
on  ground  where,  previous  to  this  treatment.  Radishes 
could  not  be  grown. 

There  are  only  a  few  varieties  of  Radishes  that  aa^e 
grown  to  any  extent,  either  in  the  kitchen-garden  or 
for  market. 

Early  Scarlet  Turnip  grows  rapidly,  medium 
size,  shape  round,  when  young  delicate  in  flavor  and 
very  popular. 

Early  Short-top  Long  Scarlet 
is  well  known  as  the  standard  variety, 
both  for  home  use  and  the  early 
Spring  crop  for  market.  When  cul- 
tivated on  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  the  roots 
are  long,  smooth,  and  the  quality  first- 
rate  wdiile  young. 

AVhite  Spanish  is  a  Summer  va- 
riety, popular  among  Germans  for 
making  salads,  and  cultivated  to  some 
extent  for  that  purpose.  It  is  oblong, 
similar  m  shape  to  the  Black  Spanish, 
strong  and  biting,  and  seldom  used  by  Americans. 


EARLY   SCARLET 
TURNIP. 


220 


EADISHEg. 


Black  Spanish  is  a  black  Radish  of  laro^e  size, 
grown  for  Winter  nse.     The  seed  should  be  sown  in 


BLACK    SPANISH. 


July,  and  the  roots  pitted  in  the 
Fall,  like  Turnips  or  Carrots.  It 
is  used  principally  by  the  Ger- 
mans and  French. 

Olive-shaped  is    a  small   va- 
EARLY  SHORT-TOP    nety,  obloH^:,  color  similar  to  the 

LONG   SCARLET.  /'  i  p 

early  fecarlet,  or  good  quality  and 
a  favorite  for  home  use. 

Four  ounces  of  seed,  of  the  different  varieties 
named,  sown  at  different  times,  will  keep  the  table 
well  supplied  with  young  Radishes. 


RHUBARB. 


221 


RHUBARB. 

Rheum  hyhridum. 

The  Khubarb  is  a  hardy  perennial,  cultivated  in 
this  country  exchisively  for  the  leaf-stocks.  There 
is  a  large  demand  for  it  during  April,  May  and  June 
for  making  pies,  tarts,  &c.,  &c.  It  sells  well  until 
green  gooseberries,  currants,  and  early  apples  come 
into  market,  when  its  season  is  over. 

To  show  how  the  demand  for  Ehubarb  has  in- 
creased— fifteen  years  ago,  with  all  our  efforts,  we 
could,  on  a  regular  market-day  in  Newark,  dispose 
of  no  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  bunches. 
Now,  we  often  put  one  thousand  bunches  on  the 
wagon  at  one  time,  and,  in  the  same  market,  find 
less  trouble  to  sell  them  than  we  did  the  smaller 
number  at  first. 

When  grown  for  market,  the  profit  depends  on 
the  earliness.  This  is  obtained  by  planting  in  a 
favorable  locality  and  heavy  manuring.  We  usually 
send  the  first  Rhubarb  to  market  from  the  open 
ground  about  the  twenty-fifth  of  April.  It  is  always 
tied  in  bunches  of  from  five  to  eight  stocks  of  the 
early  sorts,  and  from  three  to  five  of  the  later  ones. 
At  first,  it  sells  freely  at  from  fourteen  dollars  to  six- 
teen dollars  per  hundred  bunches ;  as  the  season  ad- 
vances the  supply  increases,  and  the  prices  fall  grad- 
ually to  six  dollars  or  four  dollars  per  hundred. 

Our  bed  has  been  producing  for  the  last  seven- 
teen years;  it  has  paid  at  the  rate  of  from  three 
hundred  dollars  to  five  hundred  dollars  an  acre. 
When  once  planted,  Rhubarb  gives  less  trouble  than 


222  KHUBARB. 

any  other  vegetable.  We  give  our  patch  a  hea\^' 
dressing  of  manure  every  Spring,  and  fork  it  under ; 
two  hoeings  through  the  season  will  keep  down  the 
weeds.  The  cost  of  keeping  an  acre  in  good  order 
will  average  about  sixty  dollars  a  year.  Before  plant- 
ing, the  ground  should  be  ploughed  and  sub-soiled 
thoroughly,  and,  if  necessary,  drained.  Then  plenty 
of  well-rotted  manure  should  be  turned  under — sixty 
to  seventy  two-horse  loads  to  the  acre :  the  greater 
the  quantity  of  manure  used,  the  larger  and  finer 
will  the  Khubarb  grow\ 

The  roots  should  be  set  four  feet  apart  each  way, 
using  a  spade  and  line,  so  as  to  make  the  rows 
straight  and  at  regular  distances.  The  plants  should 
be  divisions  of  old  roots  of  the  different  kinds  want- 
ed. Gaboon's  Seedling  is  the  only  kind  that  we 
know  that  will  produce  itself  from  seeds  ;  the  other 
well-known  sorts  will  give  a  dozen  varieties,  and 
therefore  they  cannot  be  relied  upon. 

It  makes  little  or  no  difference  whetlier  the  roots 
are  set  out  in  the  Spring  or  Fall — the  condition  of 
the  ground  is  more  important  than  the  time  of  plant- 
ing. It  is  w^ell,  however,  when  the  roots  have  been 
in  place  for  eight  or  nine  years  to  take  them  up  and 
divide  them ;  this  can  be  done  in  August.  If  the 
roots  are  carefully  separated,  part  of  a  crop  can  be 
gathered  the  follo^ving  year,  and  a  full  one  the  sec- 
ond year. 

By  placing  a  bottomless  barrel  over  a  crown  in 
March,  and  putting  some  long  manure  on  the  out- 
side, Rhubarb  can  be  brought  forward.  Gardeners 
often  force  it  by  placing  the  roots  under  the  tables  in 


RHUBAKB.  223 

green  and  forcing-houses,  or  by  means  of  an  ordinary 
hot -bed.  Prices  are  high  and  the  demand  good  for 
this  early  Rhubarb,  and  it  pays  very  well  for  the 
trouble.  Twehe  roots  planted  in  rich  soil  in  the  gar- 
den will  give  an  abundance  for  family  use. 

There  are  only  a  few  varieties  cultivated  to  any 
extent  in  this  country. 

Myatt's  Linn.eus  is  the  best  early  variety.  It  is 
crown  extensively  in  private  gardens  and  for  the 
early  crop  for  market.  It  is  the  best  flavored  kind 
with  which  we  are  familiar. 

Victoria  is  later,  but  it  has  a  much  larger  and 
longer  leaf -stock  than  the  Linnaeus,  and  on  this  ac- 
count it  is  cultivated  by  gardeners  for  the  main  crop 
late  in  the  season. 

Cahoon's  Seedling  is  also  a  late  variety.  It 
grows  even  a  larger  stock  than  the  Yictoria,  but  it  is 
stringy  when  the  leaf -stocks  attain  full  size,  though 
very  juicy. 

This  is  the  kind  that  has  been  sold  by  unprin- 
cipled men  as  the  "  Wine  Plant " — one  of  the  most 
flagrant  swindles  ever  practised  on  the  farming  and 
gardening  community. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

r,  OR  VEGETABLE  ( 

Tragopogon  porrifoliiis. 

The  Salsify  is  a  hardy  biennial.  It  is  cultivated 
for  its  roots,  which  seldom  grow  larger  than  small- 
sized  Carrots  or  Parsnips. 

It  will  succeed  best  on  a  deep,  sandy  loam,  and 
treated  in  every  way  like  Carrots.  The  seeds,  which 
resemble  an  inferior  quality  of  Oats,  should  be  sown 
in  drills,  in  April,  and  thinned  out  to  two  inches 
apart  w^hen  the  plants  are  well  above  ground.  The 
roots  are  hardy  ;  they  may  be  left  in  the  ground  during 
the  Winter,  without  injury.  As  they  are  used  for 
culinary  purposes  during  the  Winter  and  early  Spring, 
we  dig  them  up  in  the  Fall,  and  store  them  in  trenches, 
like  Celery,  where  they  keep  in  good  condition  until 
wanted. 

Salsify  is  grown  to  a  limited  extent  for  market. 
In  preparing  it  for  this  purpose  the  fibrous  roots  and 
dead  leaves  are  removed  ;  it  is  then  washed  and  tied 
in  bunches  about  the  size  of  Asparagus  bunches. 
They  usually  bring  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  a  dozen 
bunches. 

The  Salsify  is  a  favorite  in  the  kitchen-garden, 
and  it  is  becoming  more  so  every  year.  It  is  easily 
grown. 


SCORZONEKA.       SEA    KALE. 

Two  ounces  of  seed  will  be  sufficient 
for  home  use. 

Some  of  the  plants  may  be  left  in  the 
ground  all  AYinter  for  the  seed.  Kabbits 
are  fond  of  the  young  tops  in  the  Spring ; 
we  have  fi'equently  been  annoyed  by 
their  eating  the  tops  so  closely  that  we 
have  not  been  able  to  get  any  seed  the 
second  season. 


225 


SCORZONEKA. 


Scorzonera  hisjpanica. 

The  Scorzonera  is  a  native  of  Spain. 
It  is  very  similar  to  Salsify,  and  needs  the 
same  kind  of  culture.  The  seed  should 
be  sown  early  in  April,  as  it  requires  a 
long  season  to  mature. 

It  is  used  in  soups,  or  boiled,  and 
served  as  Salsify,  it  makes  a  pleasant  dish. 
Before  cooking,  the  outside  skin  should 
be  taken  off. 


^^-: 


SEA  KALE. 

Crambe  maritima. 
The  Sea  Kale  is  a  hardy  perennial,  a 
native  of  the  sea  coast  of  Europe,  where 
it  grows  abundantly.  In  its  wild  state, 
w^hen  blanched,  gathered,  and  served  as 
Asparagus,  it  is  a  delicious  vegetable. 
Although  extensiA^ely  cultivated  and  very 
popular  in  Europe,  it  is  grown  to  a  very 
limited  extent  in  this  country  in  private 
gardens. 


SALSIFY. 


226  SEA   KALE. 

It  may  be  propagated  from  roots  or  seeds,  and  it 
does  best  when  planted  on  a  deep,  sandy  loam.  The 
least  expensive  way  to  start  a  bed,  is  to  sow  the  seed 
in  hills,  two  feet  apart  each  way,  early  in  April,  and 
Avhen  the  plants  come  up,  thin  out  leaving  only  two 
to  each  place.  Before  sowing  the  seed,  however,  the 
bed  should  be  thoroughly  prepared,  for  on  this  will 
depend  the  success  of  the  crop.  Tlie  ground  should 
be  hoed  frequently  the  first  year,  and  no  weeds  al 
lowed  to  appear.  In  tlie  Fall,  a  nudch  of  long  ma- 
nure, three  or  four  inches  in  thickness,  should  be  put 
on  the  bed  to  protect  against  the  cold  weather. 

Two  ounces  of  seed  will  furnish  enough  plants 
for  family  use. 

When  propagated  by  roots,  a  few  old  ones  may 
be  lifted  in  the  Fall,  divided  and  kept  buried  in 
damp  sand  until  the  follow^ing  Spring,  when  they 
may  be  set  in  place,  covering  the  "  crowns  "  four 
inches.  Or  the  roots  can  be  started  in  hot-beds  in 
March  and  transplanted  in  place  in  April. 

AVith  this  treatment,  stocks  for  table  use  can  be 
cut  the  first  season.  In  the  Spring  of  the  second 
year,  the  bed  should  be  forked  over,  turning  in  some 
of  the  mulch.  The  lighter  part  of  it  should  l)e  gath- 
ered in  heaps,  mixed  with  some  leaf-mold,  and,  be- 
fore the  plants  start  to  grow,  placed  on  the  "  crowns," 
to  blanch  them.  This  Spring  mulch  should  be  eight 
or  ten  inches  in  thickness. 

Large  flower-pots  covering  the  "'  crowns "  will 
answer  the  same  purpose,  the  object  being  to  exclude 
the  light.  A  slight  dressing  of  common  salt,  every 
Spring,  will  be  found  beneficial.     All  the  cutting  of 


epiNACH.  227 

the  Sea  Kale  is  made  at  one  time  ;  while  young  the 
cutting  should  not  be  too  close,  for  it  would  weaken 
the  roots.  When  the  flower  heads  appear,  the  mulch 
should  be  removed,  and  then  tlie  growth  is  not  un- 
like that  of  Broccoli ;  it  can  be  used  in  the  same  way. 
Sea  Kale,  served  the  same  as  Asparagus,  is  by  many 
persons  preferred  to  it. 

SPINACH. 

Spinacea  oleracea. 

The  Spinach  is  well  and  favoral^ly  known  in 
every  section  of  this  country.  It  is  cultivated  very 
generally  for  Winter  and  Spring  "  greens  "  in  all 
well-managed  kitchen-gardens,  and  it  is  also  a  profita- 
ble crop  for  market. 

It  needs  a  deep,  rich  soil  to  produce  maximum 
crops,  for  it  can  only  be  grown  with  profit  on  land 
that  is  well  drained  and  highly  manured.  For  a 
succession,  the  seed  may  be  sown  early  in  April  and 
again  in  May — for  the  principal  crop,  from  the  first 
to  the  tenth  of  September,  on  ground  from  which  a 
Summer  crop  has  been  taken. 

Before  sowing,  the  ground  should  l^e  well-ma- 
nured, thoroughly  pulverized,  and  the  surface  levelled. 
The  rows  are  then  marked  out,  one  foot  apart,  with 
the  garden  ''  marker."  The  seed  can  be  sown  in  the 
garden  by  hand,  and  in  the  field  with  a  machine, 
using  five  or  six  pounds  to  the  acre.  A  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  seed  will  sow  enough  for  home  use. 

During  October,  it  is  well  to  give  the  Spinach  a 
hoeing,  and  thin  it  out  in  places  where  it  is  too  thick. 


228  SPINACH. 

What  is  wanted  for  home  use  in  mid- Winter  shonld 
be  mulched  lightly  with  salt  hay ;  this  will  protect 
the  leaves  from  injury  by  frost.  Or  if  the  Spinach 
has  grown  full  size  in  the  Fall,  it  may  be  kept  very 
well  by  cutting  it  then,  placing  it  three  or  four 
inches  thick  in  a  frame,  and  covering  it  with  a  sash 
and  a  little  rubbish.  Gardeners  sometimes  get  eight 
and  ten  dollars  a  barrel  in  mid-Winter  for  Spinach 
kept  in  this  way. 

The  main  crop  is  cut  and  marketed  during  April 
and  May,  at  prices  ranging  from  one  to  five  dollars 
per  barrel,  according  to  the  supply,  &c.  When  the 
ground  is  rich  and  tlie  seed  fresh,  one  hundred 
barrels  to  the  acre  is  a  large  yield  ;  although  we 
have  cut  a  barrel  of  Spinach  from  a  square  rod  of 
ground. 

When  the  Spinach  is  taken  off,  Tomatoes,  Egg 
Plants,  or  Cabbages  can  be  planted  on  the  same 
ground.  With  a  favorable  season,  an  acre  of  Spin- 
ach will  give  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  dollars  profit. 

The  varieties  cultivated  are  but  few  in  number. 

Round  Spinach  is  the  most  popular  kind  for 
home  use  or  market.  The  seed  is  smooth,  the  leaves 
large  and  slightly  crimped.  It  will  stand  the  Win- 
ter without  protection. 

Prickly,  or  Fall. — This  variety  is  said  to  be 
more  hardy  than  the  Round,  but  we  have  never 
found  it  to  be  so.  Although  recommended  for  Fall 
planting,  it  will  grow  just  as  well  when  sown  in  the 
Spring.  The  Prickly  is  not  quite  as  productive  as 
the  Round  Leaf,  but  fully  equals  it  in  quality. 


NEW    ZEALAND    SPINACH.       SHALLOTS.  229 

NEW    ZEALAND    SPINACH. 

Tetragonia  expansa. 
This  plant  is  a  native  of  New  Zealand,  and  in  its 
habits  is  directly  the  opposite  of  the  common  Spin- 
ach. It  stands  the  heat  better  than  the  cold  ;  when 
the  seeds  are  sown  in  a  bed  in  April  and  transplanted 
in  rows  in  May — three  feet  apart,  and  two  feet  apart 
in  the  row— it  will  give  an  abnndance  of  greens  dnr- 
ino:  hot  weather.  These  are  cooked  and  served  in 
the  same  manner  as  Spinach. 

SHALLOTS. 

Allmm  ascalonicum. 

The  Shallot,  sometimes  called  '-  Scallion,"  has  a 
stronger  taste  than  the  Onion,  but  it  does  not  leave 
the  peculiar  odor  in  the  breath  that  the  Onion  does. 
It  is  used  in  this  country,  early  in  Spring,  in  its  green 
state,  to  flavor  soups,  stews,  &c.,  efec.  It  is  generally 
found  in  private  gardens  and  is  also  grown  by  market- 
gardeners  as  a  source  of  profit. 

The  "sets"  are  planted  in  September,  in  rich 
ground,  in  rows,  one  foot  apart,  and  three  or  four 
inches  apart  in  the  row.  The  smallest  "  sets  "  are  the 
best  for  this  purpose  ;  they  do  not  mould,  and  they  are 
seldom  injured  by  frost.  These  are  ready  for  use  in 
April ;  if  not  pulled  then,  they  may  be  left  in  the 
ground  until  ripe.  This  is  indicated  by  the  leaves 
dying.  By  this  time  the  bulljs  will  have  increased  in 
size  very  much,  and  they  can  easily  be  divided  for 
planting  again  in  the  Fall. 

A  quart  of  these  "  offsets "  will  be  enough  for 
family  use. 

11 


230  SORREL.       SQUASH. 

SORREL. 

Rumex  acetosa. 

The  Sorrel  is  a  perennial — seldom  cnltivated  6y 
American  gardeners. 

It  is  a  popular  vegetal)le  with  the  French,  who 
use  it  in  various  ways — for  making  salads,  flavoring 
soups  and  stews,  and  sometimes  they  serve  it  plain 
as  Spinach. 

We  have  tried  several  times  to  eat  Sorrel,  served 
in  Frencli  style,  l)ut  we  had  to  give  it  up.  It  is  said 
to  be  a  very  healthful  vegetal)le. 

Sorrel  is  very  easily  cultivated.  Tlie  seed  may  be 
sown  in  drills  one  foot  apart,  in  April,  and  in  ninety 
days  there  will  be  an  abundant  crop  of  large,  succu- 
lent leaves. 

SQUASH. 

Oucnrhita  Species. 

The  Squash  is  extensively  cultivated  in  the  kitchen- 
garden  and  also  as  a  profitable  market  crop.  There 
is  a  long  list  of  varieties,  all  of  them  of  tropical  ori- 
gin, and  consequently  tender.  As  the  young  plants 
are  so  sensitive  to  cold,  we  seldom  put  in  the  seed  be- 
fore the  middle  of  May,  when  the  ground  is  warm 
and  the  weather  settled.  The  Squash  will  do  well  on 
any  properly  prepared  soil,  but  a  sandy  loam  is  bet- 
ter adapted  to  this  vegetable  than  soil  of  a  heavier 
character. 

For  the  Early  Bush  sorts  we  make  hills  the  same 
as  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  four  feet  between  the 
rows  and  tiiree  feet  in  the  rows,  using  about  the  same 


SQTTASH.       ^  231 

quantity  of  well-rotted  manure.  Six  or  eight  seeds 
are  planted  in  each  liill.  When  three  rough  leaves 
are  formed,  all  l)ut  three  plants  to  a  liill  should  be 
puHed  out. 

As  the  young  })lants  are  lial)le  to  the  attacks  of 
the  "  Striped  Biuj^^  the  remedy  recommended  for 
Cucumbers  should  be  applied  to  the  Squash  vines. 

The  later  varieties  are  cultivated  in  the  same 
manner,  only  making  the  hills  eight  feet  a})art  each 
way.  The  space  between  the  lulls  can  be  planted 
with  Lettuce,  or  Kohl-Rabi,  foi-  an  early  Crop,  where 
economy  of  ground  is  essential.  No  weeds  should  be 
allowed  to  appear  among  the  vines. 

On  Long  Island  and  in  some  parts  of  New  Jersey 
the  early  kinds  are  grown  as  field-crops  ;  ])ut  the  sale 
of  them  is  very  uncertain.  We  have  seen  growers 
who,  one  year,  were  forced  to  consign  a  large  part  of 
their  c^rop  to  the  hog-pen;  the  next  season  the  same 
S})ace  devoted  to  Squash  gave  a  profit  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  dollars. 

The  Early  Bush  varieties  are  grown  largely 
around  Norfolk  and  Charleston,  but  even  when 
brought  from  so  far  South,  the  profits  are  not  high, 
seldom  being  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
dollars  an  acre.  When  the  expenses  are  deducted 
from  this  amount,  the  profit  is  still  less. 

The  varieties  of  Squash  are  numerous,  but  those 
generally  grown  are  but  few. 

Early  White  Bush  is  one  of  the  earliest  and 
best  kinds  for  market  or  home  use. 

Early  Yellow  Bush. — Similar  to  the  above, 
only  differing  in  color.     Plant  four  l)y  three. 


232  SQUASH. 

Early  Bush  Summer  Crookneck  is  an  old  favor- 
ite varietv  for  summer  nse.  The  vines  are  compact 
and  bear  abundantly.  The  fruit  is  yellow,  covered 
thickly  with  warty  excrescences,  and  grows  eight  or 
nine  inches  long.     Plant  four  by  three. 


EARLY    WHITE    BUSH    SQUASH. 


Boston  Marrow  is  a  popular  \'ariety  for  Fall  and 
Winter  use.  With  careful  treatment  it  can  be  kept 
until  the  first  of  January. 

The  color  of  the  flesh  is  orange,  it  is  of  a  fine 


SUMMER    BUSH   CROOKNECK. 

grain,  and  cooks  as  dry  as  a  Potato.     Plant  eight  by 
eight. 

Hubbard. — This  is  a  Fall  and  Winter  variety, 
equal,  if  not  superior,  in  quality  to  the  Boston  Mar- 
row. The  skin  being  very  hard,  it  keeps  better ; 
with  care  it  can  be  kept  until  May.     It  is  a  good 


SWEET   POTATOES.  233 

variety  for  garden  or  field-culture.     Plant  eight  by 
eight. 

YoKOHOMA. — This  variety  is  from  Japan,  sent 
here  by  Mr.  Thomas  Hogg^  and,  after  a  ten  years' 
trial,  proves  to  be  a  valuable  acquisition.  It  is  of  a 
pale  green  color,  changing  later  in  the  season  to  a 
dull  orange.  The  surface  is  ribbed  and  warted. 
The  flesh  is  solid,  orange  color,  fine  grained,  and 


BOSTON    MARROW 


cooks  dry,  with  a  high  flavor  of  excellent  quality. 
Can  be  kept  until  March. 

Winter  Crookneck  is  popular  in  New  England 
for  Winter  use.  The  Wnes  grow  luxuriantly  and  bear 
a  Squash  with  a  long,  solid  neck ;  cohjr  pale  yellow, 
flesh  tender,  and  g(;od  for  pies. 

Three  or  four  ounces  of  Squash-seed,  of  the  dif- 
ferent kinds,  when  properly  cultivated,  will  give  an 
abundance  for  Sunnner  and  Winter  use. 

SWEET     POTATO. 

Ijpomoea  hatatas. 
Within  the  last  ten  years,  tlie  culture  of  the  Sweet 
Potato  has  increased  very  materially,  in  some  of  the 


234  SWEET  POTATOES. 

Middle  States.  Formerly  the  supply  for  the  North- 
ern  markets  came  from  Virginia  and  the  Carolinas, 
but  now  farmers  in  Xew  Jersey  and  other  States  as 
far  north,  having  light  sandy  soil,  are  turning  their 
attention  more  and  more  every  year  to  the  culti\a- 
tion  of  it  as  a  profitable  market  crop. 

It  is  useless  to  attempt  growing  the  Sweet  Pota- 
toes, with  any  hopes  of  success,  on  a  heavy  clay  soil. 
They  will  only  reach  their  full  size  on  a  light,  warm, 
sandy  soil.  In  the  Northern  or  Middle  States  the 
plants  should  be  started  under  glass,  and  transplanted 
to  the  open  air  in  June. 

About  the  first  of  April  a  moderate  hot-bed  is 
made,  putting  on  top  of  the  manure,  when  the  frame 
is  in  place,  two  inches  of  good  garden-soil.  The  Po- 
tatoes selected  for  seed,  should  l)e  fine  specimens. 
These  should  be  cut  lengthwise  in  two,  then  placed 
close  to  each  other,  flat  side  down,  in  the  frame,  and 
covered  at  once  with  about  three  inches  of  garden- 
mould,  putting  on  the  sashes  immediately.  In  fifteen 
da3'S  from  the  time  of  planting,  tlie  young  sprouts 
will  be  well  above  ground ;  then  they  should  have  an 
abundance  of  air  daily,  or  else  they  will  grow  too 
long  and  spindling.  They  may  be  grown  in  hills, 
three  feet  apart  each  way — either  in  the  open  field 
or  garden.  A  shovelful  of  well-rotted  manure  is 
thrown  on  the  spot  and  well  mixed  with  the  soil, 
forming  a  raised  mound  like  a  Cucumber  hill,  only 
larger.  The  plants  may  be  separated  from  the  Pota- 
to by  pressing  them  off  with  the  thumb  and  finger. 
They  should  be  at  once  planted  in  the  hill ;  this  must 
be  done  early  in  June,  on  a  damp  or  cloudy  day. 


SWEET   POTATOES.  235 

Tli€  ground  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  by  fre- 
quent stirrings  with  a  cultivator  or  hand-hoe.  When 
the  vines  begin  to  run,  they  should  be  lifted  carefully, 
by  hand,  and  their  positions  clianged,  so  that  they 
may  not  take  root  early  in  the  season.  If  allowed  to 
do  so,  the  Potatoes,  even  with  a  strong  growth  of  vine, 
will  not  be  as  large  as  they  otherwise  would. 

The  Sweet  Potato  is  the  only  vegetable  with 
which  I  am  familiar  that  will  do  better  on  shallow 
than  on  deep-ploughed  land.  When  the  ground  is 
worked  deep  the  roots  grow  long  and  very  slender. 
In  garden-culture,  we  frequently  tramp  the  spot  hard 
before  putting  on  the  manure  and  making  the  hill, 
and  find  it  works  well.  If  the  plants  are  taken  off 
carefully,  a  second  crop  of  plants  will  soon  come  up 
thickly,  and  grow  full  size,  in  time  to  set  out  in  the 
open  field.  Between  three  and  four  thousand  plants 
can  be  grown  under  a  sash  3x6. 

"VVlien  tlie  soil  is  light  and  warm,  suited  to  the 
growth  of  the  Sweet  Potato,  it  is  a  more  profitable 
crop  to  raise  than  the  common  Potato.  From  one 
to  two  hundred  dollars  can  be  made  from  an  acre. 
Twelve  or  fifteen  hills  should  yield  a  bushel  of  Pota- 
toes. 

There  are  only  two  or  three  kinds  that  are  culti- 
vated. 

Nansemond  is  the  best  and  earliest  variety  o-rown 
in  the  Middle  States.  The  roots  are  short  but  thick, 
flesh  yellow,  dry,  and  of  a  fine  flavor. 

Yellow  Skin  is  grown  chiefly  in  the  Carolinas, 
where  it  is  highly  valued  for  its  fine  quality  for  the 
table.     It  grows  large,  twelve  inches  long,  swollen 


S36  SWEET  POTATOES. 

in  the  middle,  three  inches  in  diameter ;  flesh  yellow 
and  fine  grained. 

Red  Skin. — The  roots  of  this  variety  grow  long 
and  thin.  It  is  not  desirable  where  the  other  kinds 
are  cultivated. 


CHAPTER  Xin. 

TOMATO. 

Lycopersicum  esculentum. 

The  Tomato  is  very  extensively  grown  in  many 
sections  of  the  country.  When  properly  managed, 
it  usually  pays  a  handsome  profit  on  the  capital  in- 
vested. 

In  common  with  many  others,  who  have  been  for 
some  years  practically  engaged  in  h(^rticultural  pur- 
suits, we  are  frequently  questioned  by  beginners 
about  the  cultivation  of  the  Tomato  as  a  source  of 
profit :  How  much  will  an  acre  yield  under  ordinary 
treatment,  and  the  sum  total  that  can  be  relied  on 
with  any  degree  of  certainty  ?  It  is  not  an  easy  mat- 
ter to  answer  such  queries  satisfactorily  to  the  person 
propounding  them,  from  the  fact  that  so  much  de- 
pends on  circumstances,  such  as  proximity  to  a  good 
market,  earliness,  and  the  character  of  the  soil  on 
which  they  are  grown.  Even  with  professional 
gardeners,  the  Tomato  is  a  precarious  crop.  It  is  ex- 
ceedingly perishable  ;  three  or  four  days'  rain,  or 
damp  and  muggy  weather  at  the  time  of  ripening, 
often  spoils  a  very  considerable  part  of  the  crop  ;  or, 
even  when  gathered  and  packed  in  good  order  for 
market,  rougli  or  careless  handling  will  so  injure  the 
appearance  of  Tomatoes,  that  they  have  to  be  sold  for 
11- 


238  TOMATOES. 

a  low  figure,  at  a  time  when  sound  ones  are  bringing 
high  rates.  Again,  a  great  deal  depends  upon  the 
skill  of  the  culti^•ator  in  preparing  his  ground  and 
managing  his  plants,  so  as  to  bring  the  crop  forward 
a  week  or  ten  days  earlier  than  the  main  crop  from 
the  same  vicinity.  We  have  known  of  numerous 
instances  where  two  gardeners  in  the  same  neigh- 
borhood would  grow  a  certain  number  of  baskets  of 
Tomatoes  every  year ;  one  of  them,  by  skill  and 
close  application  to  his  business,  would  make  from 
an  acre,  from  five  to  seven  hundred  dollars,  while 
the  other  would  not  make  more  than  two  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars.  Every  intelligent  gardener  knows 
the  importance,  in  Tomato  culture,  of  having  strong, 
stout,  and  stocky  plants  when  the  time  arri\'es  for 
transplanting  into  the  open  ground.  In  fact,  where- 
this  part  of  the  business  is  overlooked  or  neglected, 
it  would  be  wiser  and  in  every  way  better  for  the 
farmer  or  gardener  to  devote  his  land  to  Potatoes  or 
Corn,  instead  of  Tomatoes. 

The  consumption  of  Tomatoes  is,  of  course,  im- 
mense ;  but  it  makes  a  very  decided  difference  to 
the  grower  whether  he  has  a  term  oi  one,  two,  or 
three  weeks  in  the  Tomato  season,  when  his  fruit  will 
be  in  brisk  demand  at  prices  ranging  from  three 
to  four  dollars  per  l^asket  of  twenty  quarts ;  or  he  is 
compelled  to  commence  selling  at  fifty  cents  per 
basket,  on  a  falling  market,  whicli  will  soon  reach 
ten  cents.  At  these  low  rates,  the  demand  is  not  as 
good  as  when  Tomatoes  were  bringing  three  dollars 
a  basket. 

Twelve  or  fourteen  days  in  the  date  of  ripening, 


TOMAToi:s.  239 

will  often  make  a  difference  of  two  or  three  hundred 
dollars  on  an  acre.  To  gain  this  time,  practical 
gardeners  make  use  of  every  means  to  hasten  the 
ripening.  Transplanting  the  plants  two  or  three 
times  before  setting  them  in  the  field  has  a  tendency 
to  bring  about  this  result,  and  this  system  is  general- 
ly adopted  by  the  best  cultivators. 

Within  the  last  six  or  seven  years.  Tomatoes  have 
been  grown  in  some  of  the  Southern  States,  and 
shipped  North  in  such  quantities,  as  to  create,  what 
might  be  termed,  a  panic  among  Northern  growers. 
Those  sent  from  points  south  of  Virginia  usually 
arrive  in  damaeced  condition,  owino^  to  the  careless 
jucking  and  packing  of  many  of  the  Southern  growl- 
ers, and  they  have  not,  so  far,  conflicted  with  the  in- 
terests of  Northern  gardeners.  But  Norfolk,  Va., 
and  Delaware  Tonuitoes,  are  now  sent  into  New 
York  and  other  Northern  markets,  almost  as  fresh  as 
those  gi-own  in  New  Jersey  or  on  Long  Island. 
Large  quantities  coming  from  these  sources,  have  re- 
duced the  profits  of  Northern  growers. 

In  growing  Tomatoes  for  market,  the  frames 
form  a  very  important  but  at  the  same  time  a  very 
expensive  item.  At  least  from  six  to  eight  thou- 
sand plants  can  be  grown  in  a  seed-bed  (full  direc- 
tions for  which  will  be  found  under  IIot-I3eds) ;  these, 
however,  n^ust  be  transplanted  into  other  frames,  put- 
ting only  sixty  plants  t(^  a  sash,  and  when  they  are 
set  in  place  in  the  field  four  by  four,  this  would  take 
two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-two  plants 
to  an  acre,  and  from  forty  to  fifty  sashes. 

There  are  hundreds  of  acres  of  Tomatoes  grown 


240  TOMATOES. 

a;*^'iind  I^ew  York  by  contract  for  canning.  For  this 
pr^rpose  the  matter  of  earliness  is  not  so  important, 
and  a  couple  of  hundred  plants  may  be  put  in  a  trans- 
planting bed.  The  canning  companies  usually  pay 
from  forty  to  fifty  cents  a  bushel,  and  growers  do 
well  at  these  prices. 

Soil. — The  Tomato  is  one  of  the  few  plants  grown 
by  market-gardeners  for  profit  that  will  pay  better 
when  planted  in  a  poor  than  in  a  rich  soil.  I  do  not 
mean  a  barren  soil,  but  such  as  a  gardener  would 
look  upon  as  poor.  Before  planting,  the  ground 
should  be  thoroughly  and  deeply  ploughed  and  mel- 
lowed. Then  the  furrows  should  be  marked  out 
with  two  horses  and  a  plough  four  feet  each  way.  At 
each  intersection  throw  a  small  handful  of  Peruvian 
guano.  Then  carefully  lift  the  plants  from  the 
frames,  each  one  having  a  ball  or  scpiare  piec^  of 
earth  attached  to  the  roots.  For  this  purpose  use  a 
long-bladed  knife,  making  a  cut  on  the  four  sides  of 
the  plants,  which  are  then  placed  in  a  barrow  or 
spring  wagon  and  taken  to  the  field.  The  plants 
are  set  in  place  on  top  of  the  guano  or  other  stimu- 
lant, some  soil  is  drawn  around  the  ball  of  earth, 
which  is  pressed  firmly  by  the  hands  of  the  operator, 
and  so  on  until  the  field  is  finished.  When  the 
plants  have  had  plenty  of  room  in  the  frames,  then 
lifted  as  described  above,  they  are  not  checked  by 
transplanting  in  the  open  ground.  The  roots  will 
very  soon  come  in  contact  with  the  guano ;  this 
will  force  the  plants  forward  more  rapidly  than  any 
other  treatment  with  which  we  have  experimented. 
When  Tomatoes  are  planted  in  strong,  rich  ground, 


TOMATOES. 


241 


they  run  too  much  to  vines ;  and  although,  taking 
the  season  through,  there  will  be  more  fruit,  it  comes 
too  late  in  the  season,  when  Tomatoes  are  plenty  and 
cheap. 

In  cultivating  Tomatoes  in  a  large  way,  the  only 
trouble  is  to  grow^  the  plants.  When  once  in  per- 
manent place  they  require  less  care  than  Coru.  All 
that  is  necessary  is  to  keep  the  ground  well  cultivated 
with  horse  implements,  hand-hoeing  once  or  twice 
during  the  season  imuiediately  aromid  tlie  plants. 

Yield  per  Acre.— In  1864  we  contracted  with 
parties  to  grow  them  ten  thousand  baskets  of  Toma- 
toes. The  Summer  of  that  year  was  excessi  vely  warm 
and  dry,  and  from  a  want  of  experience  in  handling 
and  shipping  so  many,  quite  a  large  proportion  of 
them  spoiled  on  the  vines.  Still,  from  the  number 
of  acres  planted,  the  average  yield  gathered  was  nine 
hundred  baskets  to  the  acre.  Since  then  a  careful 
and  large  grower  has  assured  me  that  he  has  repeated- 
ly gathered  one  thousand  bushels  from  an  acre,  and 
I  ha\'e  not  the  least  doubt  as  to  the  correctness  of  the 
estimate.  Taking  a  small  piece  of  ground,  we  have 
frequently  got  a  higher  average  than  this,  but  when 
grown  by  the  acre,  the  calculations  have  to  be  made 
accordingly.  It  will  take  about  twenty-seven  hun- 
dred plants  to  an  acre,  and  each  ])lant  should  produce 
one  peck  of  marketal)le  fruit,  making  about  seven 
hundred  bushels. 

This  is  a  fair  estimate  of  the  yield  of  Tomatoes, 
and  it  can  be  safely  stated  that  the  gardener  or  farm- 
er, who  starts  out  with  a  firm  determination  to  cul- 
tivate and  manage  his  field  with  care  and  discretion 


242  TOMATOES. 

may,  in  a  favorable  season,  rely  upon  six  or  seven 
hundred  bushels  of  Tomatoes  to  the  acre. 

These  figures  are  based  entirely  on  good  cultiva- 
tion, for  we  have  seen  many  an  acre  of  Tomatoes  that 
did  not  yield  two  hundred  bushels. 

Varieties. — Tiiere  is  now  a  lono-  cataloo-ue  of 
varieties  of  Tomatoes,  many  of  them  recently  intro- 
duced. Among  these  new  kinds,  some  have  special 
merit  for  the  kitchen-garden,  but  so  far  we  have 
grown  no  variety  that  will  compare,  in  earliness, 
quality,  and  productiveness  for  market,  with  the  old 
favorite. 

Smooth  Round  Red. — It  is  early,  smooth,  solid, 
medium  and  uniform  in  size,  and  ripens  to  the  stem. 
The  best  market  variety. 

Trophy. — This  new  variety  was  sent  out  last 
Spring  for  the^first  time  by  Col.  George  E.  Waring, 
of  Newport,  R.  I. 

We  have  cultivated  a  number  of  plants  of  the 
"  Trophy,"  and  we  feel  satisfied  that  it  is  a  valuable 
acquisition  to  our  list  of  Tomatoes.  In  quality, 
quantity  of  crop,  and  size  of  fruit,  it  is  all  that 
Colonel  Waring  claims  for  it ;  in  fact,  for  solidity 
and  quality  it  is  superior  to  any  variety  with  which 
we  are  familiar.  Until  the  time  comes  when  Toma- 
toes are  sold  by  weight,  and  not  by  measure,  the 
Trophy  will  not  l)e(^ome  a  })opular  market  variety  ; 
for  the  reason  that  a  huckster  cannot  measure  a 
quart  or  two  of  Tomatoes  so  large  as  they  are.  For 
home  consumption,  the  Tro])liy  cannot  help  becom- 
ing a  favorite,  provided  the  variety  is  kept  pure. 
When  it  is  more  generally  cultivated,  this  Avill  ne  a 


TOMATOES.  243 

difficult  task.  The  specimen  Tomatoes  from  which 
we  procured  seed  were  very  large,  smooth,  and 
round.  At  least  one-lialf  of  the  crop  from  this  seed 
was  of  a  different  shape,  altliougli  the  whole  crop  of 
fruit  was  of  large  size.  It  is  not  as  early  as  the 
Smooth  Round  Red. 

TiLDEN. — This  variety  we  have  grown  three  years 
in  succession,  then  dropped  it  fi-om  our  list  as  un- 
worthy of  a  plac^e.  It  is  a  liglit  ]>earer,  not  early, 
and  more  liable  to  rot  than  any  of  the  other  large 
kinds. 

Coock's  Favorite. — This  is  a  reliable  variety,  and 
popular  in  some  sections  for  market.  The  fruit  is 
round,  smooth,  solid,  and  abundant.  It  is  not  with 
us  as  early  as  the  Early  Smooth  Red. 

Lester's  Perfected  is  large,  late ;  color  pinkish 
red,  smooth,  and  solid.     Only  fit  for  home  use. 

Large  Yellow  is  a  medium-sized  Tonuito,  of  a 
bright  yellow  color.  Fruit  round  and  solid.  Only 
grown  in  the  kitchen-garden. 

Pear-Suaped  and  Cuerry  are  grown  exclusively 
for  pickling  and  preserving,  for  which  they  are  very 
popular. 

Plants  for  family  use  (-an  be  started,  in  ])ots  or 
boxes  in  warm  rooms  in  March,  and  l)y  the  middle 
of  May — the  time  to  transplant  them — they  will  be 
strong  and  stocky. 

Seed  may  be  sown  in  a  ]:)rotected  border  in  April, 
and  transplanted  in  June  for  a  late  (trop,  that  will 
yield  until  frost.  The  l)earing  season  of  all  the 
varieties  may  be  lengthened  by  training  the  vines  to 
a  fi-ame-work. 


244  TUKNIPS. 

From  twenty-five  to  fifty  plants  will  be  enough 
to  stock  the  kitchen-garden,  planted  four  feet  apart 
each  way. 

TURNIP. 

Brassica  rapa. 

The  Turnip  crop  is  an  important  one  to  the 
farmer  as  well  as  to  the  market-gardener.  But,  as 
yet,  its  culture  is  nothing  like  as  extensive  as  the 
value  of  this  root  for  feeding  stock  and  for  culinary 
purposes  would  warrant. 

In  the  milk  and  beef-producing  districts  of  the 
Middle  States,  Turnips  can  be  grown  with,  profit  for 
Winter  and  Spring  feeding  of  stock.  Sheep  will 
thrive  w^ell  w^hen  fed  in  part  w^ith  Turnips  through 
the  cold  weather. 

We  are  ijiclined  to  believe  that  the  time  is  not 
far  distant  when  the  good  huslmndman  will  be  forced 
to  acce})t  this  ])roposition,  and  devote  more  acres  to 
the  production  of  this  root  for  stock-feeding. 

Within  the  last  dozen  years  the  culture  of  Tur- 
nips has  very  considerably  increased  in  this  country  ; 
it  will,  no  doubt,  go  on  steadily  from  year  to  year, 
but  more  rapidly  when  farmei*s  will  make  use  of 
some  of  the  improved  horse-tools.  These,  when 
properly  applied,  w^ill  reduce  the  expense  of  culti- 
vation at  least  one-half. 

The  main  crop  of  Turnips  is  grown  in  the  Fall, 
and  very  commonly  as  a  second  crop.  Those  Avho 
grow  Early  Potatoes  foa-  market  harvest  them  in 
time  to  sow  Turnip-seed,  and,  by  this  method,  pro- 
duce two  crops  from  the  same  ground  in  one  year. 


TURNIPS.  246 

In  locations  where  this  plan  can  be  carried  out^  tlie 
crop  of  Turnips  will  often  give  as  much  profit  as 
the  crop  of  Potatoes.  We  have  frequently  grown  a 
crop  of  Strap-leaf  Red-Top  Turnips  on  the  same 
ground  with  Corn,  l)y  sowing  the  seed  broadcast  in 
July,  just  before  the  Corn  was  cultivated  the  last 
time.  We  have  often  had,  in  this  way,  three  or  four 
hundred  bushels  of  good-sized  Turnips  in  November, 
from  sowing  only  one  pound  of  seed  to  the  acre. 

Soil. — The  Turnip  will  grow  freely  on  any  kind 
of  soil — from  a  light  sandy  loam,  to  a  heavy  clay — 
provided  the  ground  is  mellow  and  fertile  wlien  tlie 
seed  is  sown.  This  is  the  important  point  in  grow- 
ing Turnips.  As  a  matter  of  course,  those  kinds 
that  have  to  be  cultivated  in  rows  can  be  OTown  witli 
much  less  expense  on  a  free  soil  without  stones,'  than 
on  a  heavy  clay  soil  with  stones.  Nor  does  the  soil 
need  to  be  very  rich  to  produce  a  full  crop.  AYhen 
sown  on  rich  soil,  tlie  growth  of  tops  will  be  too 
large,  without  a  corresponding  growth  of  the  roots. 

On  ground  well  manured  in  the  Spring,  for  Early 
Potatoes,  and  after  these  have  been  dug,  in  July, 
ploughed  and  harrowed,  a  crop  of  Turnips  can  be 
grown  without  any  additional  manure.  But  we 
nsually,  before  harrowing,  spread  broadcast  two  or 
three  hundred  pounds  of  sui)eri)hosphate  to  the  acre. 
In  garden-culture,  on  ground  where  Potatoes,  Peas, 
Beans,  etc.,  etc.,  have  l)een  taken  off,  some  wood- 
ashes,  bone-flour,  or  sui)erph()S|)hate,  may  be  applied 
in  the  same  way  with  advantage,  before  sowmg  the 
Turnip-seed. 

Culture. — The  2:round  should  be  well  worked 


246 


TUENIPS. 


HEXAMER  PBONG- 
HOE. 


before  sowing  the  seed.  When 
a  Summer  crop  of  Potatoes  has 
been  grown,  one  ploughing,  in 
most  instances,  will  suffice  ;  but, 
otherwise,  two  ploughings  will 
be  found  to  give  the  most  sat- 
isfactory returns.  The  time  of 
sowing  for  the  main  crop  will 
depend  on  the  location  and  the 
kind  to  be  grown.  At  our  farm 
in  New  Jersey,  we  sow  the  Kuta 
Baga  from  the  20th  of  June  un- 
til the  15th  of  July,  as  the  case 
may  be. 

With  the  Yellow  Stone,  Aber- 
deen, Long  \Vliite  Cow-Horn,  and 
Strap-leaf  Red-Top,  we  sow  them 
in  the  order  named ;  in  relation 
to  time,  from  the  middle  of  July 
to  the  1st  of  September.  The 
last-named  sort,  which  is  very 
extensively  grown,  will,  on  well- 
prepared  soil,  attain  full  size  in 
much  the  shortest  time.  In  1866 
we  sowed  a  held  of  this  kind  be- 
tween the  10th  and  15th  of  Sep- 
tember, and  in  ninety  days  we 
gathered  a  fine  crop  of  Turnips. 

In  growing  Turnips  for  mar- 
ket or  for  feeding-purposes,  the 
Ruta  Baga  is  most  highly  valued. 
This  variety  is  always  grown  in 
rows ;  in  field-culture  they  should 


TURNIPS.  24:7 

be  two  feet  apart,  so  as  to  admit  of  horse-tools  in 
cultivation.  We  ridge  the  ground  before  sowing  the 
seed,  in  the  same  wa}'  and  for  the  same  reasons  as 
recommended  for  Carrots.  The  seed  is  sown  with  a 
machine,  using  one  and  a  half  pounds  to  an  acre. 
If  the  seed  is  fresli  and  the  weather  favorable,  in 
twelve  days  from  the  date  of  sowing  the  plants  will 
be  up;  then  a  "root-cleaner"  should  be  run  be- 
tween the  rows  at  once,  running  twice  in  each  space. 
This  should  be  repeated  in  ten  or  twelve  days. 

The  cost  of  cultivation  is  trilling,  if  the  ground 
between  the  rows  is  disturbed  often  enough  to  pre- 
vent the  weeds  from  starting.  "  A  stitch  in  time 
sa\'es  nine  ;  "  for,  if  neglected  at  this  stage  of  growth, 
the  expenses  will  amount  to  live  times  as  much,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  the  crop  will  be  lessened. 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high, 
they  may  be  thinned  out  to  four  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  The  thinning  can  be  done  more  quickly  by 
one  person  gomg  in  advance  of  the  others,  with  a 
hoe  four  inches  wide,  and  chopping  out  the  young 
Turnips,  leaving  three  or  four  in  a  bunch  every  four 
inches  apart.  These  are  removed  by  hand,  allowing 
only  one  to  remain  in  a  place.  AVlien  timely  care  is 
taken  with  Ruta  Bagas,  this  is  the  only  hand-labor 
called  for  during  their  growth.  It  is  frequently 
recommended  to  sow  the  Ruta  Baga  in  seed-beds, 
and  then,  at  the  proper  time  in  favorable  weather, 
transplant  into  rows  at  the  distances  named.  We 
have  tried  this  method  time  and  again,  and  always 
with  the  same  result ;  that  is,  an  increased  expense 
in  growing  this  crop,  under  our  management. 


248  TUKNIPS. 

The  Yellow  Stone  and  Aberdeen  we  sow  two  and 
three  weeks  later,  treating  them  in  the  same  way  as 
Rnta  Bagas.  On  very  mellow  ground  we  sometimes 
sow  the  seed  on  the  level,  marking  the  rows  three 
inches  wider,  so  as  to  give  more  room  for  the  horse- 
tools. 

The  Cow-IIorn  and  Strap-leaf  will  yield  more  to 
the  acre  when  sown  in  rows  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  farmers 
sow  these  two  kinds  broadcast,  because  there  is  no 
"  bother  "  in  cultivation.  Last  year  a  friend  of  the 
w^riter  raised  eight  hundred  bushels  of  the  Cow-IIorn 
on  an  acre.  The  seed  was  sown  broadcast  duriui]: 
the  first  week  in  August,  using  only  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  seed.  When  sown  broadcast  and  scat- 
tered evenly,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  seed 
will  be  found  a  full  complement  for  an  acre. 

In  garden-culture.  Turnip-seed  should  always  be 
sown  in  row^s  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  the 
plants  thinned  to  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  For  table  use,  a  medium-sized  Turnip  is  pre- 
ferable. 

Two  ounces  of  seed,  comprising  two  or  three 
sorts,  will  give  enough  for  family  use  during  the 
Fall,  Winter,  and  Spring. 

Harvesting. — In  the  latitude  of  New  York,  Tur- 
nips are  pulled  in  Xovember,  by  hand,  throwing 
three  or  four  rows  together,  the  roots  all  one  way. 
The  tops  are  then  cut  off  and  the  Turnips  placed  in 
a  root-cellar,  or  pitted,  in  the  same  way  as  Carrots 
and  Beets.  If  grown  for  stock-feeding,  the  white 
kinds  should  be  used  first.  The  yellow  sorts  and 
Ruta  Bagas  can  be  kept,  if  necessary,  until  Spring. 


TURNIPS. 


249 


All  through 


Profits. — These  will  depend  on  the  locality  and 
the  purposes  for  which  Turnips  are  grown.  Where 
we  are  located,  Ruta  Bagas  and  Yellow  Stones  are 
worth,  by  the  quantity,  fi'oni  forty  to  sixty  cents  a 
bushel,  and  sell  readily  at  these  prices, 
the  past  Winter,  Yellow 
Stones  sold  for  one  dollar 
and  seventy-five  cents  per 
barrel,  and  Ruta  Bagas  for 
two  dollars.  At  these  rates 
Turnips  pay  handsomely, 
when  grown  as  a  second 
crop,  with  a  yield  of  from 
four  to  six  hundred  bush- 
els to  the  acre. 

Varieties.  —  Of  these 
there  can  be  found  a  long 
list  on  seedsmen's  cata- 
logues, but,  like  most  other 
kinds  of  vegetables,  only 
a  few  kinds  are  grown  by 
those  who  have  experience. 
Among  the  best  is  the 

American  Improved 
Ruta  Baga. — This  variety 
is  cultivated  both  for  mar- 
ket and  stock,  and  is  the 
best  on  the  list. 

The  flesh  is  solid,  tender,  and  of  delicate  flavor 
when  cooked. 

Laing's  Improved  is  a  more  vigorous  grower  than 
the  foregoing,  and,  if  on  strong  ground,  the  roots 


AMERICAN   IMPROVED 
RUTA   BAGA. 


250 


TtJRNlPS. 


Tliey  are  purple 
The  flesh  is  solid 


will  average  a  third  larger  in  size, 
above  ground,  and  yellow  below, 
and  yellow. 

Yellow  Stone  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  and 
popular  varieties  that  we  grow  for  market  or  for 
table  use.  The  root  is  nearly  round,  medium-sized, 
color  light  yellow.     The  flesh  is  yellow  and  sweet. 

Y  E  L  L  o  AV  Aberdeen 
grows  to  a  large  size.  It 
is  generally  grown  for  feed- 
ing cattle  ;  for  this  object 
it  is  a  valuable  variety. 

Cow- Horn. — This  kind 
grows  rapidly,  forming  a 
lono^  root,  not  unlike  the 
White  Carrot.  The  Cow- 
Horn  is  cultivated  exclu- 
sively for  feeding  stock, 
and  when  sown  in  good 
ground,  the  yield  is  very 
laro-e  —  from  eio:ht  hun- 
dred  to  one  thousand  bush- 
els are  frequently  produced 
from  an  acre. 

Strap-leaf  Hed-Top  is 
well  and  fa\'orably  known  in  almost  exery  part  of  the 
country.  It  is  purple  above  and  white  below.  The 
flesh  is  white,  and  very  tender  when  cooked  (p.  252). 
Flat  Dutch,  or  Spring. — The  Flat  Dutch  is 
sown  in  the  Spring,  as  an  early  variety  for  table  use. 
It  is  grown  on  a  large  scale,  by  gardeners,  in  the 
vicinity  of  a  market. 


YELLOW   STONE, 


TURNnS. 


251 


It  is  a  white  Turnip,  and  when  of  medium  size 
the  quality  is  good. 

Turnips  are  subject  to  the  ravages  of  the  same 
kinds  of  insects  that  injure  Cabbages.  We  have 
known  instances  where  the 
wliole  crop  was  badly  injured 
by  club-root.  The  black  flea 
{Haltica  striolat(()  destroys  the 
young  plants  when  they  ap- 
pear above  the  surface. 

The  same  remedies  recom- 
mended for  Cabbages  will  an- 
swer for  Turnips. 

HERBS. 

The  vegetable  garden  is  not 
complete  without  its  stock  of 
the  sweet  herbs.  The  treat- 
ment of  all  that  are  commonly 
grown  is  so  nearly  the  same, 
it  is  hardly  necessary  to  give 
separate  directions  for  the  va- 
rious k'nds. 

A  seed -bed  should  l)e  pre- 
pared early  in  the  Spring — 
made  rich,  loose,  and  mellow, 
raking  the  surface  and  remov- 
ing  all  stones,  lumps,  etc.,  tfcc.  cow-horn. 

Then  open   shallow  rows   one 

foot  apart  for  the  seed.     A  small  package  of  each 
kind,  costing  ten  cents,  will  give  an  abundance  for 


252 


HEEBS. 


family  use.  The  seed  is  sown  in  these  drills,  each 
kind  by  itself,  and  covered  by  raking  the  bed  in 
the  direction  of  the  rows.  The  seed-bed  should  be 
kept  free  from  weeds  by  frequent  disturbance  of 
the  soil.  When  the  plants  are  an  inch  above  the 
surface,  they  may  be  thinned  out  to  four  inches 
apart  in  the  row. 


STRAP-LEAP  RED-TOP. 


A  larger  yield  will  be  obtained  by  transplanting 
into  another  bed  in  June,  setting  the  plants  one  foot 
apart  each  way.  The  only  care  will  be  to  prevent, 
the  weeds  from  gaining  any  lieadway. 

In  the  Fall,  the  tops  should  be  cut  off,  tied  in 


HERBS.  253 

small   bunches,   dried,  and   then   carefully   packed 
away  in  boxes  until  wanted. 

Among  those  in  general  use,  may  be  named  Ba- 
sil, Caraway,  Marjoram,  Eose  Mary,  Sage,  Summer 
Savory,  and  Thyme. 


12 


CHAPTEE  XIY. 

FORCING-HOUSES    FOK    VPXtETABLES. 

The  culture  of  special  crops,  on  an  extensive  scale, 
is  now  the  policy  of  the  most  successful  gardeners 
around  New  York,  and  the  tendency  of  the  entire 
trade  is  gradually  working  in  the  same  direction. 

For  many  years  past  there  has  been,  in  Xew 
York  and  Boston,  a  large  and  growing  demand,  dur- 
ing the  Winter  and  Spring  months,  for  what  garden- 
ers call,  Frame  Lettuce.  As  managed  at  present, 
with  bottom-lieat,  growing  this  kind  of  Lettuce  is  a 
large,  and,  wlien  pro])erly  understood,  a  lucrative 
branch  of  garden hig. 

Until  recently,  this  Winter  Lettuce  was  brought 
forward  in  hot-beds,  started  in  the  Fall.  If  found 
necessary,  tlie  manure  was  renewed  during  the  Win- 
ter, after  the  iirst  or  second  crop  had  been  sold,  so 
that  three  crops  of  Lettuce  and  one  of  Cucumbers 
wei*e,  with  close  attention,  taken  off  from  these  heds 
between  the  first  of  November  and  the  fifteenth  of 
June. 

Within  the  last  three  years  a  number  of  forcing- 
houses,  heated  by  hot  water,  have  been  built  in  the 
vicinity  of  New  York,  by  gardeners,  for  the  purpose 
of  growing  vegetables  (Lettuce,  Radishes,  and  Cu- 
cumbers), during  the  Winter.     Some  of  these  houses 


FOECING-HOUSES   FOR   VEGETABLES. 


255 


in  onr  iieig'hborli; >;»("!,  liavo  now  been 
in  operation  two  yeiirs.  We  have 
watched  their  workings  with  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  interest,  and  we 
have  conchided  that  this  style  of 
structure,  for  the  purpose  named,  is 
more  economical,  and  for  those  who 
can  command  the  means  requisite 
for  building,  it  will  eventually  su- 
persede the  old  hot-bed  system.  With 
one  of  these  houses,  a  private  family 


RIDGE-POLE. 

t 

could  have  the  table  well  supplied,    \ 
at  a  conn)aratively  trifling  cost,  with    ; 
fresh   vegetables  through   the  wliole    ; 
AVinter ;    besides    such    a    l)uilding 
could,  at  any  time,  be  turned  into  a 
green-house  or  conservatory. 

With  the  commercial  gardener, 
this  is  a  new  l)ranch  of  the  luisiness, 
and  many  mistakes  will  prol)ably  be 
made  at  the  outset,  both  in  construc- 
tion an  1  in  nuxnagement,  while  the 
crops  are  growing,  by  allowing  the 
temperature  o  be  regulated  by  inex- 
perienced persons.  When  f(U-cing  Lettuce  or  Radishes, 
the  temperature,  during  the  cold  weather,  should  be 
tlirough  the  night  about  forty-five  degj^ees,  and  dur 


256  FORCING-HOUSES    FOR   VEGETABLES. 

iiig  the  clay  not  above  seventy  degrees — ranging  be- 
tween these  two  figures. 

These  houses  may  be  built  any  desired  length 
from  one  to  three  hundred  feet  and  from  two  to  eig-ht 
in  width,  or  connected,  as  shown  in  the  end  view,  p.  255. 

Each  liouse  is  eleven  feet  wide,  with  a  table  on 
either  side  and  a  passage-way  twenty  inches  wide,  the 
floor  of  which  should  be  six  and  a  half  feet  clear 
from  the  ridge-pole. 

These  buildiHgs  are  heated  by  hot  water,  a  double 
row  of  four-inch  pipes,  under  each  table,  supported 
every  ten  or  twelve  feet  by  brick  pillars,  eighteen 
inches  high,  which  will  bring  the  pipes  within  fifteen 
inches  of  the  tables. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  these  patent  heating 
apparatuses,  now  in  general  use,  near  New  York. 
As  far  as  we  have  been  able  to  examine  them,  there 
is  very  little  difference,  either  in  the  expense  or  in 
the  working  of  some  of  these  A-arious  patents.  Of 
those  most  popular  among  gardeners,  are  Ilichings 
&  Go's.,  C.  R.  Ellis's,  and  Weathered  and  Chesevoy's 
any  one  of  which  will  answer  the  purpose. 

The  outside  walls  should  be  put  up  as  follows :  a 
post  is  set  every  four  feet  and  weather-boarded,  then 
a  space  on  the  inside  of  two  inches,  and  an  eight- 
inch  brick  wall,  on  which  rests  the  outside  gutter 
plate. 

The  ridge-pole  is  five  inches  b}'  two  and  a  half, 
cu>t  in  on  either  side  three-quarters  of  an  inch  (as 
seen  on  p.  255),  to  give  a  bearing  for  the  upper  end  of 
the  sash  to  rest  on.  The  gutter  plates  are  twelve 
inches  wide,  four  inches  thick,  and  supported  by  j^osts 


FORCING- HOUSES    FOR    VEGETABLES.  257 

every  ten  or  twelve  feet.  A  narrow  board  is  nailed 
inside,  on  each  side  of  the  i)late,  for  the  lower  end 
of  the  sash  to  rest  on.  Tlie  sashes  are  3  x  (>  and 
made  of  glass  S  x  10,  on  ac-connt  of  giving  more  liglit. 
Every  alternate  sash  is  permanently  fastened  by  three 
large  screws  on  eitlier  end.  The  others  can  be  raised 
np  on  top  to  admit  air,  when  necessary.  This  is  con- 
veniently done  ])y  having  a  piece  of  flat  iron  fastened 
to  the  sash,  and  three  or  four  holes  in  the  iron.  The 
sash  is  raised  to  the  height  rerpiired,  by  this  piece  of 
iron  and  secured  l)y  a  pin  driven  in  the  ridge-pole, 
which  holds  the  iron  in  place. 

On  the  inside  of  the  lower  end  of  the  frame  of 
each  of  the  movable  sashes,  is  screwed  a  piece  of  inch 
stuff,  three  and  a  half  feet  long.  Two  inches  of  this 
narrow  strip  of  wood,  on  either  side,  will  project 
under  the  permanent  sashes  and  thus  prevent  the 
movable  ones  from  beino^  lifted  off  bv  a  o^ale  of  wind. 
All  through  the  Winter,  and  more  especially  towards 
Spring,  a  considerable  amount  of  water  is  needed  to 
keep  the  plants  in  good  condition.  This  water  is 
saved  from  the  gutters  of  the  houses,  led  by  pipes 
into  a  cistern,  which  runs  across  the  houses.  A  neigh- 
bor who  has  three  houses,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  long,  each,  has  a  cistern,  twenty-seven  feet  long, 
eight  feet  deep  and  seven  feet  wide,  which  holds  a 
sufficient  sup])ly  of  water.  Another  grower,  who 
has  five  connected  houses,  each  two  hundred  feet 
long,  has  a  different  arrangement.  At  about  one 
hundred  feet  from  either  end  of  these  houses,  the 
pitch  of  the  roof  is  changed,  running  across  from 
east   to  west,  the  main  houses  run  from  north  to 


258 


FOKCING-HOUSES   FOR   VEGETABLES. 


south.  This  is  intended  for  economy  in  time,  in 
being  able  to  go  from  one  house  to  another,  without 
havino:  to  o-o  to  either  end.  At  the  west  end  of  this 
cross-pitcli  is  a  one-quarter  horse-power  Ericsson's 
caloric  engine,  attached  to  a  small  pump,  throwing 
an  inch  stream.  Above  this  apparatus  tliere  is  a  tank, 
made  of  two -inch  chestnut  and  lined  witli  lead. 
Around  this  tank,  which  holds  four  hundred  gallons, 
there  is  a  brick  wall,  leaving  a  space  of  three  or  four 
inches  between  the  outside  of  the  tank  and  the 
bricks. 

In   less   tlian   two  hours,  and  with  an  expense 

of  about  eight  or  ten 
pounds  of  coal,  this 
little  engine  fills  the 
tank  with  water. 

The  hose,  one  and 
a  quarter  inches,  for 
watering,  is  attached 
to  the  tank,  and  by 
this  means  one  man 
or  boy  can  water  the 
beds,  instead  of  two,  which  the  hand  force-pump  re- 
quires. The  total  cost  of  this  engine  and  pump  is 
two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars — it  more  than  pays  for 
itself  in  a  year.  The  caloric  engine  needs  no  en- 
gineer to  attend  to  it ;  there  is  no  danger  of  an  ex- 
plosion, and  it  does  the  Avork  of  pumping  this  daily 
amount  of  water  at  very  low  cost. 

At  the  southern  end  of  these  houses,  every  inch 
of  space  is  utilized,  and  economically  laid  out,  by 
continuing  the  glass  roof  around  the  end,  lea\dng  a 


ERICSSON  S   CALORIC   ENGINE   AND 
PUMP. 


FORCING-HOUSES    FOR    VEGETABLES.  259 

passage-way  inside  connecting  all  the  five  houses, 
with  a  forcing-table  on  either  side  of  this  passage. 

A  shed  made  of  wood  or  l)rick  is  necessary  at  the 
north  end  of  the  houses.  This  will  serve  a  double 
purpose — as  a  market-house  for  preimring  the  "  stuff," 
and  it  will  prevent  the  snow  from  drifting  into  the 
alleys.  A  board  fence  running  along  the  Avest  side, 
will  also  be  found  of  service  for  this  purpose. 

The  tables  should  be  three  or  four  inches  below 
the  lower  edge  of  the  gvtter  plates,  to  prevent  rot- 
ting of  the  timbers.  All  the  boards  of  the  tables 
shoTild  1)6  painted  with  tar.  before  putting  them  in 
place.  There  is  nothing  gained  l)y  boarding  up  the 
sides,  along  the  passage-way — a  single  board  five  or 
six  inches  wide,  nailed  along  the  outside  edge  to  keep 
the  earth  in  its  place,  will  be  quite  sufticient. 

A  rich  soil,  about  six  or  seven  inches  deep,  made 
up  of  one-third  well -rotted  manure  and  two-thirds 
garden  soil  is  put  on  the  tables.  The  first  crop  of 
Lettuce,  thirty-five  plants  to  a  sash  is  planted  about 
the  20th  of  October.  Yery  little  heat  is  required 
before  December.  This  crop  is  ready  for  market 
about  Christmas.  The  soil  is  then  worked  over  and 
j^lanted  again.  Tliis  crop  will  be  ready  in  about  nine 
weeks  more — then  a  third  planting  is  set  out,  to  be 
followed  by  cucund)ers. 

At  first,  gardeners  depended  on  plants  grown  in 
the  Fall,  for  the  several  crops,  but  during  last  Winter, 
a  few,  Avho  fell  short  of  old  plants,  so^^'ed  seed  in  the 
houses  at  the  time  of  planting  the  Lettuce. 

These  plants  were  large  enough  for  the  next 
crop,  and  did  much  better  than  the  older  ones. 


260  FORCING-HOUSES    FOK   YEGETABLE8. 

It  will  take  about  four  tons  of  coal  to  heat  one 
hundred  feet  of  house,  and  one  boiler  will  heat  three 
hundred  feet  with  twelve  tons. 

The  total  expense  of  building  this  kind  of  house 
will  average  from  ten  dollars  to  thirteen  dollars  a 
foot,  according  to  circumstances.  This  includes  not 
only  the  liouses,  but  all  the  forcing-pumps,  &g.,  &c. 

The  gross  receipts  from  the  four  crops,  will 
amount  to  about  five  dollars  a  sash ;  from  which  two 
dollars  may  be  deducted  for  expenses,  leaving  a  prof- 
it of  three  dollars  a  sash.  We  have  known  fre- 
quently of  profits  being  double  this  amount,  but 
some  instance  shave  also  come  under  our  notice 
where  they  were  not  as  large. 

A  crop  of  Radishes  will  pay  about  the  same  as 
Lettuce,  per  sash — the  only  advantage  is,  that  Rad- 
ishes will  be  ready  for  market  in  six  or  seven  weeks, 
while  Lettuce  will  take  nine. 

James  Muir  &  Sons,  who  have  seven  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  of  this  class  of  forcing-houses,  which  cost 
them  for  construction  ten  dollars  a  lineal  foot,  now, 
after  two  years'  experience,  make  the  following  ex- 
hibit of  one  year's  crops  : 

Gross  receipts  from  four  crops $2,562  41 

Interest  on  $7,800,  at  10  per  cent $780  00 

Coal 200  00 

Labor 300  00 

Manure 50  00 

1,330  00 

Net  profits $1,232  41 

Let  no  one  flatter  himself  that  this  business  is  all 
'  sunshine."     There  are  serious  obstacles  constantly 


FORCING-HOUSES    FOR   VEGETABLES.  261 

presenting  themselves,  very  discouraging  to  those 
who  ha\e  ah-eady  built  this  kind  of  house  for  forcing 
vegetables.  Tlie  greatest  drawback  is  the  damping 
off  of  the  plants  in  some  parts  of  the  l)eds.  This  oc- 
curs at  any  stage  of  the  growth,  and  without  any  ap- 
parent cause.  Sometimes  when  the  Lettuce  is  half 
or  two-thirds  grown,  in  certain  spots,  the  plants  look 
wilted,  the  leaves  droop,  and  they  might  just  as  well 
be  pulled  out  at  once  and  thrown  away,  for  they  only 
get  worse  the  longer  they  remain.  A  friend,  who  is 
largely  engaged  in  this  business,  told  me  a  short  tiiK^ 
ago,  that  in  one  of  his  houses  at  least  a  third  of  the 
crop  was  worthless  from  this  cause,  while  in  the  other 
two  houses  along  side,  planted  and  cared  for  in  tlie 
same  way,  there  was  not  an  injured  specimen  to  be 
found.  In  some  cases  the  roots  are  rotted  off,  in 
others  the  outside  coating  of  the  root  seems  loose  and 
comes  off  very  readily,  no  insect  marks  of  any  kind 
being  discernible  in  either  instance.  Again,  the 
roots  may  be  sound,  but  the  leaves  lose  vigor  and 
droop  when  the  sun  shines.  I  am  in(dined  to  think 
that  this  condition  or  disease  is  brought  about  by 
keeping  the  temperature  of  the  houses  above  fifty 
decrees  with  fire-lieat. 

The  aphides,  or  "  green  fly,"  are  very  troublesome ; 
if  neglected  they  will  soon  get  the  better  of  the  gar- 
dener and  destroy  his  crop  of  Lettuce  in  part  or  en- 
tirely. They  are  very  destructive,  and  multiply  at  an 
enormous  rate.  To  guard  against  these  little  pests  the 
houses  must  be  fumigated  with  Tobacco  stems  twice  a 
week.  For  this  purpose  a  number  of  sheet-iron  fur- 
naces, about  fifteen  iiu'heshigh  and  eight  in  diameter, 


262  FORcmG-HOTJSES  Fl»k  vegetables. 

with  a  grate  placed  near  the  bottom,  and  an  opening 
below  to  give  draft,  are  very  serviceable.  Some 
shavings  and  Tobacco  stems  are  put  into  the  fur- 
naces, which  are  placed  in  different  parts  of  the 
houses,  then  lighted,  and  the  work  is  very  soon  ac- 
complished. To  prevent  the  Tobacco  from  burning 
too  fast  a  cover  is  placed  (m  each  furnace  ;  this  checks 
the  draft  and  increases  the  quantity  of  smoke. 

As  stated  in  the  chapter  on  IIot-Beds,  the  curled 
varieties  of  Lettuce  will  not  answer  for  forcing.  The 
most  reliable  kinds  for  this  purpose  are  the  Tennis 
Ball  and  Boston  Head,  or  Wliite-seeded  Butter 
Lettuce. 

In  planting  three  or  four  houses  with  Lettuce  it 
is  advisable  not  to  plant  the  whole  at  the  same  time ; 
it  will  be  better  to  have  some  difference  in  the  date 
of  ripening. 

The  space  under  the  tables  can  be  used  in  grow- 
ing Rhubarb,  for  which  there  is  a  demand,  early  in 
the  season,  at  high  prices.  Chives  can  also  be  forced 
in  the  same  way,  or,  better  still,  they  can  be  jnit  into 
thumb-pots  and  set  on  the  ground  under  the  tables. 

Asparagus  can  be  forced  in  these  houses,  with 
more  economy  than  in  hot-beds,  from  roots  fixe  or  six 
years  old.  Also,  Strawberries  Avill  do  well,  if  plant- 
ed on  the  tables,  at  any  time  during  the  Winter, 
eight  inches  apart  each  way.  In  conclusion,  any 
kind  of  "  stuff "  that  can  be  grown  in  a  hot-bed  or 
green-house,  can  also  be  grown  in  these  forcing 
houses. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A  LIST  OF  VEGETABLE  SEEDS  FOR  THE  KITCHEN-GARDKK 

For  those  persons  who  are  not  familiar  with  the 
best  kinds  and  quantity  of  garden  Seed  necessary  to 
supply  a  family  of  eight  or  ten  persons,  I  append  the 
f (flowing  list,  which  may  help  beginners,  or  those 
who  may  want  to  stock  their  gardens  with  an  abund- 
ant supply  of  the  leading  kinds  of  vegetables  for 
home  use.  With  Radishes,  Peas,  and  Bush  Beans, 
there  should  be  a  succession  of  plantings,  say  every 
two  or  three  weeks,  from  April  until  the  middle  of 
July.  This  w411  give  a  supply  of  young  Radishes, 
Peas,  and  Bea^is  until  late  in  the  Fall. 

DWARF    BEANS. 

Early  Valentine,  Refugee  or  One  Thousand  to 
One,  and  White  Kidney ;  two  quarts  of  the  three 
sorts. 

POLE    BEANS. 

Large  White  Lima,  and  Horticultural  Cranberry  ; 
Dne  pint  each,  Avill  plant  one  hundred  and  fifty  hills. 

BEETS. 

Early  Blood  Turnip,  Bassano,  and  Long  Smooth 
Blood  ;  two  ounces  of  each, 


264  A   LIST   OF    SEEDS. 


CABBAGE. 


Jersey  Wakefield  for  early,  Large  Flat  Dutch  and 
Drumhead  Savoy  for  late.  A  small  package  of  each 
kind,  or  one  hundred  plants  of  each  sort,  will  be  an 
abundance. 


SWEET   CORN. 


Two  quarts  of  a  couple  or  three  varieties,  planted 
at  different  dates,  will  be  enough. 


CUCUMBER. 


White  Spine  and  Long  Green  ;  one  ounce  of  each 
will  be  enough  for  early  and  late. 


CARROT. 


Long  Orange,  or  Bliss'  Improved  Long  Orange, 
are  the  best  varieties  for  the  garden  ;  two  ounces  of 


either  will  be  enough. 


CAULIFI.OAVER. 

Half  Early  Paris,  and  Early  Erfurt,  are  the  most 
reliable  ;  half  an  ounce  of  either  Avill  give  plenty  of 
plant*. 

CELERY. 

White  Solid,  Dwarf  Incomparable,  or  Boston 
Market ;  one  ounce  will  give  three  thousand  plants. 

EGG    PLANT. 

The  Improved  New  York  is  the  best.  A  small 
paper  of  seed  will  give  enough  of  plants.     When 


A    LIST   OF   SEEDS.  265 

they  grow  well,  tlie^^  will  produce  from  six  to  ten 
eggs  to  a  plant — twenty-live  plants. 

LETTUCE. 

Simpson's  Curled  and  Black  Seeded  Butter ;  a 
small  23aper  of  each. 

MUSK   MELON. 

Skillman's  Fine  Ketted,  and  Nutmeg  ;  one  ounce 
will  plant  fifty  hills. 

WATER   MELON. 

Mountain  Sweet  and  Mountain  Sprout  (and  Cit- 
ron for  preserves) ;  one  ounce  will  plant  thirty  hills. 

ONIONS. 

Wethersfield  Large  Red,  Yellow  Dan  vers,  and 
White  Portugal ;  four  ounces  of  seed  will  produce 
enough  for  table  use. 

PARSNIPS. 

Long  Smooth  ;  one  ounce  of  fresh  seed. 

PEAS. 

Philadelpliia  Extra  Early,  Tom  Thumb,  Cham- 
pion of  England,  White  and  Black  Marrowfats  ;  one 
pint  of  each,  sowed  in  the  order  named. 

PEPPERS. 

Large  Squash  and  Bull-Nose  ;  a  small  paper  of 
seed  will  give  plants  enough — twenty-five  plants. 


666  A  LIST  OF   SEEDS. 


RADISH. 


Early  Turnip  Scarlet,  Short-Top  Long  Scarlet, 
White  Spanish,  Black  Spanish ;  one  ounce  of  each. 
Sowed  in  the  order  named. 


SPINACH. 


Hound  Smooth-leaved  ;  fou^r  ounces  sowed  in  Sep- 
tember and  two  in  April. 


SALSIEY. 

This  vegetable  should  be  included  in  every  welb 
stocked  garden  ;  two  ounces  will  be  enough. 

SQUASH. 

White  Bush,  White  Summer  Crook  Neck,  Boston 
Marrow,  and  Hubbard ;  one  ounce  of  the  early 
varieties  will  plant  forty  hills,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  seed  will  plant  only  twenty  hills  of  the  Boston 
Marrow  or  Hubbard. 

TOMATO. 

Smooth  Eound  Eed  and  Trophy,  a  small  paper 
of  each,  or  fifty  plants,  will  give  an  abundant 
supply. 

TURNIPS. 

White  Dutch,  (for  early).  Strap-leaf  Eed-Top, 
Yellow  Stone,  and  Improved  American  Ruta  Baga  .* 
one  ounce  of  each. 


A   LIST    OF    SHEDS. 


267 


THE    QUANTITY    OF    SEED    TO    AN    ACRE. 


Beans  (bush, 
"      Pole,   . 

Beets, 

Carrots, 

Cucumbers, 

Corn  (in  hills). 

Musk  Melon, 

Water     " 

Onions, 

Pai'snips, 

Peas  (in  drills),     . 

Eadishes, 

Salsify, 

Spinach, 

Squash, 

Turnips  in  drills,     . 
"        broadcast. 
The  quantities  gi 


H  bush. 
12  qts. 
5  lbs. 
4   " 
2   " 
8  qts. 

2  lbs. 

3  to  4  lbs. 
^Jo5  " 

4  " 
1^  bush, 

5  lbs. 

5  " 

6  " 
3    " 


1     " 
en  are  often  varied.     In  case 
we  have  any  doubts  about  the  seed  being  fresh,  the 
quantity  is  increased,  &c.  &c. 

VITALITY    OF    GARDEN    SEED. 

The  vitality  of  many  kinds  of  garden  seeds  will 
depend  on  the  temperature  in  which  they  are  kept. 
As  fast  as  the  different  kinds  of  such  are  gatliered, 
properly  dried  and  cleaned  in  the  Summer  and  Fall, 
they  should  be  put  in  cotton  bags,  and  tied  up  to  tlie 
rafters  in  the  seed-room  or  garret,  wliere  tlie  dry  air 
can  circulate  about  them  freely.  When  stored  in  a 
damp,  close  atmosphere,  garden  seeds  will  very  soon 
lose  their  germinating  power. 


268 


DISTANCE   TABLE. 


As  a  rule  fi-esh  seed  are  best,  but  there  are  a 
number  of  kinds  that  are  just  as  good  at  three  or 
four  years  old  as  they  were  at  one. 

Asparagus  aud  Beets  are  good  at  two  years. 
Carrot,  Egg  Plant,  Parsnip,  Salsify,  Ouion,  Peas  and 
Beans,  should  always  be  of  the  previous  year's 
growth.  Cabbage-seed,  is  good  for  five  years. 
Celery,  Parsley,  Spinach,  Turnip,  Padishes,  Cauli- 
flower and  Lettuce,  are  good  for  two  years.  Cu- 
cumbers, Melons,  Squash,  and  Pumpkins,  are  better 
at  six  years  than  one. 

DISTANCE    TABLE. 

The  following  table  will  be  found  useful  in  cal- 
culating the  number  of  plants  that  can  be  set  on  an 
acre,  also  for  the  distribution  of  manure,  laying  out 
beds,  &c.  &c. 

There  are  forty -three  thousand  five  hundred  aud 
sixty  square  feet  in  an  acre  of  ground,  and  when  set 
at  the  respective  distance  apart,  will  coiitain  th^ 
numbers  desimiated. 


Distance. 
1    ft.  by  1    ft. 


H 
2 

2^ 

3 

3 

3 

4 

5 


Number. 

43,560 

n     19,360 

2       10,890 

21     6,970 

1       14,520 

2       7,260 

3       4,840 

4       2,722 

5       1,742 


Distance. 


Number. 


6  ft.  by  6  ft 1,210 


9 
12 
15 
18 
20 
25 
30 
40 


12 
15 
18 
20 
25 
80 
40 


537 
302 
194 
134 
103 
70 


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o^' 


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Ginseng,  Its  Cultivation,   Harvesting,  Market- 
ing and  Market  Value 

By  Maurice  G.  Kains,  with  a  short  account  of  its  history 
and  botany.  It  discusses  in  a  practical  way  how  to  begin  with 
either  seed  or  roots,  soil,  climate  and  location,  preparation, 
planting  and  maintenance  of  the  beds,  artificial  propagation, 
manures,  enemies,  selection  for  market  and  for  improvement, 
preparation  for  sale,  and  the  profits  that  may  be  expected. 
This  booklet  is  concisely  written,  well  and  profusely  illus- 
trated, and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  expect  to  grow 
this  drug  to  supply  the  export  trade,  and  to  add  a  new  and 
profitable  industry  to  their  farms  and  gardens,  without  inter- 
fering with  the  regular  work.  New  edition.  Revised  and  en- 
larged.    Illustrated.     5x7  inches.     Cloth.       .       .       .      $0.50 

Landscape  Gardening 

By  F.  A.  Waugh,  professor  of  horticulture,  university  of 
Vermont.  A  treatise  on  the  general  principles  governing 
outdoor  art;  with  sundry  suggestions  for  their  application 
in  the  commoner  problems  of  gadening.  Every  paragraph  is 
short,  terse  and  to  the  point,  giving  perfect  clearness  to  the 
discussions  at  all  points.  In  spite  of  the  natural  difficulty 
of  presenting  abstract  principles  the  whole  matter  is  made 
^entirely  plain  even  to  the  inexperienced  reader.  Illustrated. 
(152  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth $0.50 

Hedges,  Windbreaks,  Shelters  and  Live  Fences 

By  E.  P.  Powell.  A  treatise  on  the  planting,  growth 
and  management  of  hedge  plants  for  country  and  suburban 
homes.  It  gives  accurate  directions  concerning  hedges ;  how 
to  plant  and  how  to  treat  them ;  and  especially  concerning 
windbreaks  and  shelters.  It  includes  the  whole  art  of  making 
a  delightful  home,  giving  directions  for  nooks  and  balconies, 
for  bird  culture  and  for  human  comfort.  Illustrated.  140 
pages.    5x7  inches.     Cloth.       ,.###.      $0,50 


Greenhouse  Construction 

By  Prof.  L.  R.  Taft.  A  complete  treatise  on  greenhouse 
structures  and  arrangements  of  the  various  forms  and  styles 
of  plant  houses  for  professional  florists  as  well  as  amateurs. 
All  the  best  and  most  approved  structures  are  so  fully  and 
clearly  described  that  any  one  who  desires  to  build  a  green- 
house will  have  no  difficulty  in  determining  the  kind  best 
suited  to  his  purpose.  The  modern  and  most  successful  meth- 
ods of  heating  and  ventilating  are  fully  treated  upon.  Special 
chapters  are  devoted  to  houses  used  for  the  growing  of  one 
kind  of  plants  exclusively.  The  construction  of  hotbeds  and 
frames  receives  appropriate  attention.  Over  lOO  excellent 
illustrations,  especially  engraved  for  this  work,  make  every 
point  clear  to  the  reader  and  add  considerably  to  the  artistic 
appearance  of  the  book.    210  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.  $1,50 


Greenhouse  Management 

By  L.  R.  Taft.  This  book  forms  an  almost  indispensable 
companion  volume  to  Greenhouse  Construction.  In  it  the 
author  gives  the  results  of  his  many  years'  experience,  together 
with  that  of  the  most  successful  florists  and  gardeners,  in  the 
management  of  growing  plants  under  glass.  So  minute  and 
practical  are  the  various  systems  and  methods  of  growing 
and  forcing  roses,  violets,  carnations,  and  all  the  most  impor- 
tant florists'  plants,  as  well  as  fruits  and  vegetables  described, 
that  by  a  careful  study  of  this  work  and  the  following  of  its 
teachings,  failure  is  almost  impossible.  Illustrated.  382  pages. 
5x7  inches.    Cloth $1.50 

Fungi  and  Fungicides 

By  Prof.  Clarence  M.  Weed.  A.  practical  manual  con- 
cerning the  fungous  diseases  of  cultivated  plants  and  the 
means  of  preventing  their  ravages.  The  author  has  endeav- 
ored to  give  such  a  concise  account  of  the  rr^ost  important 
facts  relating  to  these  as  will  enable  the  cultivator  to  combat 
them  intelligently.  90  illustrations.  222  f&gc^i.  Sx/  inches. 
Paper,    50    cents;    cloth $1.00 


Mushrooms.     How  to  Grow  Them 

By  William  Falconer.  This  is  the  mos',  p  Actical  work 
on  the  subject  ever  written,  and  the  only  1v>k  on  growing 
mushrooms  published  in  America.  The  autl",'/  ciescribes  how 
he  grows  mushrooms,  and  how  tbey  are  gi'./;  n  for  profit  by 
the  leading  market  gardeners,  and  for  homo  ,Jse  by  the  most 
successful  private  growers.  Engravings  drawn  from  nature 
expressly  for  this  work,  170  pages.   5x7  inches.  Cloth,    $i.oa 


Cabbage,  Cauliflower  and  Allied  Vegetables 

By  C.  L.  Allen.  A  practical  treatise  on  the  various 
types  and  varieties  of  cabbage,  cauliflower,  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  kale,  collards  and  kohl-rabi.  An  explanation  is  given 
of  the  requirements,  conditions,  cultivation  and  general 
management  pertaining  to  the  entire  cabbage  group.  After  this 
each  class  is  treated  separately  and  in  detail.  The  chapter 
on  seed  raising  is  probably  the  most  authoritative  treatise  on 
this  subject  ever  published.  Insects  and  fungi  attacking  this 
class  of  vegetables  are  given  due  attention.  Illustrated.  126 
pages.    5x7  inches.      Cloth.      .,.,,,      $0.50 

Asparagus 

By  F.  M.  Hexamer.  This  is  the  first  book  published  in 
America  which  is  exclusively  devoted  to  the  raising  of  aspara- 
gus for  home  use  as  well  as  for  market.  It  is  a  practical 
and  reliable  treatise  on  the  saving  of  the  seed,  raising  of  the 
plants,  selection  and  preparation  of  the  soil,  planting,  cultiva- 
tion, manuring,  cutting,  bunching,  packing,  marketing,  canning 
and  drying,  insect  enemies,  fungous  diseases  and  every  require- 
ment to  successful  asparagus  culture,  special  emphasis  being 
given  to  the  importance  of  asparagus  as  a  farm  and  money 
crop.    Illustrated.    174  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      ,      $0.50 

The  New  Onion  Culture 

By  T.  Greiner.  Rewritten,  greatly  enlarged  and  brought 
up  to  date.  A  new  method  of  growing  onions  of  largest  size 
and  yield,  on  less  land,  than  can  be  raised  by  the  old  plan. 
Thousands  of  farmers  and  gardeners  and  many  experiment 
stations  have  given  it  practical  trials  which  have  proved  a 
success.  A  complete  guide  in  growing  onions  with  the  great- 
est profit,  explaining  the  whys  and  wherefores.  Illustrated. 
5x7  inches.     140  pages.     Cloth.       ,      „       ,       ,       ,      $0.50 

The  New  Rhubarb  Culture 

A  complete  guide  to  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part 
I — By  J.  E.  Morse,  the  well-known  Michigan  trucker  and 
originator  of  the  now  famous  and  extremely  profitable  new 
methods  of  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part  II — Compiled 
by  G.  B.  Fiske.  Other  methods  practiced  by  the  most  experi- 
enced market  gardeners,  greenhouse  men  and  experimenters  in 
all  parts  of  America.     Illustrated.     130  pages.     5x7  inches. 

V'iOtn.  ici         i»j         icj         [sj         A]         iaJ         isl         LCI         i«J         :•.         It.         <p0.50 


The  New  Egg   Farm 

By  H.  H.  Stoddard.  A  practicnl,  reliable  manual  on 
producing  eggs  and  poultry  for  market  as  a  profitable  business 
enterprise,  either  by  itself  or  connected  with  other  branches 
of  agriculture.  It  tells  all  about  how  to  feed  and  manage, 
how  to  breed  and  select,  incubators  and  brooders,  its  labor- 
saving  devices,  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated.  331  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth.  $1.00 

Poultry  Feeding  and  Fattening 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Fiske.  A  handbook  for  poultry  keep- 
ers on  the  standard  and  improved  methods  of  feeding  and 
marketing  all  kinds  of  poultry.  The  subject  of  feeding  and 
fattening  poultry  is  prepared  largely  from  the  side  of  the 
best  practice  and  experience  here  and  abroad,  although  the 
underlying  science  of  feeding  is  explained  as  fully  as  needful. 
The  subject  covers  all  branches,  including  chickens,  broilers, 
capons,  turkeys  and  waterfowl;  how  to  feed  under  various 
conditions  and  for  different  purposes.  The  whole  subject  of 
capons  and  caponizing  is  treated  in  detail.  A  great  mass  of 
practical  information  and  experience  not  readily  obtainable 
elsewhere  is  given  with  full  and  explicit  directions  for  fatten- 
ing and  preparing  for  market.  This  book  will  meet  the  needs 
of  amateurs  as  well  as  commercial  poultry  raisers.  Profusely 
illustrated.     160  pages.     5x71-2  inches.     Cloth.       .       $0.50 

Poultry  Architecture 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Ffske.  A  treatise  on  poultry  buildings 
of  all  grades,  styles  and  classes,  and  their  proper  location, 
coops,  additions  and  special  construction  ;  all  practical  in  de- 
sign, and  reasonable  in  cost.  Over  100  illustrations.  125  pages. 
5x7  inches.     Cloth $0.50 

Poultry  Appliances  and  Handicraft 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  Fiske.  Illustrated  descriptions  of  a 
great  variety  and  styles  of  the  best  homemade  nests,  roosts, 
windows,  ventilators,  incubators  and  brooders,  feeding  and 
watering  appliances,  etc.,  etc.  Over  100  illustrations.  Over 
125  pages.     5x7   inches.     Cloth $0.50 

Turkeys  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

Edited  by  Herbert  Myrick.  A  treatise  on  the  natural 
history  and  origin  of  the  name  of  turkeys;  the  various  breeds, 
the  best  methods  to  insure  success  in  the  business  of  turkey 
growing.  With  essays  from  practical  turkey  growers  in 
different  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada.  Copiously 
illustrated.    154  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth    .      ,.     l.      $i.oo 


Farmer's  Cyclopedia 
of  Agriculture    ^    /^ 

tA  Compendium  of  Agricultural  Science  and  Practice 
on  Farm,  Orchard  and  Garden  Crops,  and  the 
Feeding  and  Diseases  of  Farm  Animals      ;     ;     :     ; 

'Bt;    EARLEY  VERNON  WILCOX,  Ph.D. 
and  CLARENCE  BEAMAN  SMITH,  M.S. 

Associate  Editors  in  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations,    Untied  States 
Department  of  Agriculture 


THIS  is  a  new,  practical,  and  complete  pres- 
entation of  the  whole  subject  of  agricul- 
ture in  its  broadest  sense.  It  is  designed 
for  the  use  of  agriculturists  who  desire 
up-to-date,  reliable  information  on  all 
matters  pertaining  to  crops  and  stock,  but  more 
particularly  for  the  actual  farmer.  The  volume 
contains 

Detailed  directions  for  the  culture  of  every 

important  field,  orchard,  and  garden  crop 

grown  in  America,  togeth-er  with  descriptions  of 
their  chief  insect  pests  and  fungous  diseases,  and 
remedies  for  their  control.  It  contains  an  ac- 
count of  modern  methods  in  feeding  and  handling 
all  farm  stock,  including  poultry.  The  diseases 
which  affect  different  farm  animals  and  poultry 
are  described,  and  the  most  recent  remedies 
suggested  for  controlling  them. 

Every  bit  of  this  vast  mass  of  new  and  useful 
information  is  authoritative,  practical,  and  easily 
'  found,  and  no  effort  has  been  spared  to  include 
all  desirable  details.  There  are  between  6,000 
and  7.000  topics  covered  in  these  references,  and 
it  contains  700  royal  8vo  pages  and  nearly  500 
superb  half-tone  and  other  original  illustrations, 
making  the  most  perfect  Cyclopedia  of  Agricul- 
ture ever  attempted. 

Handsomely  bound    in    cloth,   $3.50;    half  morocco 
(Very  sumptuous).  $4.50.  postpaid 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY.^?'''"''"?-''"''  ''^^^"'■■'' "■ 


Marquette  Building.  Chicago,  III. 


